bjhines

ok other than... someone has actually done that to create a show car.... Texas Z??? do have triple webers... have you ever worked on triple Webers... do you know anyone who actually got them to work correctly under a variety of conditions..???... much less a TURBO application???? I have a folder STUFFED FULL with notations and reciepts for parts from 3 distributors.. and that is just for track tuning(main, float, and accelerator circuits)... I still don't have streetability(low speed circuits) entirely worked out to my satisfaction.... You cannot deny that Webers are hard to tune to perfection.. and adding a tubo will make it even harder... you won't be able to push the limits without detonating a few motors along the way.. there are ZERO safety systems to keep from destroying the engine.... at the very least you would need to use MS for it's ignition management system...

Miata

I gotta say it... TPS????

Manga Widnight is fantasy... even if someone mocked up that set up... The Webers are temperature and altitude sensitive... infinitely adjustable also assumes you have an infinite amount of money and time... After a year of tuning and retuning for sesonal differences.... you will have a tacklebox full of jets, airbleeds, E-tubes, and gack... and a notebook full of calibrations sorted by temperature, barometric pressure, and altitude for every place you run your car.... Add TURBO to that and it probably gets worse... much worse... You can modify the Weber carbys to run a blow through turbo... but an airbox does the same thing... in any case you will need late model plastic floats, rubber gaskets, and quite a few odd sized custom drilled jets..... You will be working outside the range of conditions the carbys were designed for... by a long shot...

There are vent lines to and from the vapor tank on the passenger side rear quarter.... one of those lines runs though the rear frame rail and is a bugger to get through the hole... I used a string with a shop vac to get a "pull line" through and then used that to pull the new line in place.

I don't like the quality of the MSD boxes... I have had trouble with 2 of them... in 2 different applications... What customer support??? I never had them offer to send me a new box after the relatively short warranty ran out... I am all for buying any others out there on the market... I have an MSD blaster 2 coil that has terrible corrosion inside the High tension tower....This was never exposed to water spray as far as I can remember... I think there was a problem in the plating process that allowed caustic chemicals to stay on the metal contacts... I have had no other corrosion related problems in that particular car... There is nothing special about those ignition boxes... they are not nearly as expensive to manufacture as the retail price would reflect... It is high time someone started offering a more reasonably priced alternative.. then MSD will have to lower their prices... I have removed all MSD related products from my current track toy...and I do not miss them at all.... except the rev limiter...

It does not bond well to other materials... different expansion characteristics, stress risers from diferent materials, etc... They can't glue in a bunch of metal bearing surfaces and rely on them staying put...

as far as the diff member iterference... you turned it around backwards... so you have to cut away that side just like the other side... your control arm wont hit the frame under most circumstances... I dont think you will have a problem...

the wheel wells are a low pressure area.. you were directing air into areas that could use the airflow as well.... It sounds like you directed air that was going under the car to the wheels wells where it escaped out to the sides...

Reread above post.. I tried to cover all the bases... And no.. you don't drive a 240Z like a Porsche or a Corvette... you just don't....

JM... all of these things are to increase downforce... at first this cancells lift.. but if you keep improving things you will end up with net downforce.. which will at some point have to be accounted for with stiffer springs... AIR DAM, hood slope, redirecting radiator cooling air, rear diffuser, side skirts, rear spoilers, etc... they all increase downforce... you cannot look at these as 2 different effects... reducing lift and increasing downforce are the same thing... it just depends on how you approach it and how far you go... A true inverted wing with end caps is what a Formula car IS... they dont have an airdam to speak of... they use the top and the bottom to work like an upside down wing... this is impossible in a passenger car... The front and rear of the car are in line with each other when turning a sweeper at speed... unless you like to exit corners overrotated.... then you would be going less than 45MPH anyway... The sides of the car are not presented to direct airflow when turning...A 5MPH crosswind on a straight would have more effect than turning at speed.. If you have trouble imagining this then look at an overhead picture of a long train... the front and rears of the cars pass over the same points....even when turning... I grant that a car only steers with the front wheels so there is a slight difference in the front and rear track.. but it is measured in millimeters in a fast sweeper.... NOT NOTICABLE... even Formula cars make NO provision for this.. Nismo280Zed... I understand... I like the ideas for underbody panels... They are cool as hell... I had an MR2 with a great deal of underpaneling... but it had gill vents over most of it's surface area to allow air that passed through the radiator to ecape under the car... I agree with you... unless you completely seal the underpanel it wont cause you any trouble... if nothing else the radiator cooling air will run down the tranny tunnel... But.. what will probably happen is this... The S30s take in WAY TOO MUCH AIR throught the GIANT grill opening... if you impede flow with too much well sealed unpaneling you can force that air to escape elswhere... like into the passenger compartment through any hole or crevice.. BlueovalZ has the radiator air comming up out of the hood... as with the new Lotuses... I have seen folks cut out the sheet metal between the inner fender and the outer wheel wells.. near the batt tray and the clutch master... to allow extra air to escape into the wheel wells... this keeps underhood temps lower... especially when you add an under tray that goes past the front crossmember... I wish I could find a set of pics I took... they show some varied approaches to reducing airflow into the grill opening... one idea was to make a mask that blocked most of the flow except an adjustable slit at the crease between the mask and the top edge of the airdam...It looked like a Z car with a hockey mask... ugly... another is the Gnose... if it wasn't so damn ugly... the gnose helps with downforce on the front end because it pushes more air over the car...it's front edge is much lower than the stock hood... Lowering the front edge like this is the best approach...It pushes the air up over the car in a more gradual manner than forcing it to part to both sides... and it keeps the grill opening much smaller...

