Kevin Shasteen

Phil, Pretty cool when the numbers start talking to you-dont you think? 8) Jack, Something else I forgot to mention about engine sims-at least it is something I have discovered: I dont know about the more expensive simulations but the cheaper simulations will usually ASSUME your Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure is "Optimum" when they make their calculations. So when we build our combo's in some software-just be aware if the intake ports are being assumed prior to plumping your money down for the actual hardware...again just my .02c's worth on what I have noticed on the 1st & 2nd generation Desktop Dyno's. In the real world if you mismatch your DCR & SCR along w/mismatching your Intake Manifold Cross Sectional Ports then Airflow Velocity is severely compromised) and your engine will not run that great at low rpm's or not at all w/out an idle in the 1000-1500rpm range. For the track this is okay but for a street engine/daily driver this is a troublsome characteristic to put up with in stop/go rush hour. Q: Does Engine Analyzer assume a perfect/near optimum intake port pressure when calculating enigne output? From what I have discovered, providing intake manifold pressure is optimum, the relationship between your DCR & SCR will determine the rpm range where your peak tq/hp surface. The closer your DCR is to an 8.5:1 the sooner your tq/hp peak numbers will enter the picture while the more your DCR is minimized from an 8.5:1 DCR into the 7.5:1 DCR the further up the rpm range your tq/hp will be delayed prior to surfacing. The further your DCR is compromised from down from the 7.0:1 into the 6.5:1 DCR and lower the closer you are entering detination territory as well as ensuring a 1000-1500rpm idle: which would require a more "dedicated race engine" DCR between 8.8:1 to 9.0:1 to maximize your compressions (maximize your engine's output)....according to Vizard-that is. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Joel, but after looking at what you did to your car on your site I would say your restoration to your car was much harder than my learning the math involved to an engine...its just a choice-both involve extreme perseverance.....Very nice car you got there. If I had your car I would not be embarrassed of still being an inliner. Jack, About the 8-10% off thing; welcome to theory I believe this is where you have to understand that no matter where you get your data there will always be some level of tolerance built into that paper calculations. Even if you paper calc's are done on a nice engine sim as the one you have. Paper theory calc's are designed to get you in the ball park and from there the R&D takes over: the better your data-the less R&D required to get you that much closer to your objected goal. I was looking at the magazine rack last night and I think it was "Hot Rod" that lists 10 or 20 ways to calculate the power of your engine. They rated each approach on a scale from 1-5. They gave engine sims a 3, 4.5 depending on which program you are utilizing...so as you can see, even the very best engine sims are not perfect. Somewhere along the way the car will have to jump off the chalk board and take to the street for a little R&D. Just my opinion-FWIW. Phil, About the Intake Absolute Pressure statement-I guess I was reading too many other posts on HybridZ last night as I know I read on some thread someone talking about Intake Vacuum and at the time I put it in this thread I didnt realize it was not pertinate to this specific thread...sorry for the confusion. BTW: I think it is also important to remember when dealing with Crank Angle Charts for the sole purpose of building your engine in such a way that your DCR & SCR compliment one another that David Vizard states a hot street engine can get away with a 7.5:1 to 8.0:1 DCR and for a dedicated race engine you would need an 8.8:1 to 9.0:1 DCR. Just something I forgot to mention in the previous post. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

You cant automatically assume a 10.0:1 SCR simply because you obtained a 165 PSI during a Compression Test: this assumption does not take your Cam's Duation, Displacement, nor Atmospheric Pressure into consideration. Your cylinder pressure is indicative of your Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) as it is factored in with Atmospheric Pressure (AP)...not your Static Compression Ratio (SCR). This dance that takes place between your DCR, SCR, and AP is meaningless if your Intake System leading up to your Cylinder is mismatched to your power needs as Airflow Velocity will have been compromised. For a hot street engine you need your Cross Sectional Area of the Intake Ports to be at least .80 to .85 of your Cylinder Head's Intake Port and .90 for a dedicated race engine. There is no such thing as "Vacuum" in your intake system-what you are reading is the Pressure Differential between the Absolute Pressure in your Intake Ports as that pressure comes into contact w/the Ambient Atmospheric Pressures. To know the Absolute pressure in your Intake Manifold's ports you will use the Barometric reading and not the AP readings. So if your Intake Port reads 16inches Hg at idle-then you would subtract that from the Barometric reading of your Altitude, like so: 29.9 - 16 = 