rudypoochris

Try different keywords. For instance "Rota RB". Instantly in one search that would have found you all of the information you would probably need and some.

You really ought to read the forum rules. Not trying to be a Nazi, but you double posted a moment ago on the 2jz v. RB and clearly didn't search on this one. BUT... good news, I'm organizing a group buy on the RB's in the "Group Buy" section if you are interested. Also, I believe Bartman has some experience with the 17x8.5" +4

Any color on rotawheel.com link is no extra cost. 3-5 months is correct. They told me 3-4 but it is always nice to have a margin of error.

Black dragon sells a repair kit for around $160, does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit? Thanks

That is beyond my knowledge. There are people in this forum who have had them, try a search, I forget their name and modifications. Personally a 245/50/16 16x8 +10 doesn't fit on my 240z with coilovers, but that doesn't mean much. So not sure if that helps.

17x8.5 +4 offsets are currently available through Kim at rotawheel.com

Wow, 300lb difference? You sure not 30lbs?

What makes a ZXR different? Didn't they come with CLSD? Or is that the Japanese version, or 300ZXR?

Not trying to spam... but... there is a group buy going for those exact wheels in 17x9.5" -19 offset 4x114.3 pattern for our Z's. Right now we have approx 15-16 buyers out of the 25 we need to get that custom size made. Check it out: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123576 Price, last time I heard, is $750 shipped or $700 if you pickup in Hayward, CA. Lag time 3-4 months depending on factory. The idea is to fit 275/40/17's all around or atleast 275's on the rear 245 or 255 on the front. PS. Those wheels look great on on that car.

What cars featured Mexican blocks? Were any of them late model 5.0L HO's?

Did you weld the metal tubing around the cell? Or could you buy that piece somewhere and cut it down?

Interesting. How many gallons is that fuel cell? Can you get rid of all the evap and resevoir stuff with the fuel cell? I am currently planning on doing the fuel area and can't decide weather a cell or a new tank is the way to go. Out of curiosity, how did you fasten the metal plate+cell to the actual body? Weld?

Fantastic! Even with out moving the steering shaft. Very nice.

Are magazine weight quotes good, or are we sticking to real data? EDIT: Just noticed the first hand clause.

Okay guys... Might want to start a new thread... In response to your question though, since you asked. I currently HAVE 4 Rota 16x8 +10mm 245/50/R16 fitted Grids. They clear coilovers no problem and probably would clear stock springs. You would need to roll the fender slightly. There is rubbing at the rail as well. A 245/45 would probably fix this. Alternatively you could space out probably 5-10mm. So I would believe a +4 or +0 would be ideal in your case... Hope that helps. If you want my wheels + tires I am selling them for too much money. BUT I already filed out the hub bore to clear 280z hubs. PM me if your interested. As for your wheels SHADY280, mind measuring the backspacing? I am really interested. From the inside lip to the mounting surface would be great to know. I would like that -19 double checked. I did build a mock wheel, but it is always best to be too sure.

Okay. Quick clarification... does one remove or keep the tape on before screwing it into the fitting? I plan on using 2 90 degree swivel fit 1/2" NPT to AN hose connections, then 2 straight swivels to 1/2" NPT. Do the standard AN hose connectors work with normal hose and SS or one of the other? Thanks.

Well a 9.5" rim width is actually around 10.5" total since you need to add about 1/2" for each lip. Thus it is 10.5/2 = 5.25 - 19mm = 4.5" Back spacing and 6" front spacing.

I am currently trying to reroute the oil to the frame rail from the engine. The lines that came with the kit were too long and nasty looking. I have always wondered how to work with AN SS line but I can never find an article or a place where they explain it. The guys at summit linked me to this: http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Swivel-Seal%20Hose%20Assembly.pdf Is that the right article? If so, any advice on that procedure (for instance cutters vs hacksaw, anything blatently wrong with it). Is AN good for atleast 250 degrees and 250 psi? Also, what components would I need for just these two hoses. I see there are AN O-rings and other miscellaneous stuff offered and I just want to make sure I am not missing something. So far it looks like: -4 Hose ends 1/2" NPT on onside -8AN on the other -Length of -8AN hose That is all, correct? Thanks guys.

Did you beat the fire wall any? Are you using a Fox pan? I'm guessing complete custom mounting? I think I would drop the V8 alot more, I just didn't since it is already below the frame rails (talking about where the driver/pass sit). How far below those rails does yours sit? I am wishing I spent the money and went dry sump, that engine could sit so much lower (like yours).

Wow, nice. Is that wood there to simulate a frame rail? Is the engine really THAT low? Did you go dry sump or something?

What manual trans are you going to go with for the VH? Those are good engines, close deck. Where are you getting your forged pistons for how much? I know complete assemblies for the windsors are pretty cheap. I still would have gone 351W though. Reason being: -351W is cheaper to build up and repair. -Going out on a limb and guessing the 351w is more compact (confirm someone?) -There are readily avilable mounts for the windsors -The two engines weigh about the same (Think the 351w is 510-525lbs iron headed, the VH is 510-520lbs alluminum everything). With AL heads the 351 should be lighter -Extra 28% more displacement. Better power curves for road course. Either will be awesome though.

Here is a rendering (what Kim sent me) of a +4 17X8.5 RB. A -19 17X9.5 RB would have an extra inch or inch and a half of lip.