danc

Guys: Thanks for the advice. Ended up finding a Holley switch (# 12-810) here locally that energized by the solenoid. It keeps the switch closed to the fuel pump unless the Oil pressure drops. Have several restarts on it without a problem so far. A relay would have been my next try..

Guys: I've fried 2 Summit Fuel Pump Safety switches on a SBC that I just got running in an 83ZX. They both worked O.K. until the car ran and was restarted. Thought the first one might have been defective, but I saw a tell-tale puff of smoke around the last one. (I'll put an in-line fuse in this time). I've talked to the Summit tech support guys on the correct hook up and was told it was O.K.: A. terminal hooked up to the Batt side of the HEI distributor. B. terminal hooked up to the tach side of the HEI distributor. C. termintal hooked up to the fuel pump. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm clue-less on this one!!! Anyone using the starter to energize the switch??? Thanx Dan

Lance: Just got an 83ZX conversion running a couple of weeks ago, and am still working out tach calibration, power steering hook-up, vacumn fittings, and a few other minor problems. It's not a 2+2, but the conversion is essentially the same with the only noted exception I know of being the driveshaft length. The excellent info and advice on this forum gave me the confidence to take this project on, and I'm very happy with the result. Take a look at my post on 17 May by danc subject: ZX SBC using MSA mounts. I'd be happy to share any other info that might be helpful. Everyone will tell you to buy the Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual (WEB site www.JTRpublishing.com)and I agree 100%. There are significant differences between a "Z" and "ZX" conversion starting wit the JTR motor mounts set-back plates which can't be used since a ZX firewall if approximately 3" forward of a "Z". As you will see in my earlier post, I used the Motor Sports Auto mounts, and am happy with quality and overall fit, but a few guys (Sean from Oklahoma is one if I remember right) fabricated their own too. The philosophy and general info of the JTR manual is very well advised. One very important aspect of the converion is to carefully label the morass of old wiring as you remove it, and take solice in the fact that you won't need most of it! Some of my "buds" laughed at all the labels I used on the wires, but none of them were conveniently around when I quickly found the right ones to hook up! There are a few guys on the forum with ZX conversions that have been running for a while who could offer sage advice. Good luck!

Anyone out there had any trouble with a Summit low oil pressure Fuel Pump Safety Switch (part#SUM-G1438)? I have an HEI Distributor and believe I have it hooked up correctly with: Terminal A. Going to the Batt side Terminal B. Going to the Tach side Terminal C. Going to the Fuel pump

BLKMGK Thanx for your take! Not sure if the 2 valves we are talking about could be that different, but think I'll pick one up and give it a shot. Not sure if I will be going EFI later on or not, but I do want to keep that as an option. The direction I ended up going with a new fastburn 385 was not exactly what I had in mind when I started this whole thing. Started out as a rebuild of an old cop car 350, then a 330 H.P. crate, then a ZZ4 355 H.P. crate. Now I'm planning on the "Hot Cam" and 1.6 rockers... Blah Blah Blah. I'm sure everyone on this forum has a like "twist", or we wouldn't be here in the first place. At any rate thanks!

Ross: Thanks for the reply. The brass In-Line Valve I am familiar with is a low pressure valve allowing air, but not gas, to escape the vent tube. I only found that out when the original valve failed on my boat. I filled the gas tank one evening which overflowed from the vent tube during the heat of the next day and ruined my pinstripe. The dealer knew exactly what the problem was and it hasn't happened since. Thought I would check to see if anyone is using any "magic" before I picked one up.

Guys: I need a solution on what to do with the return line too. I have an 83ZX, 385 H.P. SBC, Carter Elec Pump (GM part#& Box), Holley Carb and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Holley Tech guys told me they do not make a regulator with a return and I'd like to keep what I already have if possible. I'm very close to start-up and thought about using a one way fuel safety valve on the return such the ones used on boats to keep the gas from spilling out of the vent tube.. Thanks Dan

Jack300ZX: The is a conversion manual for the earlier "Z" available from Jags That Run (WEB site WWW.JTRpublishing.com) that is a must read and very helpful, but lots of areas do not pertain to the "ZX". I've just about finished with an 83 conversion. (Should be starting it up in the next several weeks). Check out my June 27 Post from danc that has some hopefully helpful info. I would be happy to grocery list the piece/parts that worked for me in addition to any other help I could lend. There are several folks on this forum who have "working" ZXs, and I'm sure they could be most helpful. I've done all of the work myself except the driver's side header modification and exhaust, but knowing what I do today, I'd definitely do it again! Good luck.

