johnc

I've got one. PM me your shipping info and I'll get it out on Monday.

First, buy a good micrometer so you can check the feeler gauges at the store. You might be surprised at what you find. Feeler gauges also wear out so you need to check them periodically.

You can mount the sliders to what I mentioned above. Just need to space them up about 1/4" so they clear the floor.

And then there is the: 1. Engine wiring harness. 2. Fuel system plumbing. 3. Cooling system plumbing. 4. Throttle linkage. 5. Driveline. 6. Gauges and senders. 7. A lot more... Physically installing the engine and transmission is the easy part.

Cut out the stock seat mounts and weld in two 1" x 2' x .065" wall tubes across the seat area under the floor pan. Use those as your seat mount attachment point. That will give you an additional 3" of cabin height.

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A BOLT-IN ENGINE SWAP! Why do some guys keep saying that? I've put all the engines above (except the KA) into various S30s (plus 13Bs, LS and LTs) and NONE of them are a bolt in swap, not even the L28ET.

Yes

Most likely your setup without a prop valve will still be front biased.

Ok... The wheel wells are normally a low pressure area and that's why you see small diffusers at the back of splitters dumping air into the wheel wells.

I've seen that problem before on R200 and R230 installs. A class 10.9 button head caps crew might solve the problem. Don't cut on the a-arm. You might also check your diff mounts to how much they move. The diff might twist enough for the bolt heads to hit the a-arm.

http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/splitter.html

All the engine swap candidates require some fabrication work. Even if there's a "bolt in" kit you've have to make and weld in stuff. IMHO, a VG30ET tuned to around 400hp is an ideal Hybridz swap. Its a compact engine that has proven its durability over time.

I was going to say that but my memory sometimes fools me. I just notched an ARE pan going into a DP Miata because of the issue you point out.

All the parts are available but you have to hunt for them. The market is tiny compared to the muscle car market so you may only have a couple vendors providing parts for a specific engine or chassis here in the US. If you shop in Japan you will have a lot more choices for aftermarket support. Parts for the engines you mention generally cost double or triple (or far more) what you pay for SBC parts. Labor is the same. We have no idea what you mean by "realistic costs." I have customers very happy to realistically spend $50K or more on their S30 and others that can barely scrape together $1K.

Its not the same as solid mounts. Close, but there's a noticeable difference.

Yes, as I mentioned above, it helps put power down and with straps on both sides it helps with turn in. The help is slight but its there. The engine and transmission on stock mounts is a mass that moves. That movement delays, however slightly, how the sprung weight responds to loads. Any reduction in that movement increases the responsiveness of the chassis.

Check fuel pressure. Make sure its constant at 4 to 5 psi. Low voltage to the pump at idle could cause a drop in pressure.

Follow the procedures in the FSM to tune the carbs.

I put torque straps both sides of the engine in the Peking to Paris rally car. I also ran one on the driver's side of all my racing 240zs that had rubber or poly engine and trans mounts. Helps keep the engine in place and also helps put power down.

Depends on how effective the splitter is. If it's effective enough to eliminated the 200 lbs of lift at 80 mph then you will have a car with aero oversteer at that speed.

Stan at Benchmark Composites has my old molds and will still make hoods for the S30 and the S130 and hatches for the S30.

NS046-HA I've sold and installed dozens of them in long nose R200s.

Using the Nissan Motorsports pan I was able to drop the engine almost two inches and move it back about four inches. I replaced the stock rubber engine mounts with machined aluminum blocks. I had clearance issues with the oil pump and anti roll bar/X member, header collector and floor pan.

https://www.facebook.com/john.benton.370/videos/10208326875800092/

They are there to protect the seal from rocks and debris. If you drive on paved roads 100% of the time you should be fine.