goodoldjam

Sounds like a plan, a lot of people would say it's unsafe to add anything involved with fuel to the cabin for obvious reasons. You are going to block it off though, so if you want to go that route then i would say go for it. I would think your after pump filter should be in the engine bay, because it's only job is to protect your injectors from particulates.

I don't see a reason why it comes on faster under WOT. Do you have a theory why it would come on faster? A huge pressure difference between where it was connected before maybe, making the gate open later.

I understand that thinking, part of the reason i vent before the intercooler because it is a restriction. We know that most wastegates begin to crack at about 50% of the spring pressure, it would make sense that it may float at less. Only question is, should you or would you have enough pressure in the system to keep it floating. If you have enough pressure to keep that valve open and your turbo is seeing that back pressure then you have a greater performance issue. My BOV will open in neutral with a quick blip, it doesn't hold much pressure. I agree that no matter how well it vents it would show some positive pressure. Definitely it could be tested, by checking at what pressure a wastegate actually closes. Then checking the pressure in the system when the BOV opens.

Well if nothing is leaking and your wastegate seems fine, then i think your left with your plugged cat. That maybe followed with overheating. Unless something is leaking during boost and you can't hear it. It's also seems strange that it happened right after the Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with 20/50 but I can't think why it would cause a issue. That mixture probably makes your oil pretty thick though.

I can open my stock gate connected, even for such a weak spring it feels pretty strong. So it opens fully at 6psi, does it open at much lower pressure? I wasn't thinking of a leak, but I was thinking a weak or broken spring. I think your theory on a plugged cat is pretty good thing to test and fairly easy. I may have a stock DP ready to go in the next week, that depends on how many studs i snap.

I myself can't see a benefit to having it at the manifold as opposed to directly before the throttle body. Your going to get a good measurement after the intercooler which would be almost exactly what the engine sees. As soon as the throttle plate closes the BOV releases the pressure then the wastegate spring should do it's job. Applying vacuum to it may close it faster but It would be with more force.

Yeah, it will be a 1/4" Male NPT fitting with a 3/8" hose barb. That's what came with the carter pump i was looking at. You may have to buy the fittings if it doesn't. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Russell-6-AN-1-4-in-NPT-pipe-to-3-8-in-tube-anodized-straight-adapter-fitting/_/N-26a0?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=1%2F4+npt+to+3%2F8&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=467151_0_0_

Basically everything seems fine and in good shape. No leaks or anything... Hmm. If i can't say it's a vacuum leak or a bad turbo. Then the only answer you will get is something is wrong with your wastegate. When you say it moves freely do you mean you grabbed hold of the arm and moved it?

I think I have the same Carter pump your looking at. It has 1/4" NPT to 3/8" barbed, feeding triple Webers. I think it's the pump your looking for given it flows enough for whatever your trying to do.

I think were getting confused with OD and ID. 1/4" NPT is .54" OD and -6 is 3/8 id hose. I have a fuel rail that is -6 and uses 1/4" NPT fittings. It confuses the hell out of me. The barbed fittings I have connect to 5/16 id hose. You can have a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" barbed fitting. http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/7368-1-4-npt-x-3-8-brass-hose-barb.html I had to look up NPT, but you can see how large a 3/8" NPT is. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread

1/4" NPT is -6 isn't it?

I was interested myself because it's good to know before i connect my external. Tial had no warning about it. So I emailed them. "I was wondering does connecting the wastegate pressure source to the manifold after the throttle plate cause damage to the diaphragm due to vacuum? Thanks" Tial Tech "It could potentially – worse off though you create a vacuum leak Jake" I didn't really consider a vacuum leak, but they are not air tight from factory.