Ross: Thanks for the reply. Guess I failed to impress just how much of a block-of-wood I am when it comes to wiring. Think my problem is too many extraneous wires. I have 2 BIG white wires (one with a blue wire with it, and several wires for the dist (brown & Blue). Maybe I'm making this just too complicated, but at this point I'm about ready to find a local elec guy to get it hooked-up and put me out of my misery. Any more suggestions? Thanx Dan

Thanx for the response. It's an 83. I should have put that info in the body of the question. The JTR color code unfortunately does not match mine..

A wiring wizard I'm not! I'm at the wiring phase of my SBC conversion and haven't a clue-bag on what-goes-where on the distributor tach and batt sides and the Alternator wiring. JTR didn't help.. Anyone out there who can give me a quick tutorial? Thanx Dan

RADTAD I'm in the process of finishing an 83 conversion. I posted some lessons learned on 27 June that may be of some help. There are several ZX guys on the forum who know a whole lot more than I do, but I would be happy to offer and help I can..

Don't know if this helps much because I have a ZX, but I installed the B&M Console Model (82-92)Camaro Megashifter, and it fits very well. Had to do some minor trimming of the shifter hole, and make my own brackets, but I would do it again. I've had several B&M shifters over the last several years, and I've never had any problems with them. Cheapest place I've seen is Summit or Jegs for $150.

NEAPCO Part #N2-2899-1. I bought one a couple of months ago and it was $32.

Here are a few more lessons learned for the ZX guys. My 83 has power Rack&Pinion, so not sure how much of this applies to other set-ups but: The Hedman Tight Tube fit very well on the passenger side, but had to be "Big-time" modified to fit on the drivers side. Ended up with more of a fire wall exit shorty with the steering shaft running between the rear tubes. This set-up is very different from what some of the other ZX guys had to do. The rest of the exhaust worked out well with 2 1/2s into a flowmaster "Y" to single 3" back to a flowmaster with 2 1/4 outlets. PLenty of ground clearance, and only had to slightly "massage" the floorpan over the axle).Used a Sawsall to enlarge the opening in the rear pan a bit, but after a little clean up and paint, it looks like it belongs there! The other significant note at this point (close to, but still not running yet) is hood clearance (or the lack there of). I have a "medium" rise Goodwrench Intake Manifold (part#12496820)with a K&N 14" 3" tall element. While it does barely clear the hood, it won't when the engine moves around ANY. The other real issue is hot intake air/lack of air to the intake. I wanted to keep the car as stock looking as possible, while getting maximum fresh/cold air (already bought the ZZ430 "Hotcam" and 1.6 Rockers to take the Fastburn 385 to 430 H.P.) The solution I came up with is to cut out a portion of the center raised area in the hood skin to form a cowl induction scoop with a piece of old chevy hood. It ended up being a little over a 2" inch opening at the cowl. Same principle of a 69 Camaro Z-28 hood, but it looks great because it's a very gradual slope and a subtly exagerated form of the original hood contour. If anyone is more interested in these 2 areas, or has any questions about other piece/parts I've used so far,let me know..

Zmaize: I'm still a long way from "successful". My drive train (used the NEAPCO (part # N2-2899-1 GM to "Z" driveshaft adapter)) is finished including the shifter (used a B&M Megashifter 82-92 Camaro Console model)which fit surprisingly well using the the stock Z console. I'm having the exhaust system done week after next (2 1/2" into 3" flowmaster "Y" connector back to a 50 series flowmaster deltaflow. My 83 has a digital dash. I don't see any reason why it won't work after recalibrating the tach and hybrid GM/Z speedo cable. I've also talked to a couple of mechanics who share that belief. The other gauges are Ala the Jags That Run manual. I have been told it will not be an easy task to convert from digital dash to anolog factory or aftermarket gauges. I'll pursue that later as a refinement. I believe the mounts would be easy enough to fabricate, but in my case, it was something I didn't want to deal with for $225. I would buy them again. I elected to go with all GM accessories, and based on all the guys on this forum who have already been there, believe they will all work O.K. too. I am planning on using A/C, but won't get to that until at least next fall. Used most of the other stuff that's already been tried: 85 non-HD Camaro radiator, Black Magic 150 elec fan, Painless 700R4 lockup, etc. I'd be happy to give you the grocery list of piece parts after I make sure they all work out. I also bought a 1988 Caprice COP car and I actually made a few bucks after getting all the accessories, brackets, driveshaft, transmission core for $250 etc. I would go that way again too. I've done quite a bit of research in addition to the excellent info on this forum, but most guys who suggest buying the JTR conversion manual do not speak with forked tonge. A substantial portion does not apply to the ZX Per Se, but the concepts and overall philosophy are most valuable. I would also suggest a JEGs and SUMMIT Racing cataloge for piece parts. It can be done for a whole lot less I'm sure, but at 90-95% "spent" I have around 7K invested with mostly new parts ($3900 for the GM Fastburn 385). I'd be happy to keep in touch with my success in those areas I might be able to offer some insight. My best advice on taking the current ZX drivetrain out is to take your time and label the wires by component. Unless you are a wiring whizz (which I'm not) it's easier to discard the uneeded wiring as I've hooked various components up (except the fuel injection harness which you won't need). JTR recommends a "Z" manual, and I would echo that 100%.Good Luck.. Run Fast... Jump High.. Dan

