Kevin Shasteen

That's definately a mystery to me? I agree that when the secondaries open under a WOT that not only should you hear them opening but you should also "feel" them opening (butto'dynometer). Either they are not opening or as you said the transition from primaries to secondaries are smooth/quiet (Hmmm?). All I can say is 300 RWHP is nothing to sneeze at(!) with a moderate cam profile. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dent? Did somebody say dent? What's this about a Dent? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sounds like fun and a good recipe; just one word of caution that came to my mind. You said you dont know the actual condition of your engine. Even tho its always been dependable; what if your cyl's are only a few thousand miles from being too far out of tolerance & begin blowing oil past the rings. Spending all that money on your current engine just to have to pull the engine again for a rebore would not be fun. Have you considered pulling your engine & spec'ing out the cyl.bores for tolerance against the pistons & rings: blow-by is no fun . Many times a builder will put new heads or have their own heads rebuilt (valve job) which then seal the engine perfect (the top part of the engine that is); in fact the seal up top is so good that it will actually pull the oil passed the old rings. You begin wondering why your engine which didnt give you prob's before is now sucking oil. Just my .02c's worth. If the cyl's are fine then all you need it to simply give them a light honeing, install new rings & break the engine in upon start up...but at least then you'll know the condition of the cylinder walls. I envy you what you're about to begin; still, dont get ahead of yourself. I met up w/a buddy a few days ago & he showed me his latest purchase for his 408W stroker; AFR Alluminum 185's Cylinder Heads...those things are saweeet! Good luck w/your set up. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Z-Dreamer: Ok, can someone explain to me what is the formula conversion to convert millimeters to CFM; Example, what would be the CFM rating on a TB that is say 60mm? Only correct answer will be appreciated. Mark Ahhh, Grasshopper; In order for one to obtain a correct answer one must ask a correct question! CFM is not converted into mm's. CFM is the flow of air thru a passage while the mm's is the measurement of the opening that the air passes thru. Just because you're looking at lets say a 60mm metering device doesnt mean that this particular 60mm metering body will flow the same airflow of another 60mm metering body from another brand. The mm's measurement of the metering body in question would be similar to the measurement in inches of a venturi from a carburetor. As we all know not all carb's of equal CFM will perform equally. Each Mfg of both carb's & flow meters will build their product w/their own special mod's, these mod's enable a tuner to customize their engine's performance. The trick is knowing what those mod's are & when to apply them. I'm not a FI guy; but I've got charts (From a SBF book that gives flow ratings) on 60mm metering bodies flowing from 530cfm to 600cfm; while the 70mm bodies may flow from 730cfm to 820cfm, the 75cfm to 77cfm bodies flow from the 850cfm to the 1550cm, while some 80mm bodies flow in the 1350cfm range the 90mm bodies will flow from 1200 to the 1250cfm range. Grasshopper; when you can take this injector from my hand, then & only then will you be ready to leave. I believe this info to be the best of my knowledge at this moment...and if I'm wrong-well then: Never Mind! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

When you're ordering your Dyno program...make sure you buy the Dyno 2000 & do not "REPEAT-DO NOT" but the old/outdated Desktop Dyno. I finally met up w/a buddy that had Dyno 2000; I was very impressed . That & Drag 2000 or any of the other programs mentioned previously should be everything you'll need (except for the actual car!). Needless to say, I now have both those programs. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Z_Ferrari: I guess the i/c and BOV gives away my sleeper status[/QB] I'm guessing the Ferrari Red is more of a "Sleeper Give-Away" than anything else! Not to second guess your build; but what is your compression? Turbo's & high compression usually equals detonation...but wouldnt an I/C counter a high compression engine(?); I'ld think that that would depend on the efficiency of the compressor & the efficiency of the I/C. Timing is probably an issue as Jim said earlier. Have your tried higher octane fuels? Just throwing out ideas/my non experienced .02's worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Non Turbo'd" Inliner)

