Kevin Shasteen

I forgot to add the angle of approach that is discussed in the CD-Book. Yes it is about DCR but topics go above and beyond just DCR, such as: 1) What is a Static Compression Ratio, how is it calculated, and what is its purpose? 2) What is a Dynamic Compression Ratio, how is it calculated, and what is its purpose? 3) How do you know which Cylinder Head Intake Port Volume is correct for your engine? 4) At what point does streetable torque get exchanged for highr rpm horsepower? 5) What is the performance connection between Cylinder Displacement and Cam Duration? 6) How would you know if you over built, under built, or built your engine just right? 7) What is a Slider Crank Mechanism and how is it applied to your compression ratios? 8) What is a Crank Angle Chart and how is it applied when building a performance engine? 9) At what point will any performance engine become unstreetable? 10) How do you know when too much power is too much? 11) I also included my insight from working with an Insurance Company for 12 years into a chapter entitled, "Close Encouters of the Insurance Kind" where I instruct the reader on what goes on behind the scenes, what to expect from an adjuster, and how to negotiate with that adjuster. Those are the topics. I really am pleased with how the book turned out (I may be biased - but I really believe anyone who wants to understand the basics of airflow velocity and how port pressure and cylinder pressures are effected by Displacement, Cam Duration, Static Compression Ratio, and RPMs will get a lot of the book. Kevin, (Yea, Still an Inliner)

DCR Book and Performance Calculators on CD-ROM is being advertised in the "Non-Tech Forum". I explain what's on the disk in that forum so I wont restate it here. If you are interested inunderstanding Compression Ratios, Port Pressures and Cylinder Pressures then you should purchase this CD-ROM. Check it out and PM (personal message) me if you have any questions. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Okay boys and girls I have finally finished this long awaited project. Price: $15 + S&H Rebate: $3 from each purchase goes back to Superdan for Hybridz Website Support. Format: MS Windows 2000 XP My Address: Kevin Shasteen c/o 1975 CR 1025 Ravenna, Texas 75476 NOTE: Dont forget to offer a day time phone# I can reach you with incase of a mix up or emergency. The book is advertised in HybridZ's classifieds link to the left and will be found in the "Book / Technical" forum. Here is the link. I dont know if it will allow us to access it from this forum. http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=86&de=554 At the bottom of this add you will find a link that reads, "Ask a Question". This will allow you to PM (Personal Message) me if you have any questions. Many of you know I am still an Inliner - well I am still an inliner because I have been working on this CD-Book for three years as time allowed. So, Dan Juday-quit hounding me (lol). And now the CD-Book is done. In the classified add I explain what is on the CD-ROM yet the classified add format wont allow spacing-so it is rather hard to read. What you get: 1) the "Performance Engine Building: Airflow Basics You Really Need to Know" book just over 300 pages. It approaches the DCR subject from the veiw point of a beginner: so the book is in layman's terms. I also touch on airflow velocity math and how to choose cylinder heads. Included are CAD pictures to explain important points. 2) Over 250 Crank Angle Charts I catalogued through the years while researching the DCR issues. 3) 7 Performance Calculators a) Crank Angle Chart Calculators - this will allow you to create your own Crank Angle Charts if you dont find your engine in the "Crank Angle Chart" file. All that is required to create a chart is the Block Deck Height, Piston Compression Height, Con. Rod. Length, and Crankshaft Stroke. All numbers will transfer onto a printable chart. Two DCR to SCR calculators. One allows the user to calculate individual IVC values from any Crank Angle Chart to determine which DCR is correct for your engine. The second Calculator actually breaks down the Total Chamber Volume and Cylinder Displacement based on your IVC data input from your Crank Angle Chart. c) BMEP Tq to HP Calculator. This allows you to take any TQ and RPM numbers from any dyno and then transfers that number to Cylinder Pressure. This allows the end user to see the effects your Cam Duration, Cylinder Displacement, Engine RPM, and SCR has on Cylinder Pressures. This calculator allows up to 27 different rpm and torque inputs. ***This is a very valuable tool if you wish to learn to recognize patterns*** d) Turbocharger and Intercooler Calculator. This calculator takes the typical equations you will find in any turbocharger book and simplifies the process. All you have to input are engine parameters like bore, stroke, VE%, Turbo efficiency, IC efficiency ect. The resulting numbers are transferred onto a printable chart that will aid you when comparing turbo maps from another site. e) Torque-Horsepower Loss due to Aerodynamic Drag. This calculator takes your car's Frontal Area, Coefficient of Drag, drivetrain horsepower, engine rpm, wheel-tire size, and drivetrain gearing to calculate peak speed based on the remaining torque and horsepower to the wheels. f) Ideal