zed240au

well i just cut the line with tube cutters and put fitting on and flared line easy enough done but if i was doing it again i would split transmission from engine and fit braided line direct to clutch fitting would also fit a braided line to bleeder with bleed nipple on other end so i can reach it at manifold level much easier to bleed than trying to do it in the tunnel just a tip i saw on aussie ls1 site mick

i used a pbr jb1419 1" master cylinder plenty of capacity mick

what u need is a cablex box from abbott enterprises www.atrol.com converts electrical pulses to small motor which drives existing speedo not sure on price but will fix your problem have just mounted mine about to calibrate it but all looks good so far mick

i did buy a dry nos 100 hp system for my ls1 but havent fitted it as motor is tuned mafless and been told id have to tune it with maf to run dry nos looking at selling dry system and buying a wet one as looks easier to fit was looking at the 75 hp wet kit well priced here mick

i did tank myself cut hole in top and then fitted fuel bowl from injected daewoo cut top out of daewoo tank as well and welded that into top of z tank made mount for walboro internal tank using pump mount from daewoo tank along with pipe inlets and outlets then got local shop to check for leaks cost $50 for daewoo tank and $50 to seal leaks mick

i ended up wiring in aftermarket tacho worked straight away so modified housing of orginal tacho and fitted aftermarket tacho inside std housing looks std and still have indicators in tacho mick

i put a bowl in bottom of tank and fitted walboro internal pump dont have to put up with pump whine that way fitted pressure reg down back on front of tank return line straight from reg to tank same way gto have it that way only need single line to engine mick

was wondering if anyone has used std tacho with ls1 and knows how to connect it without sending to jci guy who did my wiring loom left wire from computer out to run tacho but when i connect that to signal wire into tacho nothing happens using std 240z tacho have second 240z tacho converted as per jtr but that dont work either Know jci can do it just didnt want to have to send tacho to usa looking at maybe fitting later tacho guts to 240z housing if i cant sort it out Did read on another forum that signal is not strong enough from computer to drive older tacho and that need to connect 12 v via step up resistor Any ideas or help much appreciated thanks mick

i got the gto mount alternator to work but did it by using the standard front mounts cutting the output supply post on alternator as short as i could and making a new rear mount out of 5/16 steel shaped to fit around cross member engine mount mick

yeah have to agree that run steering coloum through center of pipes is the best way for it I did mock headers like that but got put off when couldnt fit them with engine in place might tackle a set now ive seen them made but will enjoy car a bit first with the ls1 in it but you have given me the inspiration to try long tube headers again when i get a week to try thanks mick

well done jeremy having made my own rhd header for my ls1 install i salute you amazing work i really didnt think there was enough room there to do it was just happy to get something too fit after making up 3 or so sets that wouldnt fit well done mick

would be able to palletise motor and gearbox take gearbox off and sit side by side with engine so would fit on std pallet 1.1 x 1.1 x .8 metres would be shocked if cost more than $300 with frieght can check from this end sent gearbox to perth 2 years ago for $145 can deliver to freight company depot in devonport tasmania exhuast would be only issue if you wanted it but still could mark and cut it you could re weld over there have pvt messaged my phone and email mick

hi have mounted my alternator in std gto position but like you not overly happy with the clearance i believe it would be ok but if you can make something for $200 that fixes issue id sure be interested in buying one where exactly are you gonna mount alternator mick

Trying to chase the rev limit issue i changed to 600 vacum secondary holley it was dyno tuned and was running electronic igition by then but rev limit stayed Later tuned 600 vacum secondary with old guy just tuning it by plug and drive method came down 60 main jet sizes and it ran so crisp was real good same guy suggested the 600 double pumper which he fitted ran good but i reckon felt crisper with the 600 vacum secondary carb Car was good ran 14 sec quarters and good times at local track Understand the nissan thing but i just wanted more hp and the rev limit issue just wore me down in the end thats why i went for the ls1 chev option was always gonna take the heads off and port them plus hotten the cam up a bit there a really strong engine sure they could make good hp with bit of development Im in tasmania bit of a problem i know but anyway offer is there happy to help anyway i can Mate locally is pretty keen to fit the nissan v8 into his 260c but hasnt done anything for ages Mick

I have complete y44 with celica 5 speed and brass button clutch hand built extractors holley 600 dp carb pirranha electronic igition and falcon alternator plus mounts ready to bolt into 240z 260z with complete engine gasket kit and twin 2" stainless exhaust to suit 240z with this engine $1700 the lot it did have problem which i never solved seemed to have rev limiter at 5500 rpm just went flat changed every thing ignition carb never got rid of it guessing it was valves or valves springs might be able to make good motor out of the 2 luv to see it in another zed not sure on freight to wa though pic of engine in car

im running gto motor used aeromotive fuel reg at tank with return line straight back into tank and single line to fuel line on injector rail works fine used plumbing type olive fitting on fuel rail and braided fuel line with hose clamp works fine too mick

i used std ls1 engine loom and computer Had matt from http://www.injectedholdens.com/ modify it He placed relays and fuses into loom for fuel pump fan engine and few other circuits plus identified the ignition,power ,earth ,alternator light ,voltage sensor, tacho ,speedo and reverse light switch from loom might forgot some but thats most of them Matt really knows his stuff and is easy to talk too Mick

the gto shifter places the gearlever further back than the camaro i cut my tunnel to suit but its right back against the ash tray hole so ended up buying after market camaro shifter off ebay was very cheap and nasty didnt like the fit or feel have since bought a hurst shifter off ebay much better quality but found it didnt line up with the gear box so i moved the shifter part 10mm forward on mounting plate works fine now though i reckon for all my mucking around would have been better just buying the bm shifter mick

i used and most people here have used the camaro sump for my 240z if the z32 is anything like the 240 would be worried about the depth of the moroso one u suggested as the camaro is no where near as deep and hangs plenty low enough the corvette sump may be an option too but it has wings on each side which can be an issue for fitting dont forget (like i did) that u will need new dip stick and tube plus oil pick up and windage tray when u change sumps have seen the camaro sumps on ebay in aus for around $280 good luck with the install mick

earlier ls1 are cable throttle mine is 99 commodore (or gto) over there i was of the belief that camaros and earlier ls1 were all cable throttle might be wrong but know was easy to install cable on mine as had already changed to cable for holley 600 on previous v8 install mick

thanks guys will try filling with top hose off mick

does thermostat have to go to top radiator outlet is my question reason is i have ls1 with jtr radiator fitted hoses so thermostat outlet went to bottom of radiator and center outlet from pump went to top radiator outlet ran car like this and temperature was all up and down and everytime i checked coolant was down so obviously not filling up properly but then i thought hang on thermostat normally goes to top outlet on radiator but when i look hear most people are running hoses the other way like i first fitted so which is correct thanks for any feedback mick

i know its a bit of a rough way to do it but when i was struggling to get my motor started wasnt sure if injectors firing ended up pulling injectors and rails out laying them on top of motor and cranking motor over like that found that i had 4 dead injectors on one side but at least it shows you if injectors are firing mick

looks great well done cant believe how different the engines look with out the injection mick

engine bay is paint in 2 pak enamel same as rest of car the actual paint is speis hecker and colour is a bmw red from late 80s actual name is zinnerbott not sure if that is spelt properly used johns cars mounting kit with jtr header on left and my own header on right to allow for right hand drive with jtr radiator mick