rudypoochris

At that position the summit (rebadged patriot) ford block hugger headers would probably fit no problem as well. Although those look easier to fit in regards to collector placement. The real issue with the steering shaft comes when you slam the engine way back and down.

I feel much safer with the 9's up front too, but the group buy is still for 9.5" all around until Kim can sort all this out for us. 9" Fronts should definately be in the cards though from what I hear.

Just gave him a call. The deal is that the mold should be made by the end of this month, production to start sometime in January, available in most likely around February/March. They are trying for a 17x9 front mold as well but for those who want that it may be around an additional month. There might be some slight hiccups though as when I called he seemed to have thought the offset was positive 19 and positive 13. I have been explicit in all of my emails that it is a minus offset, even mentioning it in words once or twice. So that might need to be cleared up, but it shouldn't be too big of a deal in the big scope. Does that help with the update. After this offset thing gets cleared up I will ask you guys to contact Kim IF you want a 17x9 -13 for the front, which would most likely be more practical in my opinion and would undoubtedly be easier to fit.

Oh, okay. Got it. So the custom cam would be whatever normal SBF cam you wanted, then tell them to switch the intake and exhaust lobes? Is that true for every port?

Why do you need to run a custom cam out of curiosity?

I will see my brother over christmas break. He has the software to do this kind of stuff. If he lends me a copy or shows me a student version and how to use it, I can probably run some basic wings and such (not really 240z specific, but it might help out to find out what works and what doesn't). No promises.

Well actually the LS1 and the LS6 dry weight is 457.6lbs (auto config) and 497.2lbs (manual config). Courtesy of GM: http://www.vorshlag.com/documents/LS1_weight.jpg?osCsid=4614a3522dcb91519bd3faa6832f900b

They may or may not be. As best I understand the company needs to make a mold first then find space on the production line. I think they are coming from the Phillipeans as well, hence why it takes some time.

^ Agree with fender venting tests big time. Alternatively I would like to see some different hood vent styles if possible. In any case, my brother has Light Wave or somethinging similar that has CFD built into it. The issue is not so much getting the program but more drawing the correct shape of a 240z. That would be very time consuming. Since the data indicates that very minute changes result in big differences in numbers. Accuracy would have to be quite high. It would be much easier though to try different wing designs, angles, and vortex generators independant of the car or with just a basic profile.

I do not know what the S130 requires. Depending on how wide the wheel well is, the wheel will probably stick out the sides, maybe not. The wheel might clear the stock suspension, once again I don't know. Might try and search on the forums or just go out and measure to see if you have the clearances below at a radius of 17/2". The 17x9.5" -19 should give approximately: Back Spacing: 4.5" Front Spacing: 6.0" That is with .5" added to each side for lips.

Thats amazing, surprised no one thought of this sooner. It is good for people with old Fox's who can't afford an LS complete, but the custom grind is a pain I bet.

Thanks for the replies guys! This was very informative.

Are you refering to "Azcarbum"? If so I will try and contact him.

I have searched for the source/part number for the replacement stub axle nut. The original was peened on to keep it from back out. I have read that a 280zx replacement nut should work just fine. I have seen two part numbers being thrown around: 43262-W1202 43262-W1200 The first I was unable to find, but the second is on courtestparts.com but it is listed as the 280zx turbo & 2+2 82-83 nut only. Is there a difference between the normal 79-83 N/A nut and this 280zx turbo nut? Is it nyloc or does it have some other means of keeping from backing out? Where have you guys purchased your replacement nuts from? Thanks! EDIT: Alternatively zcarparts.com lists its part number: 23-4572 As a 70-81 replacement lock nut...

Needed adjusting. It needs to be adjusted even more though as I detect slip in 4th gear under full load. I assume the bearing is seated.

I would love to see a Gnose given the duck tape treatment or whatever the sealing setup was with the MSA Type 3 that yeilded such great results. Any information about the Gnose actually interests me much more this round since I now have one, and since they have become much more avilable in the 'group buy' section.

I don't know about the second and the third pieces, but the first just looks like standard late 60's motor mounts. I am using them in my 240z. The only difference appears to be that those cost $55 each and at Kragen they are under $6 each. Sounds like a raw deal. I would advise search for "Alsil" who designed a cross member that uses those or similar mounts for the 240z. It seems most of us use that setup. Also it seems most use the JTR transmission cross member for a Chevy V8 and then simply drill another hole for it all to line up.

Interesting. How do the headbolt holes line up? Also... the pushrod guides and rocker arms are placed the same?

Have you thought about running the Alsil mount? Honestly that setup doesn't look very strong. I would bet the rails if not the welds next.

Yikes! I am glad you are all right! What is the purpose of the steering lock any way? Theft deterent?

Yes, the +20 is less than ideal. On a 240sx, it is probably fine. Not on a 240z though for a 7.5" wide rim. I think around 4.5" of BS is what most aim for. I know that is what the Watanabes are set up at, that offset may only work with coilovers though.

That 2+2 260z MAY have a 3.36:1 R200 differential in it which is worth some change BTW.

Pretty sure things on heavier cars break easier since there is: 1. More traction 2. Less loss of power through inertia (due to slower acceleration), but that doesn't really matter when dropping the clutch. F=MA simply proves that acceleration will be less with a greater mass. Less acceleration does mean less loss of force through inertia in the drivetrain, but as stated earlier, not significant if your talking about breakage right when you drop the clutch. Breakage after the clutch drop though would be higher.

A 17x9" -13 provides essentially the same back spacing as a 17x9.5" -19 as does a 15x8" 0. They all are the same. The difference will be in whether or not the lips are exactly 1/2" each side.

Well this thread is 7.5" +20.