Shift RPM Calculator. This calculator allows the end user to input specific rpm's and torque which then calculates the appropriate hp. The torque and rpms can also be taken from any dyno run. The gearing inputs allow up to 6 different gear ratios to determine which rpm shift alots for the least minimal loss in torque. g) Blank DCR Worksheet Form. This is not a calculator - rather it has the instructions on how to calculate DCR but it is not a calculator. It is a blank form that is printable which allows you to play around with the numbers away from the computer at your leisure. These calculators are on not as high quality as you would find on a more expensive software package. If you want that kind of quality then you will have to open your wallet a little further. These calculators do offer real data that everyone needs when attempting to understand the engine. I dont currently have a Paypal account. So if you want this CD-Book then you will need to send a money order to me at: Kevin Shasteen c/o 1975 CR 1025 Ravenna, Texas 75476 NOTE: Dont forget to give a day time phone# and Extension in case of emergency or mix up. All orders will go out regular mail unless noted otherwise. Typical Shipping and Handling for regular mail is usually $4 to $5 dollars. If you want it shipped FedEx or UPS then you can PM (Personal Message) me through HybridZ to iron out the detials. If you have any other questions you can PM me. I really believe everyone needs to understand DCR, Port Pressure, and Cylinder Pressure prior to ever building an engine. This is why I wrote the book. I dont claim to be an expert but I do believe there is too little info on the relationship of cam duration, cylinder displacement, port sizing and the SCR. Anyway-there's my sales pitch. PS: Reminder that $3 from every CD-Book purchase goes back to SuperDan for HybridZ website support. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I think the price is too pricey. GM probably made the heads for the racing classes that "Must Use Factory Cast Iron" heads...if there is even such a class. Too pricey for my pocket. For that price if I had my rathers, I would definately go with aluminum AFR's. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm like Pete...anxiously awaiting the Airflow Numbers? Kevin, (Yea, Still an Inliner)

Regarding the Camel Hump Heads..if memory serves me correc, they had small intake ports in the 160cc range. In the hands of a skilled head shop their ports could be pushed to the +/-180cc range, but only after spending $1000-2000 dollars. The reason these heads were sought out, in the hay days, is because their smaller ports increased airflow velocity in the ports at a lower rpm range. In those days the Static Compresson Ratio's were higher and the cam durations were excessive. So the higher airflow velocity matched the excessive cam duration: and this matched the smaller displacements and the 116 leaded fuel. The camel hump heads were great for those who wanted to go racing.....30 years ago! They are not that great for performance engines nowadays, as the Cylinder Head, Camshaft, Intake Manifold, Fuel Delivery bar has been raised exponentially with the onslaught of the aftermarker world: and the the auto manufacturers have followed suit. The aftermarket Cam, Cylinder Head, Intake, and Carb mfg's have improved airflow and fuel atomization to such a degree there really is no reason you would want to use the old stuff...unless you got it cheap or you were attempting a 100 point restoration. Dont buy old stock if you can afford the newer stuff. There is nothing wrong with a 327 if that is what you want. The trick is in knowing what you want and how you plan on getting there. Read as much as you can. Things won't make sense to you until you understand how to manage airflow velocity: as in which parts will have what effect to the port pressures and cylinder pressures at any rpm. This is why the SCR to DCR relationship, Cylinder Head Port Volumes to CFM flow at a specific Valve Lift....relative to engine displacement and your level of performance you desire are so important. IMHO you have three choices: 1) Build an old school SBC (carburetor fueled) 2) Buy an old school SBC crate engine (carburetor fueled) 3) Buy an LS1...very streetable and already putting out about 50 more torque/horsepower you were looking for. If you go route #1 you take the risk of not meeting your goal-unless you or someone else knows what they are doing. You stil have the time delay between pulling old motor/trans & installing new motor/trans. #2-3 is basically plug and play. With the same time delay in pulling the old engine/trans and getting the new engine/trans to run). The engine and transmission brackets will cost about the same regardless who you get them from...unless you make your own. I would suggest you read a lot and ask a bunch of questions: then make your educated decision. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

