bjhines

You can make some improvements with the G-machine bushings... They will allow adjustment in that range... I can't believe you dont have more negative camber in the rear... It must not be lowered all that much... Set the front Toe to Zero... Get a little toe IN at the rear.... Get a little more caster with some extra washers in the TC rod stack... Slot the upper mount holes in the towers... get a little more negative camber there...

WAIT A MINUTE!!!!!! Aftermarket companies have produced a replacement joint for the Toyota Land Cruisers for quite some time now.... The Land Cruiser has the EXACT SAME SHAFT SIZE as the Zs... but it has 29 splines instead of 28 like the Z cars...!!! The Land Cruisers most certainly put more abuse through their steering parts than the lightweight early Z cars..!!!!!!

Absolutely...!!!! I have already done some measuring.. I will need to take 0.200" off opposite sides to get the proder offset... The Author said to take the thickness of the brackets down to 7.5mm.. but I have figured it out.. You need mill them down to 6.8mm thickness on opposite sides of each bracket...

Hunter makes those machines... there are also several other brands... and they are very expensive.. All of the older balancers are functionally obsolete... With those numbers for runout... I would question the measurement... If you leave that wheel sitting in the sun for 15 minutes it will change FAR MORE than that...

Well... I guess I will get out the scrap steel and just make my own brackets.. I don't like the fact that the Maxima brackets are WAYYYY TOOO thick anyway... I look at that 1/2" hunk of metal and i just cringe at the weight overkill... It will make a nice pattern for the hub bolts and that is about it... I think I will find some 3/16" steel and go from there...

ok.. I just went to the JY yesterday... I went to the trouble to jack up half a dozen cars.. In the mud.. in the cold weather... You guys should thank me... An overview... Top Left: late Maxima caliper. . . . Top Right: early Maxima caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bottom Left: 82 280ZX caliper. . . . Bottom right: 240SX caliper Early '82 Maxima: rear calipers could not get rear brackets(welded on) and the wagon model had drum brakes Caliper is the same as the late 280ZX but it has a smaller piston Later '86 Maxima: Rear calipers Flat brackets 240SX: rear calipers could not get brackets... they were welded like the early Maximas' 280ZX: rear calipers Rotors 300ZX: rear brakes were already stripped Probably the same as the Late Maxima calipers 200SX: rear brakes were already stripped ??????????????????????????????? Some differences I noticed right off the bat are... 1. The mounting hangers have different offsets where they bolt to the bracket. 2. The E-brake hangars vary WIDELY!!!! 3. The piston sizes are different. To mention some similarities... 1. The ZX and the Maximas appear to use the same caliper offset, distance from rotor, E-brake hangars, and radial spacing... EXCEPT the Maximas have SMALLER pistons than the ZX models... 2. The pistons appear to come in 2 sizes... A. The smaller pistons appear in: Maximas, 240SXs, I'll bet 200sx as well B. The larger pistons appear ONLY in the ZX models... I do not have the 300ZX calipers to compare... But I am willing to bet they are the same as the 85-88 Maxima calipers EXCEPT they have bigger pistons... If you are wondering why all the research.... I realize that Ross at MM may have the best option available... But I wanted to break this down for everyone who was wondering how the various options boil down.... 1. Early 280ZX rear brakes: The bottom of the line upgrade was always the EARLY 280ZX calipers and rotors... The calipers are heavy, and interfere with some wheels The rotors are small, The pads are tiny. 2. Later 280ZX rear brakes: This is a step up in performance with a few problems.. Large piston calipers The rotors are small The pads are the same as all the later model cars The E-brake cable is a tight fit This uses the early maxima offset bracket(bolt on) 3. 200SX rear calipers with 280ZX OR 300zx rotors This was an interesting option giving some leverage for adjusting brake bias with rotor size... except we dont know some of the details yet... This option could equal the Ross/MM 240sx conversion in funtionality.. But to equal Ross's set up you would need to source 2 sets of calipers and you must have the outer DIA. of the large rotor reduced a fraciton of an inch... The rotors are small but can be enlarged with 300ZX caliper hangers smaller piston caliper common pads The Ebrake connection works well This uses the LATE model/FLAT Maxima brackets(they must be milled for proper spacing) 4. 85-88 Maxima calipers brackets and 300zx rotors This is the option I am working on. It has similar specs to the MM upgrade... You will need to source 2 sets of calipers Large 11.4" dia. disk(must be reduced to 11.22") Later Maxima caliper hanger 240SX caliper body Late model/Flat maxima strut bracket(must have 0.2" milled off opposing sides for proper spacing) 5. Ross' Modern Motorsports 240SX calipers and custom bracket is a full package deal that uses the full dia. of the 84 300ZX disk... this is a well thought out system... It has the right balance of features to make it a very well thought out conversion.... *********************************************************************************************** Here are the details on the 4 lug rotors available for the various nissan cars... Brembo 25110 early 280ZX Rear 10.6" disk Type: Solid Disc Overall Diameter: 269mm Minimum Thickness: 8.6mm Overall Height: 68.5mm Fits: 1981 NISSAN 810 Excludes Wagon 1980 - 6/1981 NISSAN 200 SX 1979 - 1981 NISSAN 240Z / 260Z / 280Z / 280ZX 280ZX w/ Rear Disc ************************************************************************** Brembo 25111 later 280ZX rear 10.15" disk Type: Solid Disc Overall Diameter: 258mm Minimum Thickness: 9mm Overall Height: 47mm Fits: 7/1981 - 9/1983 NISSAN 200 SX 10/1983 - 10/1984 NISSAN 200 SX w/ Rear Disc 11/1984 - 4/1986 NISSAN 200 SX 5/1986 - 4/1987 NISSAN 200 SX 4 Cylinder 5/1987 - 1988 NISSAN 200 SX 4 Cylinder 1982 - 1983 NISSAN 240Z / 260Z / 280Z / 280ZX 280ZX w/ Rear Disc 1981 - 6/1984 NISSAN MAXIMA SEDAN ************************************************************************* Brembo 25125 Maxima rear 11.22" disk Type: Solid Disc Overall Diameter: 285mm Minimum Thickness: 8.6mm Overall Height: 74mm Fits: 7/1984 - 7/1985 NISSAN MAXIMA SEDAN 7/1984 - 7/1985 NISSAN MAXIMA WAGON ************************************************************************* 4-lug Brembo 25139 300ZX 4 lug rear 11.42" disk Type: Solid Disc Overall Diameter: 290mm Minimum Thickness: 9mm Overall Height: 47mm Fits: 1984 - 8/1985 NISSAN 300 ZX (Excluding Turbo) ****************************************************************** Ill complete this later...

