rudypoochris

I love boar sausage personally. They make good stew as well. Oh and... ragu.

Mine goes 14-15" back measured from the bottom front opening. From the bumper lip it would be 20" back. It is a 2 piece. The seller said it came from Japan. I can't see the lower piece extending mcuh farther rearward. If there is more room I will glass it back.

Well... this is very Z related at all. You might find better luck with that question on the Mustang forums? Honestly it comes down to what you can afford and how much power you ultimately want. A 5.0 HO is only good for about 500hp before it splits in two from what I hear. It would be cheaper to make power from though. An 04 SVT Cobra engine would run you alot of $$$ as the terminator is extremely desireable. Search on the mustang forums for the specs... There is no 2004 Cobra R. It was 93, 95, and 2000. The 2000 model had a 5.4L V8 with 385hp N/A. Only 300 were made. Try the mustang forums...

Im going to repair my gnose and then I will go from there mold wise. It looks like alot of work. I would need considerable space that I don't currently have in college. But it is lucrative. Would have to think on it.

Welcome to the forum! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103836 Check out the link above. Especially the Misc and Chassis FAQ's. Might search also. There are a bunch of threads for what to look out for when buying a first gen Z (aka. S30, thats the chassis code for 70-78)

Mine goes all the way back. Has that rectangular cut out right before the radiator lower support.

Custom steering was a bit of a pain... It can work out nicely though. I have the P/N for the U-Joint which is about $40 IIRC then you need a spherical rod end, also $20 that is anodized AL on mcmaster.com. Then you cut the stock shaft in half, reweld, stick an oil impregnated bearing on it and mount the rod end onto a custom braket that all bolts onto the Alsil mount plate. It sounds harder than it is. In either case you probably won't need to relocate the steering. "JustJim" is using the same headers as me and has his pretty low and back, but did not need to relocate. I chose the 240z for the light weight and emissions exemption. Most of the racecars out there seem to be 240z's. They can be made adequately stiff. Alot of people do little to no frame modifications when dropping in a V8. Subframe connectors are available from Bad Dog Parts if you like. I don't think the flexing is THAT bad. Won't be like a noodle any way. You will need the ECU and such if you want to retain the stock EFI. Alot of people on this board use Megasquirt EFI which is completely tunable DIY EFI. You build it and program it. There is a seperate forum on this board about all that. Personally I am going with a Holley 600CFM Mech DP so I avoided all that... for now... The Ford EFI just seemed very heavy and I didn't feel like spending time figuring it out. 351 Windsor physically is the same outside as a 302 except it has a raised deck. It should fit in there fine, IIRC there are a couple people who have them here. The 351w is also slightly heavier due to that raised deck and stronger bottom end. Hope that helps. There is alot of stuff! I would go for an LSD though, for your build. You can pick up R200 open differentials very easily. There is something called the "Power Brute" which is a clutch type LSD available for $450 from "Reider Racing" it is in the group buy section... check it out. Note you will only be buying the carrier though... you would have to have someone, or yourself, install it into an open R200. It is a quality unit though, superior to the stock ones that came in late model Z31 T's. In the member rides section search "RudypooChris" there are a bunch of part numbers there and such. Right now the HybridZ photo album service is down though. Check back when photos work.

Assuming the engine is a 5.0L HO it will fit very well. There is plenty of room. You might have to do a custom steering setup if you want it maximum back and down, but if you are willing to give up a half inch or so it can fit fine with out relocation. Take your budget and multiply it by 1.5 to 2. Really depends on what you consider the swap to be. Will you be touching the brakes and suspension? If not are you going EFI/Carb, that sort of stuff. You will need an R200 differential ($70-150... more for LSD), fuel, electrical, Alsil's mount ($150-$200), custom driveshaft (maybe take an R200 shaft and have a shop weld it to a Ford shaft), JTR trans mount ($70??? can't remember), clutch setup ($200), etc. It could be done on the cheap, but usually these things don't turn out so. Also you will start to notice your willpower being tested. There is a big difference between needing and wanting something. You might find yourself "needing" alot of things. Rear end. An R200 (search for it) is a common, easy, cheap swap. These are old cars too if you plan on acctually driving it you might want to spruce up the suspension, brakes, etc. Most people agree the brakes are plenty sufficent for a street car. The suspension may need new bushings and springs/struts depending on condition of the vehicle. "Alsil" makes a cross member that allows the 5.0L engine to be mounted using later 60's mustang motor mounts. It is pretty straight forward and relatively cheap. It isn't a "kit" though. Certainly. 70-78. 240z - 280z. You can do any other year, but it would be more difficult as few people have done them. Also smog exemption is nice for pre 76'ers in CA. I got mine on Ebay. CHECK FOR RUST! 240z is the lightest at soemwhere around 2300lbs. IIRC the 260z is around 2400-2600lb. The 280z is around 2700-2800lb even though the two cars look almost identical. The added weight comes from bumpers, longer frame rails (incleeased regidity), and a bunch of other crash safety stuff. Search. All of this is on the forum if you search. I just want to see you do it personally. IMHO I wouldn't take a 5.0 from such a nice car. All you need is the motor and trans for the swap, you can get that for cheap elsewhere. No sense in dismantling a 95 Cobra. It is up to you though. If you do plan on doing this I can give you P/N for alot of things. Also buy the Datsun Chevy swap manual from "Jaguars that run". Much of the Chevy stuff applies to the Ford. It talks about rpetty much everything basic that you need to know, and it goes into detail on other things. Very good book. TIP: Buy a more expensive car that has the suspension, brakes, non rusted panels, stuff like that done. It will save you alot of headache later, unless you are planning on doing a complete build yourself.