That's fantastic. I was concerned you would have traction problems with the 4.11's. I hope the traction doesnt become an issue once you put your 383 in. For now-when you race w/the 355 what rpm do you lauch...what is your technique for getting the car moving? Do you punch it from a dead idle-rev it to 2000rpm ect, ect(?). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Jared, The only .02c's I can add is this. First, I would congradulate you on having a long term goal. That is the first step to meeting that goal. Secondly, very few people have the on hand resources to achieve their long term goals immediately: hence the vernacular "long-term". Secondly, I would suggest that you do what ever you have to do to surround yourself with like minded folks who think the way you do regarding your long term goals. This will help keep those feelings from ever fading away. Thirdly, either way you achieve your goal.., 1) working your way up through some shop while paying your dues and learning the craft the hard way 2) going to school and getting your training in a professional trade school 3) or by getting a business loan .., you are going to PAY. You either pay in the short run or you pay in the long run. Experience doesnt come cheep and that is the hard luck bottom line. A fourth option would be a State/Federal grant...you dont pay if you qulify. Having a long term goal is good-but you still have to live in the present tense: pay bills, eat, maintain your car, some kind of a lifestyle, ect. Having a long term goal and being forced to living in the present is kind of like an engine in itself. The engine wont start by itself-it needs a smaller engine to start the larger engine. So you can think about your starter as being the present tense and the larger engine as your long term goal. In other words-it takes a smaller engine to get the larger engine running, up until the larger engine can run on itself the smaller engine (starter) is mandatory. You have three chioces: 1) Business Loan, Family Loan, Private Invester (debt) 2) Work in a shop till you can break away (lost time-but valuable experience gained) 3) Go to a Professional Hot Rod Trade School (debt-school loans) Unfortunately, either choice you make you are still going to pay: and it will take patience to not only get there-but that field is so competitive you really need to know how to manage a shop...people, supply-demand ect. The only real advice I can add is to have patience, dont give up on your dream, have a plan and a time-line when you expect your long term goal to mature, surround yourself with like-minded people, and dont listen to the nay-sayers that claim you cant do it. Have you thought about putting an add in papers nation wide? You never know when an invester is looking to invest. Just keep in mind that silent partners are rarely silent. As far as a high-end paying job: usually those jobs are obtained by you already having that experience or because you know someone that already works there and as a result you are recommended. Anyway-hope this has helped in some manner. Keep the fire within burning-and dont let that flame go out! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

1 1/2" is good enough for government work ...definately dont sweat an 1/8". Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm sure he kicked the cat after he got home! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Well, these past 10 days have been long and boring. My computer was hit by 6 different viruses all at once via an email. The viruses were non-stop pop-up advetisements that slowed my computer down so much that the computer would eventually lock up. I had McAfee (I think that is how you spell it) Virus Protection that my brother, the computer guru of the family, had installed. Yet, I rarely ever updated the software. That changed about 10 days ago. Upon updating the softwar, only after being hit with these constant pop-ups, did the virus protection software locate these 6 viruses. Prior to this incedent I took the, "It will never happen to me" approach regarding viruses and never updated the software except every once in awhile. Well, those odds - that it would never happen to me caught up to me about 10 days ago. I had to wipe the hard drive completely clean and then reinstall everything. Luckily I had everything backed up on CD-ROM. Words of Wisdom....update your virus protection software weekly and backup your files! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I whole-heartedly agree about learning from Dyno runs. Another tool to look at is BMEP on every dyno run for each rpm, TQ, and HP. BMEP is the indicated cylinder pressure. BMEP stands for Brake Mean Effective Pressure. Take for instance the two examples Grumpy listed, where the only alteration was swapping a 600 cfm carb for a 750 cfm carb. BMEP for the 600 was: 164 BMEP for Peak Tq at 4100 rpm 139 BMEP for Peak HP at 6000 rpm BMEP for the 750 was: 165 BMEP for Peak Tq at 4200 rpm 136 BMEP for Peak HP at 5900 rpm The 165 BMEP would put this engine in the category of the high end range on a Mild Street engine; to the low end range on an H/O Street Engine. Learning to recognize patterns is the first step into understanding the engine. Airflow Velocity and Cylinder Pressures at a specific rpm is what separates one performance engine from the next. We all simply need to understand how the Compression Ratios and Port Volumes effect the Airflow Velocity and Cylinder Pressures with the spec's of a given Cam Profile. You can do this by learning how to read a dyno run. Unfotunately the high performance magazines rarely give the full data when they list their dyno runs....so this makes it a little difficult to fully interpret what you are reading. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

