crazyoctopus

hmm kk. well i am going to let the car/back rest and see if I can get it to stall while spraying carb cleaner in those areas again. I did try something else though. I ran the carbs lean, so as to get lean pops, and check if there was any bit of smoke sent out anywhere but the main inlet. low and behold there was a spurt that came out of the throttle bushing. I dont know if this proves that there is a lean right there, but i am going to try to reproduce it, as well as try to stall the car with some spray repeatably.

i have a fresh can of starter fluid so, pardon the fps cliché, i'll be spraying and praying.

daeron - i doubt it is the pump, that thing is way new, and the frequency that i have been replacing fuel filters (whether i needed to or not) it should be more than fine. xnke - the oil in the carbs have never been more than a month old, and they currently have fresh 5w-20 oil in them. I tried to find if there was a vacuum leak, but the car never raised rpm wherever i squirted carb cleaner or brake cleaner. If anything it kinda died a little bit, which is completely backwards to what used to happen on my old 7 (rpm goes up when you spray and there is a leak). I cleaned and made sure that both of the floats were at 24mm through the blow through method; blow through the inlet tube and once it stops the air that is where it'll sit, measured twice with calipers. the float needle, or whatever it is called, is the one from thezstore and stamped with 1.7, the older ones that i has were both 2.0; dont know if that could help. After i did this it seems that the car is running worse... i re-synced the carbs, adjusted richness on both carbs, and the rear is still much lower (near complete bottom) than the front. noticed that i am spitting some white smoke out of the back of the car, so I am sure that i am running rich somewhere. Also noticed that the engine slows down its RPM whenever i turn on the e-fan, would this also mean that the spark plugs are getting less juice, and therefore not getting enough to explode all of the gas in the chamber? I have been planning on the GM alternator as well as the 280z HEI mod, but was kinda waiting to get this problem sorted out before i went crazy with that stuff. all the signs, especially xnkes comment, point right toward a vacuum leak. but without the engine revving up like i am used to i have no idea; I'll head to the auto parts store and pick up some starter spray and see if that does anything at all for tomorrow's attempt.

okay so I replaced the fuel filter with a clear one, re-cleaned my needles, piston, and nozzle; set my timing to 12 not 8, the richness to 2.5 turns down; then tried to start her up again. with the lack of every bit of emmisions it takes a bit of work to get her running, but once she does start she is quick to turn over. once i got her running she was lean poping here and there so i made adjustments to both of the carbs and within about 5 min she was running normally. I checked to make sure that the carbs were synced, and there were a hair off so I made the adjustment. checked the richness of the carbs by the method decribed in classiczcar, and then sat in the car and this is what is going on. this is probably one of the best examples of what happens. I am making a run to the parts sotre and picking up some brake cleaner to see if there are any vaccum leaks after i post this, and then check the float level (forgot to check while i was cleaning). I am almost damn positive that it is a fuel at this point, and I am pretty sure it has to do with the rear carb. The reasons why I am moderatly sure that it is the rear is due to it needing a ton more richness. then again, it could be that vaccum leak and it needs a crazy amount of richness just to get the right mixture. On a related note, I think, I am occationally hearing rod knock sound coming from the rear of the engine, cyl 5 & 6ish. This is my first pistoned car and am not really used to sounds like this, but from what I have gathered does this mean that the rear is running lean? it doesnt happen all the time, and I have yet to really pinpoint when it exactly does. hopefully this will bring more light, and spark more ideas in your heads to help me figure out this issue.

i'll check for crap in the carb system again, hopefully that'll be the case. I did just clean everything when I pulled them apart 4 days ago, but i'll go back and look at the float as well as re-clean the nozzles. i changed the fuel filter a couple of weeks ago, maybe i'll replace it with a clear one so that i can see if it is getting dirty. and as far as the pump goes, it was replaced a couple months ago with a brand new one, i'll take it out and clean all the insides to see if there was any gunk that has been stuck in it. as far as the electrical pump goes, did you just get a universal 5-7psi pump and put on a pressure regulator? or just have the pump set to what it needed to be set to. i'll make the correction to the timing after i get the morning's coffee, and then i'll start pulling things off and cleaning where need be. thanks for the input hopefully this will help me get this thing finally running right.

