DavyZ

Cliff, welcome to the forum! Please understand that there is precious little information on converting a 300ZX to V8 power. That said, it can be done, but you may be paving the way for yourself and others. If you are mechanically inclined, can fab a bit, and have resouces ($$$$), this is not a bad way to go. Check with your state's smog laws before proceeding, please. If it will fit, an LT1 engine and transmission from a Camaro would be the hot ticket. Your car is EFI and so is the engine. Best thing to do would be to buy the TPI/TBI engine swap guide from JTR and meybe even the V8Z conversion manual (for a timeline and plan). Good luck. Davy

The R200 came in most 280Z's. Just be sure that you get an R200 and not an R180 (know the physical differences). The beauty of the R200 is that it is practically a bolt-in in place of a R180. The 230 is best, BUT there is a lot of fabbing needed until Tim comes through with a KIT!!! Davy

I don't think one can give a generalization about handling of the V8 converted ZX's. Here's why: they are not on the same chassis as a 280Z, period. They are different, yes, but even when converted, they still handle well. Ross Corrigan is the only guy I know personally on this site who has a very nice converted ZX that he takes to the track on occasion. His car is set up very well and apparently handles very well too See pics at http://www.modern-motorsports.com/miscpics/mycar/aug19.htm HTH, Davy

The 3.54 R200 is a most common (around here anyway) IMO. If you can get a 3.36, or best yet a 3.15, you will be doing yourself a favor in general. As Pete mentioned, the Z has smaller diameter tires and going with 4.11 gears does not help any at all, especially with cubes like a 383 has. Just food for thought. Lone, I'm not trying to nit-pic or anything, but aren't lower gears actually higher numerically? 4.11's are low and 3.15's are high? Not dumping on you, Buddy, especially after a long day of caring for your bro. I was just getting confused and had to put it down in black and white to understand again, that's all. Davy

I echo Pete's thoughts that a WORKING knowledge is very important--nearly more than book knowledge initially, but if you can get a book much faster than a community college class, that's OK too. The community college class is certainly a good way to get a good general knowledge about cars, their basic systems, and how to maintain them. More advanced classes deal with repair and trouble shooting, but you can get very good instruction from a Chilton's (don't laugh guys)or Hayne's (not now either) manual for Chevrolet engines. However, I find that reading books that INTEREST ME, help me learn MORE than just the basic literature. With that in mind, the following sources are pretty darn good (in no particular order): 1)Hot Rod and Car Craft Magazines 2)How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy by David Vizard 3)How to Build Small Block Chevy V8 Race Engines by Tarrant and Hawkinson 4)How to Build Horsepower Vol 1 by David Vizard 5)How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget by David Vizard (more advanced reading) 6)Build the Small Block Chevy by Larry Atherton and Larry Schreib And there are more... Basically, whatever book is able to maintain my interest keeps me learning. I love Vizard's books and Atherton's books for that very reason. If you are falling asleep reading a (text)book, then it is not doing you any good. That is one reason why I like the guys I just mentioned, and is also the reason why a practical application class or whatever is great for developing a working knowledge of the automobile. Good luck! Davy

I have heard that the 2+2 has better headroom, and that combined with the fact that you already own it is reason enough to do the conversion! Best thing for a 2+2 is the V8 treatment!! Driveshaft length should be it for any differences. Please make sure you look into doing a JTR-type conversion--they look cleaner IMO, although I'm not sure what real handling improvements it would make on a 2+2 because of the additional length of the vehicle. However, anytime you move the weight toward the center of the car, that is almost always an improvement. Davy

I used to own a turbo Volvo, but I am not an expert on turbos (yet). If the turbo is not getting oil or is getting oil and water mixed, then that is not good for the bearing. I frankly would not try to drive it until I found out the problem. TEC or Turbocity makes (or made) a neat kit for the Toyota trucks--reroutes a new oil line away from the exhaust, new downpipe (bigger is better and no kinks!), and possibly a bigger turbo. The report in Turbo magazine (from ages past, sorry) raved about the increased performance. As I remember it, the upgrade was only $699, but that was a long time ago. Hope you don't ruin the turbo if you run it! Davy

quote: Originally posted by Zpeed: ahhh good idea, i'll do that. weld sheet metal to the back then smooth it with bondo, not a bad idea. thanks Zpeed, just make you you flange the metal, that way the center becomes flush with the body (fills the cavity to the desired shape), and the flanged edges are then welded to the body from behind--that way bondo is kept to a minimum and overall strength is greater. Hopefully this makes sense. Davy

