johnc

Really, really bad idea.

http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/stubaxle.html

We can build the hatch for hinge mounting. We've done it a couple times by adding Jabroc or some other reinforcement in the hinge mounting area. The hinge has to be attached to the hatch with nuts and bolts, clamping the reinforced area, but its been done twice. Took about 6 hours to install and line up properly according to the last person that did it - and he swears he'll just order a pin-on hood next time.

At track day events, lap times have much more to do with the driver then the car. Mark Skaife in a stock 240Z will probably lap an entire group of no-hopers driving STis, Evos, etc. That may be a true generalization for more modern vehicles, but for a 240Z you can get a much better stiffness improvement with a proper 8 or 10 point roll cage. Spring rate at the 600 lb. in. level have been successfully run in 240Zs that have an extensive roll cage installed.

If you're planning on building an all-out turbo engine you'll need every dime you can scrounge. Spending money modifying an engine other then your turbo engine would seem to me to be a waste of money. But, its your money. A header will give some benefit IF you spend time and money on some internal engine work. The exhaust will give you more bang for the buck then a header.

Who's Miss Stuble and why did she hit a wall?

I beat a '66 Chevy 2 with an axe. Felt good...

The stock S30 steering column is pretty dang light and simple compared to anything newer. Weigh one of these next to an adjustable steering column and you'll see the difference.

M10 x 1.25p bolts are considered a "special pitch" and are a little difficult to find in grade 10.9. I am able to get them through my Wurth account rep. Try a German fastener supplier or http://www.nutsandbolts.com

A tube framed chassis with a carbon fiber body that weighs 1,950 lbs is a heavy car for something that's supposed to be an unlimited build. The SCCA GT2 spec for a rotary powered RX7 (FC/FD) is 1,980 lbs - and that's WITH driver. Most of those cars are fiberglass bodied.

JDM? Japanese Deceptive Marketing?

Yes, the inner lip is still there so you can use the rubber gasket and the stock window. Both. If a good urethane clear coat is used it adds to the UV protection. We stopped doing clear coated hoods because we couldn't get consistent quality. About 25% of the hoods had a few bubbles so I ended up having to pay extra to prime those hoods and sell them as seconds. All we sell now are primered carbon fiber hoods, which is basically what the racers want anyway.

IMHO, a 245 width tire is about the biggest that fit reasonably well under unmodified fenders. Some folks run bigger but that limits tire selection especially if you want to run DOT-R tires. There are lots of 245 width 16s, 17s, and 18s out there. EDIT: A 245 width tire fits well on a 8.5" wide tire. A 9" would be better for a DOT-R tire but you'll have fender clearance issues. I tried a 245/45-16 Hoosier A3S03 on a 9" wide rim and the overall section width was 10". It did not fit the back of the car. Same size all around. Staggered just creates tradeoffs until you modify the car enough to get a 5% rear bias. Then a staggered setup is of some benefit. When dealing with custom wheels, offset is irrelevant. The measurement you're concerned about is backspace. A 5" backspace will work with 10" or 8" coil overs.

I forgot we made Jamie's hood with a clear coat. Unfortunately we don't do the clear coat thing anymore.

$2,000 to $2,500 depending on the price of aluminum and the dollar exchange rate to Canada.

Kodiak FX polished 17 x 8.5" with 245/40-17s. 42 lbs tire, wheel, and lug nuts.

I'm not selling these, but for someone that's done the 5 lug conversion with long wheel studs, this is a great set of wheels for probably under $1,000: http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/238015.aspx

Drive a little faster...