13.9" Hg DCR is indicative of how much Volume remains above the piston after the Intake Valve Closing (IVC) occurs. Remember, the IVC takes place after the piston has passed BDC. One of the formulas on the Grapeape website states this formula for calculating the PSI rating: PSI = DCR^1.2 x AP PSI = Pounds Per Square Inch DCR= Dynamic Compression Ratio 1.2 = Exponent that represents adiabatic pressures (how pressure responds to thermodynamics) AP = Atmospheric Pressure Obviously you wont know your DCR unless you have a Crank Angle Chart and your cam specs, specifically your "Seat to Seat" Duration spec. Because we dont have the Crank Angle Chart specific to your engine nor your Cam's Seat-to-Seat Duration spec; we wont know your DCR-so we will have to work our math equation backwards. TRANSPOSING THE EQUATION If you already know your PSI and it is 165 then the formula from the Grapeape website looks like this: 165 = DCR^1.2 x AP The first step would be divide your AP by itself and then also divide your AP into the 165. Let's say you are at Sea Level-so your AP would be 14.7. So the next step would look like this: 165 / 14.7 = DCR^1.2 x (14.7 / 14.7) Upon working this out your equation now looks like this: 11.22 = DCR^1.2 The next step is a little more complicated at first glance since we are dealing w/an Exponent; but once you understand how to transpose an exponent it really isnt that difficult. What you do is divide the Exponent into [1] and your answer will then be applied to the 11.22 as an Exponent. The answer to this last step will be your DCR; voila-you now have your theoretical answer to the question, "What is my DCR?" So, divide 1.2 into 1, like so: 1 / 1.2 = .8333 Now apply this sum to the 11.22 as an exponent, like so: 11.22^.8333 = 7.498, or 7.5:1 This is your DCR....as in THEORETICAL DCR. If you wish to know your SCR you will have to "Guestimate" your Total Chamber Volume and apply that guestimation to the Compression Ratio Equation. The Compression Ratio Equation is: (Cylinder Volume + Total Chamber Volume) / Total Chamber Volmue = CR Since we are dealing w/DCR and not SCR our CR is actually known as the Effective CR, or as the politically correct math nuts call it: CRe. By either name it is still the amount of volume remaining above the piston at the moment that corresponds w/the IVC. So you ask, "What does this have to do with the price of chickens in China?" Not much-just making sure you unerstand the difference between DCR & SCR as far as the PSI readings are concerned. Once you have guestimated your Total Chamber Volume you can now plug that figure into the CR formula and work the math accordingly. Let us say you tallied your Total Chamber Volume to be 75 cc and our engine is a SBC 350. First calculate your individual Cylinder Volume and convert it to cc's also 350 / 8 = 43.75 cubic inches now use the 16.387 constant to change your cubic inches to cubic centimeters 43.75 x 16.387 = 716.93 Now plug our Cyl.Vol and guestimated Total Chamber Vol into the CR formula and your equation now looks like this: (716.93cc + 75cc) / 75cc = 10.559, or 10.6:1 SCR To guestimate your Total Chamber Volume you would need to know: 1) Cylinder Head Combustion Chamber Volume 2) Piston -Dish or +Dome Volume 3) Piston Ring Land Volume: for a small block assume 1.3 cc 4) Piston Deck to Block Deck Clerance Volume Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Interesting thread. I would have to say the outcome depends on a few items. How to proceed, if one were legally going to proceed, depends on the contracts involved: remember that the word "contract" isnt a reference to written contracts only, rather it is also a reference to vebal contracts. The written contracts involved will be those signed by both the instructors and the visiting drivers who have brought along their cars. In these written contracts you will find a slew of "Hold-me-Harmless" agreements. A Hold-me-Harmless agreement is basically a disclaimer to which one or both parties sign and agree to hold each other harmless in the case of damages to property or injuries to persons. The principles of fault involved will first be trumped by these Hold-me-Harmless contracts. If there were no Hold-me-Harmless contracts signed then the only contracts involved would be the "Verbal" contracts made betweent he owner of the BMW and the Instructer. One word about Hold-me-Hamless agreements: if the instructor was covered by the track or a secondary policy of his own for injuries or damages to the track sponsored cars....those policies will always have an exclusionaly clause stating that this policy is not liable for any promisses made by the insured w/out the insurance companies permission. So if the instructor has insurance-w/the exclusionary clause not covering promisses to exposures that are not already covered; and the instructor makes these promises, out of ignorance or not-then the instructor is liable if/when damages arise as a result to his extra-liable/exposures not covered by his insurance. Granted the court/judge/jurors and us common folk would assume that merely by having your car at the track your have assumed all damages to your car will be tuff luck. This principle falls under the "Assumption of Risk" principle. Just like taking your kid to a baseball game