johnc

Is the adjustable lower spring perch loosening (turning down)? It should have a set screw that you snug down to keep it from turning.

I think the lap record for an Enzo on the OEM street tires at WSIR is 1:23 - (faster then a GT2 car and a Formula Ford). When you get your car built David and are running around those times, let me know. I'll rent an Enzo, put some Hoosiers on it, and we can see if your homebuilt can hang...

The phrase "street ready race car" answers your question. Enzo suspension and aerodynamics are designed to work in the 100 to 190mph range. Cars that are neutral at those speeds tend to understeer at lower speeds. And, "...the brutha can't drive." Any idiot can wreck one of the best handling cars ever made.

Rear LCAs, steering rack, stub axles and companion flanges, halfshafts, and diff are worth the $200 purchase price if they are all in good shape. Anything else is gravy.

Probably coming from the vent unless your vent is plugged causing the side seals to blow. Make sure you don't overfill the diff. There is a metal shield/gasket thingy that Nissan put in the front R180 diffs on the 1980 through 1985 4wd trucks that shields the vent opening and keeps fluid from splashing out. If you're running a R200, then just make sure the fluid level is below the fill plug opening by about 1/4 inch.

While your car is on display at the show, you're not allowed to start and rev your engine. I suggest getting to the show very early and listening to cars as they pull in and park.

No. TIG and Stick machines use a Constant Current (Amperage) power supply while MIG machines use a Constant Voltage power supply. CC: Amperage is set by the dial and the foot pedal (operator controlled) and voltage is varied by the machine based on arc length. CV: Voltage is set by the dial (operator controlled) and current is varied by the machine based on wire stickout.

If you are talking about the sheet metal stamping that's behind the stub axle flange, not you don't need it but it does help keep crap out of the outer wheel bearing.

The question is alomost like, "How long is a piece of string?" Without knowing how well the engine was cared for and what use its been put to, there's no real answer. Knowing that some SR20DETs last 300km and others are junk at 30km doesn't really give you an indication how long the particular engine you're looking at will live.

Added and creditted.

Updated... The poor suckers that ask, "How do I section my struts?" are going to get so much information their heads are going to explode.

A nice thing about a wood deck is that it doesn't get as hot as a metal deck in the sun. Lying down on aluminum diamond plating after its been in the sun on a 105 degree day makes you feel like an egg being fried.

Yup, lots of 240Z racers run those types of from ARBs. Some even run them through the front frame rails to get a better angle on the arms.

Referred from Carl Beck's zhome.com when I was researching racing a 240Z i had just bought.

I don't know.

So what? You'll learn something and be able to point to it and say, "Look what I did!" The door jamb is a pretty strong part of the car and I, personally, wouldn't want to cut it up just to make things little easier during fabrication. The double door bars can start high (mid rib cage for the top bar) at the main hoop and then taper forward and down. At a minimum I would keep them at least 6" apart at the narrowest point (in the front) and about 4" above the rocker. SCCA considers an "X" door bar to be one bar. For the passenger side I would run a double door bar also but just keep it straight. Build that one first to get some practice with the bender before tackling the more complex driver's door.

I think there's a difference. Talking about what you're thinking and doing probably doesn't take much extra effort. I know I talk to my students when I'm instructing in an autocross or on the track. I basically narrate what I'm thinking and doing while driving at 9/10ths. I also do it when I'm by myself during the first run or the first couple laps on track because, at least for me, it helps reinforce what I was planning on doing and how to drive the track or course. Conversly, driving a car and trying to complete a mortgage application over the phone are two completely unrelated items and the cognitive part of the brain needs to switch back and forth eough to impact both tasks.

I know, but I deserve to be teased for that. I'm a fanatic about crawling under the car and putting a wrench on nuts and bolts to make sure things are tight. After that little incident, I welded the front crossmember in the car.

I did notice... after they fell out. Luckily the solid engine and trans mounts kept everything somewhat in line. For that event we tied the car down differently in Bryan Lampe's enclosed trailer.

I used "J" hooks in front that slip into the holes in the bottom center of the front crossmember. For the rear I have axle straps that slip between the LCA and the spindle pin casting on the strut.

Some misconceptions here: 1. Human beings cannot "multi-task." The term is used incorrectly when referring to how human brains handle multiple tasks at once. The cognitive part of the brain can really only focus and do one thing at a time. Human beings are reasonably good at task switching (quickly moving from one task to another and back) but doing two things as once is not possible with cognitive part of the human brain. http://www.apa.org/releases/multitasking.html http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/15225042/ 2. A number of studies, including the unscientific test on Mythbusters, show that cell phone use while driving a car is dstracting and can be severly distracting to the point of driving impairment along the lines of driving while intoxicated. Personally, I have made a big effort to stop talking on a cellphone while driving. I don't place calls anymore and I'll rarely pick up the phone if someone calls me.

Call Truechoice, push 2 for the Koni shop, ask for Craig, give him your shock part number, and he'll tell you what gland nut you need and that its on backorder back in Holland.

Al New cars are way (meaning years) beyond OBD2. Try LEV Bin2. You ain't dealing with that at all, you just let it be and enjoy the horsepower you have until you can upgrade with some serious multi-thousand dollar turbo stuff. You do get 300 to 307 horsepower and 260 to 274 ft. lbs. of torque. so it ain't bad, especially if you start adding lightness.

http://www.gounitrax.com They've build R180s, R190s, R200s, Viper, and BMW diffs for me. Always been happy with their work. Ask for Devon or Scott. Carl is the technician who knows his stuff.