the low mounted splitter that sticks out a few inches in front of the airdam is there to further reduce air going under the car(without sacrificing anymore ground clearance).. the primary purpose of an airdam is to reduce air going under the car... If your next question is "how does that thin sheet metal (edge on) into the wind help reduce air under the car..?????"""".... Then I suggest you read one of the many books available on automotive aerodynamics... You guys are missing soo many points in this that it is getting herd to respond in short posts... The wings on the sides are there to reduce vortex induced drag... again.. if you have to ask.. it is beyond the scope of this forum... The rear diffuser has 2 critical components... it expands exponentially in the vertical plane... and it expands linearly in the horizontal plane... the vertical strakes must reach low to the ground from front to rear to trap air in their expanding troughs... Side skirts block air rushing under the car from the sides..... It does not have anything to do with turning the car.. or air entering while turning... The low pressure under the car that was caused by the airdam will draw air rapidly under the car from the sides. The more effective your front airdam is.. the more effective/necessary side skirts will become... If you block airflow from the radiator and engine compartment with a sealed underbelly pan.. your car will overheat...granted.. it is unlikely that you could block all airflow from the engine compartment... but I was making a suggestion.... All of these answers are a $20 book.. or a trip to a university library away... You guys will notice a few more neat tricks once you understand what is actually going on under your car...

lol.....

This is very cutting edge guys... good work... there are soo many ideas... There are just too many expensive variations out there right now... In a few years HID conversions will be more affordable and they will be offered in a sealed 7" housing with high and low beams. My 1972 240Z is going to be completely exempt from any inspection whatsoever in 2007... I have to reregister my car as an Antique or Horseless carriage...But this will let me do just about ANY modifications I please...

Quote:sk8terkid ""Now would that mean that anybody on a cold morning trying to start there car with a little starter fluid because there car doesn't wanna start, is in danger of being harmed, and that there motor may blow up just because the engine was meant to run on gasoline, not ether?"" This is like watching a bunch of monkeys with a hand grenade.. Yes... it is dangerous to use ether to start your car... It will void the warranty on a new car... Ether was used in the days of the dinosaurs to start extremely low compression motors with magnetos on cold days...(the term MAGNETO is key to the need for ether)... and Diesel engines.... Ether.. and frigging brake cleaner are inappropriate in a fuel injected car period... There are soo many things that can be screwed up that way.. you don't know enough to understand. How's that AFM.. or your idle air valve.. and your bent throttle plate.... better check the EGR valve and it's control servo...brake booster and check valve??? i'll bet you popped a few vac hoses as well... you can even unseat the valve spring keepers and toss the rocker arms off their pivots... ... don't take my word for it.. go pull the pin on that grende... and your thread title says you blew up your intake with the stuff... I would consider that detrimental to the test subject(your car>>not YOU!!)

