Kevin Shasteen

It could be a number of things (Doh!). If it's ignition related it could be your dist, cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, coil, or your ignition module. Some of these items will need to be checked w/a V/O meter. Your fuel injectors may be malfunctioning. Do you have a Factory Service Manual(?), which will give you instructions on how to properly check the electrical items. It could be a fuel injection relay: check your relay's w/an V/O meter. Be sure and check the simple things like your air filter first. When you say it runs fine once it finally starts-does this mean that the engine has plenty of get up and go..or does it ever back fire after starting?...and any rpm?...under WOT? Describe how the engine turns over just before it starts: does the engine turn over sluggishly or does the engine turn over quickly? Sluggishly-I would check your battery cables, both the ground cable & the cable going to your starter. If it turns over quickly then your problem is not in the starting system...unless your Ignition Switch is defective. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ok, how the heck do I go about putting a picture on one of these threads? I have access to the digital camera and I can dowload said pic's to my computer...but how do I get those pic's from my computer to the thread? DavyZ once responded that I had to find someone on the net to host the pict and then transfer the pic from that host to the thread. Once I find someone who will host the pic how do I get the pic from my computer to the host's site? Once the pic is on the host's site how do I go about transferring it from that host to the HybridZ thread? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

In response to IntenseRestorations comments-BTW welcome to HybridZ and hope this gets worked out between the two of you. .., and to add a little to what a few others have stated since. Being a professional shop owner means more than simply being in business. It means that if you dont take KEEP YOUR WORD by delivering to your customer what your customer expects-then you can bet your life that their "word of mouth" will kill a good reputation. I have had the luxury of working in one of the main 4 Insurance Companies that sold Premises Insurance to Auto Dealers (new & used dealers) at the time of my employement we were responsible for 40% of all dealers in the 52 States of the Union. I worked there for 12 years: so I know about Consumer Protection. Both of you need to exhaust your administrative abilities and keep this out of court. If it does go to court then you, the business owner, will lose. This claim will be handled just as if one of you purchased a chopped car that was made up of two separate cars without ever knowing the car was a chopped up car: or if one of you puchased a car w/false mileage on the odometer. The individual that did not disclose all the facts will have to reimburse the new owner of all exp's and possible addt'l damages depending on the state. Then if you, the previous owner, want your money back you will have to go to the owner that owned the car before you....providing that they touted this car as an "All Original 240z" just as you did-which led up to your having purchased said car and then reselling to the current owner. The damages will follow the chain of title up until it gets to the individual that initially misrepresented said car. You, the previous owner, CAN NOT just say "Oh Well-So Sorry" and then walk away nor can you say "Hey, I didnt know the VIN's didnt match-here is the previous owner's name...go get your money from them." The courts dont care if the last owner didnt ask you about the VIN. All they care about is if you represented the car correctly or if you misrepresented said car. If you misrepresentation is founded in A MISTAKE...you still lose. I also have had the luxury of being raised in a family owned business the first 25 years of my life-we were on call for 24 hours a day. So I not only understand what you and the purchaser of this car are going thru as well as what the customer expects when you, a business owner, gives their word. In my parents company we ate a lot of mistakes simply because it meant, in the long run, we would come out ahead. My dad/mom were doing what FedEx & UPS were doing long before FedEx and UPS came along: they have not been in that business for a good 15 years now. Yet, simply because we went above the call of duty and had such a great reputation (this means giving your customer an honest shake) my family could go to a number of domestic/air freight companies "TO THIS DAY" and they would know of the name we operated under 20 years ago...reputation will make or break your business! It is good that you came here to plead your case-that does means you have a conscience. The only problem is that