and you park your car too close to the diamond-then a foul ball hits your car breaking your windshild. Do you really expect the kid to pay for your glass? No. You assumed the risk by parking your car to close to the diamond-and anyone knows that baseballs brake glass...so dont park so close to the diamond next time. Another principle in insurance is the "Guest Statute". Some states have this statute and some dont. The Guest Statute is a reference to the passenger, or guest, in a car. The guest is always someone who is sitting in any seat other than the driver's seat. How the principle plays out is if the driver of any car is operating their vehicle in such a manner that one, a couple, or all passengers feel the well being of their lives (or their property-as in a car) is in jeopardy "AND SPEAKS UP" requesting the driver to slow down...OR STOP AND LET ME OUT: and the driver refuses to do so-then looses control and injures someone or something, then the driver is at fault and expected to pay any/all damages. Another principle in the finder details of fault is the Care-Custody-Control principle: also known as CCC. CCC involves someone who is given CCC over property that they themselves do not own. Withing this principle comes a duty/responsibility in accepting someone else's property that you not only acknowledge you now have that property in your CCC but that you will also return that property in the same condition or better condition that when you initially accepted it. When combining the operation of automobiles w/the CCC principle, CCC begins when the keys to your car are placed in the hands of someone else with your knowledge and having done so willfully and intentionally. Along w/that "giving of the keys" is a legal binding of what is expected of your car while under the CCC of someone else other than yourself. Another principle in fault is the degree of negligence. Some states differ in how they apply negligence. Some states proclaim that a plaintiff must be less than 50% negligent to file a claim against someone. Other states are No-Fault states meaning each party handles their own damages: if you have no coverage, well-then you are up a creek w/o a paddle. Other states will allow a claim to be filed if the other party is only 1% at fault-but your award will be kept to that 1%. In other words if you are at fault for 30% of the damages you can only file a complaint for 70% damages and not 100%. Or if you were at fault for 40% damamges your complaint could only be for 60%. For clearifications you would need to check w/the rules of your state. So, to racap: if there were no Hold-me-Harmless agreements signed by your friend or the instructor or agreements demanded signed by the track: then the track and the instructor, who are both experts, knew or should've known better and as a result are liable. If it were only that simple In the absence of a written contract we must look at the intent of your friend showing up w/his souped up BMW and look at the scope of the verbal contract between your friend and the instructor when the offer "Take my BMW and show me the line" was made...to which the instruct accepted the offer, "OK come with me". 1) What was said 2) What was the verbal contract 3) What was the intent of your friend when he made the offer to the instructor 4) What was the fiduciary duty/responsibility of the instructor within the trust created by the verbal agreement 5) What was the expectation of your friend as a passenger/owner of the car when he made that offer 6) What was said by your friend at the very moment the instructor was going "balls out" 7) Who heard it 8) Can you prove it in court room? Answer those questions and you will have your answer as to what degree of liability lies where. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Greg, at least we now know about the bellhousing issue. Perhaps one of our down udner (Ausie) members can chime in on the RWD motor mounts...as their Holden's, which are GM 3800's, are mounted in the RWD set up. Surely GM doesnt have two different blocks when it comes to FWD or RWD motor mounts (?). FWIW: I've doen extensive searching on the web for these answers w/very little feedback. I did come across one site where one post mentioned that the 90 degree Bk V6 3800's are build in America as long blocks and then sent to Holden in Austrailia for completion. I've done so much searching these last few days, I cant remember if I read this somewhere here at HybridZ or on another site. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just finished @ three hours of searching thru all 49 pages of this thread in hopes of answering the RWD Tranny question...no w/o a shadow of doubt answers. Does the 3800 Bk V6 engine still use the BOP bellhousing bolt pattern and are there Notrh/South motor mount bolt holes on this engine: in other words, can this engine be mounted in a North/South manner (RWD) w/conventional motor mounts at the side of the block? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I have searched thru the entire 49 pages of the "6 Cylinder Engine's" forum and have only found two/three threads asking the same questions w/out definitive answers. So, thought I would post the same question here. Does the 3800 Bk V6 have the typical BOP bellhousing bolt pattern and does the FWD engine series come with motor mount bolt holes on the sides of the block in case someone wanted to mount the engine in a North/South RWD fashion?? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

