rudypoochris

I would BAZT but I don't have the rest of the body to go with it. :/

Looks like it needs work. If he were willing to part with the nose I would fix it up. I am in the process of repairing cracks in my Gnose right now. There are plenty of places that need reinforment, like all the broken bolt holes. Its a chore, I might contact him and see if he will ship it to CA, hmm.

Sorry to dig up old posts, but I am trying to remove the pinion from an R200 now and was wondering a couple of things. I am limited to normal tools (breaker basically, bolts, maybe some steel). That being said: 1. Would using a torch and penetrating oil help alot? If so I would be heating the nut, correct? 2. Does standing on two 2 foot bars generate enough force to break the pinion bolt free? 3. If not, what kind of shops would have the tools to remove a pinion with out damaging anything? Im trying to free some 4.375's I just got from a longnose R200 LSD. Thanks!

That engine sounds like it is worth some money! What is the RB's peak horsepower RPM? If that V8 was making 630 at 7,000, is the RB at 8,000? 9,000? 10.2 in a 3200lb car is pretty quick.

Im curious about that old V8. What kind of power and torque was it putting out? I take it you didn't build it? Or did you?

Thats great Terry. I have been around for a while and really like what you do as far as Fords go. Keep it up.

I was under the impression that the Cobra motors (if we are talking 03/04) were DOHC = 16 intake ports. The SOHC motors were 8 intake ports, yeah... The 05+ Mustang SOHC is a 3-valve though. I think maybe he meant the Mark VIII. Not the continental. I believe the Mark VIII is RWD.

Hey, Blue Oval. I have never heardof a 383 Ford. Can you fill me in? Is that a 351W block or an early model ford 289 or 302 block? The 2.75" stroke is interesting, did you mean 3.75"? That would make more sense to me. A 4.030" Bore with 3.75" stroke should make 383 cubes. That sounds beastly. All in all how much did the components cost? Does the late model HO block withstand that kind of punishment or are you stuck with the earlier models?

Bojo, any pictures of your 4.6L DOHC in place? Any pictures of clearances? What are you going to do about the steering shaft? I already relocated mine for a 5.0, not sure what a 4.6L DOHC would look like, may be better or worse.

The back of my American Racign wheels looked different before I sold them. Mine were 15x8 deep dish also. So I wouldn't go by the back.

So the sole benefit to having the diff mounted forward would be to increase the ease of turning the vehicle? In our case would there be a second benefit in that the shafts would not bottom out -> increased strength? Thanks for explaining the term, I just couldn't figure out the P in PMOI.

Just out of curiosity, what is the PMOI? Something moment of inertia? Permenant? How does moving the diff a little forward help? Does it reduce the chance of part faliure but increase the vibrations? It does not seem 240z specific (hence the mention of the Porsche) so it must not only be a way to help bottoming of the axles. Any insight appreciate.

Just food for though, the monster miata uses the Thunderbird IRS.

The 16x9.5 watanabes use a -19 offset. For our 17x9.5's, that is what I recommend after having made a mock up wheel, fitted it, and measured. I understand your worries though. There is no way to know until it is on. In any case, 4.5" backspacing (same as the wats) should clear a stock setup... earlier I asked for the stock perch OD (I have coil overs) if you have that dimension I will confirm it for you. I know alot of people like to throw out numbers and imagine what it might be like based off of wheels that fit in approximately the same size. This is no good. As I posted earlier... the suggest 16x8 +12 which was supposed to be a safe size that would "same some grief" doesn't actually fit. I know because I OWN a set of 16x8 +10 and they already rub with a 245/50/16 tire. A +12 is only going to rub more. The proposed wheels ARE going to require flares and possible snipping of the lower valance (shouldn't be an issue if your going air dam). Yes the offset will be greatly negative as well. This is not necessarily a wheel for the masses, but it is a great wheel that should provide killer looks and the ability to fit tires that other people just can't. I appreciate your size recommendations and information though. It is very helpful. After building a mock up and testing sizes I basically determined that the watanabe -19 is the way to go. Using a 17" rim we would have slightly more clearance as well since the struts point inwards. Just a thought.

Gollumn was able to pull a 280zx master from the JY. The bore was in much better shape and I will use that one. I guess they aren't all pitted. It does have some brown stains from brake fluid though.

I usually sell them for around $650-700 pre-shipping on Ebay. Obviously I don't get that much in my wallet as there are fees and overheads all that. You can find them a bit cheaper though.

I have been searching everywhere to find a brake booster rebuild kit for a 72' 240z. I can't find them. I only find rebuild complete boosters for around $110+Core. Anyone know where to look? Thanks.

$2000 is ALOT to put into an R200... I don't know how I would do that short of buying a really rare ratio. Ask him what was done to hit $2k. If it is a 3.36 or over 4.38 with a quaife then $3600 complete wouldn't be as bad. I still probably wouldn't bite.

Whats the wieght and the width (official width, inside clear, NOT edge to edge)? Includes tires?

Hmm, thats got me thinking. You bought that MC for your Z? I might look into Z32 or Z31 masters, the 17/16 units.

Hmm maybe it is worth it then. GTR's are AWD though. WRX's use R160s... I am interested in seeing what bullet proof really means. We thought the Billet stubs were bullet proof (atleast I did) but they have been busted.

Just checked myself. I don't believe they are alluminum. I must have been confuzed with the front hubs. They are 4340 billet steel I do believe (thanks fastzcars). In either case, still wondering the same thing. Is the 300zx stuff stronger? If it isn't then that might significantly reduce the appeal of such a kit.