VinhZXT

OK I see your problem now. You need to put the schrader valve back on the rail and connect the return line to the one at the FPR. I will guarantee you this will work. Also install your fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail instead at the FPR. With this type of set up you can still get fuel pressure drop at the fuel rail. So remove your return line at the schrader valve and install your fuel pressure gauge there. Then move this return line to the one at the FPR. Do a search for fuel system and you should find some nice pictures on here. The problem with what you have is you have 58 PSI from the FPR to the fuel pump. But after the FPR it will drop very fast because it returns quickly thru the line that you connected at the front of the rail. GL. V.

Can I see a picture of your engine and the fuel set up? I am very confuse about your setup based on what you said. You removed the schrader valve to install the AN fitting but what are you connecting to here? Normally people just remove the schrader valve to install the fuel pressure gauge. Also you said you use the fuel rail with a return line and you installed an Aeromotive FPR before the fuel rail. This means you must have a return line connect from this FPR to go back to the tank. What did you connect to the return line at the fuel rail? Are you happen to use the 97-98 C5 PCM?

which valve is this? Are you talking about the one sitting on the fuel rail? The 97-98 models used the FPR on the fuel rails. Just curious did you install a FPR? This sounds like a fuel pressure problem. I highly recommend you install a FP gauge and check it out before checking other problems. GL.

Warren, Thanks for the link.

After more searching I am 100% positive that this is a VLSD from the 300ZXT SS model. A friend of mine took it to a machine shop and they did something to it to accept the 280ZXT input shafts. Ofcourse without the long input shaft the VLSD won't work properly based on Warren's info. Thanks for the info guys. V.

Zcarnut, Thanks for the confirmation and picture. The next question is why this VLSD accepts the 280ZXT input shafts???? What type of fluid should I use with this LSD for it to work? I put regular gear oil in it and it was whining. Thanks for the info Also I just read how the VLSD works and I am assuming the CLSD test won't work with this one. I am talking about the test where you spin the wheel then both should be turning the same direction. Thanks Vinh

This is a regular long nose R200 came out of a Z31. This is a weird open diff than. I just look at the 3rd post on the sticky. The internal of my R200 looks like the Q45's internal.. I have a Q45 rear in my garage so I will open it up tomorrow to check it out.

Hi All, What type of LSD do I have here? I open it up and it doesn't look like the normal CLSD as shown in this picture Here are pictures of my LSD's internal: Notice the center spool. I can't find anyway to open mine. The 1st picture is from 240ZHoke's write up. My LSD is a 3.7 ratio also and it accepts the regular 280ZXT input shafts. It is not grabbing both wheels. Thanks for any input Vinh

I ended up installing the 30 lbs selenoids and poppers into mine and my friend's Cobra. It works great. Too much trouble with these manual buttons. If you need info on the install of the selenoid into a Z or ZX let me know. GL V. Look at what I just found. Maybe this can be modified to work. http://www.dirak.com/uploads/katalog_pages/englisch/E1-060.pdf GL

I've been following this thread also. I like the look of the Honda trunk lock on the door. I am rebuilding a few Nalle Cobra Daytonas so I have the same issues with the door and trunk locks as you guys. I've been searching for the Honda trunk lock every where without luck. The MGB lock is just too expensive. Someone on an earlier post had mentioned about using the Z's trunk lock. I got a few extra trunk locks sitting here and I think I can fab up something for it to work with the door. The only thing missing is the this: http://www.illinoislock.com/cam_locks.asp?id=605 which I found just now. Initially I was going to install a selenoid and a popper for the door. It looks like I might go this route instead. Also the trunk lock looks like it has a longer throw compare to the Honda lock.

Yes.. I have a 77 280Z. The volt meter stays on with the ignition switched to off. The volt meter should have a small capacitor in it which should be charged up pretty quick. Once charged it becomes open and therefore shouldn't draw any more current. I have my battery hooked up for a few months without moving the car and the battery still good. The big cable from the alternator goes to the B+ at the battery.