He mentioned something about how 9psi wasn't a problem in one of the creep videos. What is looking strange to me is that in one of the videos the wastegate is hooked to the back of the manifold. I'm wondering if it's a good thing to have a wastegate go from pressure to vacuum like that. The Tial instructions say to hook up the pressure source before the throttle body. Other people have said that they've ran it off the manifold with no issues, so who knows. Here is a list of some things that could go wrong that someone posted on a Honda forum. -pinched diaphragm -diaphragm is not sitting correct on the bottom half -someone took it apart and didn't use locktite on the set screws that hold the valve in place - you hooked it up to a vacuum source (which is says not to per instructions and i have said numerous times on here) and the vacuum sucked in the diaphragm and slit it - the washers were not installed correctly (or at all) and the air fitting was screwed in too far hitting/damaging the diaphragm

My thinking maybe totally wrong. You have that dyno sheet with a 9 lb spring that shows that it was fluttering at 25psi beginning at 5k rpm. I'm assuming boost was fluctuating at this time causing the waves on the graph. If the creep was related to not enough flow, then why would a 9LB spring open and close at all. Wouldn't it be more likely to stay open? It seems as though the valve can open farther, it just needs exhaust pressure and a weak spring to do it. A damaged diaphragm could explain it, higher the boost the more it needs to open but at the same time it could be leaking more.

S130Z said that he runs the same gate setup and sees no creep at 15psi with a smaller housing. I would assume something else is wrong. Maybe it would be worth while to see what's different between your setup and others who have the gate at the same spot. Have you tried another wastegate? Could your wastegate diaphragm be leaking and not opening like it should?

Your right I'm going to need to go colder. Sat and idled and for some reason the switch isn't turning on, so I bypassed it. It's 80 degrees and the car went to 200 and the fan barely could cool it, given the intercooler is now heat soaked and almost to hot to touch. The fan was just sucking hot air over a hot radiator. I may almost need another fan for the worst case scenario.

I'm not a expert I can only tell you what I've read. 30 micron and under before the injectors and 40 micron is fine before the pump.

I have a couple trucks that are vented and I don't really notice a odor. Thing that maybe a concern is that the charcoal canister is a temporary stop for the fuel vapor and the vapors are sucked out when the engine is running. I don't know if the canister will work as a odor controller. http://www.familycar.com/classroom/emission.htm This is a good link for the function of the canister under EVAPORATIVE CONTROLS.

Throw all of it away and vent from the cap. Are you using the stock 240 tank? You know it's not baffled right, you may want to add in a surge tank or pick up a 280z tank

I settled on tapping to m16x1.5, mainly because if i want to go colder the switches are fairly cheap. Right now I'm using a switch that should turn on in the 180 range. I do have the option of dropping to a 170. I will see how it works out since it's about as hot it's going to get here, probably nothing close to what you see.

Check out this post http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/28500-75-280z-fuel-pump-trouble-quite-long/ Apparently it sounds as though the car doesn't prime. It only activates when air is flowing through the AFM. So according to that it needs to be cranked for you to check it. OR power from under the car.

We must be related or something, I've had the same setup for about 2 years. I started the car after I finished and it ran good, but work just got in the way. I'll be finishing it this time and actually I'm at the point of cleaning up the wiring myself and trying to make it look decent like you were doing. I'm actually finishing up my intercooler piping right now, 3" tubing is tough to fit.

I don't use a relay board myself. What I did get was a labeled harness, which is probably the reason I haven't cooked anything. Like every foot there is small print on the wire.

The problem with selling it is replacing it with another Garret that is Rebuilt or at least in good shape. I figure I can sell the housing and recover at least some of the cost of another. If i had no use for it then i would probably sell it for a decent deal, probably far less than it is worth. I can't do it though, it would be like chopping off my own nuts at this point. Especially since my T3 is beginning to show it's age.

Maybe it's just his wastegate placement, it certainly doesn't look flow friendly location. Probably be far more efficient on the manifold, instead of on that adapter. I know it's perfect for a rotary, but dang the right price would be tough. I would probably want close to same cold side. If it had seen some miles since it was totally rebuilt, I would probably let it go. The Turbine housing can go later though. To get a idea of that turbine size a 3" pipe goes around it.