Kevin Shasteen

Good Luck! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I herrrrd dat! If your main concern is a daily driver then you need the dual...and with your engine you still need to up your rear diff w/3.7-3.9's. If your main concern is maximum WOT performance then keep the single and up your gearing in the 3.9 to 4.11's to compliment your engine's peak power rpms in the 4500-6500 rpm range as grumpy suggested. Maximum port efficiency is the goal. You cant obtain this maximum airflow velocity in your ports, which leads to maximum cylinder filling, if your airflow is stalling due to off the line bogging due to mismatched gearing. If you want your engine to reach its full race potential then you have to swap those gears for something which parallels the car's intended level of performance. Right now you have an engine that wants to roar while the gearing in your differential is mismatched to your engine and causes the car to think it is still a daily driver. You drivetrain is confused. It doesnt know if it is a race car or a grocery getter. Unfortunately slumbering port pressures at low rpm's are the victim..and this compromises your engine's full potential. Swap them gears and your tiger will roar once again! QUESTION: What is your engine's peak rpm and at what rpm do you shift to a higher gear when racing? What size rear tires are you running? What transmission gears are you running? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I've found that slapping Japanese go fast stickers on the fenders - installing hub caps, curb finders, rear aluminum air dam, and a tin can exhaust extension are great Anti-Theft devices. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Congrats...now the fun part of testing-n-tuning and R&D come in to play. That first road kill is calling your name! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Mike. The performance mags always talk about their factory GMPP LS1's and the dyno runs they make to get a baseline tq/hp prior to making any mods, yet they never give an illustration of that factory original Dyno run...frustrating at times. Thanks again. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The metamophisis has begun: the speed demon from within is on the rise. Thanks for clearifying your car's symtom. Are you using the factory harmonic balancer? Your engine was a swap from the donor to the recipient and not a performance build from ground up correct? I bet ya it simply needs the rotating assembly balanced. Good luck and I Hope you figure it out. I also hope to make to Ennis this year to meet you and a few of the other HybridZ members. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike, I hate to ask this, but I too have been looking for some real LS1 basically bone stock dyno numbers. Would it be too much trouble to ask if you could post the entire dyno numbers including VE% numbers(?), perhaps in 300rpm increments? I would greatly appreciate it. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The Fast intake definately needs more cubes and better breathing heads. Mike....the 427 stroker and the AFR's are calling you out! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Phantom, What do you mean, "It is a Speed Related Issue?" Are you referring to the Tires or Suspension/Steering or possibly U-Joints? Speed Related: is that not what drivetrain misalignments are? It's been my experience as speed increases the frequency harmonics also increase up to a certain point: beyond that rpm point the vibration will go away. Just curious as to what you call a speed issue...anytime I hear or read of a new symtom description I always like to know what people are talking about: it helps me learn from other peoples experiences. Good to know you have 7k on the engine w/o problems..., keep-on keepn-on. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea I saw that article also-good information. I ended up buying the Popular Hot Rodding magazine with the LS1 Camshaft comparison article. I'm sure before the month ends I will probably buy the CHP mag as well. I'm soooo out of control when it comes to buying mags and how to books. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

yea, congrats-perhpas paradigms are changing; slowly but surely. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

