rudypoochris

Seems about right. Chevrolet listed the LS1 weight at 497lbs prepped for a manual transmission. According to tremec, the T-56 weighs between 108-129lbs. So that would be 605lbs to 626lbs. Not sure if the LS1 weight Chevrolet listed was dry or wet.

I asked Kim to jot down some form of payment info or something, but I think there is sometimes a slight communications gap or he is simply very busy. I sent him an email asking your question though. I am sure he has done this many times, but it is still good to know.

Okay. The Rota Rep's email address is: kimcosmic@juno.com He has requested that you all send him an email with your wheel color choice. Please mention that you are in the HybridZ group buy somewhere. It is also probably adviseable to let him know what wheel you are talking about. Here is what I sent: I will also be emailing everyone on the group buy list to inform them that they should go ahead and contact the rep. Sorry if you recieve this information twice but the persons who do not frequent the forum must be informed. Happy color picking.

Great! I got a reply from Kim (the rep). He requested that we start emailing him color choices. I will release his email address after he gets back to me about payment details, so please don't email just yet! I asked him to jot down your payment information now as I do believe it is in the best interest of the group buy that we do not have issues later down the line. He should still be billing only once they ship though, not immidiately. In any case, check out: http://rotawheel.com/rb1.htm And start choosing wheel colors! There might be more available, some options (like polished lip vs. painted etc.), honestly I don't know. You may ask the rep when I drop the email here later today. PS. I am all over that Royal Gold with polished lip. Enough said.

PM sent. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have been thinking about this whole donation thing for quite some time now. Normally I really couldn't accept money from you guys. I did not create this group buy looking for any sort of profit or benefit. I greatly appreciate it though. I feel that if I do accept and something goes wrong (say the factory ends up taking 5 months or the wheels have some sort of unforseen fitment issue [unlikely]) I will feel terrible. If you do decide you want to donate, maybe it is best to wait until you recieve the wheels, after the entire transaction, to see if you like them and were pleased. In the end it is really up to you guys if you want to donate or not and when to donate. I will accept donations, just thought you all should know where am coming from. In any case I am EXTREMELY appreciative of any donations and just the simple fact that you all actually wanted to go in on this group buy, because "Hey" I am getting some killer wheels too! For that I am thankful enough. Thanks for jumping in on this group buy guys! I will make sure to stay on top of the rep. Additions list will be sent to him on Monday for those of you who asked to be added.

It is sent!

I would buy the parts to DIY if it is that hard. Then if I didn't know how to weld it that well (which i don't), I'd take it to a reputable exhaust shop. In either case your going to need custom exhaut work to route that sucker back down if you go for those up high manifolds. Might as well get it done with.

Yep, that was it, got it fixed a couple days back. So simple in retrospect.

I thought older (like late 80's early 90's) Toyota pickups had them, but I am not so sure anymore. In either case you would have to figure out how to get the rack to accept the input from the other side, maybe a turned around RHD rack works...

Not sure how to solve your issue if you already tried U-Joints. BUT, I do know that certain toyota trucks and other vehicles have reverse steering boxes. Might be what you need... basically it is a gear unit that takes the input shaft and sends it down and back at say 30 or 45 degrees.

Hmm interesting, I'll look into it!

I cannot since that wheel has been junked a while ago. Basically the difference in the -13 9" and the -19 9.5" is merely on how far the wheel would protrude outwards, towards the fender. Essentially the backspacing is the same at 4.5", but the front spacing on the -13 provides an extra .5" of clearance. This might be nice where the tire mock up showed possible interference at the lower valance. If someone with Watanabes in 16x9 -13 up front could show a picture of their lower valance clearance, that would be very helpful in determining the ideal size. In any case, this is a group buy, so the idea is going to be to make everyone happy. As of right now the 17x9.5" -19 is still a go on all four corners. The price is still $750 shipped, or $700 pick up for those who live around the Bay Area. The time from ordering to your door is 3-4 months (I checked with the rep. today).

