johnc

It's not a pain in the ass. It's normal automotive work. Get a copy of the FSM, spray the nits and bolts with penetrant a few time before the day you do the work, set aside a few hours, gather all the tools, and be careful.

3M 08578 Black 1' Strip Calk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_5IhIwbTBH6H0B

Shox.com and yes you use the same shock front and rear. Make sure you order the Sport version. IIRC the old part number was F4-P30-0032-M1 and the new part number is 34-184530.

You can bolt it to the head and then weld only 1/4 of the way around each runner where it connects to the flange. Alternate runners 1, 5, 2, 6, 4, 3 - which means you'll make 4 passes through this order welding 1/4 of each runner each pass. You might have to remove and reinstall bolts as you go. You may still have to machine the mating surface flat. A lot depends on how thick the flange is.

Media blast, clean out the media from the rim/center gap, wipe down with Prep Sol, prime with any good automotive primer, paint with any good automotive semi-gloss black paint - 2 or 3 light coats.

The Pegasus bar is the Krik Racing roll bar. The S&W 8 point roll bar is dangerous in a side impact - its meant for drag racing only. Those unsupported door bars will help crush your sides and ribs in a side impact.

The only way to stop rust is to physically remove it. POR15, Zinc phosephate, etc. will only slow it down. Its taken 40+ years to get some surface rust on the inside of the frame rails so even if you did nothing you've probably got 20 years before rust through. I'm never been a fan of POR15 because it makes a mess of any future repair. I prefer zinc phosphate or zinc chromate or some kind of phosphoric acid/tannin rust converter.

Do not use POR15 in a welded area. Use a zinc weld through primer like this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-05917-Weld-Thru-Coating-II/dp/B0015PG4E0 After you are done with the frame section, drill a small hole in the bottom or use an existing hole and spray the inside of the section with this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cs/primers/zinc.php

Need the part in the picture. Shipping to 92806. If have one for sale, let me know how much. Thanks.

Depends on usage. In the road race world we typically break the flange off the stub axle. Happened to me twice. I know of at least a dozen other flange failures. IMHO, that's the typical failure mode.

Yes, ultimately you want as little lift and downforce as possible while still maintaining some level of stability and control. You also need a margin of safety for crosswinds and mistakes you might make.

Rake is used to control center of pressure. Ideally on a LSR car you want the center of pressure behind the CG to make the car aerodynamically under steer at speed (inherently more stable). Adding rake increases downforce (pressure) right at or behind the S30's CG (windshield area). The low pressure area over the roof is reduced slightly also.

Hah! Really? A company gives out horsepower ratings in their advertising and you guy believe them? They say a CV shaft can handle 1,000 or 500 hp without knowing your gear ratio, vehicle weight, tire compound, or track surface coefficient of friction I'll give you guys a hint. It's a lie.

http://www.bloodhoundssc.com/project/car/wheels/suspension/suspension-land-speed-record-car

Come by the shop. Benton Performance 1275 N. Lance Ln. Anaheim, CA 92806 I'm here normally from 8 to 5:30. You can see a lot of vintage Porsches and the Peking to Paris 240Z I'm building.

The S30 body by itself generates lift. Adding front take reduces that. Airdams also reduce that. Is your car hitting the ground over a bump or is it dragging from aero downforce? With and aero modifications it's critical to keep the aero platform stable. You want as little downforce as possible while still keeping the car relatively stable at speed. I would go with spring rate over bump stops and use softer shock compression damping to keep the tires on the road. You might also want to check and see if you might have too much shock rebound damping for your existing spring rate. That can cause the car to pack down and loose ride height.

Number 1 is an aero issue. What aero modifications are you allowed? BTW... It's probably unrealistic to assume the car will track perfectly straight and be perfectly stable at speed. Bumps, track surface, and wind will all introduce instability. Number 2 is a tire, bushing, camber change, or track surface/bump issue. Your aero ride heigh change at speed affects front and rear toe. Number 3 is an aero issue. You need a lot more spring rate. That can come front the springs themselves or from progressive rate bump stops. Your issue will be getting the correct shock rebound for the spring rate under aero loading.

You're doing fine. I suggest you get the surface rust off your replacement panels before welding them into the car.

I was able to get 48F/52R in my NA powered L6 1970 240Z. Move the engine back to the firewall and drop it an inch or two. Run a CF hood, move a small lithium battery behind the passenger seat, remove the bumpers, gut the doors, etc. Removing weight also moves the weight distribution.

I've installed 2 OSG double plate clutches on customer 240zs. One was a 400hp SR20 swap and the other was a 350hp L28T. Both customers were very happy and preferred the OSG clutches to the Act clutches previously installed.

Just find a head gasket with a larger OD fire ring. As mentioned above, the head gasket should locate well on the dowels.

All the information in the strut thread is still legit. I suggest the Bilstien P30-0032s for what you are doing. If it's part of a strut sectioning effort then you don't need to worry about sourcing the correct gland nuts. The shocks come with a male and female gland nut. You weld the female nut to the top of the sectioned strut tube after opening up the ID enough to clear the shock body.

De nada.