good links grumpy. FYI: For all who are reading these links you need to realize that many a time, as in the case of the next to last link that Grumpy posted: the next to last "Hot Rod" link, an author will confuse the term "Dynamic Compression" with the term "Dynamic Compression Ratio". The two terms are mutually exclusive: they are related but they are not identifying the same fundamentals. Compression can be synonymous with Cylinder Pressure therefore Dynamic Compression is a reference to the usable Cylinder Pressure after the Intake Valve Closing (IVC) and is measured with a pressure gauage; whereas, the term Dynamic Compression Ratio is not a psi...it is a ratio. You can measure the psi output on a Pressure Gauge but you can not measure a Ratio on a guage. The Dynamic or Static Compression Ratio is indicative of a mathematical relationship between one measurement of volume to the second measurement of volume: in the case of a Compression Ratio this measured relationship is between the "Cylinder Volume + Total Combustion Chamber" and the "Total Combustion Chamber". This relationship is expressed in the compression ratio formula: (Cyl. Volume + Total Chamber Vol) / Total Chamber Vol = SCR while the formula for calculating the DCR is: (Cyl. Vol after IVC + Total Chamb Vol) / Total Chamb Vol = DCR I see the magazines confusing this vernacular all the time: there is a difference...a pressure is not a ratio and a ratio is not a pressure. Combine the two in the correct equation and you can calculate Cylinder Pressures but the two terms are not one in the same. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Terry, Are you only wanting to know the size of the valve reliefs-or are you wanting confirmation on your DCR calculations? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Venting the under hood temp air out is one of the ways in maximizing your engine's efficiencies (output). Now you see why it is even more important to use a K&N type air intake system: otherwise your engine is breathing in hot under hood air-not good. Datsun's 280z hood vents are not that efficient-they are more/less a compromise that worked-they still dont work that great but they are better than nothing. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Came across this by accident and thought some of you might be interested. If the link becomes broken for whatever reason just do an internet search for "cfm swirl airflow bench" and you should find the site. http://www.performancetrends.com/PDFs/EZ%20Flow%20w%20Black%20Box.pdf Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Has anyone pucrhased or received this months Popular Hot Rodding Magazine yet? While at the magazine rack I noticed, looking thru the plastic sealed protection sleave, that the PHR mag indicated they dyno tested 3 LS1 Cams. Can anyone here who has that magazine give those cam spec's and which one gave the best tq/hp? I have too many mag's and didnt want to buy another one simply to obtain 1 article-I've done this too much lately. Thanks in advance. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sorry iskone-but I have no knowledge or experience to pass along on the 230cc heads. I will say this though, you are getting in the "Dedicated Race Engine" cylinder head territory with the 230cc sized ports. Port Sizing for a Typical Small Block upto 165cc = Mild Sized Ports also for Smaller Cubic Inch Displacements 165 - 195 = Moderate Sized Ports; H/O Street for mid Displacements 195 on up = Maxed out Sized Ports: H/O Street and Dedicated Racing for Larger Displacements Usually the 230cc heads will be found on 406 cu inch engines & up. Where is the line drawn between the point of "Delaying The Airflow Velocity" at early rpm, such as in a light Z car, -vs- suffocating your engine at low rpm due to too little CFM caused by cylinder head/carb/cam combo that is mismatched? Without looking at someone else's documentation all we can do is guess. Keep in mind the only real way to know if your 230cc heads are too big for a 383 V8 is if we had the Airflow CFM at lower rpm's and then factor them into our DCR process. Remember-when you work out your DCR to match your SCR: all you have done is made a "Mechanical Connection"...and this is a great start yet it is not the only item you have to nail down when building a performance engine: as you have not factored in the Volumetric Efficiencies of that engine. This is what I elluded to in an earlier post about DD2000. That engine sim "ASSUMES" your port pressures, ergo-Cylinder Pressures, are always optimum. Yet, in the real world, once your parts combinations begin to creep upon and cross the line of streetability-the reality is that your Port Pressures, ergo-Cylinder Pressures, will not be optimum at lower rpms. When building an engine for maximum performance, whatever your level of performance is, its also good to realize that your actual VE% can fall, at idle, to 20% or 30% its actual displacement: this would put your engine's DCR in the 3.0:1 DCR range. This means that your 383 is breathing like an 81 cu in V8. So be careful about using DD2000 when looking at 230cc heads for a street engine. As I said earlier I have no hands on experience with these heads nor have I read up on them when being utilized in an engine build. Surely someone here has used those heads before and will have some input for clearification. Perhaps you might want to start a new thread and title it "210 or 230cc Heads?" then you will get a better response. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Anyone else in the mood for some Finger Food besides me? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sorry, your phrase "If there is no interaction" was ambiguous-besides I never took quantum theory-so even if it was specific it probably would have gone right over my head anyway Just curious-since it has been probably 25 years since I last watched Lets Make A Deal...did anyone ever get the car on the first guess? Because I dont really remember anyone ever getting the "Car" on the first guess. If I am remembering correctly-which I probably am not; would this not suggest some hanky panky going on behind the curtains insuring that the first guess, the majority of the time, would not be the correct guess? Just wondering since its been so long ago that I last watched that show: did anyone ever guess the correct door the first time...and how often was the correct door actually chosen over the span of the lifetime of the show? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The good point is that atleast he was pointing the gun downward. The stupidity of this is a gun safety class of 50+ adults and kids (?). Gun safety should be one-on-one not in hordes...too big of a distractioin! Guns are not toys and he/they (the DEA) had no business giving a gun safety class to more than a few people at a time. I bet his leg isnt hurting half as much as his ego will be when he returns to work! Do you think this will go on his record?. I wonder if this will hinder his climbing the DEA corp. latter. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

