zed240au

just my 20c but with the black flares i think u need the black spoiler seems to llok un finished with the red spoiler black ties it all together mick

well alan i must say i already respected your knowledge and opinion but to hear your comments on v8 converisions i am truely impressed i never expected a owner of such a fine car as yours to respect well engineered v8 conversions as the owner of a modified 240z for over 20 years i have found the predjuice towards v8 conversions especially in the club and some other internet sites to be at least very disappointing an thats putting it nicely I fully respect people to there own ideas of perfect car and for those that can afford a genuine orginal 240z or even a 240zg please buy them and cherish them for the cars they are But what i want from my car is not to leave it standard i find pleasure in improving it (at least in my opinion) i know my car was well past ever being restored to std orginal engine and gearbox gone more than likey would have been wrecked if i hadnt been young and stupid enough to start the rebuild at least on this site conversions are welcomed and supported so i say thank you alan for your knowledge and opinions

guy i bought the nos kit off was running a commodore (4 door version of the GTO) similar motor to mine said after 10 runs his std clutch was starting to flare so thats why i think need something bit stronger am looking here in aust at the textralia or local firm extreme use there clutch in my rx4 and has worked fine but happy to buy direct for usa if supplier will deal with australia What i read about the spec clutches ie people either luv them or hate them not much in between

just wondering of the guys running ls1 who running std clutches whos running after market upgraded clutchs and if happy with them what brand and type Im looking at mild mods hoping for 300kw at flywheel or bit better as well as adding shot nos for drags around 100 hp been looking at the spec type 2 plus or type 3 any info would be much appreciated thanks Mick

when i first changed to hilux calipers the guy i dealt with at local speed shop recomend some carbon pads said they where to suit skyline GTR man they where awsome but the discs only lasted 1500 km with them in When i changed to another speed shop they looked up there pad book said the biggest area pad they could find was Land cruiser not sure on year but they fitted fine got them in feredo brand pads havent tried them yet but they fit fine

Hi dave well its good to see a pic of how it should fit together i bought camber plates and coil overs off u (as well as a number other parts) but didnt buy your shocks as i alreadly had a set of bisteins (so i didnt recieve misalignemt Bushing) Can u give some dimensions on the size of the misalignment bushing i realize the shaft size will vary but im interested in the diameter and over all height between camber plate and monoball Have made my misalignment bushing but havent welded camber plates in to put in place and check how it fits at the moment Im worried my misalignment bush is not thick enough and possibly to large in diameter Be great to have the proper sizes to compare to Really glad u have come online and shown us how it should work and that 1i fast z was on the right track was really worried whether i was going the right way loading the mono ball up mick

of course the other benefit of seperate master cylinders is the ablity to adjust brake bias my rx4 was set up like this as it was built to dirt rally but i hated it the guys just used girlock trailer master cylinders 3/4 front and 7/8 rear But u had to stomp on them to make them work think its a personal thing the guys that built my rx4 where top rally drivers said it gave u more feel than a booster especially on gravel But for my driving i found a booster and std master cylinder works fine and the car still as quick though i havent been back on gravel since my navigator wrote off the car before this one which the brake system came fitted too

any good auto paint shop or panel beaters should be able to mix paint to suit

just my 10 cents worth i ran std 240z booster and master cylinder throught two brake upgrades and its still feels fine so id be inclined to try the 240z master cylinder first I first ran 240z calipers with good pads std rear 2nd hilux 4 spot calipers on std discs std pads and then good compound pads and mazda 929 rear discs 3rd hilux s12w calipers carbon pads on vented discs and mazda 929 rear discs so i reckon the 240z master cylinder work fine and ahs felt good through all my changes

if u want rear caliper with e brake in the caliper on vented discs one that does this is series 4 mazda rx7 vented discs and calipers with ebrake been running them on my rx4 rally car number years now work fine only trouble we has the e brake pulling on over bigger jumps on dirt rallies and some sealed rallies we ended disconnecting the ebrake got the hydraulic ebrake as well any way just coonect the cable one for rego issues for normal road work they work great and u can get decent pads for them too

ok this is something ive been trying to figure out as well to me i thought i would need to keep the coil top away from the the camber plate as per 1 fast z spacer so that the load is taken up by the mono ball and there is no binding of the coil hat to the camber plate when steering is this correct or wrong I dont have as much space on my bilstein strut to make spacer as big as 1 fast z but believe the spacer i have machined up will give me just enough The other reason i thought the load should be on the mono ball was i had heard people saying the coil overs and camber plates where noisy banging so i thought if its nice and tight with all things bolted tight should stop noise am i on the right or wrong track

man that looks great blueOvalz

i might be wrong but all the welders i talked with suggest you want the metal as clean as possible to get the best weld like when i put my roll cage in my rally car the welder had me run the angle grinder over every spot before he welded must say ive found it the cleaner the better for welding as for putting filler over primer read some interesting reports suggesting it makes very little difference between primer and bare metal though u have to rember primer will absorb moisture so the quicker u seal or top coat the better as for paint stripping i find good old paint stripper best and a 3m cleaning wheel to finish off

will take some pics for u at the weekend just waiting on tube cutter to finish mine off so there still apart mick

hi phantaz to answer your question and this is just the way ive decided to do it (i believe its the right way) the inside of the threaded tube has an section about 3/8 deep machined in it to sit over a collar welded to the strut tube very interested in the top of the struts though using my Bilstein struts i had to machine down the old fronts (im using new bilsteins in front and old fronts in rear to secion shorten struts)to accept the the top bearing dont have anywhere near as much room between the coil top and the top bearing at the momentas the ones in shown here ive machined a 3 mm spacer and locater hoping thats enought other wise ill have to pack with washers or machine a small lip into to coil top wont know till i fit them to the car later this week have pictures in my album if you want to see what im talking about cant work out how to show them here Mick

will measure the two calipers and let you know difference i have a set of mazda callipers nice and light am running the late toyota 4x4 calipers at the moment main difference i can see is pad area i believe the toyotas would have bigger pads and i had just bought new pads for the toyotas before buying the mazda calipers but am still tempted by the weight of them mick

well thanks for the sleepless nights BOY FROM OZ the way approvals work down here in Tasmania is they approve a engine conversion for 6 months after that you need to apply again if not finished technically a new application well my old approval ran out early febuary yeah i know im slow getting it done but wanted to build my own mounts and extractors but in the end decided to go with johns car kit and jtr extractors (been a bit of a wait to get stuff from USA) why invent the wheel when its already been done might as well go with a proven product and save a lot of headaches So after reading BOY FROM OZ statement that australian rules had changed in febuary this year i sent my application back in very worried but today i got my approval granted for a further 6 months gonna bust my butt now and get it done in the 6 months i have So all i can say is want a V8 in a zed come to tasmania we might have 2 heads but at least we can register our v8 zeds

have a look at street machine this month they are suggesting putting a 350 cube taken out to 440 cube motor in there expression session i do note that they dont have the engineer suggestions in these articles any more but they used to have aengineer saying what is possible so i would think that they are suggesting it could be done and registered Still think it all comes back to the engineer involved