bjhines

Hey ... Don't forget that most of the folks with really functional but inexpensive cars... have been reworking the old Datsun parts one thing at a time for years... You might wan't to get a feel for the stock 240Z and some basic suspension mods... you can run surprisingly fast with a slightly modified 240Z... Here is a 1972 240Z with the stock drivetrain.. 2.4L engine and 4 speed with open diff... I can hang around with some pretty fast cars... Street prepared modifications... Once you get the idea of how the stock car performs.. you may have some very good ideas of how to make the most fun for your $$$... Then you can get into the serious modifications of the car... The problem is... If you intend to drive it on the street then you will have a completely different set of circumstances than that of a trailer queen track car...

LOL... Good way to learn... That is pure lack of respect and ignorance... A guy I went to highschool with.... once turned the ignition off in order to make the car backfire(to scare some bystanders)... unfortunately he swerved towards them and then realized the steering locked as he ran right into a $3000 light pole... and totalled his Cavalier... It took similar lack of respect for what he was doing... Once when I was very new to driving.. I tried to shut the car off and coast into my parent's driveway... incognito like... As soon as I turned into the driveway I realized the steering wheel had locked... That threw me into a panic and I ended up blowing the horn and waking my dad up... I didn't hit anything though.. It was a good learning experience...

About those steering shafts.... I have found no one selling the correct U joints to mate to our steering boxes... regardless of cutting and splicing the steering shaft... I need to replace the U-joint that fits on the steering pinion shaft... If someone really wanted to get creative they would buy a box of servicable Ujoints and have them custom broached... Diameter is no problem.. It is the damn spline count..The closest available parts fit Toyota Land Cruisers and they have one too many splines... No GO...

And you have figured out that the 1973 model is a bastard year for the wiring diagrams... It is most like the 1974 260Z... except the connectors look more like the 1972 240Z models... Use the later 260Z diagrams... You will also notice that the 1973 models have a lot of "addon" electrical subharnesses... They later included the wires into the main harnesses.. The nice thing about the 1973 years is that many of the addons can be easily removed... The entire starter/alternator FUEL-CUT relay system can be removed all the way to the starter terminal... The entire EGR harness can be removed except for one green wire that runs to the front left clip for an EGR vac solenoid...

In your picture: The top left is wiper delay and it makes the wipers wipe a few strokes when you hit the WASHER button... There is a whole crapload of wires running to the wiper switch on the column... There are actually 2 of these 2-connector relays/time switches...(one is wiper delay and the other is washer intermittant) The top right is the AIR-CON relay.. which is redundant if you don't have air conditioning... It's coil circuit is in the fuse panel(AIR-CON) 20amps.. but that only runs the coil to the relay(.3amp).. The switched relay circuit is the ACUTAL power feed to the blower(direct from BATT+)... The actual blower fuse is located behind the center control panel on the right side of the dash.. It is one of 2- 20amp inline fuses.. The blue/red stripe wire I believe.... The BOttom one is the accessory power relay... It is switched by the ACC circuit in the fuse panel(It has a separate fuse in the fuse panel for the switched side of the relay... ======================================================== There is also a small round can... that is the EGR stone cold temp. switch There are also 2 starter CUT relays and a companion relay to the EGR relay on the firewall passenger side...

After trying a few things out... I decided that I did not want the stuff that collected in my original can(or dripped from the breather)... back in my oilpan... My car does not consume more oil now than before the exhaust venturi was hooked to my top vent...

If it has SU carbys... the "choke" mechanism is not doing it's job... The Carbys are notorious for becomming IMPOSSIBLE to deal with in cold weather... Never fear.. Help is here... www.ztherapy.com If you are a competent DIYer then this forum can help with details... but there is some stuff to learn first... The SU carbys are different than most in many ways... They do not have a choke mechanism the way most carbys do... what they do have does not work well at all... They do not have an accelerator pump that squirts fuel when you press the pedal(no way to cold prime) They are some of the simplest carbys but they can get surprisingly hard to get right...