The only difference I am aware of that addresses your question, is the 2+2 is @ 6-8 inches longer. The driveshafts between the two differ by 11.8 inches for the 75 models and 11.82 inches for the 76-78 models. The wheelbase for the coupe is 90.7 inches and the wheelbase for the 2+2 is 102.6; a difference of 11.9 inches. The coupe and 2+2 body both share the same components from the front door pillars forward while the body differs from the rear door pillar backwards by 8-12 inches due to the 2+2's rear seat and pop-out side vent windows. Hope this helps. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Wow, V8 swap's first start up and you never posted prior to this: congrat's. Iiiiiiiiii am soooooooo Jealous! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I didnt know at the time you listed your cam if you had adjusted your Lobe Centerlines for the 4* advance that the mfg's have ground into their cam. The point I wanted to express is to be sure and doublecheck your math, tripplecheck your math, and then check it again. Kind of like the carpenter's rule...."Measure Twice and Cut Once". Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing here: sometimes the Lobe Separation Angle is called Lobe Center Angle or Lobe Displacement Angle...not to be confused with the Lobe Centerline which is also called Lobe Centers. If the mfg has ground the cam 4* advanced then the Lobe Separation Angle (LSA), will be 4* advanced when the cam is installed straight up. You cant alter how the cam was ground. You can only alter how you install the cam relative to the piston's TDC. This means the timing events occur 4* earlier when compaired to that same cam without the factory 4* advance. All Cam fundamentals can be lumped into 3 categories: 1) Cam Profile (opening-closing, duration, lift) 2) Lobe Separation Angle (overlap) 3) Cam Installation (advanced, straight up, or retarded) If a cam was ground by the mfg w/a 4* advance-your cam will be 4* advanced when it is installed straight up (does this make sense?). So when you decide to calculate the timing events you will have to move the Intake Lobe Centerline 4* as well as the Exhaust Lobe Centerline, in your calculations to obtain the correct tiiming events. So if a cam had a 112* LSA and the end user were to install the cam straight up (this is a reference to the Crank Rotation to Piston position based upon TDC), then your Lobe Centerlines would be Intake Lobe Centerline = 116* Exhaust Lobe Cenerline = 108* This is all I was emphasizing when I mentioned to double check the math. Either of these cams will make great torque in a light car, as you suggested. The question is do you want peak torque in the 2500-3500 rpm range or do you want your peak torque to be in the 3000-4500 rpm range. There are two ways of reaching peak power. Either manner you choose you have to realize we are still managing airflow velocity in the ports, and this effects cylinder pressures for a given rpm. The old school, muscle car engine days, manner of building a performance engine was to utilize a cam with excessive duration , mild to moderate lift, and a high SCR coupled with cylinder heads that used smaller ports. This allowed the engine's horsepower to peak in the 4700-5000 rpm range. This occurred because airflow velocity was high at lower rpms. Then a long came the aftermarket who built better breathing cyl.heads and cams more suitable for those heads on the street and strip: coupled with the removal of lead in our pump gas. You have to decide do you want a street performaer or do you want a drag strip performer? You have already stated you wanted streetability with a punch. 270-280cams are borderline Hot Street Engines which is one level higher than a streetable engien with a punch. The new approach to building a good street performer is to utilize a cam with higher lift, moderate duration (compared to the musclecar cams) that take advantage of the better breathing cyl.heads which have larger ports, moderate compression ratios, and do so on unleaded gas. Volumetric Efficiencies have improved with the aftermarket cams, cylinder heads, intake manifolds, and reverse dome bathtub dished pistons. So the higher cam durations are not always needed; especially if you want a smooth idle. The differences between the two approaches to building an engine is basically in how the airflow velocity is managed. The early musclecar heads utilized smaller ports while the newer aftermarket cyl.heads utilize larger ports on average. You can still get aftermarket cyl.heads with smaller ports-you just have to know what port sizing is going to give you the peak rpm range and idle quality you desire. This brings me to the next question...when you take your car to the strip are you going to rev your engine beyond 5000 rpm or is 5000 rpm going to be your limit? I'm only asking because you stated earlier in your first post that the majority of your driving would be in the lower rpm range and that racing was not your intention. When you set your peak hp rpm you have also set your mid peak torque rpm range as well. Usually a 270-280* cam will put your peak rpm range in the 5500-6500 rpm range depending on the cyl.heads chosen. This also moves your mid peak torque power to the 3500-4500 rpm range...mismatched to daily street driving. IMHO if you were going to drive this daily then you would want a 2500-3500 peak torque range. This way your engine would come on the cam quicker and run more efficient during hwy cruise (better gas mileage). Just some issues to think about. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Now if we could just swap the GTO Body for one that doesnt look like a Honda! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