I had a similar symptom on my Cutlass; turns out it was the Cruise Control Servo Linkage that was pinching the throttle linkage. It too would idle fine at an initial start up-but once you gave it some gas it would stick & you counldnt get the engine to kick down; it's idle was stuck at 1200rpm's. Check your throttle linkage or R&R the throttle linkage/make sure it isnt binding. A week throttle return spring could cause similar symptoms. Also had a 66 Cutlass once that had the exact opposite problem; initial idle was fine but once the engine warmed up it would die at idle. Turned out the carb.base plate gasket was defective & interferring w/incoming air. Once I put new plenum gasket on everything was fine. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

It appears the saga continues w/my Dynamic Compression Slider Thingy. Prior to having a new computer my brother copied from the old hard drive to the new hard drive; anyway's it did something to my slider crank formula & caused the numbers to be skewed so my previous #'s on my printout's were correct. Luckily I had the old format copied to disk; but, to say the least...this has been a pain! I still will go thru each printout of each eng.configuration just to make sure which is correct & which is not. I've been slimed by my own computer that hurts! Blasted Computers! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Not really familiar w/the blazer confirguration but I & my family have had toyota's in the past where we have thought the cat.converters were stopped up & it turned out to be the "Pre"converters...yes that's right. The pre-converters were stopping up giving exact symptoms of a bad converter. Be sure your fuel pump (manual?) is not bad? How bout a fuel filter? I once had a fuel pump diaphram go bad that was still functioning enough that it pumped fuel but allowed fuel to also enter the engine's crankcase. This caused me to lose power...& luckily it was discovered early enough that my engine didnt impload as the crankcase was literally filled w/fuel Check the simple things first; tune up items including fuel pump & filters. Dont forget the Air filter. If the air filter is neglected & filthy-it will impede airflow & also give the same symptom you've described. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dan, You did it correctly. Next time, this is what I do, is keep a torch on it till the burning rubber begins dripping(!); yea, makes a lot of smoke & stinks the place up...neighbors if you got em will hate you for it. Once the rubber catches fire you'll want to give the burning & melting/dribbling process a few moments to burn-then push it out w/a scredriver. As far as the metal bushing; cut it w/a hacksaw slowly-then split it w/a chisel to get a ear/flap & put the air chisel on that flap..this way you wont mar the control arm. Or if you turn down the air pressure on your chisel & are very careful you can simply push out the bushing shell...this takes more patience as its easy to go thru the shell & damage your control arm. Congrats on getting them out. BTW: when you're going back w/new bushings...you'll probably need to take your grinder & grind a small bevel on the inside of the outer/top of the control arm. Then, once that is cleaned up; install the new bushings/lube them...and fenagle the control arm back on using the bevel that you've ground onto your control arm. W/out the bevel ground on your control arm you may not get the arm back on(new bushings will be too tight). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm not that up on the FI electronics but when I read your post...the first thing I thought of is that your engine is not adjusting itself for less air on a deceleration: it does fine from idle & acceleration but isnt adjusting fuel (as in lesser fuel requirement) on a deceleration. Now, the question should be what does the symptom mean-too much fuel due to the FI system not adjusting for a decel or sticky injectors, bad pressure regulator? Definately check the minor but most important things such as tune up items; cap, rotor, plugs & plugwires. Just my .02's worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Okay guys...figured out the mystery. On my form for my slider crank I can input the parameters which alters the #'s but in order to know which engine combo is being plugged into the format I have to 'change the heading' from one engine to another; which appears on a few of my print outs the header was changed but not the parameters. Translation: Junk In=Junk Out Now I have to go thru each one of my print outs just to confirm which are correct & which are not correct. I knew that Block Deck Height has no bearing on piston speed...as that is a function of stroke, rod length; which is why I was so surprised when I got the 'new numbers' I thought I had. Oh Well; guess that Nobel Piece Prize will have to wait afterall. I momentarily got off track from throwing myself a curve...but I'm back to the normal abnormal self. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)...now I'm repeating myself-is that normal?

