goodoldjam

Where there is smoke there is fire. So you probably should check out what got burnt behind the dash, before you try again. The trace that burnt was all your sensor grounds, TPS, MAT, CLT, so it's not strange that you didn't see them. If i was to guess whatever that burnt behind the dash was probably what was feeding power to it. Since you were rewiring you could of mixed up a wire and fed the wrong spot. 14 TPS Return (Ground) 15 Tach/Ignition Since everything after 14 is not burnt this is where I would think it could have started. Or I maybe totally backwards because it looks like there is some burning between that trace and at least one of the pins on the db-37. It could be that a power source from the db-37 made it to that trace and lit it up like a fuse.

Yeah so many. Also have to think about if it's worth it to go to a external wastegate, look at all of Big Phils boost creep issues. Maybe it wont be a issue with the large turbine wheel. I'm kinda leaning towards a none gated housing, just because I do have a 40mm wastegate and flange ready to go on. Pyro said on Big Phils thread "I run a t3 turbine, 0.63 with a stage 5 and makes full boost at 3500 and pulls to 6500 with a msa stage 1 turbo cam. no creep issues at all. But wish I would had keep the turbine stock. the power band is a little too short" The P-trim wheel seems to be a few mm bigger than the stage V , so it would make sense that boost should come on even later. I'm getting on board with the .63 housing, anything larger maybe to unreasonable.

It happens, at least it wasn't megasquirt. Did you hook up a relay wrong or something?

I could only take advantage of the twin scroll with a custom manifold, I would need to split the exhaust runners and feed the sides separately. It would be more efficient but it is beyond what I am willing to attempt and it would be far to expensive to have one made. With the valving on my undivided manifold, it should result in more low end because it should spool faster. So i guess if it works well you would have a good mix of both top end and low. How well does it work though is the question.

It's twin scroll. I did come across a couple places that have machined T3 housings for it. It will end up probably costing a little more than I want to spend. Blocking off one side could be option or building my own valve maybe even a better idea. It's just a wastegate actuator and a divided flange with a butterfly.

Well I've been attempting to gather some info on this turbo. So far the part number comes up as turbo family T0486, not quite sure what 86 refers to. The Cold side seems to be t04e 50trim. The Hotside is the problem. It appears to be a P-trim turbine with 1.15 a/r housing, it's actually a little larger than the compressor housing. What should I do to make it usable, have a T3 housing machined to fit the turbine or find a T04 p-trim housing with a smaller A/R? I see the post about a quick spool valve and how it basically cuts the A/R in half. Is it a bad Idea to block off one side? I've heard someone suggest that before.

With all that oil and coolant leaking, I wonder what kind of milky mixture is in the Radiator if any?

Any updates on the 440cc Supra injectors?

MSnS_Extra024s9 settings in jpeg format If all you need is a VE and spark table for a stock engine, then this should get you started. You can copy the VE and spark tables. Then you'll need to fill in the rest. You probably wont find a map that plugs right in.

I was thinking about using megasquirt for fan control myself, It just seemed like a bit of a hassle. So i just tapped my thermostat housing and screwed in a cheap switch. Figured i could use the extra output for something else later.

I think i found a switch that will screw right in. A mid 80s 300zx has a switch that turns on at around 190 and i believe it's 1/4" npt or is it bsp? Anyway NAPA wants $50 for the 85 300zx fan switch, so I'm going to head to the junk yard and snag one from 87 and see if that works. The 85-88 Maxima with the VG has 2 switchs both are metric. If that doesn't working I'm going to tap it to m16x1.5, I found quite a few different ranges in that size for cheap. I was reading that some of mid 80s Nissans have a sensor in the radiator hose so I'll look for that also.

I'm looking for a temp switch for my electric fan to install in the thermostat housing. I'm wondering what other people used and not special order items. I'm looking for 3/8 npt switch. None of the autoparts stores list the on and off temps or even the size. I figure somewhere 180 on range would be what I'm after. All i can find are write ups that use special order Jegs switches. There has to be a Ford or GM switch that fits the bill. I need to know a part number or a model of car. Thanks for any help.

I've only driven my setup a few times. I was convinced my ignition driver was overheating. Actually it turned out to be bad grounds, car would heat up and then the weirdness would occur and the car would cut in and out. Any of the issues i have had so far have been power related. Now if i have a issue I check all the important connections first, before I start blaming the ecu. I would recommend going through and cleaning your connections first.

Just came across a live action wangan midnight on veoh. Im downloading it right now, should be worth watching even though its not subbed.

My thinking was that the first thing you do is get the standalone and go from there. Seems like its much more difficult when you cant properly tune the engine for your mods. I spent 260 for built megasquirt and harness, 70 for a laptop, 10 for 240sx TB/tps, 30 TB spacer, 20 IAT. So it cost me about 400 to get everything. It isnt that much when you think of how much power its gonna add in the long run.

D2 is jumpered normally it is not jumpered for distributors with a large offset bias. So do i leave it? For the Hall sensor, optical sensor, coil negative terminal or points: Jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket, Jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink. Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center. So i guess i do jumper xg1 to2.

So you want to remove the wastegate and just let the extra pressure vent from the intake? A wastegate is to control the speed the turbo spins, if it was gone your turbo would work way harder than it needs to produce low boost, you would also loose some power since the only route for exhaust gas would be through the turbo, plus the added heat. I would imagine it would scream alot. If you mean just vent exhaust to the atmosphere then it sounds like it would be possible, it would be just a an electric wastgate

It seems that my megasquirt is setup up for vr i need to switch it to hall for my 83. I just wondering if im doing everything and not sure about a few things. Im assuming d2 is jumpered for vr and should be cut. I noticed on the autotune site in the picture of there board that xg1 and xg2 looked to be jumpered do i need to do this also. Everthing on the board seems to be correct c12,c30 and r57 are all missing. Anyway blue is to removed and orange is to be added. Thanks in advance for any help guys.

Seymour, any thing new, do you have it all up and runnin?

Well i spent about a week looking at all the cheapos and i think almost all of them are the same cores. Theres the cheap bar and plate and the cheap tube and fin. I wouldnt be swayed by the free bov you really want to look at shipping cost and price as the main factors when choosing. Stay away from the tube and fins tho they look extremly poor. Here the intercooler i ended up getting http://cgi.ebay.com/FMIC-Turbo-Intercooler-29x11x3-for-Mustang-CenterInlet_W0QQitemZ8071891658QQcategoryZ33742QQcmdZViewItem I payed 139 for it. Its probaly the same core as what you are looking at but i decided i should go with the center intlet and outlet, because it makes better use of the core.

Ive been thinking about it also and i was thinking just redirect it right behind the radiator. Theres a picture of a japanese car somewhere on these forums that vents the air through the hood , but i was thinking maybe venting from the side of the car.

Got the fan today. You were right i hooked it up to a battery box in the house and it almost knocked over a chair. Only bad thing mine got a crack right under one of the mounting holes. Since its a clean crack ill just use contact cement or something, not worth shipping it back.

Thanks for pointing that out i was looking at mine the other day and it looked like one side was bent. I also noticed when i turned the wheel the rack seems to flex the brackets. I think ill just find a decent point of reference on the car and straighten it a little. Then do some welding to strengthen it.

Well i Bought one to the other day. Man jmark that guy should of gave you a discount with all the business you gave him by posting lol.

How many amps do you guys think that draws?