you, a shop owner-who is in the business of buying, repairing, restoring, and selling cars (classics), in a court of law, WILL BE HELD TO A HIGHER STANDARD! When you used the words "All Original 240z" you are the EXPERT. You either KNEW or you SHOULD HAVE KNOWN. If you DID NOT KNOW then you should have not stated "All Original 240z". It is A MISTAKE, its a mistake you, the professional, made. The courts doesnt care if the consumer asked all the right questions. The issue at hand is, "Was the car sold under Good Faith or misrepresented and sold in Bad Faith?" This mistake, and just because it is a mistake-does not mean that you are a bad person nor that you are a disreputable person running a disreputable shop. What it means is that you misrepresented your product either intentionally or unintentionall. If it was unintensionally then the courts will be a little more understanding-but you will still lose. The courts dont care if your mistake was unintentional. The purpose for Consumer Protection Laws is to do just that...PROTECT THE CONSUMER. It would behoove you to handle this problem between yourselves-or as you can see: word of mouth, with the advent of the internet, takes on a whole new meaning in the 21st Century. A good reputation will keep your shop in business for years to come, whereas a bad reputation will kill your business over night. Exhaust your administrative abilities while you both still can. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Before taking any action do you know or have you confirmed that the engine is not an "Certified Datsun Replacement Engine"? In other words, if/when an engine fails the dealer will have a rpl engine that the mfg authorizes as a direct OEM replacement engine. This engine will have specific serial#'s that separate it from just any other engine from another car. The auth OEM rpl engine will have serial#'s indicating that it is auth OEM rpl engine as opposed to just some other engine from another car. As to your car you purchased: If he says in his add, "All Original 240z" and did not disclose up front that there were one or more items on the Z that "Are Not Original 240z Parts" then his lack of disclosure can land him in a heap'n help'n of legal problems. Even if you signed some sort of a buyer beware disclaimer...you signed said disclaimer and or baught said car under the pretense of it being "All Original 240z". Therefore, if the car is not "All Original 240z" then he sold the car to you under false pretenses and anything you signed under false pretenses are void from inseption....in court, He Loses and YOU WIN: especially if he is an "Expert" because he either knew or should've known that the car was not an "All Original 240z". If there are items that are not "All Original 240z" and it was your having read said vernacular "All Original 240z" that inspired you to buy said car, or to buy the car at the price you paid for it-where had the words "All Original 240z" not been a part of the description...then you would have neither bought said car or would have not paid as much for said car-then the seller's butt is in a possible legal sling. It all depends on why you purchased the car and what you were going to do with the car after having purhcased it. As far as taking action against the seller you should weigh the pro's and con's as to what was you intended purpose of buying the car? Did you buy the car because of its originality too which you too were going to keep it an "All Original 240z" or were you going to alter the engine and/or its body in some manner? If you too were going to alter the car then you would need to weigh the items that were not original against the items you yourself were going to alter. It is your choice to take action or not. Without more details from you it really is hard to say one way or another. If you feel you were seriously rooked you should locate an atty in the state where the car was purchased that specializes in "Consumer Protection Rights". Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Man-prices sure have come down since I purchased mine. I have two, a cheap one from Sam's and a more expensive one w/the tripple whatever layered tarp that I bought from some distributor. The cheap one is used when I need some kind of protection from the elements while working on something (not to good for heavy winds-even when anchored down). The more expensive one, which is somewhere in the range of the second picture you put up yet mine is a single wide and not a double wide...I paid @ $700 for mine with the main difference between the two I have is the amount of metal reinforcement. I have had the more expensive one now for about 7 years and use it soley for storage. Also, if you plan on using this set up as a shop or protecting a nice car, is that the bottom of the tarps will not keep out wind from