johnc

http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/240StrutKit.html

I don't run any oil/lube through my air lines. I just have a little bottle of air tool oil and I put a couple drops in the tool the first time I use it each day.

Sorry. .083"

Well, NASCAR, SCCA, NHRA, and many high speed race sanctioning bodies specify or allow DOM tubing in addition to CroMo for chassis and roll cage construction based on 50+ years of competition experience. I would rely on their judgement more then a 4x4 magazine or web site.

You'll need to add at least a .083" thick plate about 4" square to the strut towers where you'll be welding the tube. Use 1" .120" wall or 1.5" .095" DOM tubing.

A 225/50-15 sized tire on a 15 x 8 rim is perfect for a non-flared 240Z.

FRONT (unloaded) Caster: 2 degrees 55' +/- 30' Camber: 50' +/- 30' KPI: 12 degrees 10' +/- 30' Toe in: 2 to 5mm Steering angle - in: 33 degrees +/- 30' Steering angle - out: 31.7 degrees +/- 30' REAR (unloaded) Camber: 48' Toe-in: 0

A good, quality epoxy primer liberally applied followed by a high quality paint job will do a lot to keep rust at bay. Making sure all the drain holes are unplugged, all the drain tubes are in place, and periodically washing the underside of the car helps too.

Check the gland nut, the spring mounts, and the upper shock mount.

Doh! For some reason I was picturing a stamped steel arm 4 link setup like what comes OEM on a Fox body Mustang or a G body GM car. Never mind.

In addition to what Jon mentioned above, you can position the oil tank anywhere in the chassis to improve weight distribution, significantly increase oil capacity (but that does increase weight), and run external oiling lines on the block to help ensure adequate pressure and volume at RPMs over 8,000. Its a little difficult to find a pan (ARE is the most common), the pumps interfere with alternator mounting, and (if 4 stage) the passenger side engine mount needs to be modified.

Not that I know of. Why would you need LH threads on a suspension arm mount?

Dang. Now I have to Tool Shed this thread...

SCCA spes are for a .083" or thicker plate, no more the 100 square inches, no longer then 12" on any one side, and no shorter then 4" on any one side. Plates must be welded all the way around to the sheet metal structure and the cage tubing is welded all the way around to top of the plate. The door hoop needs to be one continuous peice all the way to the floor right next to the rocker panel. Having it end on the bar running forward to the firewall is bad from a roll over perspective and will fail tech with most road race sanctioning bodies. An impact on the top of the driver's side A pillar will crush the cage down the distance between the bottom bar and the floor pan. Roll cage elements should be designed to take tension/compression loads, not bending loads. You might be able to fix it and pass tech if you create a plate box under that 3 tube junction connecting the junction to the floor pan and rocker panel. Gusset the tube(s) to the plate box.

While that's an ideal goal in primiary pipe design, what's more important is to make sure the low pressure waves hit the exhaust valve when the valve starts to open during the overlap phase of the cam. Bends in the primary tubes slow down the wave so, theoretically, a shorter pipe with more bends would work the same as a longer pipe with fewer bends. I am not smart enough to be able to calculate and build such a design so I try my best to make all the primaries the correct length, with as few bends as possible. But, if the packaging in the vehicle is such that unequal lengths are needed, you can still build an effective header with the above in mind while laying it out. It might take a few tries and a few tests on a dyno...

Added to the HybridZ Rules and Guidelines:

I ran Champion projector tip plugs (RN12YC) on my BSP/IT prepared L28 which gave a .1 bump in the compression ratio. Back to back engine dyno runs between the Champion plugs and NGK (BPR6EGP) showed a slight horserpower gain for the Champions especially when they were indexed to point the gap at the intake valve.

So... when is someone going to post some tech in this thread or is it time to Tool Shed it?

Assuming no longitudinal weight transfer while driving on a perfectly flat surface I can see how that would be true.

The gasket referred to at the start of this thread is the Nissan Motorsports (Garlock brand) composition gasket. Nissan Motorsports is the competition department for Nissan here in the USA and is not Nismo. They do sell Nismo parts but they also have their own parts line that they have developed and been selling for 30 years. Nissan Motors also sells an OEM style gasket that's available through Nissan dealers. Autozone and other auto parts stores generally sell FelPro brand gaskets. There is no concensus on which gasket is "the best." Each has its own strengths and weaknesses. I've had lots of success with the Nissan Motorsports (Garlock) gasket on normally aspirated race engines. Those engines get torn down every 50 to 100 hours and the gasket doesn't leave a bunch of crap on the head or the header. It seals well and handles a race environment.

For drag use I don't think a Quaife is necessary. A Powerbrute clutch pack LSD will work well in a drag application and its probably 40% cheaper then the Quaife. Shop installation on the bench is typically $400 and up depending on bearings replaced so if you do it locally the cost will be around $1,800.

I don't know if Nissan makes a baffle/gasket for the R200, but for the R180 Nissan has a thin metal stamping that went between the diff housing and the cover and shielded the vent from fluid splash. It was used on the 4 x 4 trucks.

The cable will stretch over time, but the adjustment between the handbrake rod and the cable bridge should take up any whatever strech has occurred. Maybe take the whole mess a part, clean it, and put it back together (pretty easy for me to say).

Read up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122895 Also, Burns Stainless and SPD both sell 2.75" and 3" mandrel bends in mild steel (.049 and .063) and many types of stainless. I buy the mild steel stuff from SPD and the stainless from Burns.

Nope. Lots of 2.4 to 2.6L engine gain power with a properly build 3" exhaust.