johnc

Amazing... really amazing. The safety stuff that will keep you alive is "miscellaneous." Your thinking is completely wrong. Here's the order of importance when building a race car, any race car: 1. Safety. 2. Reliability. 3. Repeatability. 4. Speed.

IMHO, the issue with unsupported door bars is that the front mounts will move inward in a side impact. If you can build a low front hoop under the dash up to the bottom of the windshield and run a knee bar across to the door bars on the opposite side you'll have a much safer install.

I just recently installed a set of K-Macs on the front of a customer car. They are built to a price point but they do work. Camber adjustment is a bit cumbersome and you do have to enlarge the center hole in the strut tower if you don't want to drop the strut to adjust camber. Caster adjustment is fairly easy. The set the customer supplied me was missing two parts. I called K-Mac in Australia and I had the replacement parts in two days, no charge, from Australia. Can't beat that for customer service.

Get over it, get on with your build. Stuff like this happens a lot when building a car.

Unfortunately the seller has no duty to warranty those parts and MM probably only warranties to the original seller. They are now your parts. Put them on the car, run them, and see if there is a vibration issue.

Or maybe just sell your Z project and buy a real GTR... just sayin'

Probably OK. You need to think about ride height, strut tube length, and bump travel to determine lower spring perch position.

Its just another thing for us to manage. People complain about their "reputation" and want us to adjust it. Others complain that someone they think is an assclown has too high of a reputation and want us to adjust that. We don't want to get involved in that ego BS. HybridZ is about the tech, not personal status.

An 11/16" master?

My only experience with them has been racing against turbo and NA 944s and building/maintaining a championship winning Spec944. So, pretty much only on a race track. In that environment they are basically bulletproof as long as you're using Porsche/Audi parts. For the 944 a lot of the parts are from Audi/VW and there are cross references on the internet that help you source the correct part from a VW dealer which saves at least 50%. They handle extremely well if you get the alignment correct. The rear semi-trailing arms are the difficult part of alignment and it takes time and patience to get them set right. A properly setup Turbo 944 is a monster with 350+ horsepower reliably available on a race track. That and a 2,450 lb. race weight with driver makes a pretty fast track car.

You really need to stop asking questions like this and start researching. The answers are all here.

We don't have that feature turned on. HybridZ is about the technical content, not the people doing the posting.

The main point I think is: time and testing. It takes a lot of both to get the car and the driver sorted and fast. There are no magic bullet combinations and bolting on parts is only 25% of the work involved in making a car fast around a race track.

Sometimes the Ackerman discussion becomes a pure one where all other outside influences are ignored. Here's Mark Ortiz's discussion of Ackerman in context of everything else involved:

Yup. Wrong forum. I moved it.

Oops!

Looking for three R200 3.9s and two R200 4.11s. Prefer local Southern California to save on shipping costs.

Well, its obviously not the calipers. Sounds like to the master cylinder piston is not retracting all the way allowing brake fluid to return from the calipers into the reservoirs. Check the pushrod between the brake booster and the master cylinder first.

Your engine only needs one cylinder head. Putting a N42 head on top of a 280Z head won't work. BTW... the N42 head is a 280Z head.

In the US, octane for pump gas is an average of the motor and research octane numbers. The number tends to be lower then in other places for the exact same fuel. Typical US octane numbers for Premium are 93 to 91. The P90 head tends to do better combating ignition and knock then most of the other L6 heads. If you're building a 300hp L6 engine then a lot of headwork will be required and you'll probably be welding up the chambers or running a domed piston of some kind. in that case you can design/build whatever combustion chamber you want.

Please, please, please search this site and read - for at least a month. All your questions have been answered by people who have posted here over the last 11 years.

If you don't know much about cars its going to be hard to fix the problem yourself until you get educated. First, buy the Haynes manual for your car from Amazon or a local bookstore (if you can find it there). Second, read it. Third, buy a basic metric tool kit. Fuel filter, air filter, etc. are good items to check. Also, go through the engine compartment and check all the electrical connections, vacuum hoses, etc. Good luck.

Still being paid to build HybridZs (and other things). Eight years so far.

Both of the bars pictured above are rear anti-roll bars for 1973 and later S30s. They mount in the stock location (ahead of the diff).

My condolences also. Floris and I will say a little prayer for your dad and your family. You're going to miss him in a lot of little ways over the years but that's part of honoring him and what he did for you.