outside unless you rig up some sort of a wind block. If you do this then the insides will be quite toasty in the winter w/a simple space heater or frigid in the summer w/a window A/C unit. The only problem I have found w/going the tarp way as opposed to getting a metal one or building a wood frame building is that if you have cat(s) their curiosity will be to play on it...which means their claws will poke a bunch of holes in them: and the next time it rains or snows you will have leaks everywhere. Of course this is not a problem w/the tent it is more of a problem w/what becomes of your nice tent if you dont have some manner of keeping the cats off it. I live in the country and need cats to scare the mice off. Needless to say-when a few of the cats couldnt resist playing on the tarped structures...they quickly saw their 9th life pass them by If you buy one of these or become a distributor-dont skimp on the outer layer...definately buy the thicker layers: and for goodness sake keep them blasted cats away from it! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

You fuel pump relay wont be energized until after the key ignition switch is turned. It sounds like your fuel pump is working...this means your fuel pump relay is likewise working. The problem as I see it, until further diagnostics proves otherwise, is that your fuel pump relay is powering up the pump at the wrong time. This would suggest to me that your ignition switch is bad. The igniqion switch is an electrical part that turns your mechanical turning of the key into electrical instrucions to your car's wiring system. This ignition switch is screwed into the key switch and located just behind the key switch. You will have to obtain a manual and look up ignition switch for instructions on how to remove said part. Check Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, and Nissan Parts Dept for prices on the ignition switch. .., of course-you should always confirm a part is defective prior to replacing it. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Nic, I would say that is exactly my point: and it is political correctness. What good is it to remove a "label" and still talk about the process that the label references? Its foolishness. I would rather have the word remain and the subject be taught openly and honestly from both sides...this is about free will. If you posture how the subject is taught and dont fully disclose both sides then you have removed the right of free will from those that are being taught. People are getting hung up on a word...a WORD! It is an inanimate object..it is a fiction and has no flesh or blood: it has no power over you other than that which your mind gives it. If you ban this label then why not ban any and all other labels that dont fit your paradigm, or my paradigm: where does it end? It wont end because rarely will two people ever agree. Even people who do agree on a subject dont agree 100%: so should we ban all people who dont agree w/us? Hello mob-rule (democracy)...goodbye Republic People are label oriented. We have been brainwashed so much so that if/when you or I start talking about an issue we have to fill it w/so many qualifiers otherwise we might get labeled...people might say, "Oh, you're one of THOSE!" Look at how you and I put in our qualifiers, "I'm not an athiest, or I dont believe in Evolution" ect., ect. We are so afraid of labels now days that the real substance of an issue gets trampled on and as a result both sides are never taught-simply becuase we give the label more credence than the issue or those that wish to manipulate how the issues are taught label someone so that they are so afraid of being labeled they will never research said issue. When you auth govt to begin "banning" of any kind-then you have just allowed the camel's nose to enter the tent's door and have opened up pandora's box. Enjoy the slippery slope because once you are on it, it will not stop until we have all been compromised. Judge a tree by the fruit it bears...not the label someone else has attatched to it. ...Oh, and by the way-Dont label me-I'm not an athiest Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I like the video idea...unfortunately I am computer/video/mp3/file-this n that illiterate: so I'll just have to be one of the "Idea Men". Just some thoughts off the top of my mind. Instead of one video why not multiple videos capturing each stage of the Z metamorphasis. Each video will show the entire phases from realizing your driveway or garage is empty to the purchase of a tow it home project from hell to a jackstand racing, test-n-tune, to full blow the doors off completion, all the way to the cruising scene and catching "the babe's" eyes: as well as the blow the competition's doors off scenes. This way you can use more than just one or two songs. Again not trying to overfill your plate...just ideas. Some songs that I can think of are: 1) Deep Purple: "Perfect Strangers" 2) Carl Orff's: Carmina Burana's "Oh Fortuna"...this is the same theme song on Playstation's John Madden's NFL (I think), and many movies use it when they want to imply intense focus/militant/gutteral/gothic type of a struggle ect., ect. 3) Van Halen: "Drop Dead Legs"..perfect for the cruise scene-show one/more gals giving the Z(s) a once over look/nod of appreciation. 