Kevin Shasteen

Mon280, Thanks for the pic's. Seems like there is more than one way to skin a cat: as far as the LS1 motor mounts are concerned. Phantom, I'ld also be interested in seeing how "John's Cars" motor mounts look: please post them. Thnx in advance. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Excellant compilation GrumpyV. This needs to be a sticky(!), so grumpy doesnt have to compile this the next time the issue comes up in another thread. The only thing I could add to the vast amount of knowledge in the above listed liks is that everyoe of us needs to learn to recongnize patterns. It isnt that difficult w/a little perseverance. When you, myself or anyone, finds themselves reading an article on an engine build and this engine build then gives a dyno, we need to learn to recognize patterns. We need to understand what effects airflow velocity: a) Volume, Temperature, c) Pressure. With each item listed below we need to ask the question, "How do we as tuners effect the airflow velocity w/said modifications?" So when you are reading that article: make a mental note as to what components they used and what was the outcome. 1) Intake Manifold (Fuel Delivery): how is low rpm vacuum effected by cam specs, what was the peak rpm 2) Cam Spec's utilized, LSA, LCA, Duration, Lift: how did this cam spec alter the inital dyno characteristics w/Cyl.Head airflow: as wherein the rpm range does the peak tq/hp surface. 3) Cyl.Heads...port sizing, incremental valve lift/valve size w/airflow numbers 4) Dynamic Compression Ratio = Optimum Static Compression Ratio 5) How does all this change w/metalurgy...cast iron -vs- alum? 6) Exhaust Manifold/Pipes *NOTE: the above 6 items will be effected by changes in Displacement. **NOTE: Reference to #4...anyone wanting to understand Dynamic Comp.Ratio should check out Ed Staffel's book, ISBN# 1-884089-20-8 "How to Build Max Performance Chevy Rat Motors: Modify Big Block Chevys: hotrodding Big Block Chevys" page 108, 112-113 Excellant compilation GrumpyV Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Looking good.., I want one, I want one! Hey, tell your wife to stop putting her tools on your fenders-it'll scratch the paint (just kidding) Did you take pic's of the motor mounts-and do the mimic the mounts of those here on the site that have already made the LS1 swap? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Your small oval "Truck/Peanut" port cyl.heads are perfect performers as long as you dont wish to exceed the 5k rpms. Not knowing your Piston Compression Height or your Total Chamber Volume cc's everything here on out is just an assumption. Let us say your Total Chamber Volume cc's amounted to 130cc. Since you mentioned earlier this is a 454 .030 over then we are looking at a 460 BBC. Take your 460 / 8 cylinders 460 / 8 = 57.5 cu. in Now multiply this by 16.387 to get cylinder displacement in cc's 57.5 x 16.387 = 942.25 cc Now, back to your assumed 130 cc Total Chamber Volume. Let us say you want your Dynamic Compresion Ratio to be 8.0:1; what you do is deduct 1 full unit of compression from the 8.0:1 and then multiply that by your Total Chamber Volume...like so: 130 x (8.0 - 1.0 ) = 910 cc This will represent your Cylinder Displacement after the IVC has taken place. The next step would be to convert your Cyl.Displ. after IVC to a lobe duration. We do this by dividing your Cyl.Displ. after IVC by your actual Cylinder Displacement of 942.25 910 / 942.25 = .965 If you look at a Crank Angle Chart for a 454 w/stock 4" stroke and stock Piston Compression Height-you will see that the .965 corresponds to a cam lobe duration of only 26* IVC ABDC. This is not a performance cam in anyway shape or form: and a cam I hope you wouldnt want. I think the cam you are looking at would be perfect for low rpm tq-hopefully someone else w/more experience in BBC's will chime in. What most folks miss is that as cylinder displacement increases so too does that engine's ability to utilize a cam w/a longer duration w/out harmful side effects....hence the ole saying, "There's no replacement for displacment". I would say your secret to power, regardless of rpm range, is in the cylinder head. So if you want power down low, make sure your cyl.head's intake ports are upper middle of the road but not quite in the "Street/Strip" range as far as port sizing goes. This will compliment your 9.12:1 SCR. BBC Cyl.Head Port sizes: 1) Small = 225-295cc 2) Medium = 295-325cc 3) Large = 325-460cc...and on You will also want your Intake Manifold Port's Cross Sectional Volume to be slightly less than your Cyl.Head Port's Cross Sectional Volume as this will ensure high airflow velocity at lower rpms which equates to peak torque in the 2500-3500 rpm range. Make sure your cam's LSA (Lobe Separation Angle) resembles that of a Tow Truck....hence, you need to keep the Overlap to a minimum. This also ensures high cyl.pressure at lower rpms as a minimal of Cyl.Press. bleed off occurs, of which also equates to peak tq/hp at lower rpm's. Controlling Airflow Velocity is the key to knowing where in the RPM range your tq/hp will surface and understanding how Displacement effects airflow velocity is the key to hitting your projected taget in the bulls-eye. Hoped my .02c's worth helped....I still think someone more familiar w/BBC's needs to chime in. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Do you have a One-Wire Alternator set up; and possibly set up to where your voltage drop to the wiring harness is not adequately represented? What electrical loads does your car experience? A/C? Head/Tail lights, High Watt Stereo, Eng/Radiator Fan(s), A/C Heater Fan Motor Upgrade...ect, ect, and have you made the needed changes to run those electrical components. Perhaps these possibilities contribute to low voltage readings...or your alternator may just be on its way out. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I just commented about this in the "LS1/Jeromio's eng swap" thread in this same forum. If you want a step by step pictures at what is involved you should check out the sites that have already been listed in the posts above and also check out Jeromio's site-full of pictures and explanations of those pictures. http://240z.jeromio.com/motorswap If/when I get the chance to swap motors I will definately go the way of the LS1: IMHO it is an excellant engine, you get EFI, the latest in eng tech, tons of F & Y bodies around w/either standard or manual trannies...oh yea, and it's Alluminum Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just came across Jeromio's LS1 eng swap into 1st Gen Z while surfing thru LS1tech.com in the "Conversions and Hybrids" forum, "Conversion folks please list your conversion in here" thread. All his impressive fabricating is well documented on his site. I'm sure there are a few others who have documented their LS1 swap but I came across on LS1tech.com by accident/recognized his name and checked out his site at: http://240z.jeromio.com/motorswap Very well done Jeromio! FWIW...on the picture where your dash was out and you decided to completely rewire your car, "I COULD FEEL YOUR PAIN" as I hate removing dashes and instrument clusters. The wires hanging everywhere kind've gives you the "What Have I Got Myself Into" syndrome. Anyway-nice job on your swap. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Back when I had my first Z, a 73 240z, everytime I left it w/a shop I could always tell someone had hot rodded it...or as you say, simply did not respect the paint or body-or they forgot to tighten a bolt, ect. This was the reason I learned to work on my own cars: both small jobs and large jobs. Have you checked into prices for a storage facility? You could split rent for a storage facility large enough to work on your car or your friend's car of whom you were splitting the monthly rent with....if you trust your friends that is. If you go this route make sure you know your friend your are splitting the rent with and you should check into getting coverage for theft-from the rental people: and dont skimp on you pad lock! Make sure you buy one of those $100 pad locks...not a simple $5 lock: the cheaper locks are extemely easy to cut and even easier to pick if you know how. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Kevin' date=' you may have to save them to your personal picture gallery and have HybridZ host them (they have to be hosted by [i']some[/i] server in order to be visible to everyone. Never use your own server... Davy Thanks Davy for the heads up....looks like I have to bother my brother again w/another computer prob (he's an IT Tech), certainly he can explain to me what you just said. HEY, he owes me for all the times I repaired his car prior to him being able to afford a nicer one: looks like I get to call in another marker Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for the pic's. When/if I ever get to do the V8 swap I'ld prefer to keep the A/C in the same position as the inliner...low driver's side of the engine; now I have an idea of how to do it. Thnx. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If someone will walk me thru the process I now have digital pictures of how my Stereo Head Unit was mounted and they are saved to file, I just dont know how to install them in a BB thread/post type forum. Also, in your instructions explain how to minimize/maximize the size of the pictures so they are not too large or too small once posted. Thanks. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)[/img]

The power source for the headlights definately go to the combo switch first, then when the combo switch's headlight switch is turned on-your headlamp fuse should be powered. If you are not getting bat+ 12volts to your head light switch feed wire then your fuse box headlamp circuit will also be dead (no voltage) when the switch is turned on. You definately need to obtain a wiring schematic of your car. I dont know how easy it is to follow the Haynes, Motors, or Chilton manual's diagrams but that would be the first step: obtain the manual, a factory manual is always best) and identify the wiring circuit-then begin your tracing and always make sure your ground wires are making a good contact. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Perhaps that is the understatement of the year: very nice engine bay; the picture refelcts all those hours: nice! You wouldnt also happen to have a picture of the A/C Bracket you used to mount the A/C compressor to your engine...would you

The bulbs have a wattage (wattage-is that even a word? ) 3.5 and their SAE trade# is 57X. Keep in mind these bulbs are not the type of bulb that you push in and turn: as they have no pins on the sides of the bulb to lock in to the female recepticle. Rather these bulbs are simply the push-in type that fit snugly into their twist turn recepticle; these recepticles dont have any wires going in or leading out of them-and can be removed from the gauge pods w/o disconnecting the gauge wiring....dont know if this is making any since-you really have to know what I'm talking about to understand. If what I have said is not making since then you really need to remove the bulb(s) that you are planning on rpl and take them to an auto parts store to ensure the newer bulbs you buy are like/kind/quality to those you are rpl. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/Sup Dog as I have the book you are looking for and you will get far more info towards your Z than you will get in that book as far as your Z is concerned. There are some really resourceful brakes/suspension/steering guys who are members of Hybridz-basically anything you can ask is/has already been covered. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Very sweet. I've seen some of these cars w/blown eng's going fairly cheep: basically the cost of this swap is mostly the eng/trans...providing you obtain the car whose eng was blown (yes/no?) I'm definately planning on getting your manual sooner or later, hopefully sooner. Very nicely done-congrats 8) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I had the overwhelming desire to get a tube of silicone out of my toolbox, and while I was at it; to also rotate my tires? Rotate Tires comment....(old Tim Conway/Carol Burnette office skit w/Carol Burnette as Miss.Hawiggins, the secretary, and Tim Conway as her Boss). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Nic, Thanks for the headsup...BTW, the fuse was not actually blown-my bad for giving an incorrect description. There was only one bad fuse and it was actually broken dead center, w/out any burn marks; so when circumstances were just right the two ends would actually touch and complete the circuit while other times they would not touch. On a 78z wiring schematic the three accessory circuits feed thru the ignition relay...so when my ignition relay heated up those three circuits would also go dead. .., as Kevin responds to Dan's comment with an exteme "In-bred, bonified, countrified, southern red-neck, hill billy accent, "I Herrd'at"! Kevin, (Yea, Yea, Yea, I know-I'm still an Inliner)

