johnc

1954 DoAll 16" throat band saw.

My mistake, the customer had used Easwood's rust encapsulator to coat his parts, not POR.

You probably need to manually adjust your rear brakes so the shoes rest closer to the drums. Search on this site for the procedure.

I use weld through primer (3M's brand) to coat the inside of sheet metal parts I'm welding on to the car. I do not use it on the external parts where I'm welding. Its much better (from a weld strength/contamination perspective) to have a weld through primer behind your weld then POR. I tried to weld a steel patch panel on a car where the customer had applied POR to the back, forget it!

L6 headers are already 240 degree (Chevy 180) style headers. Its inherent in their design.

BTW... there is no such thing as a failure free race car. Even Audi, with their $550M Le Mans race budget designed their R8s and R10s so that the rear half of the car (including the transmission, brakes, suspension, wing, bodywork etc.) could be removed and replaced in 6 minutes.

As Ross has said, despite the better metallurgy and maufacturing, its still just a 27 splint sub axle originally designed for a 2,800 lb. 150 horsepower 280Z. Again, the part began ito fail long before it actually went BANG! A stress riser started at a surface imperfection and then propogated in steps as the stub axle was subjected to load. Some of these were small steps, some of these were big steps. Finally, the last burnout induced a step in the cracking processes that took the strength limit of the part below the load it was experiencing. BAM! Shot peening and polishing will reduce the surface imperfections and help reduce these kinds of failures.

19) Believing a "sight unseen" estimate to build or repar a car is accurate to within +/- 250%.

If its a 3.90 R200 with a limited slip, you just got a great deal. If not, you just paid about $166.50 too much. Also, turning wheels does NOT indicate if a rear end housing contains a LSD unit. It never has and never will. Forget anyone ever mentioned that little fable.

Industrial supply like McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com).

Are you volunteering to gather this information from all 50 seaches and put it together in one place for us?

I see people post this a lot and I don't understand. I've installed 6 ST rear ARBs on 240Zs running CVs (both 280ZXT and 300ZX) and there are no clearance issues if: 1. You shorten the end link. 2. You plate the stock LCA and drill a new link mounting hole futher forward or use the MM LCAs.

The version I heard had the punch line as: "Hey Mom, you still awake? Put your teeth in and come on down."

I ran that gasket for years on a 320 hp NA 3L engine (N42) head with a Jet Hot 2000 coated header. Never had an issue but a turbo application might be different. Four additional things I did to help the gasket survive: 1. Cut the header flange between 1 & 2 and 5 & 6. 2. Spray both sides of the gasket with Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket. 3. Put a small bead of Permatex Ultra Copper around the exhaust port openings on the header. 4. Used grade 10.9 studs and stainless metal lock nuts.

Its fine with just a couple simple mods: 1. Box in the triangular opening 2. Double gusset and box in the area under the plate that the mount attached to the engine sits on. 3. Weld your mount all around to the 240Z frame as you have it sitting now 4. Cut off the stock mounts on the crossmember, and weld the crossmember to the chassis.

The cause was most likely the repeated bottoming of the CV in the cup. One bind or one bottoming won't break the part. Repeated binds or bottoming causes fatigue and the structural limit of the parts gets reduced. At some point the load and the structural limit intersect and the part goes boom! It seems like a sudden failure, but the part has been failing over a long time. As with the stub axles breakage issue, regular inspection and maintenance will spot the problems before something breaks.

Bart, Fix your brakes before starting on the suspension. A stock 240Z will easily out brake your car in the condition I drove it at the autocross school.

Thanks.

For some reason I deciedced to take your ambiguity and expand on it. The prices I quoted above are for hatches not hoods.

I thought PBR calipers were mounted with the removable pin up?

This is an example of the work that has to be done to get a racing exhaust right. This customer of mine paid over $1,000 for porting work on the stock exhaust manifold, custom secondary pipes, Y pipe, and straight through 2.5" exhaust for his Spec944 Porsche. This is for a "low buck" spec racing series. This exhaust work alone got him 6% more horsepower and 5% more torque.

As the article says, once you're past the X or Y pipe, the size or style of the exhaust only matters if it impedes flow. A 300hp V8 engine would be fine with a dual 2" exhaust system past the X pipe or a 3" exhaust after the Y pipe. A 600 hp V8 engine would have trouble with a 2" dual exhaust system after the X pipe or a 3" exhaust after the Y pipe. The basic points of the article are: 1. An X or Y pipe is mandatory in a high performance exhaust. 2. The position of the pinch point is critical and must match the header and the cam. 3. Everything after the X or Y pipe must be as free flowing and smooth as possible. I made a mistake regarding secondary pipe length between the header and the Y pipe on an M3 exhaust and we ended up with a big hole in the powerband between 2500 and 3500. Re-doing the secondary pipes and making them 2" longer eliminated the hole and woke the bottom end up.

Some people wonder why I charge $850 and more for an exhaust system... http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-2/exhaust/exh1.htm FYI... I did not write this article and its not an exhaust system that I've built.

Hinge area reinforcement is an additional $25 for a firberglass hood and $50 for a carbon fiber hood. Fiberglass is $420 plus $25 for the hinge area reinforcement. Carbon fiber is $793 plus $50 for the hinge area reinforcement - but call before placing an order for the CF hatch, prices change frequently. More information is here: http://www.betamotorsports.com and go to the Products page.