Thought I would share a few lessons-learned so far on my 1983 ZX conversion using the MSA mounts with a SBC and 700R4. I'm generally pleased with the quality and fit but have a couple of lessons learned: There is less than 1/8" between the oil pan (Goodwrench Fastburn 385) and the rack and pinion housing. Some minor dimpling with a dolly on the oilpan solved that problem. The A/C hoses coming thru the firewall had to be bent about 20 degrees towards the passenger side to clear the valve cover. No mention in the MSA info, and it would have definitely been better to know that before I dropped in the engine in. The transmission mount template did not even closely resemble the driver's side bracket in my transmission tunnel but you can still get a general idea as to what needs to be done. Other than those minor problems, the quality and overall fit is good. I'm using Hedman Tight Tubes, and have the same problem on the drivers' side as "advertised" by several others. Again, thanks for the excellent forum/info sharing.

Guys: I stumbled across your forum last fall by accident when looking for ZX conversion info. Been reading it regularly since, and thanks to everyone for all the excellent general info, and especially those ZX guys who have provided so much valuable/practical advice. I've had my 83 "ZX" since 3K miles and have always liked the look and handling but, but have driven it less and less over the years due to Honda Civic like performance. I recently dropped in a fastburn 385/700R4 using the MSA mounts (they are in stock now). I still have lots of challenges left, but thanks to you guys I have some reasonable idea as to which direction I might go to solve some of the problems that will ineveitably be there! My only problem at this point is having the patientice to wait until I can finish up, get it out, and mash the motor! Dan

quote: Originally posted by z ya: Me and my father just finished the install of his brand new fast burn 385 sbc in his 75 280z.That motor is sooo nice.Its topped with a 750 demon double pumper and 1.75 Sandeson headers.the tranny is a TPI 700r4 with a b/m prostick.All we have left to do is the exhaust!He is going with car chemistrys inserts with 2.5 duals.Its gonna be nice!

Mitch: I'm looking for a header solution for an 83ZX/SBC with power rack&pinion. Thought I saw a post around the beginning of November on a 79ZX using a set of Hookers (part #2147 (which as you probably know is their 70-78 Z/SBC swap header)). I remember the comment posted about the drivers side header being in more than one piece.I wanted to follow-up since I do not have that part of my conversion solved yet either. Looked for the message earlier today and may have been confused on the date, but didn't find it. I'll let you know if I come up with any other solutions. I live around 70 miles from Jegs, and have a friend of a friend contact who works there. I may try to impose upon them and take my engine bay clearance space restraints to their parts desk and hopefully worm my way into their parts room to try various years of Camaro shorties. It may be several weeks before I'm able to work this, but if successful I'll post. Good luck! Dan

Richard: I would be interested in seeing a pic too. Thanx Dan

Bruce: I'm essentially in the same situation as you. I'll be converting a 1983 with a 350HO crate using 1988 Chevy Cop Car 700R4 and engine accessories; including A/C. I too have been reading this forum with interest, and have found it to be a very practical source of useful info. I've pretty much qualified most of the conversion obstacles (to my inexperienced satisfaction) that I'll be facing with the exception of the wiring/harness and the mechanics of having the driver's side header modified. (Think I'll be using a block huggers since I don't recall hearing and "ZX" shortie success stories).I have the JTR and TPI/TBI manuals, but have had zero luck in the JTR folks answering 2 E-mails on questions not resolved in their publications. I've also talked to MSA and John Radovich @ John's Cars in Dallas as well. (ALso have John's ZCartell me primer (don't waste your money)). Have heard some bad press on "Z" conversions using John's kit, but none that I remember on a "ZX". am close to buy a kit, but have not decided which I plan to use yet. John has answered my questions, both via phone and E-mail, while MSA has not. The difference in cost between John's and MSA ends up being around $275. If there is any new lessons learned aspect of my conversion that would be helpful, I'll post it. Good luck. Dan