4) Deep Purple: "Wasted Sunsets"..perfect for a Jackstand Racing scene. Movie Theme Songs you can take excerpt sound bites from: 1) City of Angels: "Univited" similar lyrics to Perfect Strangers just not as intense music 2) James Bond Theme 3) Jaws Theme 4) Scream: Trouble in Woodsboro's "Sidney's Lament"...this song is very Techno-Mechanical-Electrical sounding at the beginning 5) Star Wars: Darth Vader's Theme 6) T2 Terminator music 7) Close Encounters of 3rd Kind: "The Conversation"...this could mimic the auto's version of Dueling Banjo's as each car is tapping the excel pedal taunting each other as they are thinking about woup'n up on one another. 8) Clockwork Orange: "William Tell Overture"...the later part of the song For a comical scene referencing a Jackstand Racing scene, you could show a "Dr.Olds" type scenario. Anyone remember the late 1960's Dr.Old's commercials...guys w/lab coats implying some Frankenstien of a Car being mfg'd in a lab w/erie music in the background and Lab Test-tubes uzing smoke out of them. Cant wait for your video. Sounds like a great idea. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Does that mean..."No mod's to the [FACTORY] motor & suspension" or just no mods at all? If your answer is "no mods at all" then perhaps you should buy the RX7 w/the LS1 already in it....the devil is in the details is it not For an LS1 powered 2nd/3rd RX7's and videos, go to: http://www.hinsonsupercars.com 1) click on Project H7 at the left of the screen, 2) then click on Video Page at the lower right bottom of screen 3) then click on "Compilation Video"...I think this is a good video/sound clip of a LS1 powered 3rd Gen RX7 For info on the LS1 2nd gen Rx7's, which are dirt cheap w/a little mileage on them or bad engines...go to http://www.wrongmotor.com Sorry Mike-wasnt trying to hi-jack your thread. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Isnt banning a word metaphorically the same as book burning? Has Hitler and the Nazi regime returned? I dont believe in evolution yet I think anytime anyone tells me what I can or can not say is an encroachment into "the natural born right to free speech". I would never tell someone who did believe in evolution that they can not form their own opinion using their own vernacular. I remember when my last employer, a large insurance company, made an edict that we could no longer use the word Perp or Perpatrator because it had negative implications...WHAT Even tho just about every police report that came in on any claim you were investigating used the word Perp. Okay, I admit it-we certainly wouldnt want to offend the Perp for being a Perpatrator, now would we(?). Circular thinking never solves anything-it only confuses the issue. This political correctness crap is for the birds. The only education on any subject-is the full disclosure of any/all/both sides using the vernacular that best fits the subject. Next we will have to sign some sort of document where we agree with the Emperor (Do we still have those?) that we do not believe in this/that: and if we dont sign the document does this mean they will put me in the torture chamber or on a stretcher untill I agree to consent w/the MASTER? We shouldnt have to tip-toe around an issue simply because someone might perceive a subject as offensive. If we can ever get passed the "I'm Offended" mentaility, then we might actually be able to have intellectual conversations....as in open and uncoerced conversations with those that disagree. NEWS FLASH...NEWS FLASH...NEWS FLASH: "It's okay for someone to disagree." Equity in the law is mandatory. If you wont allow someone to disagree w/you then you, on the other hand, have no right to disagree w/them!...END OF NEWS FLASH...END OF NEWS FLASH.., One little encroachment of a natural born right always leads to bigger encroachments to other natural born rights. Pretty soon we will all be required to report to a reprogramming school to take a class on what is "acceptable -vs- unacceptable vernacular"...hello Orwell's 1984. I'm not upset-just bewildered that it appears the world is turning into a mass of snivling spineless cowards who wear their feelings on their sleeves. God help us all: oops I used the word "God" on a thread about evolution...am I aloud to do that...I wonder what my Junior Birdsman Handbook says about Political Correctness Diplomacy: oops-gotta put my beanie w/propeller on anytime I'm reading my handbook...wouldnt want to offend my Senior officers ya know. