goodoldjam

Here we go a 86 Chevette uses a core that is perfect for 120mm. Napa has the core for $27, buy a $5-$10 fan maybe with a built in speed controller. Rig it to the vents and you have a mini heater system.

I've had plenty of issues ordering over the internet. What has happened to me more than once, is alot of these stores show it in stock. The truth is they have to order it from the supplier. So 2 day shipping doesn't happen until 3 days later, it's a poor practice. Another thing that has happened to me, is the product is no longer made but still listed as in stock. A few days later they send me a email saying they can't get it and never will. Just seems to be the practice of E-stores. I usually don't have a issue with in store ordering but sometimes it flat doesn't get ordered and when I come to pick something up it isn't there.

If my Unit had been working and the heater control valve wasn't bad I would of left mine. I was thinking about buying a 80mm or 120mm core that I could fit a 12v PC fan to and routing it to the defroster vents, then just using a simple toggle switch or you could go with a variable controller. Would take up far less room and still do the job. Just check out a few watercooled PC's and you'll know exactly what I'm talking about.

Well got a couple things I learned about Rustoleum primers. Don't use the Non automotive primers, they take 48 hours to dry Difference being I believe that most their primers are oil based like the paint. The automotive primers are sandable in 4 hours. Also don't spray buildable over sealer primer before the sealer fully cures, they look like the same thing apparently they are not. Been playing with the HF gun and it needs it mixed thin or it won't spray, Mineral spirits seem to make the paint run like water. It doesn't spray like automotive paint at all, so it's time to move to something hotter like acetone. The mineral spirits do however self level well, but so does water. The Mineral spirit mix does adhere better if you have a coat already on something though.

Car looks to nice to be selling for $2750, I don't have the money anyway so I'm not going to spend anytime figuring it out. Hey you never know, The one good sign is there is a phone number on the ad. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/1936635103.html

If it was a CV joint, they can be rebuilt at a driveline shop. You could probably go through your CV's and see if any feel rough or excessively loose. What works for me more than half the time, is before I remove anything. I go through and see if I can find any excessive play just by trying to move things with my hand . Usually if something is worn I can get it to make a click and if something is really bad it has noticeable movement.

I'm on board with that, I already have the HF gun ready to go. I've been spending most my time on bodywork, It always seems easy until you start removing some paint. I'm just trying to get enough parts ready to go. I can learn as I go on the places that won't be seen, then when I get to the outside I should have a good Idea of how to do it fairly efficiently. If I do a bad job, I can correct it just adds alot of time. Kinda torn on reducing it, Mineral spirits make it slow drying. Maybe I'll pick up some acetone. I've also read that spraying the paint straight out of the can works well, if the HF gun can do that. Thanks for the write up Meph, I'm thinking it's gonna help me out alot. I'm still stuck on step Zero at the moment. Not so much bodywork but welding.

This came up for sale locally awhile back, I thought about buying it. Having a turbo where your headlight should be didn't seem practical for something I would actually want to drive. After watching the video It looks like 300whp will eventually rip the front off the car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogHfsnnt2cc

I dream about the next engine I want to use. The 1uz is almost dirt cheap and oversquare, I wouldn't mind building a 4liter v8 that could rev up to 10k. How about it gets shoved into a TE27 I would probably sway more towards a Starlet though. Fairly cheap but kinda hard to find.

I payed $400 for a complete good running 280zxt. Not a bad looking car minus the quarter damage. That was almost 5 years ago, don't think I could get a deal like that now. People used to have no love for the 280zx. Now people are trying to get 3k for rattle canned high mileage heaps. That was after I bought a POS turbo engine for $300 from a junkyard and found it was to far worn.

Plugged in his VE table and spark table, set my constants and it's drivable. It will need to be fine tuned but it gets you in the ball park. You can export VE and Spark tables, they seem to import fine to other versions. Things that don't import I copy over by hand. Edit: Oops I think I misread, I did run settings close to the injector opening times. I actually started out using Metros map and injector settings. That sticky I linked you to are the exact settings you want to run.

Injector opening times here. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/55910-injector-opening-times-spread-sheet/ I'm using cygnusx1's map it works fairly well, from the map sharing sticky.

iM ASKING FOR $6000 0BO..... THE INTERNET PRICE IS $6600 AS IT STANDS!!!! What?