I have all of the 85- Maxima rear brake hardware on hand... I also have someone willing to perform the machine work in trade... What I need to know is... in what way did you reduce the thickness of the brackets... Was this just for weight savings or to use the original harware?? Did you take them down to 7.5mm from BOTH SIDES?.. or OPPOSITE sides... I assume you need mirror images... Thanks man...

You have to buy a tank first... that will run you $200... then you need a regulator... another $60... Then the tanks cost $50-70 to refill each time... If you figure $400 you will not be dissapointed... If you want to purge air and moisture from your wheels you need opposed valve stems.... figure another $100 to get them installed...

damn that is a lot of machinework... I can assume an equally high price... The Asians know how to do finish work...

Another neat looking lightweight wheel is the Revolution Classic... They compare well to the Wats in weight and race suitability... But the Revolutions finnish is terribly executed... they were meant to be abused.. but look like crap up close... That is why I took interest in this thread.. The Wats are some seriously nice wheels... in every detail...

hehe... No offense.. I was just taken aback by the comment that their only value lay in their rarity... Obviously they are lightweight and strong wheels.. I am just a little frustrated that our market gets such poor coverage... Kudos to 240Zmaster for importing these wheels...

I will second that the interiors of the 70s and 80s era cars have a cardboard look to them... leather covered cardboard... but very weak and wavy... It all just looks like it would fall apart under hard use... I have heard nightmares about the electrical systems... and the bodywork is priceless unless you know a good aircraft builder who can work aluminum... even then it is priceless...

I do not think those working pressures are high enough... brake line pressure guages read 3 times that high.... 1612 is the highest rated working pressure for ANY 1/4" tube... that is very low...

