johnc

Sports Racer class? Uuuhhhhh, no. This category of race car is basically for single seat, open cockpit, tube or composite frame, purpose built race cars. Here's a top contending C Sports Racer. http://dsr.racer.net/images/events/runoffs/04/single_cars/csr_34.jpg

Wow! Something happened to the prices at Fedhill. The last invoice I had from them (9/10/2005) for a 25' roll was for $48.10 inlcuding shipping. Thanks for the link to Automec.

What ezzzzz said above. The type of brake line referenced is 90/10 and is used by a lot of European OEMs and in aerospace applications. Its expensive but it forms easily and is ver corrosion resistant. Double flares are a cinch with this tubing. I get mine from Fedhill and they also have a huge selection of metric and sae fittings. http://www.fedhillusa.com/index.html

Ya know guys, all of this licensing stuff is available on each sanctioning body's web site. I ain't the answer man. http://www.nasaproracing.com/

Try Les at Classic Datsun. I think he bought a bunch of the Nissan Comp gearbox parts from Nissan Motorsports.

SCCA has 4 road racing license levels within the USA: Novice Regional National Professional A SCCA National and Professional license qualifies the driver for a FIA Driver's license.

Hah! I had exactly that happen to me racing at Buttonwillow. Two fillups within 6 hours at the Arco and then I couldn't pay for dinner at Willow Ranch. Luckily I just had enough cash.

I used roller pilot bearings on the Sunbelt engine I ran in the ROD based on Jim's recommendation. I replaced it about every 15 or 20 hours of use when I replaced the cluches. Its a part that's needed when running higher rpms (7,500 or above ?) but that's the only L6 engine I've run the roller bearing. I would never run one on a street car. Here's what one looks like after removing it from the crank end:

As mentioned above, 15 cfh is plenty for steel and maybe 25 cfh for aluminum. Porosity is caused by entrapment of gas in the weld metal. Some of the causes are: Contamination (scale, rust, paint, moisture, dirt, metal coatings) of the base metal or the filler rod. Not enough filler. Excessive travel speed. Poor gas shielding. 99% of the time porosity is caused by contamination. Clean the parts and your filler rod before welding. Yes, yes, yes, yes, and yes.

Whooo Hooo!

A structure that ties the front strut towers into the rear strut towers while also connecting to the top corners of the firewall, the front and rear of the rockers, and some diagonals connecting each of these points across the car would be perfect. Unfortunately the engine and the driver get in the way of this ideal structure. Think triangles and diagonals across the car to help with torsional stiffness. Lateral bracing primarily helps with bending. The firewall/front frame junction can benefit from bending support as does the rear bulkhead/frame rail area. Some ideas: 1. Box the trans tunnel. 2. Reinforce and extend the transmission mount across the car to each rocker (cross chassis trans mount). 3. Fully box the seat mounts. 4. Run a lateral boxed member on the upper side of the floor pan (in the interior) from the firewall/frame rail junction all the way to the rear bulkhead. Make sure it ties into the fully boxed seat mounts and the cross chassis transmission mount. 5. Connect the roll bar or cage to the hatch hinge mounting points in the roof. 6. Connect the roll bar or cage to the body sides right under the 1/4 windows. 7. Connect the front hoops of the roll cage to the A pillars. 8. Connect the front and rear hoops of the roll bar/cage to the boxed trans tunnel.

Not to appear dumb, but what's the difference between a 10" long .625" OD bolt and a 10.5" long .625" OD spindle pin (other then an additional .5" of length). How is that bolt going to save time and trouble years from now as compared to a spindle pin when both are basically identical?

You don't see retractable landing gear on your basic Cherokee, Piper, etc. and even the smartest guys goof puting the gear down (remember Larry Ellison and his MIG?) even when there are warning buzzers. Yes, the guy with the Chevy made a mistake and with proper operation he would have realized benefits from running vegetable oil. I just think that for 99% of the drivers out there adding two more points of failure in the operation of a car isn't such a good idea. At some point over 5 years of car ownership even the smartest person will make a mistake with the special startup/shutdown procedures that vegetable oil requires.

Wondeful idea... There was a guy here in my shop complex that was doing exactly that with his new Duramax Chevy. He kept bragging about it to the rest of us. That is until he forgot to switch over to diesel when he shut the truck off at the end of the day. The next morning it was on the hook. $2,170 and a week later it was back on the road with a new injection pump, injectors, and a voided engine warranty. I pointed out that what he paid for the repair would have bought him 667 gallons of diesel fuel and that he is going to have to burn thirteen 55 gallons drums of used french fry oil to get back to zero. He doesn't talk to me anymore and he removed the grease buring system he put on the truck.

Happy birthday!

If the structure you're bolting the tank to flexes (and pretty much EVERYTHING on a trailer flexes) it will put loads on the tank itself. This will, over time, fatigue the tank mounts or the tank itself causing cracks. Same thing happens when you solidly mount a radiator to the 240Zs core support. A couple local radiator shops send all their aluminum welding to me. I've repaired dozens of aluminum fuel tanks that were solidly bolted under hot rods, in pickup truck beds, and bolted to truck frames. All had developed cracks and were leaking fuel. A few I've welded twice after the dumb owners just reinstalled the repaired tanks the same old way.

I think this thread has run its course.

I hauled Sunoco GT Supreme around in various 5 gallon jugs, 30, and 55 gallon drums fuel around in my trailers for years. Never had a problem. The tank warnings you're reading are CYA stuff from the manufacturer's attorneys. I wouldn't worry about safety with a properly mounted (strapped in place, not bolted) fuel tank. I've seen some really scary installations in Hot Rods where tabs are welded to the tank and the tank is solidly bolted to a very flexible '32 frame.

Pete, Please listen to the doctor and hire a gardener. We could even take up a collection here: "The Save Pete's Back - Hire Him a Gardener Fund"

http://www.arb-forum.com/domains/decisions/671304.htm

Search. This has been discussed at length on this site. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109462

Rome.

You can weld some stainless steels to: 1. Low, medium, and high carbon steel. 2. Nickel steel. 3. Copper. To weld ferritic (some 400 series) or austentic (300 series) stainless to mild steel use 309 or 312 filler.

One of the issues we face welding stuff in the automotive/motorsports world is that there are no real standards applicable to us. There are some pipe welding standards developed from the oil and gas industries but they fall short with pipe diameters under 6" and pressure vessel standards are beyond comprehension for what we are doing. In the welding world, standards are developed by the application industry and then administered by the American Welding Society. Lincoln Electric has been working with NASCAR to develop welding standards for roll cage and tubular structures but nothing formal has been released to AWS that I know of. I was involved in welding coupons for a 4130 CroMo tube standard but I haven't heard of it being released. I've got a little certificate on my wall stating the yes, I have made a successful 4130 tube weld. I only got that (FWIW) because I kept bugging the guys at Lincoln for something so I think they sent me the certificate to shut me up.

This thread is really cool, but I can't do anything with it! Its frustrating... The Street Mod 2 240Z I'm building for a customer is rule limited to the stock stuff as far as the crossmember and steering rack. I guess I'll try the tie rod spacers.