crazyoctopus

beat me to it!

the dash is 4 inches too long, and about the right depth at its greatest point. I really have no idea how hard it will be, but i figure it is nothing more than modifying a few brackets, possibly making some out of sheet metal, and some snips and cuts here and there. The biggest trouble will be finalizing my dash/gauges that I will be using. easy route is just autometer everything, the awesome route is using a motorcycle dash. Don't worry though, i'll have photos of the whole install process once i finish the wiring diagram (which should be done today), and make sure that the engine starts with the new carburetors.

I really have no idea what I am doing when it comes to weber carbs. hahahahaha. First thing I did was check all of my jetting/venturi/choke numbers to make sure they were the same, tomorrow i am goign to check the floats to make sure they are on point, then i am going to soak them in carb cleaner. whiel they are cleaning get some velocity stacks and make a heat shield out of air foil cooking tins (right ben?). once they are clean hope for the best. oh and then buy a book about setting up weber carbs so while yetterben's intake manifold is in the mail once it gets here I know what i am doing.

M triple weber dcoe 40s, and just sent out the mikuni intake manifold today (trading yetterben for his long canon mani). also took some pictures of the s13 240sx dash that will be going in the car once i finish designing wiring diagram and lay it all out on some plywood. I have yet to make this thing shine like new, but be sure that it will once it is in the car.

$500 special http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1644132976.html

Aweosme, looks like both of us are doing the s13 dash swaps; 240z on mine though. What gauges are you thinking of using? Or are you going to try to get the stock s13 cluster to work?

Any downside to running ss from the T all the way to the caliper?

just installed the T and the gauge, constant 3.75 - 4psi. within the last week i cleaned the floats and carbs. a couple days ago i pulled the carbs and floats again and cleaned them with carb cleaner and cue-tips. so i highly doubt there is blockage anywhere. I checked the float levels and cleaned the float inlet and vents again. I am going to pick up a set of spark plugs on my way back from base in a couple hours and see if that does anything, but i really don't think it will. i have mentioned "lean pop" a few times and just to make sure that I am using the correct terminology; it is when you see white gas spurt out of the carbs at high velocity, usually accompanied with the sound of a pop/backfire. when either of my carbs are anywhere below 2.5 turns from lean the carbs have done it to me, the only way that the engine seems to get to run is when they are at 4-7 turns from lean.

not on criagslist, but there is a 280z in town just sitting on a corner for $350. no idea who is selling it, or the condition, just putting it out there. seems like a pretty damn cheap project for someone. photos >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/crazyoctopus/sets/72157623481723193/

was the rear end of choice in the 70s for road racing granted the only other option was open so...

the other reason that the #4 plug might not have done anything is because the rear carb have have been constantly flooding the engine, and removing the plug did absolutely nothing. tried again this morning and noticed if i push up on the piston the RPMs when the car is running like crap, it doesn't change its pitch/tone/rpm whenever i lift the rear carb's piston. So it is as if the rear carb isnt doing anything at all. In the 20 min of intermittent running, it did not once get into a sweet spot where the car ran fine. This evening I am going to head out and look at a set of triple webers that a local is selling, and if they are in good condition I am just going to go that route. Not too worried about the tuning part of the carbs; where I live the temp is about 73deg 80% of the year, and with my rotary background I am more than fine with turning a few screws every couple weeks. And when you think about it, these carbs have been run since the 60s where the only bit of technology that you needed on you was a screw driver, gum, and a good ear. And as far as the jetting goes, my engine is a super stock, and there is more than enough wisdom/books on these forums to dig through to get all of my answers. So I am not too worried

yep yep yep. an hour ago I took off the carbs and looked for anything that seemed out of place, and noticed that the backside of the butterflies, the back side of the piston, and the entrance of the intake manifold were damp with fuel. Note: the engine was sitting for 5 hours at this point. So I wiped it all down, pulled the floats and checked their levels still 24mm. checked all of the bolts and nuts to make sure that they were all tight, they were. took a bit of coercing but she finally started to sputter, and while they were chugging away i pulled out the #4 spark plug, nothing happened. I pulled #2 and there was a drop, then it died. It seems that with all of the tests that I have done, the issue is indeed with the carburetors; and more specifically the vacuum of the carbs. solution send the carbs in to get a complete rebuild, get a new set of SU carbs, or buy some triple weber dcoe 40s.