The issue with the 8.5" fronts with 9.5" rears is simply that for Rota to bother making the 9.5" setup in the specification we request, they need to sell 100 wheels right off the bat to justify even bothering to make the mold. If we all went with 8.5" front and 9.5" rear we would need something like 50 group buyers. Now that IS possible if that is what people want to do, but I am not sure it is/I am not sure we have those kind of numbers. We could just copy Watanabe's offset/specs for the front. If we would be doing 50 anyway, that is enough to have a custom front offset too... At the same time, we are so close now that I think it makes more sense to simply buy the 9.5" all around and then if there is enough interest someone (or I) can organize a wheel exchange for those who would like smaller fronts. I will call Kim at Rota today and ask if this can be done in a 17x9 -13 easily with less than 50 people, and so on. Then of course I will ask you all what you think. Group buy proceeds as normal. EDIT: The rep is going to inquire with the factory about the possibility of doing 17x9" -13 front and 17x9.5" -19 rear. Any information about this will be posted here. Initially he said it would take 50 sets, but it doesn't hurt to ask, they might be more flexible. WOULD YOU ALL BE MORE INTERESTED IN THIS OPTION (17x9" -13 Front and 17x9.5" -19 Rear)??? POLL IT UP TOP

http://www.rotawheel.com/rb1.htm

That is a good question I would assume the company would bill when they ship, but honestly I do not know. All financial dealings will be from you (the client) direct with the main Rota supplier for North America. I have just emailed Kim Bong (kimcosmic@juno.com, supplier) your inquiery, I will post the answer when I recieve it.

Stock 240z, had a loud throw out/clutch release bearing, spent 5 hours changing it yesterday, today I finally start it up, its no good. The car doesn't move with the clutch out in gear. No weird noises. Jack the car up in the rear, prop shaft turns no matter what the gear. Clutch slave is depressing the fork, any gear is selectable with engine running clutch in or out. I can't figure this one out for the life of me. The engine and trans are bolted flush, there was a clutch in before, so I assume the disk can't fall down, can it? I just lined them up and it went straight in the first try. The only possible thing I could think of is that somehow the clutch fork isn't contacting the throw out, but is that possible? EDIT: By the way I am using a 1981 5-speed 280zx NA sleeve, but a 240z throw out. Not from a 2+2 though. They looked the same when I installed it. Incase that might matter.

Figured it out! Thanks so much guys. Basically atab sheared off the wire to the harness. Apparently there is no fusable link or anything, it was wired direct to the harness, skinny wire at that. What size link should I install 50 amp? 100amp? Just something that will go when the full 800 or whatever amps of the battery shorts, correct? Now I got to figure out the headlights and the tach. Anyone know why the headlamps might not work despite the rest of the lights all coming on? It isn't the bulbs or the fuses. :/

I dont have those two orange wires, just the thick red. Those two orange wires just make their way back to the positive terminal on the battery like the thick red one? Also I don't (at the moment) have any additional wires besides starter coming off the positive of the battery. I need to check tomorrow in the day light, but that could be an issue.

Ahh thanks for the info guys on the "spade connection" I was wondering what that was. I will hook it back up, regarless there was no lights or anything else working. About the fuses, the box in the car has all the fuses completely fine... where are these other fuses (for starter and alt) you are talking about? Would that effect the rest of the electrical system, nothing works, no lights, nothing. Does a fried solenoid mean no electricity anywhere?

Well basically I picked up new 240z the other day. It ran fine but had a brake issue and a throw out bearing that was shot. After working for 4-5 hours fixing the two issues we bolted the whole thing back together. Now there is no power at all. During the process we had to take off the starter which has a big red positive cable to the battery attached, and the negative cable from the battery made it's way onto the floor. Well I forgot how the negative went back together so I bolted the negative from the battery back to the bolt that holds the starter to the bell housing to the engine, was this inccorect? I think it is right. In any case, there is no power... it is important to note though for about 1 second the negative touched the positive on the starter solenoid . Some sparks flew, but I tested the battery is still good according to the multimeter. So what happened??? Is the starter fried? If it is does that mean no power anywhere else? Am I missing a connection? The starter pretty much got unplugged from the whole car and it seems there was a connection that might belong to the solenoid, but connecting it did nothing to fix the problem. This is awfully frustrating. Thanks!

I highly doubt the previa uses a dry sump system, but I'll check it out next time.

Good points guys. I was just hoping that there might be certain cars to look out for that I might score a cheap pump and components off of.

Such as old 911's or 944's? Maybe the 928?

Does anyone know of a source of dry sump pumps and equipment that can be harvested from cars in the junkyard?

I chose SBF for: 1. The weight, it is lighter than an SBC. 2. My brother had an SBF lying around, although either is cheap enough that it wouldn't make a real difference. 3. I don't anticipate ever needing more than 450-500hp, in which case I would most likely switch engines entirely any way. Just a thought. I like both, so its no biggie either way.