Then I checked to see how the car revved through the power band. All of the jumping around is me playing with the throttle. It seems that all of my problems were solved! So I took a photo of my temp gauge to show you all what "normal temp" is on the car, to see if that is what everyone else sees. and while i was doing that the car started to act up again. so i checked to see if both carbs were actually working, twice. and showed you the difference in nozzle richness. So yeah... I have no idea what is wrong. please someone give me some advice. The only thing that I think it could be are the needles and/or nozzles, but why would it only happen after the car was warmed up, or under load?

then I checked to see if my needles and nozzles were binding. the rear piston is a bit harder to pull up than the front, so I am planning on dunmping the ATF and using some 10w30. To see how the carbs were actually balanced I used the lifting pin to see how the engine ran on only 1 carb. from what I have read about the pins, the carbs look to be too rich, but according to the colourtune they are at their best. So meh.

synced the carbs with unisyn, backed down all of the screws equally and set idle to 650-700 rpm. turned off the car, and then pulled the #2 plug looks normal, and they are less than 20 miles old. stuck the colour tune on and here is what it is at idle and then i set the idle to 3k and tuned it. movie doesnt show it well, but color that I achieved, bunsen blue with hints of orange. turned off the car and pulled #5 plug tuned the rear carb at the same rpm and finally got the same color that I got in the front.

Alrighty lets get to it. car: 10/1972 240z with an L24 and an E88. completely stock engine. I have recently been able to get my car to move under its own power, but it seems that problems keep coming about. Yesterday while taking her out for another test drive she drove fine for about 1/8th of a mile then she started to sputter, i gunned it and once i got past 3kish rpms the car pulled like I was hoping this car would be capable of. but as i started a to do some normal driving, 2k rpm cruising and 3krpm shifting the car started to sputter, lean pop, and backfire again and again. brought her back into the drive way and started testing there. she revved fine and it seems that whatever the problem was it was gone. and then after i let it idle for awhile it came back. so i came back here and started looking at what to do. This is what I have done in hopes to stop the problem. cleaned both of the carbs, replaced gaskets where needed checked float - 10.31mm checked timing - 0deg set valve clearance - with engine warm .012 exhaust .010 intake checked carb air balance - unisyn at idle checked carb fuel - tried colortune on cyl. 1 and 5, but it kept acting up and resorted to the SU carb tuning tech on classiczcar checked timing again - 0deg, and jumps to 20+ when at high rev. then I let the car sit for a night because it was getting cold and damp. double checked all of my info and found that: the timing should be at 7-10 deg not 0, i should balance the carbs at 3k rpm not idle, and colortune at 3k rpm on cyl 2 and 5. started the car up this morning, in hopes that it would all be sorted out with the inproper set up, but it obviously wasn't. here is a vid of the first start up that pop at the end is both backfire and a lean pop. awesome. So I started to re-tune everything. timing now set to 8ish deg

essentially that is what I am asking roger.svoboda; not the wiring gauge, that is something that I will figure out after I find out how long the wires are going to be, but to see if i have those fuses and their relays at the proper amperage. I have been looking back and forth from the 73 wiring diagram and trying to get the fuses as close to the original as possible, but I posted here to check with the people that have done it before to see if what I am doing is correct. When all is said and done this diagram will include everything: gauge size, length, color, part numbers for connectors, and the route it will take so as to be invisible. Everything that someone would want to have, or give, when re-wiring a car. And since I am the one doing it, there will be 2 different versions; one for track/non-street, and one for street (added circuits for turn signals, etc.). The reason behind this is that there really isn't an open source diagram that I use, or have all the information that I want to have on it.

save the money and put it towards the cost of control arms and aftermarket adjustable suspension components. otherwise it would be a waste of ~160 if you plan on changing em.

thanks hoov, I decided to remove it completely I am planning on a CB radio with a PA attached to it, so i can just yell through that if need be. and as far as the other stuff goes, this is just the first work ujp i just want to make sure that all of my fuses and relays have the correct amount of power going to them.