..,2004r auto tranny with 2000 stall.., Dont skimp on your 2004r. I had a trany shop convince me into not buying a B&M 2004r because they claimed they could do the same for less. I spent $1600 for the perf.trans and it still couldnt quite keep up with the engine; Just FYI. Dave, When you are making your calculations be sure and doublecheck your math. As grump suggested - the 270 cam is 4 degrees advanced...so to is the 267 cam, as you already stated. Your calculatios were correct for the 270 but not on the 267 cam. This means your Intake Lobe's Centeline will be 116, not 112. As a result your IVC you input in D.Kelley's DCR calculator is incorrect as well as the 38 degrees overlap: providing the cam is installed straight up. The incorrections are minor-yet if maximizing your engine-car combo is an issue then our degree of accuracy is mandatory. I'm not nit-picking...just something I noticed. (Intake Duration / 2) - LCA = Intake Valve Opening (Intake Duration - IVO) - 180 = IVC Example: Using your 267 cam (267 / 2) - 116 = 17.5* (267 - 17.5) - 180 = 69.5* (Int Duration + Exh Duration) / 4) - LCA) x 2 = Overlap Overlap Example: Using your 267 cam (267 + 272) / 4) - 112) x 2) = 45.5* As grumpy said - there are a lot of issues at play here. To make it as simple as possible you can always look at a decent smooth running engine in categories of generalities. These are not vague generalities they are indicative of a smooth idle yet good performance for pure streetability. SCR in the 9.25:1 to 9.7:1 SCR is a good rule of thumb. If you are using aluminum cyl.heads then you have nothing to worry about with the SCR ranges given. A good rule of thumb for a pure streetable DCR would be to choose a DCR in the 8.0:1 to 8.25:1 DCR. If you want a streetable engine with a relatively smooth idle in the 700-750 rpm range you will need a cam that offers an IVC that leaves atleast 75-80% cylinder volume after the IVC. If you had a Crank Angle Chart you would see that 75-80% Cylinder Volume would require an IVC somewhere in the 61-70* IVC ABDC range. To ensure a peak rpm in the 5000rpm rang requires a cylinder head whose port volume is in the 170-185 cc range. Overlap requirements for a good street engine with descent idle should be somewhere in the 30-40* range. Peak Cylinder Pressures in the lower rpm range 4500-5000 rpm, is your goal. So Cylinder Heads that allow a higher Airflow Velocity at lower rpms is a requirement: such as the Votec Heads grumpy suggested. If you chose moderate valve lift in the .450-.470 range should net you a good performing street engine with a punch as long as you use a dual plane intake manifold whose peak power is in the 0-5000 rpm range. The relationship between DCR and SCR is the remaining cylinder volume after the IVC based upon your desired peak cylinder pressures at a specific rpm. This is where understanding BMEP calculations are helpful. It looks likes you are doing your homework based upon your questions-this is good because it will lead to educated choices. Any engine requires balancing DCR to SCR, Port Velocity, Valve Lift & Overlap: all these issues lead up to Cylinder Pressure. The trick is to apply your peak Cylinder Pressure at a specific rpm. If you still have questions dont hesitate to ask. BTW: I PM'd you. Check your HybridZ pm window. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dave, Before attempting to answer your question I would like to know if your car-engine combo will be a daily driver or will it be a weekend warrior / dragstrip car. In other words, is maximum performance your goal or is street driveability with a punch your goal? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Traction may be a problem with those 4.11's. You might be able to get away with it with your 355 yet your 383 may be a different story. Good luck and as if I have to say it - let us know how it turns out. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm guessing from your description that your condition is a, "Cranks but Won't Start" as opposed to a "No Crank" situation or else you wouldnt have any idea that the fuel pump & distributor are inop. My first question would be to ask if you have a Factory Datsun Manual? Not just a Haynes, Chilton, or Motors...but a Factory Datsun Manual. If your engine cranks but doesnt start due to no fuel or ignition I would suggest checking continuity at the ignition module when the key is turned to the "on" position. If you are not getting power to the ignition module then your relays are not energized either. I dont have a 77 Datsun Manual but I do have a 78 manual. I also had an intermittant "no crank" and or a "cranks-but no start" condition last year. My problem ended up being: 1) two to three fuses that tested good yet they were actually bad. 2) Ignition Coil that had no fully failed but was on its way out. 3) Ignition Switch Relay had failed 4) 1 Fusible Link 5) ....and a Blue Plastic Wal*Mart bag that was sucked up my intake snorkel Durning all this I removed my Ignition Transisto Unit and took it down to AutoZone, Napa, and O-Reilly's to which all three didnt have the proper fusible link for testing. Fortunately for me my Ign. Transistor Unit was fine as it was my Ignition Relay that had failed...