It's not looking good with the roller, Tryed 50/50 and that's way to thin so then I went 25/75 and that's to thick. Even with a ultra fine roller it still gets some streaks and has a extreme amount of orange peel. Luckily I haven't done anything major yet. It may settle a little as it drys, but it's looking like alot of sanding. Maybe I'll pick up a electric HF gun, Something throw away. 72s30 How did you thin it for the gun?

Well I considered a cheap Maaco job before I started to do body work, I've seen their work and it is not even better than what I have already done. So I have a couple options, strip everything off and start fresh. That leaves X amount of bodywork and from what I've seen so far there could be alot of it. It would of been helpful to take pictures of what i did before I primed on that third picture. The gas filler hole is actually part of a 9"x18" patch. I just don't want to see how far the rabbit hole goes. I do have a gun and could spray enamel, problem is i have no where to do it. If I didn't strip it all the way down, I don't think it would even last a couple years. I'm thinking maybe rustoleum will get a couple more years. The beauty of this paint, is if I feel the need to redo a section it's cheap. Next time I take off the paint off it will be to add fiberglass quarters. I think this is a step up from going rattle can flat. I'm working on the cowl right now and I'll post some high res pictures of it, even if bugs are swimming around in it. I didn't opt for dark color, because it wouldn't hide anything like you said. Plus the car is already some form of faded yellow as seen in the pictures. I just got to point where I realized my $2000 car is not going to be a good base for a engine, I've somehow invested more money into. So when I rip the car into 2 pieces I won't cry to much because I ruined my paint job.

Well decided to go the rustoleum route. Car is a old rattle can job from PO, with alot of bad bodywork. Got a jam done and working out some more of the ID areas. Bodywork wise it hasn't been a $75 job, especially not in time. Accidentally hit enter and posted this a little soon so I'll try and get up a picture of the door jam. It's Sunburst yellow, not sure how it's going to turn out. I'm using a roller and spray cans for those hard to reach areas. So far it looks like it should come out OK for a rust bucket, much better than the faded orange peel rattle can that was on there.

I would be wary of the rust bubbles depending on where they were. I thought I could fix a couple rust bubbles and ended up replacing 50% of my quarter panel. If your seeing rust bubbles and it just happens to be on bondo then you may as well remove every bit of the filler, because it will never stop bubbling.

Mama always said craigslist was like a box a chocolates, never know what you're gonna get. I would still have bought it for $350 though, it looks clean enough. You could recover most that money just from the Fram.

Plus, someone who calls it a v6 and then says it can hold 650hp...that worries me. Also he was "unable to pull it out of the truck" for $1000, now $350 for everything. 250 just for the fram itself, I wouldn't pay that much for a filter.

Been waiting to see a video with your car in action, it's looking good and sounding good.

Well if you drive it hard , then what's the question? Drive it easy and see what you can do, I think I could drive my car around town and not see any positive pressure. If I floored it and kept it in it's power range I would hope to get 9mpg with fuel almost pouring out of my exhaust pipe.

Should just need a power source feeding to the coil, from the battery positive. The negative on the coil is how the distributor switches the coil on and off, so don't give it a constant ground. Then if you have a electric fuel pump that needs power, you'll need to deal with that to. Then cranking it should make it run. If you don't want to use a screwdriver to jump the starter solenoid you can pick up a remote starter switch for $15.

From what I've read and seen 12-15psi isn't going to get the power your after with the stock head. The problem with what you want, is you want alot of low rpm torque without sacrificing high rpm power. I'm running a T3/T4 and I'm not seeing full boost till late 3k rpm, if I was running a T4 exhaust side it would be even worse. You will need to figure out the best combo, my turbine seems to be a bit overkill. As far as swapping the head for a solid lifter head, I've come to the thinking it's not worth it until I have a cam for the new head that will actually produce power past 6000rpm. That will create even a greater loss in low end. If you want that instant lowend then keep it stock, if you want HP then go bigger. Either way you go your going to lose out on one or the other. You will have to decide what is more important, you can't be in the sweet spot during the whole rpm range. The engine will be far less sluggish once you ditch the stock electronics, it's like a wheezing old man who can't breath. That being said, Finish installing megasquirt and go from there. You'll get a far better Idea of what you want to do.

You may break halfshafts but I think it's proven that the R200 is strong enough for most people. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72292-r200-durability-can-it-handle-400hp/page__p__686923__hl__%2Br200+%2Bhorsepower__fromsearch__1#entry686923

Get some bumper stripper, I would think that would be safe for Plastic.