OK... MY racing buddy owns a Wheel and Tire store... He has been in the business for over a decade... He is THE SOURCE for tire mounting for all of the racers in our area... He is that good... He performs insurance work and is also THE MAN for nearly all of the local dealers who run into problems related to tires... All of his equipment is Hunter... He uses several of their Road Force Balancing systems... If you are having a vibration problem and it is related to wheel and or tires then YOU MUST FIND A SHOP WITH A ROAD FORCE BALANCER SYSTEM... This machine accounts for both wheel and tire issues with both balance AND SHAPE... The tires can often be rotated on the rims get get everything lined up for a smooth running set up... This machine loads the tire and wheel assembly as it's rated capacity and then spins it under tension at speeds equivalent to 80MPH... If there is a problem... IT WILL FIND IT... period... Any other type of tire balancing machine is functionally OBSOLETE... Modern cars and tires have come a long way in the past decade... YOU CANNOT PROPERLY BALANCE A MODERN WHEEL AND TIRE ASSEMBLY WITHOUT ROAD FORCE MEASUREMENT! If you manage to get it right in any other way.. you just got lucky... There are too many cars with out of round issues... and there are a surprising number of bad tires frmo many of the manufacturers... even the best... The static vs dynamic balance is a decades old argument... There is NO ARGUMENT HERE... Modern cars REQUIRE dynamic balancing... liek I said before... if you get it right any other way.. You just got lucky... Oh.. You don't always need to place weights on the outside of the wheel for dynamic balance... High offset wheels allow the weights to be placed inside the spokes and still achieve a dynamic placement...

Cupranickle is stock on Volvo... I think that is about it... I like the CN line... But it is not refridgeration line... I am just trying to clear that up...

Holy crap... This is not a designer label on a pair a jeans... If Pepboys carried Wats at a reasonable price EVERYONE WOULD BUY THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Or are you saying that the Wats are just an overpriced hunk of whitemetal made in China... That would make you kin to the New York Taxicab drivers selling designer purses out of the trunk...

I understand that you intend to use the copper line for fuel... but when you say it can withstand ANY pressures on a car... I wonder what it is rated for... throw a number out there... I doubt it is suitable for brakes...

yea... the CCWs went up a bit recently.... they are in the same ballpark... but I can get parts for the CCWs... and I have rebuilt several before... they go back together nicely... I expect that the parts for the Wats are either nonexistant or ridiculously expensive... I can't afford a set of high dollar wheels that will let me down when I need them repaired quickly... If Wat wanted buyers in the States then they would get more involved with dealers here in the States... If I am going to buy Wats... then they will have to beat the hell out of CCWs prices... or show me the support I will need for a track car on an independent owner's budget...

If these things are going for less than $1200 for 4 then I can find some cash... otherwise I can't justify spending all that dough on some track wheels I will inevitably beat the hell out of.... I need 16x10 x4...

They have to be 4x4.5" bolt pattern to fit on a Z... They need to be set up with Z car specific(lugcentric) spacers to arrive at ZERO offset... You are not likely to get anything wider than a 225 between the strut and the wheelwell... The Z car uses LUG-CENTRIC mounting... that means that the lugs are the only things centering the wheels on the hubs... that means the spacers must be CAREFULLY CHOSEN to avoid failure of the lug studs... DO NOT USE AUTO PARTS STORE SLOTTED SPACERS... and obviously you cannot stack spacers to get the right thickness....

Hate it when that happens... I managed to nearly destroy a set of Toyo RA1s I purchased in Jan.(a month ago)... I hope they make it through the March event at Road Atlanta... I might run my street tires the first day... At this rate I will end up needing 3 or 4 sets of race tires this season...

Well.. To be honest... JT1s car... as well as Mayolives' RedBird are classed SPO with our events... That class is kind of a dumping ground for highly modifieds... ANYHTING could happen in SPO... someone could show up with a jet powered VWBug and hand everyone their asses... It is impressive how little JT1 has actually done to his car... for it to take FTD at will... He could unbolt all of his modifications and return the car to original condition in less than a week...

I really like sport compact car... They have produced some really neat articles in the past... They seem to lean more towards the track days HPDE events lately... I can remember years ago the only thing they wrote about was drag racing Hondas... I feel like drag racing and horsepower numbers for drag cars are pretty hard to sort out... But lap times in an HPDE or TT event should be something that can be compared with other cars fairly easily... You have so many opportunities to get consistent times on a closed circuit course... If it is a hot day and my tires get greasy after 5 laps.. thenI try to get my best laps in early... before the tires get hot. It it is a cold day and my tires wont warm up.. I drift a few turns to try to get some more heat... If it is raining then you are SOL... but they had at least one completely dry day to run in the article...

Granted.... The article does say that they had misting rain conditions during the last day... but the pictures show relatively dry conditions... and they clearly state that Saturday was DRY all day... I would expect misting rain to add a few seconds to my times... but I had to contend with sub freezing temps and tires that NEVER warmed up... just listen to them HOWLING in my video... That would still put us very close in times... within 2 seconds...

Wheelman^^^ That is a fantastic price ($100)... Those push on clampless connectors would also provide great resistance to extrusion failures... I like them.. especially for that price...!!!