$30 so no biggy as opposed to the Ignition Transistor Unit that was $130-which is much better than what Nissan wanted..$300. Since you are not getting power to your Coil & Fuel Pump I would suggest either you are not getting Battery 12+ volts past your Ingnition Switch, 12+ volts to the Ignition Relay or 12+ volts to the Ignition Transistor Ignition Unit. Your first order of business is to identify which wires from the key switch (the one attached to the other side of the key lock cylinder) that powers the Ign. Relay and Ign. Transistor unit which powers the other relays that energize both your Ign. Coil and Fuel Pump. BTW: the Ign. Switch powers both the Iqn. Relay and the Ign. Transistor Unit. The Ign. Relay will power the other relays which include the Fuel Injector Harness Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, and Fuel Pump Control Relay and a few others. If you dont have a factory manual then you really need to get one as the aftermarket manual's electrical diagrams are not as easy to follow as the Factory Datsun Manuals. If your local Nissan Dealer doesnt have one they should have access to a CD-Rom Manual for your year car. If you dealer doesnt have them in stock then you can call Courtesy Nissan in Plano Tx...they have them in stock ph#1800.527.1909 or ph#972.644.3942 Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

*NOTE: Your 383 will definately like that single plane intake...as you pointed out in your first post. As far as your 355 is concerned-here are the parameters you have given. 1) My cam is from 2200-5800 RPMS Peak ocurring at 6100 and torque at 4500. 2) My rear is currently 3.54 but have 411s coming. 3) My tranny is a 700R4. My stall is 2800 but only can go to about 1900 before the tires slip. 4) My dual is rated to 6000 RPM however. 5) Even with the 411s I wont exceed 6000 in third. 6) I now run the traps at about 5200 or so at 111. 7) My tires are right at 26 inches. Nitto 275 50 15s. 8) I shift at 6000 RPMS. Just off the top of my head I can see the obvious-you're hitting the traps well below your cam and (Dual) Intake's maximum potential: which is at 6000rpms. Yes I know-I am stating the obvious. Yet you are running a Single...not a dual intake. The Vic Jr's are rated at peak rpm's in the 7000-8000rpm range: your 5200rpm trap speed and or point at which you shift...6000rpms, is no where near 7000rpm or 8000rpm range. You will either need to swap gears to those 4.11's to improve airflow velocity withing your engine's ports, or you need to go back to your dual intake manifold. Still, even if you go back to your dual your gearing is still wrong for that 282 cam. You need at the very least 3.9 diff gears to take full advantage of your cam. 4.11's with your 700R4 trans, and 25.83" tires will net you 6000rpms...providing you can maintain traction from the start. The problem with this is that your mph will only be 112 (?) with no wiggle room to go faster if you are not going to exceed 6000rpm. I personally think, and its easy for me to say this because it's not my car; that 3.9 diff gears will suit you better if you went back to your dual intake. This leaves you with 118mph wiggle room at your max 6000rpms. If you wish to keep your single then you will need to rev your engine up to the 7000-8000rpm range to take full advantage of your single intake, otherwise why bother having it if you are not willing to rev your engine to the intake's mfg's suggested peak rpm? 2nd question; if you are going to keep the single intake and decide to rev it to 7000-8000rpm can your engine handle continual 7k revs without busting something? I think you would like 3.9 diff gears more than 4.11's...just my .02c's worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

It would be hard to truly answer what items your blew without first knowing how Hybrid is your Hybrid. Are you still running the factory charging system? What aftermarket components have you spliced into your charging system? Are you still running all factory modules, relays, and fusible links? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

It's rare that both headlight assemblies will fail at the same time. Have you checked to see if either headlight is getting power to the headlight bulb socket? Check the driver's side headlight bulb socket first. This means you will have to remove the inner fender splash guard to gain access to each headlight socket. If you are not getting power to the socket then your problem is not with the headlights. The older 240's are known for headlight/headlight switch problems. Your best bet is to get a factory manual as it will offer insight to the correct procedures for tracing down electrical failures. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for sharing: I always like to learn from someone else's prob's when I can. Glad to hear you figured it out....I hate them wiring gremlins! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)