johnc

Sorry to be a bit late. Are you still running a vacuum advance? If so, that is most likely the cause of this jumping around. Even if you're not running vacuum advance, take the distributor a part and tack weld the vacuum advance plate so it doesn't move.

Oops! Missed that.

My recommendation is to use the stock tank or a fuel cell that is FIA/SFI approved for road racing.

Doran Cunningham 6B http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNo99KcqGbQ Kahlengberg Triton S-120

Don't loosen the oil filter and start it up. Remove the oil pump and check it. You may have broken the two drive tangs in the top of the pump. Shattering the gears is rare, generally catastrophic, and the car would not run because you would have no distributor drive.

Its got some extra slack but you're not toast. Remember, the slack is taken up under acceleration so keep that in mind when setting the timing. The rotor will lag. You'll see variation at idle because of the light load and people assume that variation is constant under acceleration. Its not. It just varies at steady throttle.

At least in my situation there was zero measurable variance in ignition timing or firing up to 7,900 rpm with a distributor trigger. That was measured using Motec data logging and we tracked the firing of each cylinder from 4,000 to 7,900 rpm. Dead nuts accurate. (EDIT: within 1 degree of crank angle) Forgot to mention that we had a separate crank trigger on the engine at the time (on the engine dyno) which was used by the dyno software. Comparison showed the distributor trigger matched the crank signal that the dyno was picking up.

We used a ZX distributor body and a Motec stainless wheel with a Motec optical trigger. Instead of relying on your feelings, hook up a good meter and watch your actual ignition timing and firing. If there's any variation its far more likely in the distributor body then the trigger wheel.

Here's how driveshaft shops want the measurements: 1. Bottom the yoke in the transmission and pull it out 1". 2. Measure from the center line of the u-joint opening on the yokes to the flange face on the diff. That's the number to give to the driveshaft shop, along with the yoke.

Well... my race engine ran to a 7,500 shift point and a 7,900 redilne and we ran an optically triggered distributor wheel. That's with a full Motec M48 setup, 14 to 1 CR, etc. Ignition was rock steady.

Dumb idea. It won't add any appreciable strength because the rockers are the strongest part of the chassis already. That foam is also difficult to install correctly - you must completely clean the inside of the rockers and make sure they are dirt and rust free, not just covered over with POR15 or primer. And, if you ever have to repair the rockers, you're screwed. You can't weld on any panel that has foam behind it.

Check for bent parts on the side that hit the curb.

At least download the SCCA GCR from their web site (scca.org) and use the roll cage rules (Section 9.4) as the basis for your cage design and material selection. They have 61 years of experience with cars crashing on a road race track and their specified designs save a lot of lives every year.

No you don't need camber plates. You guys need to search more on this site. All of these questions have been answered dozens of times over the last 10 years.

BTW... if you bought the Tokico shocks for your 280Z (3012s and 3013s) the shop was right, they cannot section the struts because those shock bodies are too long.

You can send them to me. I media blast, crack test/inspect, section, and powder coat for $550.

No.

3. Read the ratio stamp on the ring gear.

No.

The center bores are also different from front to back and within model years. Nissan always made running changes during production. S30s are designed for lug centric wheels anyway so it looks like a 74mm center bore wheel should cover it.

That's some weird classing where you're up against a 750 four with your twin 650. Good ride.

Its there to cool and dilute the exhaust. When the SCR and Oxide Catalyst systems are working they generate a huge amount of heat and the OEM had to do something to cool the exhaust gasses which are over 900 degrees. Federal law (Dept. of Agriculture - US Forrest Service fire managment). http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/pdf/08511816.pdf

One harshness issue is poly tc rod bushings. Going back to rubber will reduce a lot of felt impact harshness and cabin noise. Also, make sure you have a good set of bump stops. You can also lower your front tire presses to about 29, assuming a normal S30 weight.

Oil viscosity is not the issue. 10W-30 should be fine if enough oil is getting to the cam. The new synthetics are so much better the the oil available on the 1970s that viscosity is much less important. I ran 5W-30 Redline in my race engine.

Ride harshness comes from: 1. Tire sidewall height, sidewall construction, and air pressure. 2. Shock compression damping. 3. Hard bushings. 4. Anti-roll bar end links. You problem is not the springs.