johnc

Efficiency. IMHO, I want a chassis that's strong enough to do all of its intended jobs and no stronger. Any additional strength is added weight and wasted time and money. Every one has different goals, mine almost always emphasizes efficiency.

I don not see anything bent.

Porterfield can custom cut a pad from any material they carry to fit the Toyota SW12 or SW13 calipers. I've had them cut DTC70 pad material for my OEM 350Z front and rear calipers (non-Brembo) from a big AP application. For track use, DTC70 is the best pad material I've ever run. They are aggressive as mentioned above and will consume rotors, but they can take a lot of heat and have outstanding release. Very easy to modulate.

On the S30 chassis as it comes from the factory the rockers are the strongest part of the car. IMHO, I would spend time and effort strengthening the weaker parts of the chassis first - fix the weakest links.

Pratt and Whitney R-4360-43 Wasp Major. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wvEzhyY9F4

Well... I can't cover all aspects. I don't do paint, metal shaping, or bondo. I can do rust repair and install patch panels but your body and paint guy will have to finish it off and make it look pretty. I also don't source or build engines and I don't build interiors, although I can install seats, gauges, etc.

Budget?

If you're asking this quesiton, you've lost motivation. Without that there's no point in continuing. Part the project out and find something else that you enjoy doing.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/ Call Jack at 818-298-2549. He's in Glendale and can source your rear LCAs. The 280Z LCAs are a bit stronger then the 240Z ones.

People seem to forget about... me...

I dunno, just economics really and it seems a shame to tear down a nicely built NA engine. You can sell that NA engine for, maybe $5,000 complete, and use that money for a new build. If you're modifying the existing engine you're throwing away the intake, exhaust, carbs, cam, and pistons. Maybe you can sell those parts separately but they are worth more as part of a complete engine. I've never been too impressed with a low boost high compression engine. All that extra plumbing and complexity for 5 psi? Might as well just keep the NA engine and spend that additional money on lightening the car and making it handle better. Or start over and build a turbo engine.

You would be better off selling that engine as is and building a turbo motor from scratch.

$10 says they are brothers.

Waste of time. The rockers are already pretty strong. Search please.

5 horsepower. You're better off doing a perfect tune up and saving your money for the engine of your dreams.

Looks fine to me and what Jon says above regarding welding it being a complete pain in the ass. A small, flexible swan neck for your MIG welder helps a bunch. A mirror also helps but practice welding using a mirror before actually trying it in the car. Its ass backwards and you need to get it right the first time. EDIT: You can also make a bolt-in connection or stub to the forward hoop. All the welding can be done on the bench and then you bolt the forward door bar to the stubs after welding in the hoop. After bolting, you can even run a partial bead around the easy to get to sections. Its still considered a bolted connection so use Grade 5 or higher 3/8" fasteners.

Yes. Erik is busy being being crew chief on a World Challenge GT team.

The Koni mounting thread shaft is longer (taller) then the Tokicos. It does project up into the center hole on the strut tower. For those situations where the rules do no allow center hole modification I will make a spacer that fits below the shoulder bushing and moves the Koni shock down about 10mm. That helps but does not solve getting to the glade adjuster on top the the Koni shock using the Koni adjustment knob. For that problem I've made a adjustment tool out of a small slotted socket and a brake cable from a motorcycle.

Here are some pics. In this Miata cage example the knee bar is up high and its where I suggest you run the top of the low front hoop I mention. You can also runt he forward braces and shown in the pics.

The box mounting is up to you, but be sure to tie in the rocker and the floor pan with the box. Ideally you create a low hoop (just like the main hoop) that fits behind the dash and runs as high up toward the bottom of the windshield as possible. Your door bars tie to that hoop. You can also add a knee bar running across the car just below the steering column. The idea is to transfer side impact load across the car to the other door bar mounts.

OK, my misunderstanding.