Omar, I couldnt post anything if my life depended on it; computer illit myself Thanks for reminding me of that site; I remember it being posted a couple times last year but didnt remember what components were used. I still dont like the short piston comp.height they used as the pin is well into the ring lands..not too sure about durability(?). I remember reading that site before but that was prior to my understanding the crank/slider mechanism & formatting it on excel. FWIW: when using the crank/slider mechanism as a tool for piston location, you have to use a Block Deck Height to Piston Deck Height Tolerance of "0"...which means a theoretical "0" block to piston tolerance. Otherwise the piston is still down in the cylinder, for the purpose of the graph, & the results indicate neagative numbers. This would skew your attempts. That's why I mentioned the excessive decking. Anyways, I'll to get my brother (IT Tech) or my mom to instruct me on how to "post" pic's here at Hybridz so everyone can see; he's suppose to be visiting for T-giving. I'll try to post something then. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ok, Davy opened this can of worms on the "Short Stroke SBC" post whereby he made mention of a 327 crank in a 400 block. Surely this has been done before; yes/no? Anyone have any info on this combo? The curiosity bit me bigtime; so I plugged the #'s into my slider/crank format, these #'s are as follows: 1) Bore = .030 400SBC = 4.156 2) Stroke = 327SBC = 3.250 3) Piston Comp.Height = 1.560 4) Rod Length = 5.703 As a reminder; the slider crank mechanism (thanks again Pete for making me aware of this) is that once a graph is plotted, 180 degrees=1 degree for each crankshaft rotation, you can tell the speed at which the piston moves the most; if you want different data then simply alter you parameters. Anyway, I immediatedly noticed the piston deck to block deck height tolerance was a wopping .137 thousanths of an inch; so you'ld have to do a lot of decking of the block to get near 0.0" or .005" tolerance. This wasnt the surprising part-just thought I'ld pass it along as food for thought. The surprising data was that the piston seemed to hang around TDC, even more so than the 327 SBC in its stock configuration. The piston's actually .020" slower in all measurements, at the top of the cylinder than the 327. Its not till the piston reaches 90* (the * icon = Degrees). This is the interesting part. At 90* the piston is dead center .500" in the middle of the cylinder, and from here on to BDC the piston travel is an exact duplicate to the 327sbc. The pistons on all other SBC configurations, from TDC to the 90*' mark of crankshaft travel, is about .020" further down the cylinder. Can someone aid me in translating this phenomenon(?). Would this not be a good thing for Dwell Time? Has someone put a 327 crank in a 400 block before? I'ld bet this engine would a revving mama-jama...unless again I'm completely off my rocker, which is quite possible. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

QUICK SOMEONE CALL 911, Z-Tard is having a Stroke! Seriously tho, if that is where your heart is pulling you then by all means, go for it. I just feel you're biting off an awful lot & the bites your getting will be from a pretty expensive apple. Good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

If its exact spec's you want for a 377; do a search on the net for, AFR 377 SBC, 377 Chevy or Chevy Performance V8...something of that nature & you should bring up more info than you can read in a lifetime. One site I came up with, regarding SBC combo's & included a 377 was: http://www.camaro.net/racing/sbcombo.html This site is more of a component choice & briefly describes what each owner chose & gives 1/4 mile times they achieved w/the combo's...thought it was insightful. It also included 327, 350, 355, 383 & a host of 406's. Enjoy the reading; I did. Kevin, (Yea, Still a 377 Dreaming Inliner)

I'm assuming here, as per your opening statement, that your basically wanting to alter you rod/stroke ratio; here's another idea concerning the squish issue. What about using your stock length rods & buy forged pop-up's...then have the pop=up's milled down to your .005-.010" piston deck to block deck tolerance required. Just depends on budget & how you wish to approach the matter. Either way; machine work is required & your product is only as good as the machinest performing the work; so cost is directly parallel to the expertise of the machinest regardless of which choice you make. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

