DavyZ

RacerX, Thanks for the info--I had not thought of that--kinda like a steam/high pressure system? Pretty cool. My wife really wants a steamer (like the ones advertised on those infomercials) and I hope to have the cash to get her one this year. I figure I can use it for car parts and anythign else I darn well desire! Heh heh, I may even clean a tiolet or two! Davy

Les, Happy New Year! Yes, John's kit is a wide-body SIMILAR to Terry's--you are correct in that respect. I probably read your post incorrectly. John's kits are pretty cool and, just as Mike stated, they are an excellent building foundation for a 'dream Z'. Davy

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ Email Ross and tell him what you are planning to do. I'm quite sure he has the ability to help you with what you are planning to do Davy

I have heard of people picking them up for as little as $800 and as expensive as $2400 (includes clutch assy, etc). The present median price seems to be about $1200-$1400. A lot of it depends on the part of the country you are in and the local availability of the transmission. Davy

If smog issues are nonexistant for your state where you reside, go for a later Z. Weight is not really an issue since the car will be very fast anyway, and you can always build a stroker motor if you genuinely feel the 280 is slug, but I really doubt you would. The 280 is a bit better made than the 240 and will most likely be in better condition since it is a newer car. I like the door and window mechanisms in the 280 better, not to mention the trim and interior. I have to skirt the smog nazis in my state, so a 240Z it is for me, but I would take a 280Z in a second if smog were no issue. BTW, when I say smog is an issue, I'm just stating that I could comply with the regulations and equipment, but this limits the upper end power that I crave and the freedom of ultimate creativity IMO. Plus, why spend money on smogging the car every other year? If the price of the 280Z is right and the car is clean, snatch it up and do the swap--just make sure you budget yourself very well, otherwise you'll lose interest in the swap over time (not what you want). Good luck! Davy

This has been a VERY interesting thread, and through all the engine combos I keep running around in my mind, for the money:value ratio, it seems that a long rod 355 may be my ticket, even with forced induction. The other motor choice would be a 383 due to the plentiful availability of the parts. Decisions, decisions... Thanks, Grumpyvette for the wake up call. Davy

quote: Originally posted by Les Heath: RacerX you can get the bodykit like Terry's from John Washington. The kit is basically a GT2 set, Terry's is a little more advanced than John's. I believe that John's kit goes for about $1900. Les, not to take anything away from John Washington, Terry's car is in a whole different league. I have real, close-up photographs of Terry's car (including the original 1983(?) kit car mini-article about it), and I can tell you that it has features, scoops, bends, and styling that John Washington's kits do not have. Still, I love John's kits and will probably buy one of his kits if I fail at producing my own ---this is just an FYI/IMO--don't mean to offend anyone. Davy

Your work is looking really good, Tim. Thanks for posting on your progress--it always is of interest and it definitely helps others along! Davy

Eric, Ross Corrigan had a brand new set of 3:36 gears for sale for only $350 as I recall. Even though he advertised them, he still had a bugger of a time selling them. I'm not sure how $700 to $900 sounds to most people, but it is almost worth the money to go with a Vette rear end like Scottie did or go with a T56 transmission at that point to help spread the gears. Perhaps some of our racing mates can speak up. John Coffey, are you listening? Davy

The whole thing wreaks of dead hampsters I tell you. Funny story that came to mind yesterday when I was thinking about this stuff: My mother's second husband was a well connected man who was photo'd by one of these gagets in Germany (they were citizens) where they have been using them for years. Well, he called up a buddy at the DMV office in Munich where they lived and fixed it so that the points would go on my mother's license instead of his! lol Haha! He never bothered to tell her about it, but only everyone else. Too funny! I guess the pictures are pretty clear and faces show up very well--kinda unmistakable who the driver is. It doesn't matter, I still hate 'em. Davy

I had VDO guages in my 510 that I really liked--they were accurate, never erratic, and didn't leak (except one time when the connection came loose--my fault). Guys are running several different brands of guages here and don't hear of too many complaints about any of them. Davy

Al, the more I think about it, I don't think it was me who emailed you about different dampeners--sorry to confuse you if I did. Chevy did make different pointers in the SBC--some have pointers that are in the top central location of the timing cover, while the other location is off to one side. You have to have 'like with like' (like dampener with like timing pointer) in order to get a correct reading and make sense of the issue. Hopefully this clears things up a bit and does not confuse the issue more. Anyone else care to comment? Davy

CorZette, are you still in Japan? If not, go to Home Depot because they should carry it. Davy