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I like the new cross member design...looks big and brauny and seems like it would make for a clean install. As for Danno's observation, well I am no Structural Engineer-so someone else would have to confirm/reject it as a proper way to mount the engine. Still..looks good-hope it works out for ya and keep the pictures comming. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Good to hear; so most of those problems would disappear with the LS1 swap I also like the look of the 5 series-it certainly wouldn't hurt if it received an LS1 V8. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Jay, I have no experience w/the BMW's but this swap also intrigues me as well. Out of curiosity-would you mind offering some insight as to what kind of "little problems" have been popping up on your car...or, better yet: what are some things to look out say if a guy were to begin looking for a used 3 series BMW. FWIW, I dont think these guys are gonna finish the LS1 BMW anytime soon-they started 9 months ago...blasted work schedules Anyway, any insight to inherent problems on the 3 series BMW would certainly be appreciated. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I dont know as I have no problem eating microwaved food. I was just making the connection w/how some folks think. I've come across a few people that go to great detail as to why they wont eat microwave food and in the middle of that sentance their cell phone rings..."Oh, excuse me, someone is calling me and I have to put this microwave beam to my head" kind of logic confounds me. When it comes to cell phones I will posture myself like Heavy Z and believe it is better to be safe than sorry. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I find it comical, sad really, that health minded people will NOT eat food if it is cooked in a microwave: yet those very same folks will not think twice about sticking a cell phone to their ears for hours on end. In the last few years I see kids w/cell phones in the Malls...yes of course the cell phone is glued to the side of their faces. I bet those same kids drink cokes for breakfast, lunch, supper-eat greasy fast foods for lunch & supper: and we wonder why America leads the world in medical problems? I guess healthiness takes a back seat to the status symbol of having a cell phone. I keep trying to get my family members w/cell phones to use an ear piece: no such luck thus far. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Since they are only 2800lbs I would say w/the LS1-the biggest problem, just like the V8Z's, will be that they are traction limited. Suspension mods and a larger tire footprint are definately required. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I think that car would confuse anyone looking at it. I'm confused to the point I dont know what category it belongs in: does it belong in Death Race 2000, Mad Max, or the next Fast and Furious film? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Has anyone seen this site: http://www.vorshlag.com/ls1bmw1.asp I came across it while looking for data on the LS1 engine. Pretty sweet once he finishes it. He plans on making a kit once completed. Unfortunately it appears just like the rest of us-their work schedule keeps getting in the way of their progress. Just think about it, having a stable of LS1 steeds in the garage...an LS1 Z for the weekend warrior as a sleeper and the LS1 BMW also as a sleeper and snob appeal. The biggest question would be, "which one to choose as your daily driver"? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Theoretically you could but to what end? Your example was about two engines-one tuned for HIGHER RPM PEAK POWR while the second was tuned for LOWER RPM PEAK POWER with the same SCR but different DCR's. If you took this approach your power output for the engine tuned for higher rpm peak power would be inefficient (mismatched components to the cam chosen-AKA: wasted money and time). You could manipulate the airflow velocity for both engines in order to obtain peak power at the same time...but the SCR's would have to differ otherwise one engine would be prone to inappropriate combustion problems at the higher rpm's. If you build an engine for higher rpms and you want that engine to reach max rpms quicker you dont do so by suffocating it w/a minimized SCR, rather you do so by gearing of the trans, differential & wheel/tire combo: otherwise why bother? HP is a function of how much torque occurs over time and distance and you wont get the maximum HP unless your engine is operating at maximum efficiencies: those efficiencies are: 1) VE%, 2) Mechanical Efficiencies 3) Thermal Efficiencies. As Efficiencies increase-so too does your tolerance for a higher SCR w/out fear of inappropriate combustion. You cant apply a simple linear number to DCR or SCR-it doesnt work that way: simply because they are a Ratio...they wont stand alone by themselves in a mathematical equation. DCR and SCR each has a working mathematical relationship to one another where Displacement has the final say-and therefore DCR nor SCR can not be mathematically separated into a simple linear/incremental/exponential number. .., I'm not sure that answered your question(?): did any of that make sence? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

