goodoldjam

Plenty of people have CF parts painted and plenty of people leave fiberglass unpainted for a long time. I'll tell you if it's something like a air dam I wouldn't even bother painting it until it was so out of shape it needed repairs. Even then I would use some cheap rattle can. See I wonder why people paint a piece like that, when in a couple years it may have the complexion of Edward James Olmos. That may have a bit to do with location, in the Winter months the roads here are covered in pea gravel.

Switch the limiter to sparkcut and that instantly makes it look like it has 800hp. Nothing better than the limiter sounding like a machine gun and blowing out 2 foot flames. Seems to add alot to the burnout videos. I had to try it myself and stopped right away because car alarms were going off (plus there was no point in doing it).

Drivers ED and you'll save some. Definitely better if it's slow until he can pay the insurance himself, when he can easily add another grand to that. It always boggles my mind when parents give their kids something that is quick, considering the first car may also be the first wrecked car. Like my dad told me you wreck it and your walking. I stayed on his insurance for along time and payed it myself, because the price break I got saved me so much.

I personally wouldn't have a problem doing that. Just as long as I could manage a smooth surface. I would sand the dents clean and fill and spot prime, Then sand the primer. You could use spot putty over the smallest of dings on top of the paint but that is really for pin holes. I'm really against talcum based fillers "Bondo", if that gets exposed to humidity it soaks it up. So a small chip will ruin the bodywork under it and poor body work will start to bubble. I would recommend a fiberglass filler, reason shops use bondo is because it's cheap and easier to work.

Man I may have to look at my funds for this one. 72 auto $500 looks pretty sweet for that price. Longview WA http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/1961603554.html Dang I just can't do it though, I've spent too much on my not so straight car.

Hope I didn't make it sound like it was just visible smoke. You have to pass sniffer for everything you normally do but the test seems to be much easier after the dyno went away. Had a car that failed HC at idle and Passed the HC test at 2500rpm but that was still considered passing. Probably easier than most places besides the other cities that still use the 20year rule or the people outside the city who don't have to test.

The manual boost controller turned off will put you at stock boost and no lower. S130 is telling you that you have to be driving the car to build boost. I would be very careful with what your doing, if your not sure then I think you need someone to help you. You could have a very bad day if you overboost. Rereading this, did your idle go up when you installed it? I don't see any problem with you having shop install it, obviously your learning a bit. It's not something you want to mess up on. If you still have the emergency pop off and it hasn't been tampered with, you have some sort of fail safe you wont exceed 10psi.

There seems to be some talk about NA ECUs under the Nistune Q/A here http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/81216-nistune-questions-get-them-answered-here/ Maybe some helpful info On the Z31 ecu install sticky also.

Or do like Hoov said and look into nistune with the Z31 ECU. I've been seeing quite a few shops around me that will tune it now. Megasquirt is usually not on the list of what shops will tune. I can kinda understand that since there can be alot of install error involved.

$700 73 non runner, branded title. Hey it looks like a good parts car at the very least. Looks fairly solid on the outside at least. Sounds like the engine could be running. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/1958374180.html

Are you considering a standalone? I think that is something that would be worth an investment. If your willing to deal with the install. I have to say a standalone comparison wouldn't be very accurate, I would say that megasquirt alone is quite a improvement over stock. I tried to piece my setup and get a feel for the improvements. Starting with megasquirt and that was a real improvement, just as true with any standalone I would imagine. Second thing I did was add a intercooler leaving the boost stock, it didn't add that much noticeable power. I can attest that it did lower intake temps alot. To get gains you need to have some supporting mods. I have yet to find one thing that I would have done by itself and stopped, unless all I wanted was to up the boost.

The question that needs to be asked is, what are you expecting to get out of this setup for the price. Cooling the charge isn't going to add any sort of efficiency to the turbo. Though the cooling effect may or may not extend it's life. Your already falling off the stock turbos compressor map at 10psi. The turbo is great for low end but it falls flat on it's face towards the top. I would recommend searching around and looking at Non intercooled cars that run methanol, to get an idea of what you may gain. I'm not going to guess what you may gain but I have a feeling that you will be disappointed. I'm not saying it's not worth it but if that's the only thing you plan on doing. I just don't see you adding much.

