bjhines

Ohh... and it weighs 3lbs 3.7oz without the energy suspension mount or the hardware... It took an entire evening to complete ~5 hours with paint dry time... It would take another few hours to actually install it.. no more than it would take to replace the original mount and strap...

I have seen this mount on Pete's site for years... http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm I made my own out of 3/16" instead of 1/4" plate... It was pretty easy to do... I had a local shop shear off 1" and 3" strips 18" long... this makes assembly easy... I cut the neccessary pieces to assemble the mount and beveled the edges to be welded together... I suppose you could band saw the side pieces in one plate with no welds... That would probably be better in hindsight... I was really tempted to punch lightening holes in the sides as well... I decided to leave them alone considering I reduced the thickness of the stock to 3/16"... This piece could get really artsy for someone who wanted to spend some time on it (lightening holes, fancy center web, one piece sides, having it bent on a brake insted of welded, etc)... The design Ron Tyler came up with is easy to put together... and many folks have 1" and 3" stock in the scrap bin... I like the design... It won't crack your crossmember... It holds the rubber in compression insted of ripping it apart... If the rubber does fail the crossmember will catch it... if the entire mount fails it will simply press against the tunnel(It wont go far and it spreads loads)... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- POLY MOUNT #3-1108 The poly mount is an Energy Suspension 3-1108 to fit GM vehicles... It has a plate that comes with it... The instructions state that it preloads the mount... not much though... maybe 3/16" of pull down.. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Clearance and modifications: This may be different on some cars... mine is a 1973 240Z... The assembly needs some clearance work in several areas... The mount does not fit close enough to the nose of the differential to simply bolt up... I took some measurements and figured I could drum sand the mount enough to get a good close fit without compromizing the integrity of the mount... If you simply stack washers to clear it you may have contact with the lower crossmember.... I will add one 1/2" flat washer on each side between the mount and the nose to get a slight preload on the mount... The holes on the poly mount needed a little grinding to allow the slightly narrower bolts on the diff nose to fit... I glued some clipped washers on them to make it easier to assemble later... The tranny tunnel fits this thing like a glove... you really must grind the outside welds flush on your mount... The muffler hanger inside the tunnel must be clearanced as welll... ...

You can grind a little off the fins... There are some wheels that simply wont fit... I have a set of flat faced wheels that are correct off set and width for my set up but they simply won't clear the large Toyota calipers... I have 2 other sets that work just fine though... 15x7-Zero offset with a 225/50/15 is the widest I can run with stock type springs and rolled rear fender lips...

Hehe... "off topic" You have to consider how people use this information... Bad user(scolded for not searching): Many people do not know if there is a good answer to their question... or if the answer is on this site... or if the question is worded correctly... Plowing and troughing through search results can literally take hours... If it does not come up on the first page of results... people move on... or ask a question. Good user: Once people have been lurking around with thousands of questions and gradually reading Q and A as well as debates.... they get an idea of which forum has the best results... they tend to gravitate towards that forum and pick through it's archives... as well as contribute information themselves... You can't blame people for asking questions??? there is no bad question... just bad responses in most schools of thought... It seems that a frat mentality can develop... The group can become unfriendly and impatient with folks who are passing through... asking routine questions from the group... This is a HIGHLY technical group... it seems to me that there are a LOT of hard facts in these posts... but the exchange of information has become almost personal between a relatively small number of posters... you guys know what is on the site.. you have seen or contributed to it before.. it is easy to find the answers using the search engine because you know EXACTLY what question to ask...

Ohhh... DON't use degreaser on hydraulic parts... USE BRAKE CLEANER... You don't want to mix chemical types in these systems... treat it like a brake system when you handle and clean parts...

You have to keep in mind that turbos usually add to the unreliability factor... not to mention the sheer effort involved in tuning and tweaking... V-8 carbed all the way...

It was a 2 dimensional model... They used 2 plates of plexiglass with a stick outline of the car sandwiched in between... The fluid is water, glycol, or oil with glitter... It is common to model highspeed airflow on a smaller scale using a liquid... the inside of the car is open for simplicity sake... although there are openings in roughly the same locations as the firewall and radiator pan... they are more concerned with how the car moves air out of the way... I see that the windshield area builds up a lot of turbulence in front of it... I can also see that vortexes break off and flow over the roof and disturb air all the way to the rear... It also appears that airflow over the roof and hatch are pretty similar until about halfway down the hatch... there it begins to break away... The rear clip has flow from top and bottom turning around and hammering the taillights and hatch rear edge with high speed airflow... We KNOW this is true in full scale... this has been documented by literally THOUSANDS of owners complaining about exhaust fumes... I am so tempted to make my own 2D model.. It would be fairly easy using plastic strips and plexi glass... I would not be too hard to figure out which liquid and flow speed is the best for this type of model... You could test rear lips, angles, heights and see how that really affects airlfow behind the car... I am building my new car.. Someone take this up.. I don't have time....

