johnc

Nissan.

Disassemble the rear suspension and check for bent parts. Also check the subframe to make sure its square. Those numbers indicate that something is bent or out of place. You need to find and fix that first before buying aftermarket parts to increase adjustability.

S130 has a stiffer chassis and better aerodynamics. Its not significantly heavier then the 280Z it replaced. From a road racing perspective here in the USA it was similarly successful except more of its wins were in professional racing series. In amateur road racing its was much less successful due to how it was classified. On the street its sales numbers showed it was just as successful as the S30.

Adjust them to 45 degrees, 18 ft. lbs. With bearings its more of a feel thing for the adjustment then an actual number.

Buy a roll of McMaster-Carr part number 9700K14 (as suggested above), heat up an appropriate diameter steel bar, and burn grooves in the rubber. You'll need four pieces of rubber for each clamp (two side by side ont he bottom, two side by side on the top).

I want to see a video of you running and jumping in through the driver's window, a la Dukes of Hazard.

Not sure what happened and I didn't get a PM or a notice about an issue. I approved the previous posts.

Now people are starting to understand why that particular header cost so much. Getting the equal length primaries to fit is a real pain and the secondary merge makes it even more difficult.

There should be a vertical seam near the rear of the door.

That cage builder was in Grassroots Motorsports when they did the comparison between the various M3 race cars. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/m-pressive/

The E36 BMW LCA would work the best. I've measured and seriously thought about installing the whole front suspension from he E36 into the S30. I even have the parts...

Search back issues of Grassroots Motorsports. A guy built a $2000 challenge S30 with a V8 and 180 degree headers. I think he attributed a 40hp increase just to the header install that he built himself. It was a 10 second S30 for $2000. 180 degree headers on a Chevy V8 are well worth the effort if packaging isn't a big issue. In Trans Am racing all the Camaro teams were running 180 headers and most of the current SCCA GT1 cars also run 180s.

5/8" rod ends are fine. Nice work.

Yes, start at two turns from full soft on all 4. Then adjust accordingly.

Everything look s stock except for the plate covering the RR LCA mounting point. Don't know why that's there.

With the tires pressures I mention above, I start cold at those pressures and bleed back down to those pressures as the tire warms up. The biscuit style camber plates should give you at least 3 degrees negative. Try ovaling the two mounting holes in the strut tower. I prefer Brian's TC rods: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93255/pd1987788/ADJ._TENSION_CONTROL_RODS__ZCAR__510__ If the rebound on you Koni's are on full soft, add in two turns of rebound before doing anything else to correct your understeer issue.

Looks home made. DP Racing sells an adjustable 5/8" rear bar and, in the past, it might have had a slider adjuster like yours. The current version has 5 holes on each arm.

Increasing LCA length tends to run the tie rods out of adjustment. Since you need toe out you need all the adjustment you can get out of the tie rods. Also, increasing LCA length increases scrub. Ultimately we do have to run a lot of scrub in front to get these cars to handle, but its something you should minimize as much as possible. And with adjustable camber plates you can add caster while also increasing negative camber. I also tried lower pressures when I ran V710s but they tended to get laggy and imprecise on turn in. I ran the pressures I listed above and the car was more responsive and the course times were equal or better.

Its all about the alignment. 1. Camber plates - you need at least -3 in front a -2.5 in back. Don't use adjustable LCAs to get more camber. 2. Increase front caster to +5. 3. Raise the ride height 1" in front and 1.5" in back. 4. Front toe should be 1/8" out. Rear toe should be 1/16" in. Also, tire pressures should probably be 26psi F and 24psi R cold.

I would rather he bump this thread then create a new one.

Ignore the rates people use for S13s, AE86s, etc. Pay attention to what people use for road race S30s.

The issue with steering lock isn't just the rack or the steering arms. The TC rod and the frame in front of the crossmember get in the way big time. There are fixes for all of this, its just takes some thought, money, and time.

Your biggest issue (and its a big one) is steering lock. There's not enough to make a good drift car.

The system isn't implemented here.

http://www.motorsports-group-sucks.com/ I'm gobsmacked that a shop would do this.