BrandenZ

He was kind enough to pick up, pack up, and ship down this bad boy from Summit Racing (on an extreme discount): http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/album/1291-fuel-cell/ The shipping was beyond robust, and protected the cell and all of the additional goodies perfectly! Thank you kindly for your generosity to a stranger. Unfortunately I likely won't have the opportunity to install the cell until post race season and likely over the winter break, but rest assured once I do, enthusiastic pictures will go up almost immediately. Thanks again, Zzeal! People like you are exactly what makes this community so amazing, and keeps me donating to the site on an annual basis.

Thanks so much, Steve! It's a steal indeed, coupled with a lot of generosity on your part! Expect pics to follow once she makes it over, followed shortly by a ton of pestering threads regarding the best way to plumb the darn thing and still be race legal. If you ever find yourself in Atlanta or trapped here on a layover, I owe ya one!

The OP may be able to answer that, but I can't. My roll bar touches the door panel when the door is closed. I would suspect with the bar out of the equation, that they would not touch. Also depending on how you choose to mount them, even using stock rails, you have a bit of say so in how you drill. You can choose to offset them (very slightly) either towards the doors or towards the center console.

JMort posted an amazing write-up on the various possibilities here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105207-the-dreaded-diff-clunk/ For me, I solved this problem with the R/T mount: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/35995-ron-tyler-differential-mount.html After a year or so of aggressively tracking the car, the clunking came back. That time it was an actual differential issue / preload / backlash issue. BTW -- Mine's also a 240z with an R180. Goodluck, hope it's a simple (and cheap) fix for ya!

If it's still there today when Steve goes by to check -- that'll be me. Then I'll just need you guys help figuring out how to isolate it from the driver's cabin and hopefully retrofit it to the stock fill location to I can pass tech and be track legal.

Any idea the advantages / disadvantages of going with something like this versus the Camaro fuel tank? An LS1/2 swap is in my not-so-distant future, and the fuel tank portion is the bit I'll likely try to sort first, perhaps even while the L-series motor is still in the car. I'm not adverse to cutting out the spare tire well. I assume I'd no longer be filling from the gas door on the side, but through the hatch instead. I also assume it'd be a bit noisier, likely partially in the cabin, and possibly higher up as well (worse from a weight perspective?). All that said, my Z very rarely sees the street, and lives mostly on a truck and trailer for track events / autox. I assume this would be better in preventing fuel starvation under hard cornering conditions, yes?

No problem and good luck! I took them out at an event last weekend and the seats + 4 point harness are incredible. Next to r-comps, it should've been the 2nd mod I did to the car. It makes a tremendous difference in comfort and stability to control the car at the limit, and really focus on looking ahead, not slamming your elbow into the cage or the console, or feeling like you're about to be ejected during slaloms! I sincerely hope they work out for you, I love 'em!

If you ever find yourself in or near Atlanta, feel free to let me know! I'll be happy to take you by the shop and let you check her out. Heck, pick the right weekend and you can go for a ride-along or two at a local event. In the meantime, it looks like you've got 35-36 inches, give or take, from the bottom-most point of the seat to the roof:

Thanks John, Pete. I'll check it all out and report back my findings.

That's a terrific suggestion! I will definitely check that out. Johnc / all -- any suggestions for how I might be able to track it down with any reasonable degree of success? It is absolutely not reproducible on the street, at least not in any legal capacity or one I'm willing to take part in. If it was, I could get it up on a lift in a hurry. About the only thing I can come up with is to beat her up on a track again, and have a buddy waiting with a hydraulic jack, pull off course as quickly as possible and get the rear up as quickly as possible with a mechanics stethoscope on the ready.

Okay so: 240z R180 WRX STi 3.9 clutch type differential with johnc side axles mated to stock halfshafts Wheel bearings replaced roughly 2k track miles ago Ujoints also replaced with wheel bearings I'm seeing a very interesting issue that I can't yet pin-point that is only reproducible under extreme circumstances / race conditions. It seems to be correlated to heat, but I can't prove this per se. It seems like after say 25 miles of hard track driving, or 15-20 autox hotlaps, the car will develop a very odd clicking noise out of the rear. It's timed exactly with the rotation of the wheels. It happens in neutral or in gear. The longer and harder I run the car, the louder and more pronounced the clicks get, but they always have the same frequency. I have yet to be able to track it down, because the second the car cools down, even as fast as it takes me to get it up on a hydraulic jack and stands, the clicks disappear. The exhaust also runs directly underneath the diff (PO did it, don't look at me!). My fear is that the exhaust temps climb, cook the diff, thin out the fluid, and I'm slowly destroying it. My alternative guess is wheel bearings, as I've never heard of u-joints clicking. I'm thinking of just swapping the darn wheel bearings in an effort to throw parts at the problem and see if it magically disappears, but thought I'd consult the oracle(s) here first. Any and all ideas welcome!

5'11, 33. My co-driver is 6'1, 32. I'd venture a guess that even he has an extra inch of headroom, and not a small variety of helmet either. I can try to take some pics of the space if it helps, or straight measure the bottom of the seat to the roof. The R100's have a dip in the seat, they actually sit lower than the stockers, even on stock rails, depending on how you choose to sit in them. Stock rails were a nice-to-have basically sheerly for passenger ride-alongs or occasionally having alternate co-drivers. We could've gotten them at least an inch, if not 2 inches lower just by welding some basic stock steel onto the factory mounts and deleting the rails entirely.

Just an FYI -- These work beautifully also with a cage (see pic). I got them mounted on stock rails for forward and backward movement, the recline works just dandy, the height is perfect for windshield visibility and helmet clearance, and it fits around my roll cage. I couldn't be happier!