johnc

The biggest rear wheel cut I ever did was about 3" above the body line. Essentially up to where the inner wheel well goes horizontal. That was to fit 285/30-18s on 10.5" rims on a 240Z that ran a 5.5" front and a 6" rear ride height. And that car occasionally scraped the rear tires on some super wide ZG flares even with 375 lb.in. rear springs. Its just kind of the nature of any beast with a rear strut suspension.

The 240Z is not designed for hub centric wheels. There's nothing for the wheel hub to center on and it really doesn't matter anyway.

Bzzzttt! Wrong answer. Lead is not magnetic.

No.

Its exactly 83 lbs. for the long nose with a CLSD, a front diff mount, the 300ZX Turbo bigger rear cover, and no fluids. I just put that combo on the scale in my shop.

Driveline angles are universal. It doesn't matter if its an OEM install or a custom tube frame chassis. Its all on here or on the internet.

You really should be searching this site. All this has been discussed before. Check the FAQs and the Driveline section.

No it was another customer BMW and the fully loaded diff (AL housing, cover, and girdle, 4.11R&P, Auburn LSD, fluid) was 54 lbs.

There's no such thing as "good" weight.

Does the Ford 8.8 in an E36 BMW count?

I'll echo a lot of the advice above. Do not go deep in debt as part of your schooling. Take the list of tools your school requires and go shopping at Sears for Craftsman tools and at local pawn shops. Just get the prices and note the source on your list. Show it to the Snap-on and Matco guys and have then do their best to match it. 60% off is almost the standard discount from Snap-On if you're in the trade so try to get more then that. If they don't want to play, at least you've got alternatives from your list. And remember, the quality of the job is in the hand that is using the tool, not in the tool itself.

I'm able to run my shop on a 100A three phase 208V service but I do blow out one leg of an unbalanced setup periodically. Luckily I blow out the aluminum wire leg coming from the Edison bar to my meter so the landlord has to replace it. I now go out and loosen, re-tighten the lugs about every 6 months and haven't blown a leg for a couple years.

Wow! You guys really made something complex out of something very simple. Just... wow!

Drive a bit east to Kirk Racing in Alabama.

SPD custom makes collectors to whatever specs you want. Run the Stahl collectors as supplied and then add the final merge collector. IMHO, assuming you're going with a 3" exhaust at some point, I would just run a "Y" pipe until you finally make the jump.

Just finished the third run: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98109-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles-part-three/

Most likely your brake rotor is scraping the outboard end of the lower control arm. Its a common (but often unnoticed) problem with big brake upgrades on the S30.

Maybe. Nissan changed the seat mounting and seat sliders for the 280Z model but I don't know if that change took place in the 75 model year or later.

If Smokey and Vizard are your standards of the best combustion technology gurus then you're at least 10 years behind where things are now. The best engineers right now probably work for Ferrari, Renault, Mercedes, and Cosworth. There are also a lot of OEM senior engine design engineers deep in the bowels of the OEM manufacturers that have forgotten more the Smokey and Vizard put together. They have vast computer and lab resources at their disposal. Regarding direct injection and turbulence: Spraying a precisely calibrated fine mist at 3,000psi into a combustion chamber at exactly the right spot near the end of the compression stroke does not require a lot of turbulence. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_direct_injection

Oh C'mon! You can't see any science in this combustion chamber design? You don't notice the direct injector pointing directly at the spark plug? How the spark plug is oriented optimally based on where the fuel is coming from? The quench on the injector side of the head causing a flow pattern towards the spark plug? How about this piston dome? No combustion chamber science here?

Oh C'mon! You can't see any science in this combustion chamber design? You don't notice the direct injector pointing directly at the spark plug? How the spark plug is oriented optimally based on where the fuel is coming from? The quench on the injector side of the head causing a flow pattern towards the spark plug? How about this piston dome? No combustion chamber science here?

For those that seem to forget the purpose of this site: Buying and selling stuff is far, far down the list of reasons this site exists (and has existed for over a decade). We maintain the classifieds as a courtesy to the members that want it. If I had my choice, we would not have a classifieds section, period. It is by far the biggest admin headache we have and eBay, Craigslist, etc. are far better resources. And we put in the donation requirement to sell to REDUCE the number of scammers. We never said, not did we ever expect that little change to eliminate scamming - its been very effective. Again, Caveat Emptor.

Check all your grounds, clean and sand away any paint between the ground wire and the bady. Make sure there's a good ground from the engine to the chassis. Maybe even run a ground from the alternator mounting to the chassis.