johnc

Agreed. There's little specific 280ZX advice because all the advice for the 510 applies. No reason to re-type everything, just go to the 510 resources on the web.

Not needed fro Rallycross or Autocross. For track use it helps and you would only need to cool the fronts.

Tokico sells 280ZX lowering springs in their HPK255 kit.

Not really. If they can get one off, they can get 2, 3, or 4. It might even save them time because they don't have to switch from the locking nut removal socket to a regualr socket.

Left foot braking is a definite advantage in racing and driving on the street. If you're paying for the sequential transmission, you'll want to use the clutch on downshifts.

http://www.suspension.com/bjb.htm $4.00.

Yes. The car won't feel as nice coming into the corner but the lap times will be lower.

Naaaah, just disappointed. Like most, the buyer had grand plans but reality got in the way. I know where the car is and if I ever want it back (doubtful the chassis was basically worn out) I can claim it.

I think your MS installation picked up a government mind control pulse: The black helicopters are on the way to your home right now.

If its a dead shock, we're all wasting our immense analytical skills... Actually, if its a dead shock, we all get to kick Tom in the butt the next time any of us see him...

None, the car is sitting in some kid's parent's driveway in Fountain Valley rusting away. The last set of springs were 375F and 300R.

When did the chattering start? Being more prominent in long sweeping corners is when the rear suspension is full compressed and extended. Some ideas: As mentioned above, could a CV be at its angular limit binding slightly at full droop or full compression? Take the springs off the car and check how the CV feels while spinning it at the limits of suspension motion. Could a CV be pulling out of the diff (popping the snap ring) and then popping back in as the car straightens out? Pull both CVs and check for chewed up splines. A Quaife diff will make a growling noise when the inside rear is at the lower traction limit. Usually you hear the growling and then the inside rear breaks traction and spins. I had the R180 with the Quaife in my car do something similar to a chatter but dropping compression damping and rebound on my shocks eliminated that - I was picking up an inside rear in certain corners.

Yup.

I sell a 4" rise cowl hood if you need a lot of room.

The 8610 you have is an older model (haven't seen a red one in 5 years) and the adjustment only affects rebound. It might be time to get those shocks checked out and rebuilt by Koni. I'm assuming the hopping/chattering is happening at the rear of the car. Could be one of a few things (in order of likelyhood): 1. Too much compression damping. 2. Too much rear spring for the Quaife. 3. Suspension bottoming. 4. Driver's side halfshaft bottoming (if R200 in a S30). 5. Suspension binding. Try the following at your next track/test day: 1. Soften the rear adjustment. With the Quaife I think 1 to 1.25 turns off full soft is a good starting point. 2. Swap the springs front to rear if you have at least a 1" front ARB and soften the rear ARB (or disconnect it). With the Quaife the S30 will turn faster lap times with most of the roll stiffness up front and at least a 20% front spring rate bias. Corner entry will be slower but you should be able to get on the gas sooner, way before the apex.

Yup. The car was fairly soft back then (300 lb.in. front and 325 lb. in. rear).

Probably not. Dan's recommendation is a good one although I've heard that the 500 specialty car allotment got eaten up because of a lot of a new car builders around (think all the new electric car wackos that got stimulus money).

What spacers? If the front or rear lower? R200 adds 35 lbs. CVs at 15 lbs, etc. Sure there aren't any more weighty items (stereo speakers, etc.)? Where are the rear tires rubbing? Stock wheels? Are the wheels zero offset?

Stumbled across this one and thought it needed a bump.

Here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104720

Search, search, search. There are specific threads discussing the SR20 swap vs. the L6 series regarding handling. Not true.

OK, let's go through this: Per the CA DMV regulations the engine in the car must be a US spec engine. If your car goes to a referee they will know what engines would be legal and they have an engine serial number reference so they can deduce exactly what engine is in your car regardless of what country it is from. Most any any can be made to pass the sniffer test. Your JDM 1ggte might pass a visual test at a corner gas station but a knowledgeable smog tech will spot it pretty quickly. You're heard wrong. Sometimes you can get historic plates for certain vehicles but it still has to comply with all smog laws appropriate for the model year. CA DMV issues 500 specialty car registration each year. The 2010 allotment is most likely already taken. Since your chassis already has a VIN number stamped and registered, you cannot now call it a kit car. From what you're posted, there isn't a legal way to get your car registered for the road in California. I'm sure there is a way so keep looking.

Well, not really. NASCAR banned the vinyl top (actually "simulated vinyl tops") because racers were using the spray on texture to hide evidence of acid dipping. NASCAR figured this out when Petty was running a Roadrunner in 1968 and the sprayed on vinyl roof started peeling off. He got black flagged and spent two laps int he pits while the crew taped it back down. One of the NASCAR inspectors spotted the tell-tale ripples from acid dipping. Roger Penske also got caught doing this to the TransAm Sunoco Camaro and had to buy a Camaro off a dealers lot near the race track, cut the top off, and weld it onto his TransAm car so he could race the next day.

You answered your own question. Weight is everything in racing.

A few questions: 1. How much is this setup with the refrigeration unit going to weigh? 2. How much power will the refrigeration unit require? 3. Will the power increase from a cooler intake charge make up for the additional weight and power drain? 4. Will that additional complexity of the system affect reliability (leaks, maintenance, etc.)? 5. What happens if the refrigerant leaks into the intake manifold at, let's say, 6,500 rpm with 20 psi of boost?