Good point. I was only comparing the Gnose to the mule #1. Compared to #19 it seems to have worse drag and lift. Maybe the #19 car was running skinnier tires and such.

Thanks for being on top of it superdan!

In that case what about a funds pot. It doesn't need to be perfect, but some kind of "progress" bar so we can all see if bankrupsy is chasing us could be a good way to inspire donations.

It might, but if it did, you would have 29 splines instead of whatever later short nose diffs came with. Just pointing that out.

29!?!?!?!?!?!?? What the hell! How many ftlbs does that rifle have at the muzzle? My Mauser is only 8.8lbs with a 30" barrel. It doesn't kick hard either which makes me happy. 30-30 hits much harder since it is light.

Just an idea... What about something like a 'progress bar'? Or a pot. That way we can see how Hybridz.org is doing with money. Might be an incentive to donate when it gets too low or something similar. Also... Just noticed: 440 (101 members and 339 guests) Maybe make Ads only visible to the guests?

Thanks for the tip! I was firing non-corrosive Hornady. Now I am firing non-corosive Privi Part. Do you hunt aux?

I am using: 655-1465 From Jegs. It is the March serpentine adjustable alternator bracket. It allows me to run the stock reverse rotation pump from the later model 5.0L motors. I only have crank, alternator, and water pump running. The belt goes from the crank to the alternator back to the crank. The backside fo the belt rotates the water pump. Hope that helps. Goodyear makes a belt around 40" that works. Forget the P/N, just measure with string and then use goodyears online part number system to figure it out:

NICE! Good Job!

Interesting. I wonder how high NASCAR engines rev. Granted they are on 98 octane at 12.5:1... but they do make up to 150hp/liter. That would indicate revs of atleast 9,000... I would think any way.

Does the AR-15 have the penetrating power to take something like that out from a decent range? Just wondering how much you really need. Or is it the shear quantity of bullets that will kill the animal. I know the 30-06 throws out 2800ish ftlbs at the barrel, 2600ftlbs for this Mauser i have, I think the AR-15 throws down something like 1200ftlbs or 1100. I wonder how much it acctually matters on something like this.

8 Brute force or finesse?

I made this based off of some available equations. Obviously there are alot of other variables, but I thought this was a good base. It is in 97-2003 Excel. Using a 2350lb car with 467.5hp at the wheels a 9.98 should be possible according to this calculator. Thats about 550hp at the crank for a manual, 585 ish for auto. It is just an approximation, I don't know how accurate it is. It is really hard to say since some dynos record high or low, suspension, power curve, and driver etc. It becomes much too hairy for something like this to calculate. Perf calc.zip

You probably could... I don't think you would want to. I was under the impression that the crank ideally should not have the firing order travel down or up the engine block. This twisting of the crank is not good. Might be able to retain a satisfactory firing order with a 180 degree crank, but it might run rough even after it is all figured out. I would be interested if someone who knows alot of this stuff could chime in.

Thats my baby. Took her out to the range for the first time ever today. Below is my results for shots 5-9 on her at 100 yards, 1" grid spacing: I did "alright". I think I can do much better if I get my breathing and trigger action down. The two that are way off are due to me forgetting to two step the trigger. I pulled it in one swoop. Silly me.

Thanks for the tip! The bore was pitted and black as hell. Looked like a horrible chimney. The gun store sales man felt bad and gave me a bunch of bore gel and what not. Told me to clean it for about 3 days and see how it comes. Well we (my roomates and I) finished it in less than a day. Took the entire gun apart as well. I went back and he told me my Mauser was a crap load nicer then his now. The bore has no pits, shines, and has very strong rifling. I am really happy about the purchase. The stock is in excellent condition as well. I shall post pictures later. On the ammo... "Privi" from Serbia sells it on aimsurplus.com for $9.50 they say it shoots as well as Winchester or Remington. I am only 19 though so I can't buy the ammo online. I am stuck buying $26.95 ammo. It isn't so bad though because the $27 ammo I can buy is 150gr so it shoots 2800fps which is nice, the 180gr shoots 2400fps. I am going to take it down to the 1000 yard range sometime this next week. Well... start on the 100-200 then see if it can make it past 500-1000. A guy at the store told me someone won last weeks 1000 yard shooting comp with an 1891 Argentine, so I am stoked.

Ya, I thought it was a pitty too.