Hmmmm.... $400 PER CORNER is definitely in the upper end of what you can spend.... We have been over the camber plate ideas before... But I must say the the EMI plates offer a few degrees of extra caster adjustment in addition to the camber adjustment... and they use the stock tower holes... A few things I dislike about the EMI type plates are 1. they bend the spring sideways which will wear the upper threads of the threaded sleeves OFF.... 2. They are held in place by only 2 screws... there is not much clamping force on the plates to the towers... I have not see any evidence of rocking... but the plates could be prone to cracking the tops of the towers or the fasteners.... The EMI plates are only adjustable in steps(switching bolt holes).. but I have adjustability in several areas... so not a problem for me...

Insurance companies try to pay replacement value for any car that gets more expensive to fix than to buy in similar condition... Our problem comes only from the fact that we try to insure our vehicles for the least money.... and then we are offended when the insurance company trys to replace our Hybrid Hot Rod with a rustly old clunker... And the cost to repair a person is so much higher than the costs of our Hot Rods.. even the nicest examples... Keep the injury and other property damage coverage in the 1,000,000 range... That rusty old clunker grandma is going to cost you 300,000 dollars sir... Your Hotrod is only worth 40,000...

It vents the tank and can relieve crankcase vacume... It's port to atmosphere was originally located in the aircleaner...

They are pretty simple.. I chunked mine into a bath of carby cleaner and blew it out... Works as advertised...

Hmmm... I never like to see shipping so high that it more than doubles the cost of the item... screw that seller...

WHOAAAAA... No draincleaner please... If you want to get the job done right... take it to a shop that repairs radiators... they can clean out the lines, rinse the tank, and coat the inside with a rust inhibitor... There have been problems with the 280Z tanks where hte fuel pickup breaks off inside the tank... Then the car won't run on less than half a tank...

I have triple Webers with a modified TWM intake... I use the factory 240Z PCV and flow control valve... Instead of venting the top cover vent into the aircleaner like factory.. I hooked up an exhaust venturi and use it to positively draw fumes from the top vent as well... I manage to keep a slight crankcase vac at all times... My metal headgasket no longer seeps oil...

I think the wheel offset is the same... It is the backside offset of the brake-disc hat that must change... The 240Z and 280Z front discs are different part numbers...yes? The 280Z hubs are considerably THICKER than the 240Z hubs.. otherwise the wheel face mounts in the exact same position...

I must say... something that has not been addressed in this thread... All of the manuals available for the S-30 cars contain all of the emissions diagrams and routing... they also have a cut away veiw of the FCV... and a full explanation of how the system and it's individual parts operate... You should hook everything up as it was designed...

Just running it to the intake is a bad idea... You need the variable flow restriction properties of the PCV valve... Run the bottom crankcase vent tube to the factory PCV valve(just like stock)... The top vent can be vented to a catch can(originally it went to the aircleaner)... I originally stuck a breather filter on my top vent.. It made a mess... my metal headgasket also seeped oil badly... This complete evac system eliminated blowby-gas contamination in my intake(under power)... The engine always gets a clean-unadulterated supply of fresh air through the cabys when I stomp it to the floor... There is no blow-by contamination of my mixture from the PCV valve or the top vent dumping into the aircleaner... I also insulated all the fuel lines, I also used a return line to avoid dead ending the fuel flow... this keeps a constant supply of cool fuel to the float bowls... constant unrelenting vacume on the crankcase from the top and bottom vents has eliminated my engine mess... and ensured the best possible and cleanest F/A mixture...