They look for visible smoke, they don't even use a dyno to test anymore. Something about awd cars jumping off. They test at idle and then hold it at a certain rpm. I haven't heard of to many cars failing, unless you have visible smoke. I think they still inspect the exhaust system for holes and for a what looks like a cat at least. If your converter is bad it's not that expensive to replace. I do believe like Mongo said it's free the first test but not if you fail the next, something like that. You'll need to bring the car to DMV to get a Vin inspection or maybe they can do it at DEQ. I go to the one on 33rd off Columbia, so I can't for sure say that none of them use a dyno.

Well If you go with a HVAC panel first I would probably be down for one, if they are a reasonable price. You probably have already seen the CAD files, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/87446-brad-ds-laser-cut-hvac-and-gauge-panel/. I wouldn't want the HVAC slots though.

Pawnshops guys, I know my local shop has a better selection of tools than most stores it just takes some digging. Snap-on and Macs are still priced a little high but craftsman is dirt cheap.

It's definitely the best way to go. Where is this rust at, be warned that minor rust may turn out to be a much larger job. Sometimes you'll find old bodywork and sometimes it's far more rusted out. Just be ready for it to turn into a major job. Rust-oleum has a rust stripper I have been using, it seems like some good stuff (you know it's good if it causes chemical burns). It takes it off with not much effort, problem is it flash rusts like nothing else I've seen (good for small spots). I do like the por-15 metal preps. Also if you have a pressure washer that may speed up paint removal, sometimes you can practically peel it off if it's bad. Chemical strippers are not as good as they used to be, generally if it say aircraft stripper that's what you want. I've noticed some turn the paint to a gooey slime and some lift the paint away.

Yeah the whole point was torque, it probably drives the same as a small skid steer. You need to be gentle with the controls. Which if anyone has driven one going 10mph down the road, they would know that feels fairly quick. If you let go of the controls it basically locks up and feels like your going to flip. Same if you throw the controls forward your front wheels come off the ground. The important spec is max pump speed, If he never exceeds that he won't go any faster. This is more a piece of machinery, get in and throttle up and leave it there. I think his choice to go to a V8 was more of a cool factor than anything else, it may bog a little less under load. It's like putting a V8 into any small hydrostatic machine, it's not going to add much. Though there are hydrostatic street sweepers with variable pumps and wheel motors that can reach highway speeds. I've been told that if you let off the treadle to fast on the highway it will about throw you out the windshield. Difference between Tony's example was the fact that it had a actual transmission and was driving a separate pump. It was a mudbog and this is a crawler, though I totally agree that the L28 was more than enough.

Reading through the build it didn't sound like he was switching because the L28 wasn't enough to go fast. Sounded like he wanted to be able to operate it at lower rpms and have that sound. Actually from the specs sounds he gutted a forklift. Top speed is apparently 22mph as stated on fourwheeler link and weighs 4300lbs with the L28. From the specs it doesn't sound like it's going to go much faster and why would he be focused on going faster. Top speed 22 MPH Pumps Displacement 2.81 CI/REV Pump Max REV 4000 RPM Pump Max PSI 5000 Planetary Ratio 30:1 Rated @ 50,000 Inch/LBS Drive Motor Displacement 2.48 CI/REV Drive Motor Torque 156 FT/LBS Planet Torque 4687 FT/LBS Drive Motor Speed 4532 RPM Planet Speed 151 RPM Tread Speed 22 Draw Bar Pull 4686 LBS Where did it say it only goes 14mph. "It is destroying my backyard and scarring the animals. I have been testing it and getting it set up and learning how to drive it. I will post up changes I have made, but for the most part it needs to be rev'ed up and ease the joysticks like a aircraft. It will jump and stop like a bull if you get crazy with the controls. It has no cooling issues so far. The torque and speed are about dead on with the design specs. Videos once I learn how to drive it and hit a trail. It is big, loud, and fun." I don't know why you would need to go faster than 22mph, imagine what happens when he lets off the controls going that fast.

Here's what can happen when you respray the Mineral mix 2 days later. This is a spot where it had pooled up a bit and really it probably will never fully cure. Here is a close shot of the 50/50 acetone mix. I tried to get sunlight on it, but the color makes it tough to take a picture of orange peel. This was done yesterday and it feels fully cured and probably just about sandable. This jam was finished with rattle can, because the MS mix wouldn't cover. Out of a can doesn't leave a bad finish, I went this route because I wanted to get it done without pulling out the gun. Basically I'm almost done with the jamming, minus a couple spots where it wrinkled. With the acetone mix I don't think I'll be seeing this issue anymore. I think the thinner that is in the can is Toluene, maybe another good option.