Update (almost forgot about this one) So, for posterity sake-in case anyone else has the same problems I had I will post the answer to this riddle. I finally had time to really do some diagnostics on the ole Z. What I found was a few bad fuses. They were really tricky as they looked good even on close inspection they looked fine. At times the car would start perfect-then at other times nothing-w/a turn of the ignition switch there was nothing, not even a click: no gauges no nothing. All three of the "Accessories" fuse box circuits were dead. Wait over night and in the morning when I would try it again the car would either start or I would hear a clicking sound. I found one of these fuses had broken in the middle of the bus fuse yet was not burned-so at times I was getting power to my gauges. Rpl the fuses and the gauges worked yet the clicking at the fuse box continued. Long story short-my Ignition Relay was getting hot. So, in the summer heat my car would start on a cool morning yet once the relay heated up it was dead until it had a chance to cool down. When winter rolled around the relay would work fine as long as it didnt get hot. Once it began getting hot or almost too hot it would click upon my attempt to start my car. So, rpl Ignition Relay and the defective fuses and all is well. Couldnt stop myself while in diagnostic mode my map light now works as well as my engine room light, door jam switches/cockpit light...and discovered my rear window Defooger Relay is also toast. I am a happy camper now-my Z is no longer sick...happy Z-happy little Z: it now wags its tale when I approach. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Hope everyone's okay. Unfortunately earthquakes dont even get mentioned these days unless they hit 6.0 or higher. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My 78 280z Service Manual claims a high idle results from a: 1) Dragging Accelerator Linkage 2) Defective BCDD system 3) Malfunctioning Air Regulator STRAIGHT FROM MY SERVICE MANUAL, "Quote/Unquote" The BCDD system stands for Boost Controlled Deceleration Device. Its purpose is to reduce HC emissions emitted during coasting. The BCDD, installed under the throttle chamber as a part of it, supplies addt'l air to the intake manifold during coasting to maintain vacuum at the proper operating pressure. There are two diaphragms in the device unit. Diaphragm I detects the manifold vacuum and makes the Vacuum Control Valve open when the vacuum exceeds the operating pressure. Diaphragm II operates the Air Control Valve according to the vacuum transmitted throught the Vacuum Air Control Valve. The Air Control Valve regulates the amount of addt'l air so that the manifold vacuum can be kept at the porper operating pressure. On California models, the operating pressure changes depending on altitude; thus, diaphragm II and control valve operations are adjusted automatically in coincedence with the altitude at which the vehicle is being driven. On Manual Trannys models this system consists of a BCDD, Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve, Speed Detecting Switch, and Ampliphier. On Auto Trannys models this system consists of a BCDD, Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve, and the Inhibitor Switch and Inhibitor Relay. The BCDD can not be disassembled and rebuilt-if it is defective it must be rpl as an assembly. If you dont have the BIG/THICK 1985 280z Service Manual you really need to purchase one; as it will advice you on how to test the components which effects the BCDD system. Hope this helps. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Are you using the 83's Distributor and Ignition system...if so, Whose car's ignition system are you using...the 83's or the 72's? Not to familiar w/the 72 circutry. I seem to remember it has a dual points distributor. That is about all I remember from when I owned a 73 umpteen years ago. Does the 72 electrical system have an ignition module or ignition relay(?) if so I would check those areas first along w/confirming your ignition switch (the thing activated when the key is turned on) is getting fire. I know the 280's source and feed/source wires to the circuit were the majority of times either larger white wires are white w/a red stripe. Sounds like you need to give us a few more details-like, how much of the old car's wiring still remains and how much of the newer car's wiring did you splice in to the old car. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Found a good site w/some good info on wiring upgraded alternators in cars they didnt initially come in: specifically the one wire -vs- three wire system along w/its pro's & con's. http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/electrical/articles.html The articles that inspired this posting are found on that site and they are: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml Those of you using a one wire set up to your high amp alt on the car's original old wiring system may be surprised to find that your wiring system isnt getting all the juice you think it is: anyway, read for yourselves and you be the judge. I found the site very informative. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)