Any diagnostic test that kills the subject would be considered a FAILURE... brake cleaner... and ether... are NOT APPROPRIATE...... Your test only confirmed that you have spark and timing is acceptable... You should not have used ANYTHING other than gas... which is what your car is designed to run on... Ether is NOT an acceptable substitute... brake cleaner was never meant to be used in an engine at all... that is why they call it ""BRAKE CLEANER""... Contents vary from brand to brand... you cannot rely on what is in a can of brake cleaner.. or carby cleaner... Propane is just about your only reliable alternative... You cannot introduce liquid fuel into your intake because of your side draft fuel injection layout... Propane would allow you to meter in a small amount... Propane is the ingredient in a can of WD40 that your engine will operate on.. not the oil... PROPANE is the propellant for MANY MANY MANY MANY spray canned fluids.... But this is academic... there are numerous other ways to check your fuel system... blowing your intake to hell is not one of the accepted methods of diagnosing a relatively easy to find fault... Propane is a propellant for many things.... it is the propane you are after.. not the contents of the can.... engines will not run on WD40 alone.... try it out... get an unpressurized can of WD40.. pour it in your fuel tank and see if it runs... it will simply wet the plugs.

brake cleaner... ether... are inappropriate... It runs on gasoline... you should check for fuel(gasoline) and spark... not load it down with flammables...

It definitely makes a difference... but I don't want anyone to get the impression that it is necessary for any Z car to go fast and maintain control... I notice the biggest difference at highway speeds in strong gusts or crosswinds... the car does not get pushed around as easily... which for me is counterintuitive... I would think the the larger frontal area would get blown around more.... but I am not an aerodynamicist... There are some cool videos of really fast ... hatchback cars(like RX7s and Zs) lifting off and flying backwards at speeds over 170MPH.... They had air damns... but they did not look at the body as a whole... and they paid the price AS far as suspension and stability... I noticed a HUGE HUGE!!! improvement in stability when I finally went with solid bushings and TC ball/socket joints.... But it did not contribute as much to high speed stability... It made the biggest improvement in hard braking stability and turn in response... I did not find the urethane bushings to be much of an improvement over new stock rubber bushings...

I am seriously looking into safety wiring the ring gear bolts..... I just don't trust locktight... I have not been able to purchase the original locking compound that Nissan used... Drilling the hole was realatively easy.... The housing material is soft... it drills and taps as easily as aluminum...actually it taps MUCH BETTER than aluminum... it cuts cleanly without gouging... and it does not clog the tap... I used 6 little rare earth magnets on both sides while I was drilling... they caught EVERYTHING...I drilled the hole upside down and nose high for insurance.... I wrapped the pinion in a plastic baggie... but the magnets really did catch every bit of metal... The carrier just pops out once you remove the cap bolts... I did have to use a plastic mallet to knock it out into a plastic bin on a wood floor... that sucker is heavy and you would not want it to hit concrete.... But it is really not that bad to remove differential carriers.. the R180 style or the R200 style... I prefer to work on the R180s... they really do come apart easily...

JM.. I totally agree... I would not want to heat the fuel.... and I like your rear toe adjuster.. nice work... I just happen to have some tanks and coolers on my shelves from previous projects... I would have to find a finned cover and spend the time making the rear bracket.... I may have located a finned cover today... someone is checking for me.... If you guys know of a cheap ready source... please let me in on it...

has this been covered a thousand ways??? for 35 years??? MSA and VB sell "offset bushing kits" that are aluminum/delrin sleeved "solid" bushings... with a twist... Several people have done write ups on using heim joints AZC and MM sell custom lower control arms with heim joints and adjusters built in.... There is a commonly sold TC rod Ball/socket joint for CHEAP at MSA and VB...

331ci 280Z..... Well... It certainly is not easy to bolt on a finned cover... I think it may be easier AND cheaper to add a tank... HS30H... THANKYOU!!! for the fantastic information.... the schematic mentioned a heat exchanger... but I thought it was tied into the water system somehow... I had no idea they were using FUEL... what a brilliant idea...

Here is a picture of my car and my tow vehicle at the track a few weeks ago... Here is the back of Roddy's car.. and you can see Mark's yellow 240Z in the right hand side This picture has all 3 Triad members cars in it... notice Tom's unfortunate tirewall damage on the maroon 300ZX...

Here are some shots to see where I cut and notched it.... There are a fair number of notches and tweaks to get it tight.... you could simplify this by removing horns, grill center support, etc.... Here are some better pics of the brake ducts This is a COOOL looking rear diffuser that Darius has been working on I think that for it to work it would have to come much closer to the ground... but it is a neat idea... It could be made to work if it was easily removable for trailering...

Tilton pump with Buena seals...$179 Setrab narrow 7 row cooler... it is compact but it has a huge surface area and tiny volume... flow is good too.. It will go just behind the mustache bar.... with an air scoop with debris trap... I am still trying to decide of I should use the finned cover... I think I will jsut go with an external resivoir.