johnc

http://www.race-cars.com/carsold/other/1053451892/1053451892pp.htm

I keep thinking about building something similar for myself. Probably never happen...

The best bang for the buck road racer, autocross, and off road car I ever knew about was Paul's Dunestang. http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7412

I agree and that comes after spending close to $10,000 to put Penske 8760s on my 240Z. But this site is not about common sense...

Since the S30 is a lug centric design Nissan didn't spend a lot of time making sure the centerbores on the front hubs was consistently the same. I've seen variances of .100 between hubs that came off the same car.

I'll be the second. Depending on the application it can work well. A lot depends on the valving itself and the application design. KYB GR2s for the S30 are very comfortable shocks with linear valving. They rely on good, progressive bump stops to handle large bumps.

280Z rear struts are 1.25" longer then 240Z rear struts. The rear of your 240Z will be raised by that amount if you install unmodified 280Z rear strut tubes. The 280Z rear LCAs are the same dimensionally as the 240Z parts but are stronger.

Nissan Pulsar NX with a 150 shot of nitrous.

225s are fine on a 7" wide rim. Anything narrower and you'll want a 215 or a 205 as posted above.

Gonna be hard to fit the lateral leaf spring. EDIT; The aove comment was in reference to installing the Corvette front subframe.

No. A stock 240Z front suspension is better then a stock Fox (through 93) Mustang front suspension. Once you start modifying both, then they are a basic MacStrut and you can make them equally as good.

As I said above, you guys don't know much about the Fox Mustang suspension. Yes, in stock form it has no front caster, roll understeer, roll steer, and then snap oversteer when the rear suspension binds. Lowering the car without any other changes makes things much worse. Careful purchasing and installation of parts from Griggs, Maximum Motorsports, and Steeda can significantly reduce these problems. Spending a whole lot more more with Maximum and Griggs can completely eliminate these problems. And lateral Gs are a very poor measure of a car's handling. That's just a measure of grip, not how well it can get around an autocross course or race track.

Also depends on aero loading. Digressive valving can help control pitch by keeping the aero platform level when there's a lot of downforce and a bump is hit. You can build an aggressive nose on the bump curve to control the downforce and then blow off when a bump is encounterred.

You're going to ahve to focus on tire compound to get traction. Any of the drag radials will work. You can also look at the DOT-R road race tires in a soft compound. You can get the Hoosier A6 and Kumho V710 in 225/50-14.

Yup, just looked in my NHRA rule book and mounting plates are .125". SCCA is .083". See how important the rule books are...

Yes.

Since you car is going to compete with many different sanctioning bodies (NHRA, SCTA, SCCA, NASA, etc.) your only option is a custom cage. The builder will need the rules from each of these groups and will have to really study things to make sure the cage passes at least three full tech inspections. At a minimum you're looking at: 1. 1.75" x .120" wall tubing. 2. At least 8 mounting points. 3. Double door bars on both sides. 4. .125" chassis plating. 5. Gussets or corner diagonals. There is no off the shelf solution that I'm aware of.

Exactly. For racing classes where weight is an issue, then the 240Z is the better choice. For a street car it doesn't matter and the cleanest, rust free chassis you can afford it the car to start with.

Martin at So Cal Transmissions in La Habra (562) 691-1988.

Yes. Change the fluid and fix the shifter first. Search "Shifter Bushing" Check the control arm bushings, gland nut, anti-roll bar end links, wheel nuts, e-brake cable, rear brakes, insulator mount, and go buy a shop manual for the car.

Not to be too obvious, but I sell a bracket that lets you mount two Tilton MCs to the stock brake pedal and keep the stock pedal box unchanged.

Run the Tokico HPs or KYB GR2 shocks with your stock springs. Things will be fine and the ride height will be the same after driving a few miles - if it changes at all.

The Mustang 2 front suspension stuff is fine for a hot rod or a street cruiser. IMHO, they suck for any kind of performance car. I've bump steered and aligned three cars that received a Mustang 2 suspension and would not install one on a car where handling is important.

The inner bearing is made by Koyo and JAF. The outer bearing is made by SKF.

You guys don't know much about Mustangs... It would take some work to do, but you could get an aftermarket Fox chassis Mustang K-member to work. Griggs offers a SLA front suspension setup for the Fox Mustang chassis and I just put the GR40 SLA front system under a '91 LX that I'm building for a customer. It has fully adjustable custom LCAs and standard roundy-round fully adjustable UCAs with inverted Koni shocks, coil over springs, spherical bearings, big truck ball joints, billet aluminum spindles, and a pretty trick anti-roll bar setup.