FWIW, While going thru some old post for Bk 3.8/4.1 info, I found this one. A book I obtained while working for GM/MIC, "Mechanical Parts-Labor & Illustrations" should help clearify the V6 engine optioins: it denotes: "E" cars: Riviera, Toronado & Eldorado's 1) 1979-81 Buick 3.8 V6, T-4BC carbs: 5th digit in VIN, #3 engine code 2) 1982 Buick 3.8 V6, T-4BC carbs: 8th digit in VIN, #3engine code 3) 1981 Buick 4.1 V6, 4BC carb, 5th digit in VIN, #4 engine code 4) 1982-84 Buick 4.1 V6, 4BC carb: 8th digit in VIN, #4 engine code 5) 1984-85 Buick 3.8 V6, T-SFI: 8th digit in VIN, #9 engine code Just thought I would pass the info along. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Separate the TT and its realy from getting any power. Drive the car for a day or two (and just stay out of the accelerator-dont push the turbo any harder than needed to comute). See it the problem shows up or not. If the problem doesnt surface after isolating it from the rest of the car/engine's circutry then you have found the source: then either the TT & its relay are defective or they have been installed in such a manner that they are getting/giving electrical feedback from/to your ignition system. Have you tried calling the mfg of the TT & its relay-perhaps they will know exactly what the problem is....maybe a diode in the harness somewhere is all that is needed Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Almost sounds like an electrical short, whereby the short is resulting in electrical feedback to another component: which somehow affects either your ignition or your fuel, or both. This component, at certain conditions, will build up w/this unengineered and unexpected electricity; it then builds up w/this electrical charge to the point where it either has to overheat (fail) or discharge that extra electricity. To which this component then releases that electrical charge and voila-everything runs fine again: until the next cycle. I once had an electrical gremlin on my Z: bone stock 280Z 2+2 whereby the engine would miss. I discovered it would do so at any rpm but it was only when my A/C was on: this miss also corresponded to the exact moment when the A/C compressor clutch would magnetize (click on). Upon closer inspection I found that someone, prior to my owning the car, had rerouted the feed wire to the distributor incorrectly. By doing so the distributor feed wire was sitting on the compressor clutch pulley. Thru time the turning of the pulley ground the wire bare-so everytime the clutch was engaged-the distributor signal was interrupted...shorted, which caused me to lose power. Just a long story to basically say-dont give up and keep looking. Your problem sounds like the signal to your ignition or fuel system is being interrupted for some unk reason. Can you think of any other variables when this problem occurs? Is your A/C on? Is it only at higher rpms/lower rpms? Is it only in the daytime/night time? Are your turn signals on/off...ect. Sorry, no actual solutions-just more thinking out loud: it definately sounds like a wiring short of some kind. Have you checked all your grounds to all electrical components that your new wiring harness connects? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If/When you have ignition problems....dont forget our Z's, 280Z's & On, also have an Ignition [RELAY]. It mounts down by the fuse box just above the ignition module. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Run a can of Barriman's Fuel Tank Additive w/every fuel fill up for the next few months. Dont forget on those 240z's that you have a fuel filter not only at the engine but also at the back near the fuel tank just behind & upwards of the rear passenger side wheel/tire. The cap of that fuel filter just screws off and down falls the fuel filter...make sure your face is out of the way-dont wanna be swallowing any fuel I'ld also wanna replace all your belts...cheap stuff like the first post said. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Those blasted gremlins , wish I could help ya but I'm not up on the ZX's nor the ZXT's. Just off the top of my head...sounds like some sort of fuel enrichment problem of some kind(?). As far as the dieing on deceleration...that sounds like some sort of "Deceleration Valve Adjusement" or something similar. Since alot of this began w/the advent of your new harness-perhaps you have a bad ground wire somewhere. Have you checked all possible ground wires/straps? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