Here is a movie that has a 3 second clip of airflow over the S-30

WOW!!! There have been several SUPER Z cars comming out recently... I can't wait to get mine done.. I am afraid my bodywork will not be nearly as nice... That is one of the best looking G-Nose cars I have seen yet... I love the nosework with the flares... that is spot on.. clean... I am truly floored.. And it looks like there are quick release fasteners along the bottom edge... for an extension lip I am sure...

You should flush/bleed the system every year or two... to get rid of moisture... even if it sits in the garage.. the fluid will accumulate moisture over time... unless it is silicone based... A common problem is maladjustment of the pedal pushrod... The manuals state the method for attaining proper adjustment.. follow it to the letter and it will feel great...

A thought I have had comes from a wind tunnel film showing the airflow over a mid 1960s pickup truck... The nearly vertical windshield with the upper trim overhanging it was tossing air up soo fast and turbulently that it disturbed air several feet above the roof arcing back... The clip was comparing that with a mid 90s design showing that overall the airflow was smoother with the tailgate closed... the late model windshield and roof cut the air with minimal disturbance so that the tailgate actually made a real difference... I wonder just how smooth the airflow on the S-30 roof really is... it might pay to realize that the Mitsubishi windshield is much lower angled... the transition to the roof is flush... they can make use of air flowing very near the surface of thier roof... We may find that such small-short VGs show no effect... It might make more sense to address the front edge of the S-30 roof more than the back edge... The S-30 roof's rear-edge is a smooth transition anyway... as a side note... apparently the closed pickup bed traps air and acts like a tonneu cover.. bringing the air flowing over the roof more smoothly back into line... with the tailgate open the vertical rear window created a huge billowing vortex behind the cab that increased drag and incresed niose...

Looks nice... I don't know if 1" .065 is going to give much more strength... there is more to the rockers than just an inside and an outside stamping pinch welded together... there are several inner stampings at the front and rear... Tubing would need to be tied in to all of the rocker structure... It would be a neat project for sure...

Well... I finally completed the front end triangle brace... Whew.. A little snag along the way.... When I tightened the firewall brace bars.. I noticed that they did not cinch up quickly... they were bowing the middle of the firewall pretty easily... Well... I wanted to use the original windshield wiper mechanism and dashboard... I already made a few decisions early on that were making this particular part of the car hard to deal with... I used some 1" DOM tubing to span the distance between the factory gussets inside the wiper tray area... I reinforced the gussets with 14g plates and I welded the tubing along the firewall, top lip, and ends... The right side gusset completely spans the inside of the wiper tray front to rear, top and bottom.... unfortunately the left side stops way short of fully supporting the tray... I decided to make a stiffener plate that would spread the loads to every part of the left wiper tray box... top bottom and sides... ...

I think you covered them all... I was planning on a NASCAR type spoiler... a rear lip made of aluminum... adjustable...

I owuld assume there is more lift on the area in the blue box

Let talk in wing terms a minute.. even though it can confuse things. As soon as the smooth flowing air separates from the upper surface of an airplane wing.. it stalls... it looses lift... Sticking air to the upper surface would make the wing harder to stall and therefore IMPROVE LIFT... Stick the air to our Z-car upper surface and you increase LIFT...

quote from my post earlier... ""As far as small stick-on vortex generators go... the more you do to ensure air stays attached to the rear deck... the more LIFT(upforce) you will generate there... they(VGs) may increase the effectiveness of a shorter rear-lip-spoiler... but that might not actually achieve anything useful considering there is even more lift on the rear hatch window..."" The whole idea of the VGs is to keep airflow smooth and attached to the upper surface of the wing... Laminar flow is low drag and can provide the most lift... for an airplane... To agree with you JM... the VGs would increase the effectiveness of a short rear lip spoiler... just like they increase the effectiveness of the flaps on a plane... by keeping air STUCK to the surface... thereby increasing lift... WE WANT DOWNFORCE ON OUR CARS... SO the VGs are a double edged sword.. they increase LIFT(upforce) on the hatch window by sticking airflow to it.... but they make the rear lip spoiler more effective and increase DOWNFORCE there... My argument is that there is no net gain in DOWNFORCE... VGs may reduce drag.. as long as some other factor doesn't negate that as well... I will argue that VGs may not even help reduce drag... because of the 2 huge vortextes running down the left and right edges of the hatch and sails... FENCES along the roofline and hatchline might really improve the overall performance of any aerodynamic modifications... The problem with perspective comes from the fact that these devices are used to INCREASE LIFT on airplanes... the roof of our car is the same shape as the top of an airplane wing... but WE DONT WANT MORE LIFT... OUR analog to airplane FLAPS would be our rear lip spoiler... BUT IT TURNS THE WRONG WAY (UP!!)... so again anything you do to improve airlfow behind the car is going to be really turbulent due to the use of that rear lip to increase downforce... The more effective the rear lip.. the more drag it will induce...

well... If the air detaches... it will provide less lift... If the air stays attached it will provide more lift... this is right out of small plane aerodynamics... A stalled wing provides great drag and less lift... My statement earlier will make more sense in this light..

