johnc

It's a better shock in all aspects. More piston and valving options.

Cars are all about emotion, not rational thought.

If your splitter is functional it should be strong enough for you to stand on. Keep that in mind what selecting the materials.

Sometime the inside hub seal is not seated completely and that causes additional drag. Its supposed to be recessed into the hub. Some folks install it flush with the inside hub face and that causes a lot of drag. The seal will fail very quickly in use if not seated properly.

There is a spec in the FSM for the rotating torque and end play. That's when there is a torque range for the nut. You torque to the lowest number on the torque spec and then measure me pnay and rotation torque.

Over torquing was the likely cause of the failure of the threaded end. 280Z stub axles are NLA from Nissan. I suggest you source used axles and companion flanges or aftermarket. If you get used have then crack tested. In a road racing application the most common failure mode is the flange separating from the axle. Check your bearing housing for roundness. If it's off by the .005" you mention it should be replaced. You might be able to use it if you use Loctite bearing lock.

FYI... I was wrong on the free length. They are 14" tall not 12".

Probably not. Do the math here (.55" wire dia, 12" free length, 4.75" OD. open both ends, 9 coils). http://www.thespringstore.com/spring-calculator/spring-rate-calculator.html They can also find existing springs that match your requirements or custom make them.

Another option is the Moog springs for the front of a Chevette. You will have to cut them. Same spring rate as Dave's (200 lb. in.)

Even though you didn't like the answer, you did get help. Life is like that.

You must remove the cover to check. There is nothing external that is proof. You have to eyeball the LSD or you can very easily get ripped off. How many more times do I have to post this?

You must remove the cover to check. There is nothing external that is proof. You have to eyeball the LSD or you can very easily get ripped off.

Please search this site. You will need to look at individual assemblies/components to determine interchange. Lots of parts can be swapped but with modifications.

Works very well but some people (me) have reactions to it if a lot is inhaled at once. Acetone is a safer solvent.

The most important component of a strut suspension is the shock. Period. The camber plate, spring perches, springs, etc. are secondary. Spend 50% of you suspension money on the shocks. Koni, Bilstein, Penske, Ohlins, JRZ, Moton are better then anything sold by Megan, Stance, etc. orders of magnitude better in some cases.

Shit part from Frangola? Too short a M10 nut for the fitting depth ( there are two different length M10 brake line nuts DIN and JIC).

M10x1. Standard double flares.

You also need to have at least a 6" thick concrete floor with 3,000 psi concrete. Most home garage floors are 4".

Typically $500 to $600 if just pulled out of an engine. More if it's been cleaned up, machined, etc.

"Some guy said the the metal of the rivet can cause premature rusting in the area they are installed in" Some guy is a moron.

We've got Bendpak 4 post in the shop and we can slide the ramps all the way to the center. We can go as narrow or as wide as we want or slide the ramps all to one side of the four post unit - which comes in handy when working on the shop lights. And, as I mentioned in my PM, I would not spend the money on the air jacks the slide in the center of the lift. We had those and we pulled then off because they were more in the way then anything else. I made 2" X 10" crossbars that I put bottle jacks and jack stands on if I need to lift the ends or sides of the car. The crossbars move easily and I can lift them off if they get in the way. I can also build car specific supports (S30, 356, 911) to hold the chassis when the suspension is off the car.

I was also reminded of a saying from the best hands on suspension and pro development race driver I know, "Don't let perfect get in the way of better."

And all of this is meaningless until you get some lap times. Unless you can calculate exactly what your tires need from the car and you, adding adjustability is a good idea. Don't worry right now about the exact position of the inner LCA mounting point. Track testing and lap times will tell you where it needs to be and be prepared to make adjustments that go against all the advice on this site.

One tip on testing electrical systems, buy a 12V inverter that only puts out 3 amps. Use that to test instead of a battery.

Weld up the gap and grind it down smooth.