johnc

Comparing the price of oval 304 stainless tubing with muffler shop round mild steel tubing or 500 series semi-stainless makes no sense.

Are you running it inside the passenger compartment? If so, lots of issues with heat and noise. If not, big issue with ground clearance.

FYI... Roll Cage - Front and rear hoops and bars that enclose the entire passenger space including bars in the door openings. Roll Bar - Rear hoop and braces that are installed behind the front seats. I think what you're asking about is a roll bar, not a roll cage. For your four point harness mounting setup the Autopower or Kirk Racing (I sell the Kirk) bolt (or weld) in roll bars work well and are priced pretty cheap. FYI2... the only DOT approved 4 point harness is the Schroth ASM Ralley 4 which is typically around $160 new.

Prayers on the way. I hope everyone recovers quickly.

Current SAE on an engine dyno.

What Porsche does to make sure their dry sump system works:

The stock ports on L6 heads (E88, N42, E31) head flow well enough to generate an honest 200 horsepower using the stock cam, pistons, and SUs. Some work (mostly on the exhaust side) balancing flow, bumping the compression ratio to 12 to 1, and .500 lift 300+ duration cam will get you an honest 240 horsepower - still on SUs. I personally think that $1,500 would be better spent on books and tuition for your college.

I sell them, check the website below. Lowering one end of a car does not raise the other.

OK, you might still be happier with the 280Z springs, although you might have to cut them to get the ride height you want. The rates are 185F and 200F.

IMHO, the 280Z Tokico Advanced Handling Springs are the best choice for any S30. But, you might have to cut some coils when installing them on a 240Z. In your case, I think your early 260Z probably has the later 280Z struts on it. Check the strut tube OD and if its 2" then its the 240Z style but if its 2.15" then its the 280Z style.

You're not causing problems, I just don't understand what your concerns are. Is your background off road racing, rally racing, or something that really sees large suspension loads? And I'm not an expert. I'm just a monkey-see-monkey-do engineer.

Anyone with a MIG welder can do it. Give the welder the following instructions: 1. Clean, clean, clean, clean the internals after taking the diff out of the car and, preferably, out of the case. 2. Put a slight amount of opposite torque on the side shafts. 3. Turn up the heat and wire feed on the welder - set it to weld 3/8" thick steel and run the wire feed on the high side of the suggested range. 4. Put 4 big tack welds between each spider and side gear. 5. Remove the side axles. 6. Rotate the diff 180 degrees and put 4 big tack welds between each spider and side gear. 7. Rotate the diff 180 degrees and put a thick, heavy bead fully welding the spider and side gears together. If the diff is still in the case you need to be careful not to get things too hot and damage the side seals. Watch the splatter. 8. Rotate the diff 180 degrees and repeat. 9. Rotate and weld the gears to the housing using a 1" long bead for each gear. 10. Rotate and repeat. 11. Let it cool.

So, you're building a 3,200 lb. 240Z? 550 to 650 is the typical range for corner weights for a road race 240Z and you would never see the 5Gs on all four corners at the same time. I'm not sure what your argument is regarding strut tower bracing, cage design, and gusseting in a 240Z? All of the designs shown here are based on decades of racing experience with the car here in the US, Europe, and Japan with many different race sanctioning bodies. These designs are effective and efficient and have helped the cars win multiple national championships in the countries listed above. Adding bracing to solve a non-existent problem just adds weight to the car. In most cases, the 240Zs real advantage in racing is its light weight and more cage means you're reducing the car's advantage.

All of this is about two things: 1. Mass acceleration. The sooner you can get the sprung mass of the car moving in the right direction the faster you can be around a race track. If parts of the car flex (chassis) or absorb the acceleration (rubber engine/trans mounts) it delays when everything takes a set and starts moving. 2. Repeatability. The car does the same thing, the same way, in each corner. If things are flexing or moving then the wheel/tire alignment changes in an unpredictable manner.

What's the boiler made of? Can you drain it, dry it out, and weld up the hole? There are also DevCon high temp epoxies which you can get from McMaster-Carr.

We're talking about normal suspension loads from road racing, not large, chassis bending impacts.

I have no idea. Are your front and rear control arms pointing down (from inside to outside)?

Throw that wheel away.

Yes, yes, and yes.

Is the wheel center hole bottoming on the hub center?

All Outlaw calipers have a 1/8" NPT thread. 1/8 NPT to AN adapters are very common.

That's kind of the point. You WANT them to know they are being watched so the care they provide is excellent.

Proper design and engineering from Nissan. How much vertical load you think those strut towers see in a 2,400 lb. car?

Turbulent flow around a cylinder (the tire) generates low pressure behind the cylinder. Also, pressure is generally low inside a vortex tube (the spoked wheel center). In addition you have the laminar flow along the sides of the vehicle acting as the extractor (or the exhaust pipe in Jon's PCV example above).

If you go off track and its muddy, the tow truck drivers are going to throw you the rope and hook and make you get all dirty hooking the car up. Having the tow hooks on the driver's side of the car means you spend less time slogging through the mud and possibly losing a shoe. Don't ask me how I know this. EDIT: If its REALLY muddy, you can slide along the hood, hang over the front, and attach the hook from above. Just don't fall off the hood. I saw a BMW driver do this.