johnc

I searched and didn't find an answer to a problem that may not exist. I've swapped an R200 into a customer's car and have the R200 moustache bar and the R200 front insulator (diff mount) but I'm not happy with the pinion angle on the installation. The front of the diff will be pointed up about 5 degrees when its finally bolted down. That seems way off to me but I've never actually done this swap before. A question: Is the front diff crossmember different on the 280Zs that run an R200? One option I have is to raise the moustache bare .125" by removing the upper washer on the urethane bushing kit, which will drop th epinion angle a bit. Am I worried about something that isn't a problem for you V8 guys?

225/50-15s on a 15 x 8" rim: Probably the perfect combination for a 240Z.

I think this post is fine because its directly related to what we do here at HydridZ. If it turns into a bash Democrats or Republicans thing then I'll kill it.

As I've posted in other forums, there are periodic crackdowns like this generally caused by a few sensational accidents and/or Hollywood sensationalism (The Fat and the Furriest). Politicians (including DAs running for office) exploit the situation to gain some points with the car fearing soccer moms. Given time this too shall pass. Oh, and BTW, those of you living in states other then California, take note. This is coming to your state soon. Its another way for local agencies to get money and for your local Congressmen to gain easy political points before the mid-term 2006 elections.

Here ya go Tim: http://www.misfittoysracing.com/manta/index.htm

That's assuming a lot for ANY compsite part regardless of the materials used. At the price point that 99.9% of all Z body parts are sold (fiberglass or carbon fiber) you're looking at hand or chooper gun laid up parts that are (in the best case) bagged when curing in the mold. Sometimes a little heat is added. When the parts come out of the mold they will tend to flatten out, some parts more then others and it can be minimized through layup pattern, foam cores, and resin selection. But, all non-autoclaved composite parts will change shape slightly when removed from the mold. Then there's the vehicle the part is being installed on...

Uuuhhhh, size doesn't matter when it comes to shocks (as long as it fits in the tube). Valving and stroke length are the most important consideration.

I'm pretty sure you're a quantity of one unless you have multiple personalities or multiple heads.

Find a couple independent compressor repair shops in your area and talk with them about used or rebuilt machines. The old saying, "They don't make 'em like they used to." is very true when it comes to air compressors. Tell the shops what you're planning to do and listen to their recommendations. Go with the recommendation that makes the most sense and with the shop that will stand behind what they sell you. I bought a rebuilt Kellog air compressor that was built back in the 1950s. It came with a new Baldor motor, 120 gallon tank, aftercooling, a big air dryer, water purge, delivery, wiring, and installation for $1,600. They shop also gave me a one year parts and labor on site warrenty and a two year parts warrenty. I've been running this thing in my shop for 4 years without a problem and the best thing is that it runs at 1,000rpm instead of the 3,000rpms that most new compressors run at.

Another very important point: Make sure the head, the intake, and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces are frickin' spotless and scratch free! Use razor blades, brass wool, Scotchbrite, Acetone, MEK, etc. If it doesn't take you at least an hour to clean these surfaces you're not getting them clean enough.

Absolutely. With the low pressure in the exhaust the Dp-brane superstring as part of the relativistic paradox inside the tire carcass is vectored toward the inner spacial area. Under this condition, the endpoints of strings are free to move about but no momentum can flow into or out of the end of a string. The T duality infers the existence of open strings with positions fixed in the dimensions that are T-transformed. Generally, in type II theories, we can imagine open strings with specific positions for the end-points in some of the dimensions. This lends an inference that they must end on a preferred surface. Superficially, this notion seems to break the relativistic invariance of the theory, possibly leading to a paradox. The resolution of this paradox is that strings end on a p-dimensional dynamic object, the Dp-brane.

The 3" exhaust has reduced backpressure to the point that a low pressure area exists in the tubing causing the high pressure air in the tires to be pulled to the inside. This increases the inside OD of the tire which, with the negative camber that you're running, correlates to a reduction in operating rpm of 300. If you decrease the negative camber by .23 degrees you'll get back that 300 rpm.