To add to this statement, I would say that SCR's purpose is to correct the compromise in airflow velocity wherein that compromise to the pre-modified condition was brought about by your post-modified cam upgrade. As a result this new cam determines what your DCR is after being insctalled, and it is the DCR that determines to what degree you will have to alter your SCR....for the sole purpose of correcting said airflow velocity: at whatever specific peak rpm your level of performance requires. BobL: "A question for you. It seems that DCR is based on two ideas: First that no compression can take place when the intake valve is open and, second, that if the intake valve is open at all, it is considered open." Bob, I would say there is one more issue that immediately comes to my mind-and that is: DCR also involves "The Position" of the piston within the cylinder at the moment in time that corresponds with the IVC...this is where the DCR 3D Cylinder will encroach on the SCR 3D Cylinder. With a cam upgrade utlizing a narrower LSA and longer Duration-the result is a minimizing of your SCR and requires a correction to your pre-mod SCR in order to correct that compromise in said airflow velocity to better maximize efficiency that matches your post-mod DCR. To some-this may sound like circular reasoning, but it is not. As far as your Two Engine Example: I would suggest not basing it on two engines w/the same SCR and different DCR's, rather I would say it was just the opposite. In that two engines could have the same DCR but their SCR's would differ simply because one was tuned for high rpm while the other was tuned for lower rpm. If their SCR's are identical then one of those two engines have components that are mismatched: simply because an engine built for peak high rpms will have ports that are larger than an engine built for peak low rpms. I think because all of us grew up reading perf.mag's-which will never utter the "Dynamic CR" words and always concentrate on SCR-then it is hard to grasp the issue that DCR should actually be considered first yet it is your DCR that determines your optimum SCR. Your "Total Chamber Volume" is the mathematical variable that when plugged into the CR formula will determine what level of performance is possible and which engine components should be used. The DCR & SCR are not means to end all: they are merely tools. The final performance of an engine is a total package and not based merely on DCR or SCR (hence your mentioning VE%): they are pretty important tools but not the only tools. Remember that DCR & SCR are both "Compression Ratios"...they are not linear numbers. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Now this is a very well documented modification: I'm not proficient in the welding dept but other than time consuming this modification appears to be rather straight forward. After reading http://zcar.netdojo.com/steering.htm the only thing that I would question, and again this is because I'm no welder, are the tie rod ends being cut and then rewelded. My question to all you welders out there...is this risk free? Is it really safe to cut the tie rod ends and then reweld them? Can a home jobber really do a sufficient enough of a reweld to remove the risk of said weld ever breaking? Any comments to confirming/removing my concerns would be most appreciative. The reason for my concern is that if I ever do the V8 swap I will definately like to do this mod...providing that cutting and rewelding the tie rods really is a safe thing to do. Kevin, (Yea,Still an non-power steering Inliner)

