johnc

Wheel wells tend to be low pressure areas and are used as outlets for front diffusers, radiator exhaust, and engine bay exhaust. Liners are used in modern cars to improve the ducting and flow from the high pressure areas mentioned above to the wheel wells. The inner liners on my 350Z have a lot of specific molded openings for the purposes I mentioned.

Yes. An anti-roll bar is a spring, just like a coil spring. It doesn't matter which end of the spring you push or pull on, you get the same force in reaction to the push or pull (Newton's 3rd Law of Motion). An anti-roll bar is a spring with one virtual lever arm which is the combined length of both physical arms.

Since you're not planning on running air to the front rotors, I would stay away from lightweight rotors. A standard Coleman or Wilwood curved vane rotor will work fine. Try to keep the thickness down. I ran .81" thick 11" curved vane vented rotors on the front of the ROD and never had a braking issue.

Carroll Smith has a couple drawings of the style I described above and I've seen them on a bunch of formula and vintage Datsun race cars. I don't have any pictures.

Usually one of the bar arms is left round and a keyway is machined into it. Then a sleeve is made that slips over the bar arm with a key that keeps it from spinning on the bar. That sleeve has two tabs or clevis' welded to it, one to attach to the end link and the other to the cable end of the adjuster levers in the cockpit. The adjuster cable sleeve is attached to the bar end via another welded on tab. Moving the adjuster in the cockpit slides the sleeve fore and aft on the bar arm changing the lever arm ratio on the bar itself

Loosening anti-roll bar end links delays when the anti-roll bar starts working and allows more initial and overall roll. It can also create asymmetry into anti-roll reaction. Other options are coil springs on the end links that soften the initial anti-roll bar rate, blade type anti-roll bar ends, and using a combination of rubber and polyurethane end link bushings.

Most folks first welding project is to build a welding cart.

Curved vane pumps more air through the rotor. Other then that, more money will generally buy you a longer lasting rotor. Cryo treatment will also extend the life of the rotor. I've always had good luck with Coleman products.

dhp123166, Congratulations! You just earned 7 days in the cooler.

Right now there are only three options for new LSDs in the R180. 1. Quaife ATB HLSD that will fit the 110mm and 115mm ID ring gear. 2. OS Giken Super Lock CLSD that will fit the 115mm ID ring gear. 3. OBX HLSD that will fit the 115mm ID ring gear (I'm not positive that this is available for the R180). Both 1 and 2 are around $1,500 each new and installation is $250 to $400 depending on how much work is needed. Both diffs are also pretty amazing units and I've run the Quaife behind my racing 240Z and I'm currently running the OS Giken behind my 350Z. The OBX is discussed here in a thread and is a good lower priced option. There are used Nissan Motorsports and Precision Gear CLSDs that pop up for sale from time to time along with used Quaife's and Torsens.

Yes, they can both be used to weld AL and stainless but no, with MIG its not just changing an electrode. You need to change out the gun and rollers to either one dedicated to AL only or use a spool gun.

Typically a 5" ride height at the rockers is about as low as you can go if your tires are 23.5" or shorter (that's assuming no relocation of the suspension mounting points). As tire OD increases, so does the ride height.

You do know that getting your S30 that low will mean it will handle like crap, right?

The Design Products 5/8" adjustable rear anti-roll bar is typically what the Vintage guys run. I've also run that setup on my old race car. For the front I just swapped back-and-forth from a 1" to a 15/16" anti-roll bar instead of making an adjustable bar. Using wheel spacers in front of different widths (1/4" through 3/4") and the two anti-roll bar sizes above gave me all the anti-roll/load transfer adjustment I needed for the front of the car.

The big trick to an aggressive drop is to keep your tire diameter as low as possible. A 14" wheel with a 205/55-14 has an overall diameter close to 22.5" which would allow a 5" ride height at the rockers assuming shortened struts.

It would reduce drag but add weight and increase (by a small amount) voltage requirements from the alternator. Your top speed would increase a bit but acceleration to the top speed might be slowed a bit. I think this is more a coolness mod then anything else. Give it a try and let us know how it works.

Could be anything with twin cams (if that part of the ad is true). RB20, RB25, RB26, KA24DE, SR20DE, etc.

Shop eBay. I've bought two welders from Indiana Welding Supply off eBay and have been very happy with the price and service.

http://www.pulpracing.com The most famous NSX on the Internet. EDIT: It would help if I could spell...

I think I got the twist wrong. Its been a few years since I saw the animation.

The strut towers don't move upwards under load. Per some FEA done by Bill Savage at T-Mag the strut towers on an S30 twist and bend inward under load. If I remember right, the driver's side strut tower twists counterclockwise and the passenger side strut tower twists clockwise as viewed from above. The twist is caused by how the strut tower is attached to the inner fender. A triangulated strut tower brace setup as pictured by bjhines is the most effective way to combat that twist. It puts the braces in tension and compression. A good setup will allow a 50% increase in front spring rate.

Sure. Never said it didn't.

I agree that a semi-trailing arm rear suspension can jack itself all over the place when you hit the brakes.

On the rear of the S30, brake torque twists the LCA and the upper strut mount. Looking at the driver's rear from the outside of the car, that twist is in counter-clockwise direction. Because of the equal and opposite reaction thing, there is an upward force at the rear of the LCA and downward force at the front of the LCA and a forward force at the top of the strut mount. All of these forces tend to cancel each other out so any net affect is small or maybe even unmeasurable. While dyno testing my old race car at Superior Automotive in Anaheim we had to use the brakes to slow the rear wheels because downshifting through the gears in a sequential transmission was the only way to get to neutral. No jacking effect on the chassis was noticed by me or anyone else when the brakes were applied. There may have been some, but its really not a consideration in the context of anti-dive or anti-squat.

OK, I see a trend here. You're confusing weight transfer with brake behavior. Brakes torque or brake application do not lift tires or suspension on any modern vehicle. The sprung mass moving around is what causes the effects you're describing. Here's a good primer: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weight_transfer