I don't want to upset the apple cart... but it would seem that there are some lines of thinking that need to be addressed... correct me if im wrong.... Hatch area: ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The problem: 1. The stock configuration would seem to achieve lift on the upper-middle of the hatch window.... This is due to the fact that air does not detach from the rear deck until very far aft.. ~ 2/3rds the way down the hatch... 2. There is spillover air from the sides... creating vortexes on either side following the top of the sails and hatch seams... these create drag and may further contribute to lift... they may also disrupt air flowing over the rear hatch and negate some lift there by detaching flow a little earlier... 3. Air comming up from underneath the car is turbulent and mixes with semi detached air spilling down the rearmost portion of the hatch and the sides.... this creates drag.... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The solutions: We have seen a lot of different attempts at aero-bodywork... Obviously there is differentiation between race car and street car bodywork... Lip spoilers: The rear lip spoilers do not attempt to address the problems with rear end lift caused by the very smooth roof and low sloping rear hatch... they use some of that still attched airflow to create downforce at the extreme rear end of the car... So.. the lip spoilers create downforce in the most effective place... in an attempt to negate some of the lift in the upper-middle of the hatch... Obviously there is some air separation that far down the hatch... soo a taller rear lip will grab more smooth flowing air and create even more downforce... this is a good trade off... it is also astheticly pleasing... I doubt that a rear lip spoiler shorter than 3" would have any real effect... shorter spoilers may not even disrupt enough smooth airflow to cause any measurable drag... Upper deck spoilers (Supra type): These were used to separate airflow early to negate some of that rear end lift... I dont know what surprises that approach might hold for drag coefficients... and I imagine that a tall rear lip spoiler would actually create more rear end downforce... I do know that those cars had a high rear clip and the use of a tall lip spoiler would have interfered with rear end visibility... I imagine that the roof lip was a trade off to ensure good visibility... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- As far as small stick-on vortex generators go... the more you do to ensure air stays attached to the rear deck... the more lift you will generate there... they may increase the effectiveness of a shorter rear-lip-spoiler... but that might not actually achieve anything useful considering there is even more lift on the rear hatch window... also consider that the use of a "Supra type" upper lip in conjunction with a "BRE style" rear lip may not be very effective at all... the supra lip separates airflow early causing the BRE spoiler to be less effective... I have seen land speed cars with parallel "dorsal fins" attched to the sides running from the roofline to the rear of the car... these are there to keep the side vortexes from forming and causing instability at high speed in crosswinds... These are probably very effective.. but they look absolutely horrible... no one even considers them because they change the side profile so much... There are many more but I am tired...

I have never seen anything but hand operated control cables...

quote: "to me i call a "true" blower the kind that mount on top of your engine with carbs/ or FI. forcing air and fuel" now you are getting into 2 more subcatagories of superchargers... positive displacement compressors vs axial flow/centrifugal compressors The "tuned pipe" on small 2 cycle engines is an acoustic compressor... You are also bringing up draw through vs blow through intake configurations... don't forget diesels are direct injection they just have a compressor and a plenum... no throttle plate... NO NOTHIN... so they really don't count in this particular context...

High velocity flow past the pressure port might be causing it to read low... I am using a holley red pump back at the tank... and I run a nice new mechanical pump as a redundant backup and regulator... all with the original fuel rail... ....

As I recalll the retail was several thousand dollars... It comes complete... all the bells and whistles.. Procell bladder 90% cut foam filled powdercoated 16g shell high$$ internal sump with CNCed aluminum flapper doors twin dual redundant Walbro high pressure FI pumps.. 58PSI regulator with twin feed INSIDE the sump round access port for pumps and sump and AN-6 fuel outlet oval access port with 2.5" fill with rollover valve, 1.25" fill vent with rollover valve, AN-6 equalizing vent I am adding a fuel level sender and a return line www.fuelsafe.com/pdf/Police.pdf This is a magazine article discussing the ATL version of this cell.. they are EXACTLY the same... http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/atl_fuel_cell_overview_5700_race_engine/ It is Part number XC115A-M 15 gallon I'll have to get the dimensions... It is a standardized size and shape though... pretty much the stock car small tank... I know it is the same as other's

hehe... everybody is gonna critique my welds... messy I know... but this is a learning experience.. It is easy to weld 2 similar .125" pieces together... It is a whole different animal welding to all those different thicknesses... Of course.. A TIG would make things much nicer all around.. I am stuck with a cheap MIG unit...

Here is what I did... more to reinforce the sway bar bracketry than anything else...