Hope you are taking plenty of pic's and will be posting them soon! Good to hear your progress...bet you cant wait for that fateful "Start Up" day! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Nic, I dont want to answer for Grumpy since you addressed him-but allow me if you will to throw this out at you. The best aid I found when attempting to understand the cam and cam vernacular was in a book: "The Best of Hotrod: High Performance Camshafts" Vol.11 Published by CarTech, w/a Copywrite date of 2000 ISBN# 1-884089-50-X I read this book at least a dozen times or so: somewhere around the 5th or 6th time the underlying dynamics began to actually stick in my brain. As far as LSA, it is merely the mathematical average of your Lobe Center Angles. This means that your Exhaust Lobe Center when added to your Intake Center Line and divided by 2 will equal your LSA. Your 4 major cam spec's/timing events are: 1) Exhaust Valve Open...EVO 2) Exhaust Valve Close...EVC 3) Intake Valve Open......IVO 4) Intake Valve Close......IVC *NOTE: there are subtle nuances that occur within these four cam specs but are not as important if all we are doing is trying to understand LSA. Because of the fact that our cam timing events are timed to the crankshaft when you read of a cam event such as 35* IVO your mind should immediately recognize that this degree point is a measurment of Crankshaft rotation within the Intake Stroke. Our car engines are 4 stroke engines, the four strokes are: 1) Intake............180*'s 2) Compression...180*'s 3) Combustion....180*'s 4) Exhaust..........180*'s Each stroke of our engine consumes 180*'s of Crank Rotation and each cam event will be slated specifically for one of those 4 strokes. Yet the Cam Timing Event listed will actually begin on the preceding stroke. Such as, if you read of an 35* IVO then you should realize that the IVO actually begins just prior to the Intake Stroke. The stroke that precedes the Intake Stroke is the Exhaust Stroke: hence-the IVO will actually begin on the end of the Exhaust Stroke....this is where TDC Overlap occurs. W/out going into detail on the other strokes you get the picture, each cam timing event, which is slated specifically for one particular stroke of the engine and not any other, actually begins at the end of the previous stroke. Now, back to LSA. LSA is the measurment of how much Crank Rotation takes place from the point your camshaft reaches your Exhaust Lobe Center (peak lift), where the LSA measurement begins, up to the cam position of Intake Lobe Center (peak lift). How you install your cam: 1) Advanced 2) Straight Up 3) Retarded .., will determine if your peak tq/hp will occur sooner, on time, or late based on how you install said cam. You have heard or read where a cam mfg will grind their cam 4* advanced to aid in negating timing chain stretch: yes/no? What this means is that they have ground their Intake Lobe Center 4* advanced. So if that cam mfg lists their cam with an 110* LSA and it was ground 4* advanced-then our Lobe Centers will be: 110* - 4* = 106* .., and their Exhaust Lobe Center will be: 110* + 4* = 114* Add the two and then divide by 2 and you will have your mathematical average...which represents your LSA: (106* + 114*) / 2 = LSA 220* / 2 = 110* LSA A wider LSA w/a shorter duration will offer a broader power band where just the opposite, a narrower LSA w/a longer duration will make for a peakier power band whose peak rpm is more rpm specific. The issues of LSA, Lift and Duration determine the idle-ability/intensity/revability of your engine. Get the Best of Hotrod book and read it over and over until you grasp the issues. As you read that book AND the sites Grumpy offered-you need to constantly ask yourself, "How does what I am reading effect airflow velocity?" Most of this info can be found in the sites that Grumpy listed...but you should also take a look at the book as IMHO I found it to be invaluable. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

MikeZ: Oooh maaaaan...now the pressure is on I admit the V8Z swap has not been on the top of the list; yet I am committed to doing it sometime before I die (lol), which is why I have pushed myself so hard in to researching what makes the engine tick. At least this way-when I do make the decision to actually doing it-I wont have to hesitate in making my component decisions. Also must admit-the LS1 swap appears to be the way to go...its looking very intriguing w/every new day. Namz, If you want info on the body mods you may find more info in the "body and kits" forum. Kevin, (Yes MikeZ, I'm still an Inliner)

This is kind've a personal thing. I like the 2+2, my Z is a 2+2 and I chose it specificall with the intention (one of these days) to put a V8 in it. I like the fact that the 2+2 offers a longer wheelbase and is built slightly heavier-duty than the coupe...should handle the extra power of the V8 better than the coupe. Keep in mind tho, when you put an engine in the Z whose power output is twice to three times that of a stock inliner and hammer it alot: it really isnt going to matter too much as you will tear up the coupe or the 2+2 unless you support the body w/some kind of a cage. I personally like the 2+2...so I guess it just really boils down to what you like personally. Oh yea, the back seat of the 2+2 makes it nice when the little nephews/nieces come to visit and the little nephew is a car guy -you can easily set them in the back. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)