Cost is always a factor with 90% of people, so a 500 hp Donovan aluminum block 355 with twin cam heads and EFI is not an option. The Chevy 350 makes great power, great torque, responds well to mofication, and is relatively inexpensive. Combine this with a fabulous aftermarket and the way it ever so nicely fits in the Z's engine bay, and viola--tire smoke for days. I am biased because I have a N/A V8. Preference is an individual thing and I am limited by $$$ for the time being. If you are not, go for something new. But beware, because even with outstanding technology, someone with a 'low-tech' BBC Zcar will blow you away in the weeds. When my car is finished, I plan to win most races I am in, but I'm prepared to lose because there is always someone faster. Davy

You can use the stock mount provided it is in good condition. Datsun uses a pathetic retaining strap to keep the diff front up if the mount gives way, but this is NOT the best solution. An inexpensive fix is to use plastic covered steel cable and wrap it a couple of times around the front of the diff and the mount; secure with metal cable clamps or ties--this retains the isolation qualities of the mount and adds a considerable amount of strength to the unit. Another option is to do what Scottie GNZ did and that's to use mild steel which is bent to shape over the end of the diff and bolt it to the same front diff crossmember (I think I got that correct ). Does this make sense? Davy

I'm not sure what the laws are in the other states, but here in CA if the car looks OK and not a hazard, they frankly don't care what you have. I think 99% of the police would even recognize lexan windows. Davy

The best way would be to fill in the holes with some sheet metal. You have to flange the outside of the metal to make the piece fit flush from the back to the front. Bondo fills in any seams after welding quite nicely. Davy

MacDaddy, Your car looks like a million bucks anyway Davy

Did someone mention the harmonic dampener yet? That is, how the heck do they hold it on with no bolt? Grumpy? Pete? Anyone? Davy

quote: Originally posted by gmewett: i have a 260z and in the process of putting a 350 sbc in i an told that i will have to support the diff is this correct and if so how ????? What exactly do you mean by 'support?' Do you mean swap it out for a larger diff? Please clarify so we can help. Thanks!! Davy

I think it gives the car a custom or more 'modern' look with the indicator between the door and wheel--that is where I would mount them. I'm considering something similar to yours or even some from a motorcycle. It'll look great when it is finished! Be certain to post some pictures Davy

Are they 4" flares or close to it? Davy

Owen, The new wheels look positively sano for being as little in price as they were. Very great deal getting them directly from Japan. Makes me think that we are getting ripped off to buy a set of say, Volk Racing wheels for only $3000??? I thought your wheels were Porsche rims at first glance, but they look even better. Please post some pics after you get them mounted with rubber. Welcome back from Japan! Davy

Biggest I've ever seen! Very sweet looking engine. I like the way the braided steel hoses are shielded from rubbing against the valve cover, etc. A lot of hard work there--looks great! Davy

Very nice work, Terry! Davy

First, welcome to the forum! There is precious little information on any V8 swap for the 3rd gen Z cars. However, Motorsport Auto sells a V8 swap the kit for the 2nd generation Z cars if you are so inclined ('82 model). I think you are on your own with respect to the 3rd gen swap, sorry. Davy

Craig, That's pretty cool! Unless you didn't want to take the paint off... At an automobile dealership I worked at, we had a steam/power sprayer that was super for taking grease & grime off of engine bays, etc. They even used it to wash cars with! On occasion, an employee would hold the nozzle too close to the plastic bumper on a brand new Volvo...the paint would just come right off; ewww, ouch, it gets mighty expensive doing that... Davy

$1600 reserve...I rest my case. And with only 12 hours left (at the time I write this) he will be hard pressed to get it IMO. Still, it gives you an idea of what people think it's worth. Davy

Thanks for passing that info on!!!!! Davy

I have used "Belt-Dressing" and it is a good product; at least the one made by Permatex is. After belts have slipped a while, they build up a bit of glaze on them and no matter how tight you get them, in the right conditions they seem to slip! The belt dressing helps to break up the glaze (seems to anyway) and return them to 'normal' status, but make sure you tighten them up before using!! Also, if your belts are old, please replace them because any dressing is a band-aid fix at best if the belt is old, worn, and ready to go. Davy