We can calculate the ideal spring rates all we want, but for a Z application shock selection ultimately determines what spring rates you CAN run. Right now, unless you can find some leftover Koni 8610-1149s you are looking at: 150 to 250 lb. in. - Tokico Illuminas at around $140 each. 250 to 350 lb. in. - Koni 8611 doubles at around $300 each. 200 to 300 lb. in. - Bilstein custom revalved at around $200 each. Right now I'm doing the suspension on a customer's car and have installed Illuminas with 200F and 225R Hyperco springs and ST 1" front and 3/4" rear bars. And, I did not shorten the struts because of the tires sizes the customer plans to run (275/40-17) and because its primarily a street car that will be running a 3" exhaust.

Use the Nissan factory turbo gasket. Copper spray and I put a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Copper 700F around each exhaust port on both sides. Whatever you are using, if they lose torque then they need to be replaced along with any needed washers and lockwashers. Torque them to the factory specs, don't over tighten. I wouldn't buy any fasteners from an auto parts store. Find an industrial hardware store and get bolts rated at least metric 8.8. BTW... do Nissan factory turbo installations use bolts or studs? Studs are a better choice because the gasket won't slip during the install. Buy new lockwashers. This area gets too hot to use Loctite. The diff needs to come out....

Bill Baker is a west coast Z racer guy that I trade e-mails with and see at the track every now and then. I just sold him a hood for yet antoher racing 240Z that he's building. Bill was the US Marketing/Sales guy for BBS for years. If you have pictures of the wheels send them to me and I'll forward them to Bill for his opinion. FYI... I'm on dial-up so keep the picture sizes sane.

Design Products (714) 892-1513 5462 Oceanus Dr # E Huntington Beach, CA 92649

I don't understand what the big deal is? I just have eBay bid up the maximum amount I am willing to pay for an item. If the bidding goes beyond that amount, oh well, it was obviously more then I was willing to pay for it. I could care less if the price went beyond my maximum 3 days or 3 milliseconds before bidding closes. I've won a few and lost a few but winning the auction or getting a "deal" is not important to me. I'm interested in the item and am only willing to pay for it at what I consider to be a fair price. If someone else feels a fair price is $1 more then what I am willing to bid, they deserve to win the auction.

Think triangles. Also, the cowl box is a pretty strong part of the chassis (because its a nice triangle shaped box) so you probably don't need any bracing going through it. A plate that spans the base of the triangle will provide lots of strength. The plate needs to go from the cowl lip in the firewall (where the rear hood gasket slips on) down past the line of spot welds. This setup was actually designed on a finite element system:

Check them very closely for any damage, stress cracks, fractures, ovaled wheel stud holes, damaged lug nut seating surfaces, etc. Old race wheels can be very dangerous things.

Those little plastic terminal covers don't help much. I had a 1992 Corvette and the previous owner had swapped in a universal Pep Boys battery that had the requried side mounts and an extra set of top posts. There was a plastic cover over the unused positive top post. It was rubbing against a frame bracket. One day the dash gauges, headlights, engine, etc. went all "woogy" and the car shut off. You need a fairly complete set of tools to get to the battery in C4 Corvette. I used a stick to pry the battery away from the frame and I jammed another small piece of wood between the battery post and the frame. Luckily, the car started right up and amde it to the shop.

I think you guys are confusing the two different rear anti-roll bar mounting styles that ST sells. For 70 through 73 they sell a rear bar that mounts to the transverse link mount braces and for 74 and later car they sell a rear bar that mounts to the factory mounts on the chassis in front of the diff. The rear mounting style has better angles and is more effective. It can also be used on the 74 and later cars.

You'll typically blow fluid out of the breather doing burnouts or working the unit hard and getting it hot. Don't plug the breather off or you'll start blowing fluid out the side and front pinion seals. Buy another breather from MSA and modify it so you can attach a hose to the end. Run that hose to a catch can that you mount on the right side in front of the fuel tank. Also, the next time you have the rear cover off the diff, buy a rear diff cover gasket for the front diff of a NiIssan 720 4x4 pickup. It has a little flange that protects the inside end of the breather tube from direct splashing of the diff fluid.

Piece of cake! As long as you start writing the number 6 from the inner loop, no problem. I've won a few bucks at a bar with that one.

Nano plumbers?

Be sure to have someone there with a video camera the first time you do that launch. We ALL would love to see that!