just pulled the plugs not 5 minutes ago and this is what they look like and yeah my floats are vented properly, i am pretty sure i sprayed carb cleaner through them while i was dismantling/cleaning them. I'll check again once I pull them out and do another check of float level

zcarnut - I was looking at the routing that the 6" of line would take, it seems kinda tight. is it going to be long enough to maintain proper droop, and not snap off when at maximum travel?

i'll grab a T fitting next time i am out of the house and hook up my gauge.

noticed my rear brake reservoir fluid a bit lower so i filled it up, and pumped teh brakes to see if the level went down... it did. so i looked around to see if there was any leakage on any of the brakes. this is what i found. looks like i am going with a different route.

So the engine started, but it took a bit of time for it to actually run normally. When it did run properly it only lasted for about 45 seconds, and then the car died suddenly. It didn't sputter or choke out, it just died as if i turned it off with the key. pictures of the plugs right after I took them out this morning, before putting them back in I cleaned them yet again with carb cleaner and a golf club brush. plug 1 plug 2 plug 3 plug 4 plug 5 plug 6 I am going to pull the plugs shortly and see if there is any change in condition. Here are the results of the comp test this morning. 1 - 150 2 - 149 3 - 150 4 - 150 5 - 146 6 - 150 avg - 149.2 Maybe I made a mistake when I did it yesterday, by dropping the timing to 12 deg, or because this time i removed all of the plugs before i did it; regardless, the comp on each cyl is still just about on avg. Before I started the car I added a dollop of bearing grease, rags idea, around the throttle bearings hoping to stop the possible vacuum leak, but it really didn't seem to do anything at all. while the car was actually running as it should I sprayed the crap out of everything front to back, and top and bottom listening for a change in rpm. Once I heard it in a particular spot I put on the straw and tried to localize the drop. Even with bearing grease on the throttle bushings (on both ends, and on both carbs) I was hearing a drop in RPM whenever I sprayed the side where the linkage comes into the carb body, not on the outboard side. So does this mean that it is time to get new carbs? or should i try cleaning them again and see if the problem persists?

nope, but if the police station looks to see that you have all of the smog stuff removed then they can give you a ticket for that. kinda weird though that he gave you a ticket on the spot, how does he know that you are polluting? did he have a tail pipe tester in his car? 'd fight it.

What did you do about the Lamp connection? via http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html As i will be removing the key for starting purposes and using a push button, should i tap it into one of the starter wires?

found a set of weber triples for $600 with intake manifold, just need to decide if that is the route that i have to go. last thing I want to do is just throw money at car without knowing exactly where the problem lies.

rev1 with a few minor corrections. -the relays actually work now -the switches are connected to the ground and not the power -the indicator lights have been rewired to activate when the relays are in full operation -added a few components. I am still confused as to how I am going to wire up the alternator to the starter/power source and am curious if anyone could give me any leads as to how to progress with this. Assume that the alt is the "upgraded" zx alt or internally regulated alternator

it was before i got the engine running. second test of the day right after compression.

i did the check earlier today and i am hitting a solid 4psi right out of the pump. also did a compression test (cold) and they were avg 120 +/-5 across all of the cyl. i'll try that gob idea tomorrow before i start the engine up, makes sense.

cheap fast lsd = welded diff.

cant get her to even start right now, so i am going to wait until tomorrow to see if that is where the final problem lies. and if it is the case, i have searched and am unable to find carb throttle bushings anywhere. the only way that i have seen the possibility of getting one is by sending the carbs in to get rebuilt...