That copper line is silver soldered

I use the "flow control valve"(FCV) as a vacume breaker for my superduper crankcase vent system... I have Hooked the small nipple on the crackcase tube to the flowcontrol valve... I hooked the fuel tank vent tube to the flowcontrol valve.. and I used a small filter on the last remaining nipple on the FCV... My PVC hose is routed normally... lol..to triple Webers... I hooked the TOP valve cover vent to a check-valve, then a metal tube to an exhaust venturi welded into the collector... Low speed: At idle, cruise, or decel the PVC valve draws fumes into the intake... the exhaust venturi is only somewhat effective at idle(but not zero) High speed: At wide open throttle(WOT) the exhaust venturi draws a fairly steady low vac(with high volume) under a wide range of RPMs(with a freeflow exhaust system) The PCV valve stops functioning under low intake vac conditions... Under all conditions: The small nipple on the large crankcase vent tube runs to the flow control valve(FCV) port... The flow control valve will bleed air into the crankcase from 2 ports... the tank port opens and pretty much stays open under all conditions(both ways)... the second port originally ran to the aircleaner.. this opens to atmosphere in order to break high crankcase vacuum and allow tank ventillation.. The engine pulls a strong vac under a variety of conditions... I have low oil consumption... a positively vented tank(less fumes).. a clean engine(even with the normally weapy metal headgasket) and decent vac with an aggressive cam and triple DCOE 45 152 on a TWM manifold.... vrmm VROOOOOMMMM..... ...

I am also a wiring specialist... low voltage TV studio... The wires from BMW have a very tough outer sheath on the insulation jacket... That wire is tough as nails... not very flexible though... It is similar to the MILspec cable available through aircraft suppiers... HIGH$$$ stuff... and hard to find locally... The wire and parts could easily be worth $40 plus labor to assemble.. BMW did a good job with assembly as well... That said.. I would start from scratch on anything I wanted to show off... Milspec cable... Multi colored-custom printed heat-shrink tubing... Braided scuff protectors and braided mounting pigtails... Multipin, O-ringed, alloy bodied connectors... Silicone witch's-hat grommets Braided nylon overwrap(snakeskin) on entire harness with silicone overwrap on the engine bay harness...

I would be interested in the power window conversion writeup... This site is more performance oriented... www.classiczcars.com would be a better crowd for this... they have put some nice interior mods on that site..

There are a few points that I need to discuss with the A2 operators again... 1. I am requesting a packet with more detailed information about the tunnel calibration and techniques... for some of the outside engineers involved... 2. I need to get some more details on the pressure gradient testing apparatus in order to budget time for a gradient map of the hood... We have already budgeted a minimal mount of time for testing flow through brake ducts, radiator inlet, and engine compartment vents... Additional testing for alternate hoods and hood vents is still on the table... Now you guys want to get a pressure map of the hood... My my, how the time flies... and the 500ft spool of vinyl tubing and fittings... lol.. JK... Though the list can get very long indeed... You guys have to remember that we might ditch testing of alternate hood designs and vents in order to get a map of pressures on a stock hood... That does not mean you can take that information and use it to determine what real effect any modifications might have... It WILL give you a good idea of what might work... but then you would crave the actual flow data on the factory 280Z vents... It might be better to test the actual-available modifications FIRST... Then move on with improved designs in a second-future test date...

The idea behind the sheet metal stainless steel anti rattle kit is to minimize pad pushback... VVVVV All of the other designs are earlier attempts at keeping the pads under slight tension to reduce noise and rattle... The problem is... they can increase the amount of pad pushback... This can reduce pedla feel and make the pedal seem loose on initial application...

Welll... Everything depends on everything else... some hub designs with high offsets can interfere with the steering arms and brake calipers... sometimes wheels can be chosen to address this problem... You are going to have to mock up your S-14 suspension first... find the limitations and then decide on wheels... Generally speaking... 17x10" with 5"-5.5" back spacing are a good choice on S-30s with coilovers and short flares like the ZGs... even then... there are many variables that are hard to account for until you have ecerything mocked up... For instance... The AZC rear 5 lug conversion uses thicker rear hats as the 5 lug adaptor... this will mess with your offsets... If you are not building the entire car to suit a particular wheel then you need to buy the wheels LAST!!! Suspension, brakes, bodywork must be completed before you know what you need.... For a track car it will help to have the same wheels and tires on all 4 corners so you can rotate them...

sorry... I'm not trying to be harsh.. but at this point... The whole thing has run round and round the maypole... the entire description of the problem is contradictory... I don't think there is any problem except for driver inexperience... if a caliper is sticking.. none of the symptoms have been described.. (pulling to one side, vibration etc..) ABS is a HUGE crutch.. and one that many drivers have never been without...