goodoldjam

Maybe it isn't running as good as it should. Not 1 KA I've driven felt like it had the same amount of power. I read a article in a drift magazine, basically about drifting a stock KA. Well they got the car setup suspension wise and brought in some Japanese drifters. Well the first run was total crap and the Japanese guys said right off it felt like a dog. They actually took it to a dyno and it put out something like 110whp. After getting the timing adjusted and they actually advanced it. They brought that car up to something like 140-150whp. They did have a couple cheap mods done prior. You gotta figure most 240sx's have changed hands to many times, there could be a number of things wrong. My brother has been through 3 or 4 so far. Out of those cars my brother had owned only one that felt like it had some power. Which could be a result of the mass beatings these cars more than likely had gone through. Try and squeeze out as much as you can cheaply. I do like KA24's but they are worth very little ATM, also that makes them a good budget platform.

I would test spray a piece and see. There are some pictures of how it looks, looks real nice. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54801-duplicolor-paint-shop/ You gotta figure your going to want to have a test piece anyway. I would be more worried about spraying over lacquer, maybe it goes both ways.

Wonder if he is still dealing with this 2 years later.....

Yes the air is re-cooled, consider that your intercooler does do work to cool the charge. Intercoolers do heat soak and dumping air that has already been cooled is a waste and should have at least some negative effect on intercooler temps. Your dumping cool air and now you have to re-cool, doesn't sound efficient. Probably could argue that it has little effect but..Remember placing on either side is no more work if you have the room. Edit: You make 1 to 2 psi sound like a irrelevant number. Actually I was asked a question as to why and I don't need correction. I'm not trying to push this placement down anyones throat. It is not a strange place to put a BOV. Obviously most people can decide, as did I.

The main reason, if you vent after your venting air that has already been cooled and that gets replaced with more warm air. Having to remove extra heat is always something you want to avoid. Second reason, I'm with the thinking that I'm protecting the turbo and not the throttle plate. The higher pressure is before intercooler. It's a pretty normal BOV placement it just doesn't get recommended as much as it should.

You need to put some pressure to the side of the T that is coming from the turbo. Then you want to see what comes out the side the arrow is pointing (the side the wastegate connects to). While you adjust the boost dial, if it doesn't change when you adjust it then it's bad. Just hook it up like the diagram out of the car. Minus the turbo and wastegate obviously. Pressure out <--- Pressure in

I guess a basic test would be to put a regulated amount on the Vacuum/pressure side and making adjustments with the controller. Something like 10psi and if adjusting it has no effect on the wastegate feed then it's bad. It should be reducing how much pressure the wastegate sees when you turn it up. Probably better to use a pressure gauge on the wastegate side.

Should be 10:1 with flattops. My dad's L28 is probably about that high and he never had any issues running on premium. Thicker gasket if you want to go lower.

Yep, or just coolant temp. Megasquirt is already setup for the GM sensors so no worries. You can always pull the values with easytherm and check if you did change them.

First off looks like your going to need the software package from DIY. http://www.diyautotune.com/softwarelinks.htm Ok you want to go to the Megasquirt directory after you install C:\Program Files\MegaSquirt and go to the MS1 Extra 029y4 folder. There is some update text there you should read first. Here is a Dated video of a firmware upgrade, you already have the firmware in the package from DIY in the "029y4 folder" and the downloader so the first few minutes are worthless but the install is the same. When I first did this I was upgrading from a old version of MSnS, so I made a new map by exporting my Spark/Fuel tables from my original and then importing to a new map. Then going through the constants and getting everthing set. So after the update I plugged it in and was ready to go. I'm assuming your using MS1 so if your not then you need to go to correct folder for your version. Now if your using the Nissan CHT sensor (MS1) your going to need Easytherm to adjust the resistance values, which is under the DIY package. That was kind of a pain for me to get working but I wasn't paying attention to the instructions. (Remember after the Upgrade your map is gone)

I always Re-read the steps, so I'll dig up the info. You use a loader program to load the new firmware and if you use the Nissan Coolant sensor you need to use Easytherm before hand I believe. Your running MS1 right?