You can find a Colored Picture guide of "Reading Spark Plugs" on the back of the book cover to Chris Jacob's book, "The Doctor's Step by Step Guide to Optimizing your Ignition" w/a 1984, 1986 Copywrite. His book has since be renamed, it now goes by the title, "Performance Tuning Systems. The newer book also has a guide to reading spark plugs except it is not in color: it is in black & white w/a good discription: you will find this chart in the middle of his 1999 Copywrite book. Some of the cheapy repair manuals also have this chart in the back. Sometimes they are colored and sometimes thay are in black and white. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Josh, I'm not to familiar w/the ZX's, but usually the washer pump on the import cars are basically aftermarket type pumps. First you need to make sure you are getting electricity to your washer pump. One you have determined if you pump is getting electricity-check the ground wire. If your ground is good, and your pump is also getting electricity-then most likely your washer pump motor is defective. I would think the pump for your head light buckets would be separate from your windshield washer pump. You need to look up your wdshld wshr pmp in a manual & identify if it is integral to your washer bottle or mounted separate of your washer bottle. There are only a few different types of wshld wshr pmps. Once you have identified your style pump, remove it and take it w/you to your nearest parts store. You may find an exact replacement. If there are no factory replacements then you will have to settle w/an aftermarket wsher pmp. Usually you will find an aftermarket style pump that can be wired directly in to your system. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sorry to tell you, but it is next to impossible to diagnose w/out more details. A normally aspirated engine will always need three things: air, fuel, and spark. Then throw in FI sensors as well as their relays and things get a little fuzzier. You'ld need to obtain a Factory Manual for your car as it would walk you thru the appropriate diagnostic checks. It would also benefit you to obtain a book, go to your nearest Barnes & Nobles or Hastings, and try to find a book on L-Jetronic FI....usually you'll find the book on Bosch EFI and each chapter will be dedicated to one of Jetronic systems that Bosch has come out with in the past few years; make sure it disucsses "L-Jetronic FI" as that is the system Nissan used on the early FI Z's. You may also wish to speak to local mechanics for insight as to what your next steps in diagnostics should be. Once you have made a few more diagnostic checks and have a little more data-report back here and maybe someone can help. Till then....need more details. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I wish I knew how to cut/paste as I would show you my set up. BTW: my car is a 2+2. I used a 240watt 4channel Head Unit in the factory location, 2 6" rounds Infinity in the 2 Factory Speaker locations under the 1/4 windows, and a CD Deck: purchase a generic Amp System from Walmart. Dont bother purchasing any Custom Head Adaptor Brackets as you will want to use metal strapping w/enough tensil strengh that keeps its shape when you bend it. For my source of power to the amp I ran the wiring straight from the battery thru the hole at the firewall where your wiring harness on the battery side enters the passenger hull just in front of the fuse panel. You can run this wiring down the side of passenger floor up to the amp. The wiring harness plug in the engine compartment is just below the area where your HVAC vacuum line enters the passenger compartment. This metal strapping is what you will use to mount your Head Unit to the console: if you have not pulled your console out yet you will see what I am talking about if/when you are ready to install said Head Unit. I found the metal strapping gave a more solid attachment than some flimsy plastic bracket from some kit. The metal strapping is the same strapping that usually comes in a Stereo Head Unit box-meant to be bolted up to the back of the Head Unit & the other end of the strapping is suppose to be mounted to the firewall; unfortunately there isnt a whole lot of room behind the stereo-so mounting the metal strapping to the firewall is not an option. Luckily I had two pieces of metal strapping: I used one for each side of the Head Unit-and cut them to fit after reshaping them. One end of the metal strapping attaches to the Head Unit while the other end of the strapping attaches to the factory mounting on the inside of your console. You will have to play w/this strapping to get the proper bend so that your Head Unit will fit flush to the dash once your console is reinstalled. All the wires leading up to your console wiring harness have plug-in's just left of the passenger's knee if you were sitting in the passenger's seat: and is a very tight space. Since I dont smoke I plugged my cigarette lighter into my power antenna. I ran the power ant wiring inside the driver's side trim panel when it was removed during the driver's side speaker install. In order to remove the driver's side rear trim panel to gain access to the power ant. you will have to remove the driver's side rear hatch hyd.strut support as the trim panel is also held to the body by the same mounting stud that mounts your hyd. hatch shock/support-whatever you want to call it. I bought an on/off switch from Autozone that fits in one of the console plugs next to the hazard light switch: so I could control my Pwr Ant manually. This way if I ever go thru an auto car wash I could lower my Pwr Ant and still listen to a tape if I wanted...or CD w/out the Pwr Ant rising up. You have to cut the factory speaker holes to fit larger speakers...no way around it: but when you hear the sound from an upgraded/custom system you will be