The T10 is a 4 speed and is not desired if you do freeway driving. It is strong, however, and good for drag racing. The T5 is rather weak, but a WC T5 (World Class T5) is a bit better, is light, and fits very nicely in the Z. I bought a WC T5 because JTR recommended it, it was cheap, and I cannot afford the T56. The T56 is the strongest and best for the z IMO if you can afford it. I eventually want one, but cost is a big issue with me right now. Davy

Just SLAP a few for us now and then! Way too cool Scottie; glad to hear it's going to be a winner. Davy

quote: Originally posted by ZGimp: Davy, you are very right about the companies recieving revenue for tickets given... Yep, that's what one article said happened. IMO this is NOT the best thing because it is not in the public's best ineterest. If there are scandals surrounding these things, maybe it is a good idea to buy items meant to 'camophlage' your license plate. Dan, I agree with you on the speeding issue--best kept for the track or the boonies. Where I live, many business parks still have some business going on during the weekends. Plus, the police sometimes patrol those areas so they are off limits IMO. Davy

Whoa! James, the article that you emailed me gave information that the company that installed the cameras get a portion on the revenue. That is not good IMO, because their interest is would lie in making money...so if the system has 'flaws' it is in their financial interest. What would have been better is to give them money based on how flawlesly their system operates (ie the fewer the problems, the higher the return). This information completely changes the outlook in many ways. And it may actually explain why I was stuck at that light!!! Maybe they were just waiting for me to get mad and run the redlight?? Could it be?? Very disconcerting IMO. Again, thanks to James (RXO510) for the email and the additional information. BTW, the cities that have this in place already will do their utmost to keep it there and keep it running. Why? They have spent $$$$$ installing these things and get income from them too. Plus, it is cheaper than employing a police officer and the lights never have to take a coffee & donut break, ever. I'm for a limited amount of use of these devices, only at 'bad' intersections, but I don't like monitoring devices in general Davy

They installed the photocameras (photoradar?) in out town at the major intersections. I don't think it is a bad idea, BUT what if you NEED to go through or get out of the way on a red light?? I was at a red light for 7 minutes (waited through 3 cycles before the stupid light came my way) and I almost said 'screw it!' and blew through the light. I ended up not doing it, but it made me angry to know I almost would have had points on my record for having to get to my destination! Machines can make mistakes IMO and I hope I don't have to put up with the stupid things in that way. I hate being monitored by the government in general, but I do see these things snapping off pictures of blantant violators. They do work. Since my city is a path for motorists to travel through to the surrounding cities, the problem of redlight runners and people that 'push the yellow' is becoming too much of a problem. This may help alleviate the redlight runners and the like. Anyway, just food for thought. BTW, if you have to disguise your license plates because you don't want to get photographed by these cameras at intersections, take a good look at how you drive--are you running red lights?? If so, maybe you should not be driving? Davy

Thanks, Grumpyvette. I add these and others to my reference list. Davy

Just brutal lookin' Terry! I will venture out in to the world of composites and fiberglass as soon as I get the garage whipped into shape. I'll start with the spoiler and then go to rear tail lights. I like your choice of the signal lights too--they work so well with the vents in the front end. Piece of art I tell you. Davy

I'm surprised no one bothered to answer this question. Years ago I wanted to get a Monza/Pacesetter exhaust system for my car and I did a little bit of research for it. From what I found, they are a decent system and do the job. However, they are prone to rust if you live in areas with salted roads. If you have an inline 6 motor and are looking for a little bit more snap, not to mention a nice exhaust note, they are not a bad choice for the money. If you have a pretty modified motor, then you should look at a larger mandrel bent system with better mufflers to boot. Custom made is the best, but unfortunately more expensive, way to go. Just my $.02. Davy

Thank you, Pete--that was exactly the one I was thinking of. Davy

$2400 so far not including the cost of the car. I will spend an additional $150 or so for a driveshaft (I'm guessing) but not much more. Of course, the chassis mods and suspension mods just add to the bill. The $2400 includes the following: engine, transmission, flywheel, exhaust system, roll bar kit, JTR kit, etc. This is a very 'clean' budget performance build, but I still need a car... Davy

Very sweet looking car! All the body lines and everything is tastefully done. For being a "Scarab" the car has the engine back about as far as it will go in a Scarab conversion; that's good! Thanks for posting the pic, and yes, Auxilary is one heck of a guy. Davy

Well shoot, if you don't have to pay for your gas, visit the Mad max websites and look for a pic of the blower sticking up out of the hood on his car. Duplicate that and then post the pic. Nothing meaner looking than a blower sticking out of a car's hood. It says, "Don't race me because I'll make you look stupid." Davy