(sorry for the double post-I hate it when I accidently do this) Anywah, one other issue I have with the Dart Pro 1 heads on this engine going into a Z is the port size is only 180cc. This size port will cause your airflow velocity to max out early in the rpm range. In a heavy car such as a 1970 Impalla this is not a concern; yet, in a light weight Z too much torque too soon will make your car severely traction limited. Perhaps you may want to think about cylinder heads with larger ports in the 195-220cc range. This will delay the peak airflow velocity inside your ports which also delays maximum torque coming on the cam too soon....hopefully long enough that your wheel spin is minimum. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

10.0:1 with Cast Iron Heads will be flirting with Detonation on a high temp-high humid day. Any reason why you have chosen this over aluminum heads? Before you decide on an intake manifold you need to keep in mind that DD "ASSUMES" your internal port pressures are optimum. In the real world your port pressures are interacting with the atmospheric pressurs and too what degree your engine is throttled: so optimum port pressure on an engine sim such as DD may not translate into the real world. An 8.25:1 DCR will get you excellant torque if your Volumetric Efficiencies are moderately optimum. I think the cam Grumpy has suggested is a good one too-as far as which Intake Manifold you need: I would simply say that we as tuners spend thousands of dollars on our engines and then we decide to approach the cam or intake manifold as if there is only one possible choice: as in the "Perfect Cam" or the "Perfect Intake Manifold". When in reality our choice is nothing more than a choice. What I'm trying to say is to not lock yourself into just one intake manifold when manifolds sell for $100 to $300 as this amount of cash is miniscule when compared to how much we have already spent in components as well as time. Experiment with multiple manifolds till your butt O'meter likes one manifold over the other. Other than that I think you, the others are looking at a real torquer. a 383 touting 10.0:1 SCR with a 7.8:1 DCR will kick but. (Still not sure about the 10.0:1 SCR with Iron Heads)....is this going to be your daily driver? Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Ahh, I was wondering when this issue would arise. All the conspiracy nuts salute you-myself included. The ideas on the stats given, prior to your statement, never assumed the game was rigged. So if the game is rigged then the stats are non-statistical and all odds are a wash. Sure the idea of the game being rigged is crazy-but it would not be the first time a tv game show was rigged: therefore the idea that the game is rigged has to be a legitimate possibility. There is only so far logistics can take you-at some point in time the human factor of emotion has to "Make a Decision"...conspiracy or no conspiracy eventually you will have to make a choice. I agree in that if the game is not rigged then anytime you can remove one of the odds your chances of being right will improve. I never took stats-perhaps I should've becasue I always enjoy watching a thought process being worked out. If I had taken statistics the odds are high in that I never would have used them in my choice of occupation : so no harm no foul. 2bornot2b? I think that is the real question. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

...., and that would be the boss's wife! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)