Your post is very helpful. I made the switch to acetone, mixing a 50/50 mix because the HF gun has trouble spraying thicker. Mostly I did a 50/50 mix out of fear and will probably reduce it a bit more because it is looking like it is going to leave some nasty orange peel but only on things I actually care about people seeing. It covers well and I'm not seeing the the runs. Mineral spirits were a flat out mistake and not just because of runs, that stuff takes forever to cure. Combine that with it pooling and it is a huge headache, especially if you want to move along in less than a week. Anyway it's looking promising and Tomorrow I will get some pictures of what happens when you spray over the mineral spirit mix a couple days later. I also have the cowl piece sprayed with the acetone 50/50 mix, which I'm expecting to have probably sand smooth and respray with a thinner mix. Basically it's my test piece and I should be able to come up with the best mix before I go after the rest of the car. The key being minimal runs and minimal orange peel or some kind of balance but runs being the biggest evil to avoid. Meph I love the leave the bugs alone advice. I always want to figure out a way to get them out, No way in hell. That is one benefit to the Mineral spirits, it wasn't as appealing to gnats but still it's not worth using with how that stuff runs.

I guess the question is, did you install anything new? Has it always been this way? I believe the early 240z slave is a 11/16 bore and the later is 3/4. So changing to the early would increase travel but if everything is stock it shouldn't be necessary. If you just swapped in the transmission and swapped throwout collars from different years then that could be your issue. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/84365-throw-out-bearingcollar-question/page__p__799532__hl__clutch+collar+length__fromsearch__1# Otherwise something else is wrong, like bad master or slave. You should never have to adjust at the pedal, it should be at specced height and left there. Unless your trying to get a quick fix just to drive it.

Quarter panels, if i was gonna do the roof may as well do them to. Door skins and hatch skins would be cool. I'm on board with fenders also, take the weight off the front first. A CF blank to fill in the heater control panel would be cool.

You thinking about buying one of those crazy fans? I think the highest CFM that delta makes is a 252 120mm, kinda spendy at $28. That fan would be more than enough, definitely would want to have some control over that. I have the 77 Bonneville core and it is kinda defeating the purpose of weight savings. Filled with liquid it is fairly heavy. I have a 80mm 32cfm fan right next to me and that would probably be adequate flow out of each vent. Like you said it isn't really about flow. It's like turning the heater on high while it's cold, it really doesn't do much. I think I'm going to mount near the stock core location, I don't know where I would put it to go lower. So are you thinking about feeding to just 1 vent or do you split it after? Sorry for kinda HiJacking your thread xonix.

I don't think anyone has done this, even if I could rig something up it's still not cold enough to see how well it works. That was also my concern, it won't flow what the fan is rated at. Probably want to avoid going to the high flow 200cfm fans they sound like jet engines. Probably a better option would be to sandwich the core between 2 fans. My goal would be to get something that is the equivalent to a low setting coming out of the defrost vents. Definetly it would be an experiment, may not work well at all. Other option is to go bigger, like something that will fit 2 120mm fans or maybe figure a way to replace the giant squirrel cage and use the existing core. Heres a core that will hold 2 http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304440 The single fan would probably flow alot better if it had a shroud. I found a shroud made for the Chevette core http://www.dtekcustoms.com/d-tekcorefanshroudkit.aspx This is basically what were dealing with under the dash, you need a way to feed the 2 2" vents. Maybe build a manifold out of Plexiglas or something kinda like in the picture. Wonder if they make a PVC Y that would work. Maybe worthwhile to browse homedepot and see what they have in the Heating and air section.

I usually get older guys who want to reminisce about their old Z and how you steer the car with the pedal. I did have one girl who I let sit in the drivers seat and asked me if it was a race car... I should have lied. The only thing that car had in common with a race car when I first got it was the color of my knuckles while trying to keep it straight going down the freeway at 60mph. Probably would of been a bad idea to let anyone else drive it, though I did offer her because I'm such a nice guy