johnc

Equal width. Yes. If you're not willing to relocate the suspension mounting points you need to raise the car up. In your case I would go up 1.5" in front and 2" in rear at the bare minimum and add front "bumpsteer" spacers.

Having driven a 300ZXT with HICAS as an instructor during a racing school I can tell you that (at least Nissan's implementation) it induced mid-corner understeer and was very unsettling at turn-in. If it was my car and I raced it, I too would disable HICAS.

For a street car a staggered setup will handle fine - you really never get to the traction limits driving on the street. For a track car a square setup handles better. FYI... keep your overall tire diameter under 25" unless you're planning on relocating suspension mounting points. Too big a tire and too low a ride height and the car will handle poorly regardless of staggered or square.

A couple points: 1. Braking torque reacting through the caliper (assuming the caliper is behind the spindle) generates a small amount of pro-dive through the lower control arm. 2. Anti-dive is a suspension reaction to sprung mass pitch. You can get anti-dive reactions from a bad downshift, lifting off the throttle, etc.

There's been no mention in this thread of the size of the triple Mikunis. 38s would provide less power then the stock SUs. 40s can be better with 44 and 45s typical for a performance application. 50s are used for strokers making power close to and over 300 hp.

Its generally better to have them behind the spindle for weight distribution and CoG concerns. Ignore any subsequent posts regarding brake reaction "lifting" or "pulling" on the car or suspension.

I know it sounds funny, but this is a great thing! Yeah, its going to be tough for the next few months as the lawyers do their thing, but after that you've got your son back! Keep your eyes on the prize and congratulations.

His mistake was lifting off the gas when he went two wheels off track. At WSIR turn 9, if you go off track, keep your foot in it and drive towards the pits.

Rear control arms are the same on both sides. I've got one around here and you can have it for $20 if you're willing to drive up to La Habra.

No. This isn't that hard of a thing to imagine or figure out. You already done the difficult parts of the project.

You can get the mesh from http://www.mcmaster.com or grainger or maybe your local home improvement store. Bend the mesh back on itself, like the lid of a jar, and then lightly tack weld it into the intake from behind. Or, pop rivet it in place.

The YouTube poster is confusing the roll bar padding that's stuck to the roll bar with the bar itself. There's a little rock stuck between the two pieces of the padding that looks like a tack weld.

A nice shiny stainless steel mesh at the big of of the intake would look nice.

Yes, but much more so in back then in the front. The 280Z rear strut tubes are about 1.5" taller then the 240Z strut tubes. The fronts are about the same.

Well... I think its semantics. What really triggers anti anything (anti dive anti squat anti roll) is load transfer creating pitch and roll of the sprung mass. Depending on how the anti is setup in the suspension geometry, you can get anti-dive reactions in the suspension by abruptly lifting off the throttle, you can get anti-squat reactions by coming off the brakes abruptly, and you can get anti-roll reaction from side winds in a high profile vehicle..

No. Anti-dive is a suspension behavior not a brake behavior.

From Mark Ortiz's latest newsletter:

Hankook Ventus RS2

Well, since I'm an Admin here, I do spend a lot of time policing this site and now you've gotten my attention. Unfortunately you'll find a lot of people who don't agree with you here so you need to toughen up and listen yourself. There are two particular people in this thread who have land speed records or are crew on teams that have set land speed records. Listen to them because they know far more then you about this particular subject. If you have a lot of knowledge and expertise, please share it. If you're just guessing at things and relying on your reputation to convince people of your arguments, you've come to the wrong place.

Yeah we know there are some problems. Dan is working on a solution and we may have it implemented in a couple weeks. Stay tuned.

Happy birthday!

As explained to me by a L6 engine builder and verified by me over the course of a couple race seasons: stock springs will last forever and stay +/- 5% of their rate if the rpms are kept at 6,750 or less. Every time you run the spring over 6,750 rpms count that as a minute (6 times per lap at WSIR). Once you get 25 hours accumulated, the springs need to be replaced.

Ride harshness has much more to do with tire sidewall height, tire air pressures, and shock compression damping then spring rate.

Uuuuuhhh... no.

The Nismo studs will work fine.