I am nearing the point to rip out the dash and install something different, but before I do that I want to have a full diagram ready to go so that way i can source all of the pieced needed before the dash is available. Saying that, I did a quick work up on a body wiring diagram and am curious if you could tell me if I need to change anything; miss-placed splices, too low/high amperage of a fuse/relay, etc. The things that are missing from this diagram are: starter, e-fan, wipers, heater, cb radio, fuel pump, and gauges. For a larger version click > HERE < The letters for the colors are not final, but they are what is currently on the car for ease of future installation.

where are you located?

Just finished making a timelapse video of me cleaning the carbs. First time making a movie as well as using timelapse; love it! <object width="640" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MzB3KDMEdJ8&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0x234900&color2=0x4e9e00"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MzB3KDMEdJ8&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0x234900&color2=0x4e9e00" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object> Time lapse thanks to DIYphotobits.com Music: The Kills - Getting Down

they were $515 shipped to my door; tyres were 380 mounted and balanced, kuhmo ast 225.50-15

I finally got the car on the ground, but unfortunately the engine dosen't run... I think it has something to do with the distributor, because I am getting fuel, and the multimeter showed power to where it needed to go. Anyways, here are the initial shots! note-car will be lowered about 4" all around when it come suspension time, and the passenger side turn signal is missing because it cracked and I need to replace it. minor note on the design; this is the first real non-cg/animated Datsun 240z to be photographed having both a BRE front lip AND ZG flares. I have searched through all of the 240z photos on google, and about 100 pages on flickr. If you know of one, please let me know I hope you like the rest of the photos can be found here

So now for the next bit of building... After the brakes were bled it came time for me to intall the e-brake cables onto the brakes themselves. now while Modern Motorsport sells a bracket with cleavis bolts and cotter pins for $30, I knew that I would be able to get the job done for significantly cheaper. And I was able to do just that, total cost = $0 here is where the e-brakes lines sit in comparison to the caliper started with the idea of using a bracket that came off of the drum brakes, but it turned out that the holes were too close together and I dont have the right tools to make the holes longer. So then I looked around for what I had, and then found some Plumbers Tape. folded it twice and cut. and sure enough the spacing for the larger hole was the perfect distance between the e-brake line and the caliper bracket. just to show you the actual thickness of the bracket, here is it compared to the modified bracket that I was going to use. here is the test install, I say test because these bolts will be replaced with some clevis bolts and cotter pins when I head to the hardware store tomorrow; which will bring the total cost to about $5usd Oh and to get the e-brake line to stay in the 240sx e-brake bracket I swaped the brackets on the calipers so that they would have a near perfect angle to the caliper itself, and then used two 7/16" spring washers and an extra brake line holder thing. and by the way, that line is not moving anytime soon. In order to get the e-brake lines to have less slack, and significantly less rubbage on the drive-axle, I crossed the lines above the differential and viola! With some slight change of location to the sping that holds them up and out of the way the stock e-brake lines are now in the perfect length. I will add a clip here and there to remove all of the rub tomorrow.

thanks to Hoov100, I was able to get some free power with an L28 (n42 & n47) so I will be in the process of transferring what I need from my spare engine onto it. On a build note, my MM 240sx brake calipers came in and to my surprise they match my wheel wells! Then after a few cigarettes, a trip to the dump, and an engine/tranny dismantle I finally got the rear brakes installed! while it isnt the prettiest of brake connections it will work. in order for it to work I had to grind off the tab that aligns the stock banjo. Tomorrow I will get them bled, and then the first shots of the car on the ground with the 15x10s. Then I play the waiting game, probably till thursday, when my carburetor kit comes in and hopefully get the L24 running while I have fun with the L28.

awesome. does the l28 run? and when are you free

... where was this when i was asking for info...

(4) 15x10 - 25 @ 12lbs = $2500 + tax & shipping for the volk te37v vs (4) 15x10 -25 @ 20lbs = $515 shipped for diamond star racing pro/comp five times as much, but 5 times as awesome; lets not forget 60% less weight.

as long as the weather is clear when the brackets come in it should be on the ground within the week. the car running on the otherhand... I think that I have to rebuild my carbs... the nozzle, i think that is what it is, is stuck. so yeah...

I got all of the parts in and here are the photos. here is what the stock attachment looks like I went with a different banjo adapter than i originally said, and probably should have stuck with it. with this setup i will probably have to grind off one of the tabs. the stainless lines are from MSA; 10mm x 1.0 inverted nipples on both ends.