glad you did. In order to cut the holes you have to remove the trim pieces at the 1/4 window. This means you have to remove all the little plastic 20 year old clips (dont be to upset when they break): I replaced all the clips w/phillips course threaded screws. In order to remove the trim panel you will have to remove the 1/4 window. Once you have the 1/4 window removed the trim will come off. BE CAREFUL as the window weatherstrip sealant is VERY VERY TACKY!!...and black so if you interior color is light-dont let the black stuff come in contact w/your interior. So have paper towels ready to catch it-so as to not allow the tacky black tar like substance to end up on your trim (believe me it is like taffy being stretched-and it gets on everything if you are not prepared for it. I enlarged the speaker holes w/a Jig-Saw. It helps if your Jig-Saw has multiple speeds so you can go a slower pace. A Roto-Zip Saw would be even better. Be sure and use your Speaker Templets. I also ran two lines to the rear of my cargo area for bass speakers. I put the Amp under the passenger seat and installed the CD Player under the driver's seat. As for the ground wires for the Head Unit and Amp I installed them on the passenger seat's frame mount. Remove the passenger seat and pull up the carpet: you will see a relay also mounted there. I had to remove the relay and drill a whole a few inches further down to make room for my ground wires: it is best if you mount your ground wires together and as close to the accessories as possible. The CD Player doesnt have a ground wire as it gets its power from the Head Unit. All in all it took me about a week to do simply because I dont have a garage and all week it kept raining on/off. This was my first serious install-pretty much straght forward...just take your time and think things through. It is nice to hear quality sound when winding down the road w/the window down and you can hear every note distinctly. Hope this helped. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Kim Barr will treat you right...I've used him before, and he will not take any short cuts. Is he in Dallas now, last time I used him he was in Garland. The only problem you might find w/his shop is his work schedule...always overloaded (I take this to mean his reputation is a good one) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Its amazing all the blood that was shed when one reads about Europe's history: and all the wanna'be power mongers. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

So, if he would have blown the gunpowder would he have been a Terrorists, or a Liberator? Only the victors get to write the history books. The Jesuits seem to be behind a lot of turmoil...once you begin reading about the political history of the older nations. Happy B-Day. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I was playing around with the BMEP figures and comparing them to DD2000. Upon doing so I noticed that DD2000 basically uses close to exact BMEP formula's as the typical P-L-A-N / 33,000 BMEP formulas: within a tolerance of 1 to 2psi differences. This peaked my curiosity about the others: IMEP, FMEP, & VE%. I realize the owners of DD2000 consider their fomula's proprietary but I had hoped perhaps someone/anyone might possibly have an inkling of exactly how DD2000 goes about calculating their numbers? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

C'mon, give Ivan a break. After all, Ivan will have the last laugh when he reveals his "Beanie Baby" themed Z at next years Motorsport get together which I hear, as rumor has it, has attracted such fluent pillars of society as BBM (Beanie Baby Magazine), not to be confused with BM (Barbie Magaizine) who will also be ther: and last but not least CPDA...Cabbage Patch Dolls Allumni. Just think about it...a Beanie Baby themed Z-what a Babe Magnet. (JK IVAN ) Hey, while the Ebay seller's email is available-perhaps we should inquire as to what tools he purchased. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm going to buy you an American-English Dictionary and an American-English Slang Dictionary' date=' okay?[/quote'] While you are at it you should buy yourself a Law Dictionary and a complete volume of the Uniform Commercial Code (UCC) and maybe then you will understand today's economics. As a resulte you wont need the slang dictionary When using policy language, such as banker vernacular or corporate vernacular, you can not turn to slang: words used for policy language have specific meanings...and slang doesnt quite cut it. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Johnc, You cant offend me John nor are you putting me on the spot...I am very thick skinned-and most of all, this is an extremely important subject: so dont feel that any question you or anyone else may have will ruffle my feathers even if I dont have the answer it is still an important subject that needs discussing. Conversation is always good especially if it displaces confusion. Since you used the generic term for Capital-which is not equal to the legalistic definition: would this not imply that your use of the very word differs from the legal forum in which the term was created? Since Capital is "Cash under my matress"...what is Cash? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)