That's great info, thanks. I didn't know the reasoning behind why it caused issues. This is going to help me down the road. In fact I may do a reload just to make sure also.

Probably best to log it. If it was the MAP I would think that it would be noticeable with a log. I have unhooked my MAP and made sure it was reading the correct amount for my elevation, not really a great test. So many things it could be, probably logging under cruise may show you something. If you have a vacuum gauge you could also have a friend or yourself write that down and then compare it with what the MAP was reading. I know resets seem to cause some strange issues with MS. I've read people saying reloading the firmware made a big difference after them. I've noticed this myself or it could of been just coincidence.

My mistake you said stemming from Big Phils thread, so I assumed you were actually referring to sparkcut.

Antilag isn't actually launch control or "sparkcut". Antilag is non stop between shifts and has nothing to do with limiting. It continues to ignite fuel even off throttle. Launch control is a limiter or "2 Step". Basically you cut spark at intervals and let unburnt fuel enter the manifold. It ignites and causes a load on the turbo, enough that the turbo will creative pressure. It's not good for the turbo, I would imagine it not only adds alot of heat. Also it causes basically what are shockwaves. I would imagine true antilag will destroy the turbo much faster than sparkcut. Your igniting fuel meant to drive a piston in front of a turbine.

Yeah I forgot to mention that about spark cut, it's a one time thing though. Worth trying just for the sake of trying. I have to say it's pretty cool watching boost build out of gear, while you bounce it. Really no point to unless you hardcore about your launch. I'll admit I kept it low at 3500rpm still it put out some nasty flames. Edit: thought I should add a pure spark cut video.

So you have to pick up the door also. My doors close fine, though getting the passenger side open is not possible. Today I'm getting ready to paint the car such a annoyingly bright color that no one can actually look at it directly. So bodywork is not a issue because you'll go blind.

How long before this hits the shed?

Now that you point that out it's the exact opposite. No pressure getting past is high boost and to much is low boost. None the less the ebay controller, leaks pressure to control. Unless I'm totally misunderstanding how it works.This is a good source for it's operation http://forums.nicoclub.com/generic-ebay-manual-boost-controller-install-on-sr20det-t346138.html For the generic ebay controller.

I understood what he was trying to say, then he said he Blocked the hose. Somehow achieving 8psi, more boost than the wastegate would provide. He must of unhooked the wastegate or it is not opening correctly. Seems he was under the impression that low amount of boost the wastegate allows was a fault and not a stock spec. This is the time to at least warn him. I'm not jumping all over him because he phrased the first question wrong.

5.5 is exactly what you should be seeing. There are no issues as far as boost. Only problem your having is the MBC has no effect on the stock level. Even with a leak it would be odd for it to have Zero effect.

A MBC is nothing more than a bleeder, it reduces the pressure that the wastegate sees. Thus making it open at higher pressures. Now if it didn't bleed at all then you would see no change. If it were to bleed to much you would see alot of boost. So considering that you can run at stock boost with no issues, then I think it's more than likely not bleeding at all. Chinese Ebay parts are not even close to reliable. So test the new part and make sure it actually works before you start looking at the oem parts. Chinese BOV is the same, when I pulled mine apart after a little use 2 pieces of spring fell out. My cheap adjustable FPR, didn't even hold pressure. The Chinese probe fan controller that you can pick up from Summit didn't even work out of the box, luckily that one wasn't mine.

5.5psi considering you have a intercooler is probably exactly right. What hose did you unplug, the pressure line? The wastegate will do absolutely nothing without it. You need it to be functioning. Is the relief opening? If the wastegate never opens you never stop building boost, even if there is a fault this is not a fix. Now if I was to unhook my pressure line to my gate, my engine would be gone first time I tested it. Actually I'm still running under 10psi so my E-POV is still on so my engine is safe if the hose ever came off. Plus I should have overboost protection set when I remove it, I suggest you set it up to.

I bet we all wish we could take a 3 day and burn up 8 sets. I'm still trying to imagine driving on a track with such a angle. Adding a bit to Gymkhana theme, this car has to be one of my all time favorites. It reminds me of a RC car, there has to be someone in the crowd running the controls.

Always entertaining. You have to wonder how many sets of tires did he actually go through.