johnc

Plus it smells good too! I use Oatey Dark cutting oil.

SR240Z is selling a nice BMW M5 on this site. Check the car for sale forum.

I guess you guys missed my post above. The complete engine is available to those that pony up the money.

Well, no. I've installed lots of them on customer cars and none have had major issues. There's a thread here that myself and Tokico engineers checked out and worked with the owner to resolve the problem. Couldn't ever get it figured out and we were not able to duplicate the problem with a couple other cars.

Buy them from Arizona Z car.

The sell the entire engine for something north of $100,000. It never actually was in "production" but it has always been available to those who had the money. There just isn't a market for this except for a few collectors in Japan.

The original murdered car (murdering?)

That's about right for an engine built to the GrandAM GS ruleset. The sound a V6 engine makes is different then the sound an inline 6 makes. My 3L race engine sounded similar at high rpm but with a more raspy note. Cam and compression ratio have the biggest effect on engine sound. That's a very reasonable price given the amount of development time that went into the system and the expected market. No, the inline 6 will sound different.

Toyota Celica. My Nissan 350Z is white with black rims and black window tint. A kid told me today that my car has the "Storm Trooper" look. Not to be confused with this:

Motor oil formulations have gotten so much better over the last 20 years that these additives are completely unnecessary. Its just a waste of money and at best they do nothing.

For sale:

I agree with Jon regarding the rod ends/heims and chassis stress. I would not recommend rod ends on a primarily street driven car just from the standpoint of maintenance and inspection. They do require more attention then poly or rubber bushings and a higher standard of fabrication/installation. For my own street Zs I do not install rod ends except for the anti-roll bar end links. IMHO, you won't be able to take advantage of the additional precision that rod ends give - at least not at this point in your driver development curve. As Jon suggests, the money would be better spent elsewhere. Regarding front frame rail stiffening - only do that after you've built a nice triangulated front strut tower bar setup and installed the Bad Dog subframes. The lower part of the engine bay is stiffer then the upper part, so increasing stiffening at the top is more important.

IMHO, for track use a synthetic oil is the best choice regardless of engine mileage or condition. What's even more important is oil control through a racing pan with trap doors, baffles, windage trays, etc. or a dry sump system or an Accusump. Add in a heat exchanger too. So what? I've run a $18,000 L6 racing engine on low ZDDP oil without any problems and the engine builder said its not a concern for the OHC L6 engine. That oil weight is fine and don't use the Lucas stuff.

Let's step back a bit. How much track driving experience do you have? The reason I ask is that building a fast street/track car for a pro race driver and a regular Joe on the street is very different. A pro driver can work very well with a car that is less forgiving while the regular Joe needs a car that has a margin of safety to save his ass from stupid mistakes.

You would still have to pay for some kind of cell phone calling plan. Is that cheaper then the locator system monthly charge?

Its not needed.

This has to be a troll.

There's a LOT more that goes into that sound then just the headers and exhaust. The VQ does sound great with a single exhaust.

It really comes down to tires. A 2WD (front or rear) can only apply power through two tires that reach the traction limit around 220 degress F. A 4WD car can increase its acceleration traction limits by about 50% over a 2WD car.

No, that's not true - at least for me. What I'm saying is that, in the real world, the difference is not significant. It was very significant back in the 1980s, less so in the 1990s, and pretty much nil right now. The engineers and racers have learned what works with the FWD chassis and driveline orientation is not significant on the racetrack for an unlimited build or a build to a ruleset. I'm also arguing against the "all things being equal" strawman, which again has nothing to do with the real world and is only used as engineering masturbation on Internet message boards.

Read my first point above. You've built a straw man ("a RWD version of the same car, with the same setup") and now you expect me to debunk it. Sorry, I don't play that lazy man's game. You made the assertion, you build the car and prove your assertion true.

Ding-dong. Door opens. Aux shouts, "Trick or treat." 80 year old lady falls over dead and her little poodle craps all over the floor.

Yes. That's the 200 mph club hat that you have to earn. Not available in stores.

Bullshit. EDIT: I think I'm going to have to give myself some infraction points for that response. Sorry. To explain: 1. No cars are ever equal, even in a spec series. "All things being equal" is a lazy man's arguement. 2. A race has so many variables that you can't forecast an outcome based on driveline orientation. 3. On a timed qual lap a heroic driver can do some amazing things. 4. I've seen fairly stock track prepared Integra Type Rs beat well prepared ITS 240Zs at Willow Springs. I've seen ITA Honda CRXs beat ITS prepared 240Zs at Willow Springs. Look at the lap times for NASA's Honda Challenge series for more examples. 1:22s are frickin' fast.