There's no telling; when someone alters a car like that...it may have been to obtain the sleeper effect or it may have been to bypass relays that have failed & the previous owner couldnt afford to repair/replace properly. There's no telling what has been done or what other hidden switches are in/behind the dash or under the seat??? Then throw in a turbo system that may not be working correctly either(?); who knows? The only way to determine what is what would to be to get a factory service manual & begin testing each component of the ignition/fuel circuits...ONE by One by One, till you get it running. Start w/the battery & trace the ignition circuit till you've confirmed everything is accounted for & working accordingly. Do the same thing w/the fuel circuit. If you are cirtain you're getting fuel then the only other unknowns would be ignition or air. An engine needs three things to run; Fuel, Air & Spark...and it needs all three in an appropriate measured amount. Happy Hunting. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Congrats Davy (Now I'll certainly never catch up to you in postings). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sounds like an adventure; but sometimes an adventure can get expensive! The little odds & ends on carbs are for fine tuning your carb to your specific needs. Any engine sitting next to another engine of like kind quality will not always run identical to its neighbor-even if the exact same parts are used; go figure, but it just works out that way sometimes & that is where fine tuning your fuel system comes into play. As for modifying the intakes; well the intake manfiold mfg's have done just about everything they can to squeaze every bit of power they could from the typical V8. The problem isnt in the intakes, usually, its in the Cyl.Heads. If you're gonna modify cyl.heads or intake manifolds then you'll need an airflow bench...or else how will you know when you made a positive change -vs- a negative change. The 2valve cyl.head V8 is forced to run their push rods so close together that it poses a limitation on the airflow going into the combustion chamber...read Vizard's next book, "How To Modify SBC Cyl.Heads" for an indepth explanation on the heads. If you want the best of both worlds you'll need a DOHC or aftermarket cyl.heads w/4valve's per cylinder; these heads eliminate the typical restriction on incoming airflow and the arrangement of the two intake valves and the neighboring exh.valves allow for gobs of power at low rpm's and at high & HIGHER rpm's. Dont want to discourage you because it sounds like you're excited about fabricating an intake manifold...go for it; there's nothing like first hand "Hands On" experience...but you gotta keep us updated. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Wow, looks like a lot of hard work & fabricating going on. Did you do the adaptor plates yourself? What is the smaller adaptor plate bolted to the center of the larger adaptor plate for? One question about the welded bead from the bell housing to the adaptor plate; was that merely to permanantly attach the two pieces or did you also have to cut part of the bell housing in order to give room for the thickness of the larger adaptor plate? Besides the purchase of the T-56; what were the costs of the modifications to the bell housing? How much of the mod's did you do yourself? Nice work-what's the "ETA" for a test run? I'ld definately be interested in knowing how the 6cyl responds to the 6spd trans. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

My first vehicle was a 73 Int'l 4x4 w/a 4spd manual. It had a warped flywheel & worn out clutch. Under a load while backing up I'ld experience the wheel hop syndrome. When pulling forward under a heavy load the clutch would slip. That truck had heavy duty Dana diff's & they were as stout as could be; my problem was the clutch & flywheel. If you have not given the clutch any attention then that area can not be ruled out; you've mentioned the r200 was fine...sonds like you've ruled out the rear diff(?); definately need to resolve the rear diff nose strap in one manner or another prior to anything else. Take care of the strap in one othe previously mentined posts on this thread then begin looking at your driveline/trans/clutch & flywheel. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just my .02 worth, in Joe Mondello writings (sounds like I'm quoting some Philospher or something) he mentions that theory is always relative; but w/a large cubic inch engine (big bore & stroke) that sometimes the rod/angularity theory goes straight out the window. I guess on a pure dedicated drag engine...rod/angularity isnt that important; but for efficiency on a street car that needs durability...then efficiency may be more important. Everything effects power/efficiency. The questions is where do you give up efficiency for power or power for efficiency? again it boils down to intent of use of that engine. Definately a good discussion/I'm sill learning. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I CANT BELIEVE THIS, THIS, THIS BLASPHEMY! He ruined a perfectly good Z; and for what, to make a 4 x 4.., oh wait: we do the same thing when we alter our Z's...ooop's, never mind! For all we know he rescued it from the salvage yard. I kind of like it...lets just say its growing on me. I could certainly use it out where I live during the rainy season; just one question, Does it have functional A/C? There was a guy in the Plano/Allen Tx area that once built a mid 70's Vette 4x4 Convertible. He drove it everwhere...definately different. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks for the clearifications; that engine definately needs to be in my Z! I also aprreciated you putting the prices of your components chosen on your site when you discussed each item being used: Real Numbers, Real Data & Real Dollars...thanks for the trouble. Running on pump gas w/that engine must be sweet! Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Non 427 SBC" Inliner)