johnc

No. Drill a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the strut with the stuck shock, spray in some WD40, PB Blaster, Rost Off, etc. and let it soak upside down for a bit. Then take a pin punch and a hammer and pound the shock out. Weld up the hole or plug it with a rubber plug.

You don't really save any weight replacing the stock 240Z fuel tank. A SCCA/FIA fuel cell with the ballistic bladder, can, etc. weighs about 10 lbs. more then the stock S30 tank. Add in the appropriate framework and cover and you're probably 20 lbs. over.

That's the 1G I mentioned in my post. The arm is seeing the acceleration loads from moving the entire vehicle mass. Sometimes people think the control arm also sees the torque loads from the driveline/wheel/tire/brake. Its not that great of a load if the rod end is properly sized and the load is a radial load. On acceleration you're looking at 1,500 lbs. of load on each side of the car assuming a 3,000 lb. car and a 1G rate of acceleration - and that's assuming the tire can generate that level of grip. A NHBB standard female 1/2" rod end has a radial load fatigue strength of 7,580 lbs. so you're never going to fatigue fail the bearing with the loads we're talking about.

That will make the mold (the dash is the plug). That doesn't make the part itself. Remember, the carbon fiber/epoxy that the bag presses on is not the finished surface.

For traction, tire compound is more important then tire width. For track use a 225/50-15 Hoosier A6 will outperform any treadwear 150 or higher street tire not matter how wide that street tire is. It will be at least equal to the current crop of autocross ST category 140 treadwear tires (Falken, Dunlop, Yoko, Bridegstone) in 275 width.

Well... no. Torque is handled by the driveline, halfshafts, etc. If braking, acceleration, and cornering is at 1G then that's the load going through the control arm. There is some amount of load applied to the front bearing from the tires toeing under acceleration and braking but that is shared with the toe link.

Yup.

The install looks fine except for the missing nuts. The additional vertical brace is basically just extra weight. Adding a Rt front diff mount would have been a much better way to spend the time and money.

Isn't this a little backwards? Wouldn't you pick a comparison ratio/horsepower target and the choose the cam to match?

Depends on the fuel cell. A SCCA/FIA approved 15 gallon cell installed per the rule books, with an aluminum sheet metal cover will run about $850. That doesn't include the cost of the cell or plumbing. Cutting the hole is the easy part. Building the frame, drilling and installing Rivnuts, and bending/fitting the aluminum cover are where the labor is.

Aaaahhh, you would just hurt yourself.

I get a few calls each month from folks wanting CF this or that for their S30 or S130. Most get upset when I tell them that the tooling will be around $1,000 and will add $100 each to the first 10 parts, $500 each to the first 2 parts, or $1,000 to the one part they want. They think I should eat the cost of the tooling and be grateful that someone gave me the "idea" to build a CF widget.

Nope. You're changing the lever arm (as mentioned above) and reducing the wheel rate. That requires spring changes and adjustments in shock valving. You're also reducing the support on the hub and giving the stub axle more leverage on the control arm pivot. As Jon mentioned above, its completely doable but a lot of work to get right. Are you building a street, drag, autocross, or road race car. If its the last two, your chances of this mod making things "better" then the stock setup are slim to none.

If this is any help: The lightened LD28 crank in my old Sunbelt 3L race engine was straightened, machined, shot peened, nitrided, straightened, balanced, and then checked again for straightness. Sunbelt actually went through two cranks before they were happy with the one that ended up in my engine. So far its still going strong with the current owner. The block used was an early N42 (supposedly because of the higher nickel content) and the bore remained at 87mm.

Absolutely right. A lightened flywheel or lightened reciprocating parts do not increase horsepower at all. The engine will make the same horsepower at steady state rpm as it did with the heavier parts. Less mass and reduced MOI increased the rate of acceleration, which is what we're concerned with.

Here's mine: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128190

Porsche 917K all dirty like this ex-Daytona 24 hour winner driven by Rodriguez and Oliver.

Goldenrod went 425.277 mph with two 4 speeds.

I wear: Nitrile gloves Mechanixwear gloves TIG Calfskin gloves MIG leather gloves Nomex lined forging gloves Kevlar gloves ...at various times while working on cars, welding, and being pit crew. Some tips: Keep you fingernails cut short. Keep a small stiff bristle brush for washing the tough stuff off your hands. Dawn dish soap works amazingly well cleaning grease off your hands. 100% Aloe Vera gel keeps the hands from cracking. Powdered nitrile gloves are easier to put on when you hands are wet. Punching a tiny hole in the web between each finger lets you squeeze the sweat out of nitrile gloves. Always stop when you cut your hand and clean the wound. New Skin is better for cuts then band-aids. Drill a tiny hole in your fingernail after you smash it to drain the blood out.

An ATI Super Damper solves a lot of harmonic problems.

The Type Bs came in later 1971 through 1978s. If you find a 4 speed with a bolt-on bellhousing, that's a Type A Roadster box or a truck transmission swapped in later in the car's life.

Parking enforcement vehicles had these scanners for at least 5 years.

I try to line up the transmission and differential when viewed from above. If the engine/transmission centerline is in line with the pinion shaft/gear centerline you've eliminated 90% of any potential driveline vibration problems.

The Type A roadster box is weak. The Type B box is as strong (some argue stronger) as any of the Nissan 5 speed transmissions up through 1983.

We're stuck on the spline profile. We can't seem to find the basic spline specs in any of the normal engineering references. Still looking though.