I just did a CKP relearn on my engine and it ran a lot better. No more surging and no more misfire. The relearn procedure is very easy. You just need someone with scan tool. Here are the steps for HP tuner scanner: 1. Get the engine up to operating temp. 2. Use the scan tool to connect to the PCM. 3. Go to Bidirectional menu and select CKP learn 4. A window will pop up with 4 small window shows 4 sensors 5. Wait until all 4 sensors go green then the Start CKP learn button will lid 6. Leave the car idle and hit the Start learn button 7. Raise your RPM up to 5K 8. As soon as the engine RPM suddenly drop then let the gas pedal go 9. Shut the car off for atleast 15 seconds. This is where it saves the new parameter. 10. Then restart the car and test it out. Good luck

Man the more I look the more I think I have the same problems as you. I have 98 C5 motor and I installed a 99 C5 PCM. My motor has some surging and misfire problem. I just did a search on my EFI Live manual here is what I find: CKP learn… Performs a crank position sensor relearn. A relearn is necessary anytime that the physical relationship between the crank and the crank position sensor is disturbed, or if the PCM is replaced. (LS1/LS6 only) This function is under the Bidirectional tab in my EFI Live Scan tool. Look like you need to find someone locally with an EFI Live or HPTuner software to help you out. I am not sure you will need to buy a license or not. Your best bet is to call John at Speartech. Good luck V.

I just found something that may answer your question. Right out of my tech manual again: "CKP System Variation Learn Procedure Important While the learn procedure is in progress, release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. The engine control is returned to the operator, and the engine will respond to throttle position after the learn procedure is complete. Install the scan tool. Apply the parking brake. Block the drive wheels. Close the hood. Place the transmission in Park if the vehicle has an automatic transmission, or in Neutral if the vehicle has a manual transmission. Idle the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches HC (150°F). Turn OFF all of the accessories. Apply the brakes for the duration of the procedure. Important If the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure cannot be completed successfully, refer to DTC P1336 for additional diagnostic information. Use the scan tool in order to enable the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure. Slowly raise the engine speed to 4,000 RPM. Immediately release the throttle when the engine speed decreases. Turn OFF the ignition for 15 seconds after the learn procedure is completed successfully. "

You should be glad that the dealer didn't perform the job for you lol... here is the relearn info right out of my tech manuals. "Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to) fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory), IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations, certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds, automatic transmission shift adapts will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs. It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving distance." Relax, I have the same issues with my swap too. This is because I don't drive the car much and I disconnected the battery all the time. So the PCM can't do a relearn. Good luck. V.

According to my receipt the autometer tach and speedo are $330. Not include any other gauge.

Let's double check a couple of things: 1. Continuity check on the small red wire back to the PCM like SpearTech mentioned. 2. Check the the connection between the big red cable from the alternator to the 12V battery. If the above connections are correct it should work regardless of the light or not.

Here is what comes out of my service manual: "Info - Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output #02-06-03-008A - (Jul 28, 2004) Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output 1990-2005 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2005 HUMMER H2 This bulletin is being revised to add the 2004 and 2005 model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-03-008 (Section 06 -- Engine). Any vehicle may have a low voltage display (if equipped with gauges), lights that dim at stop lights, slow cranking, no start, low generator output at idle or dim lights at idle when electrical loads are heavy at idle or under slow driving or infrequent usage conditions. These characteristics may be more noticeable with customer added electrical accessories, or with a discharged battery. These are normal operating characteristics of a vehicle electrical system and no repairs should be attempted unless a proven fault has been diagnosed. During normal driving conditions, when engine speed is above 1000 RPM, the generator is designed to do two things: Supply the current necessary to operate the vehicle's originally equipped electrical devices (loads). Recharge/ maintain the battery's state of charge. The following factors may affect generator and battery performance: Non-usage of the vehicle for extended periods of time. The vehicle's computers, clocks and the like will cause the battery state of charge to drop (For example; 30 days in a parking lot and the vehicle may not start because of a dead battery or a vehicle which is driven only a short distance once a week may end up with a discharged battery to the point where the vehicle may not start). This would be considered abnormal usage of the vehicle and the normally expected result for the vehicle battery, generator and electrical systems. At idle, vehicle electrical loads may exceed the low speed current (amperage) output of the generator and when this happens the shortfall comes from the battery. This will result in a drop in the electrical system voltage as the battery delivers the additional electrical current to meet the demand. This is equivalent to the brown outs experienced by homes and businesses when the electrical demand is more than the supply. See Figure 1. Extended periods of engine idling, with high electrical loads, may result in a discharged battery. Attempting to recharge a battery by letting the engine run at idle may not be beneficial unless all electrical loads are turned "OFF". Increased internal generator temperatures from extended idling can also contribute to lower electrical system voltage. As the generator's internal temperature rises, the generator's output capability is reduced due to increased electrical resistance. The following are some typical examples of electrical loads: System Amperage Load Rear Window defogger 25 Electric AIR Pump 25 Heated Seats 5 Amps per seat Headlamps (high) 20 Blower Motor (High) 20 Headlamps (low) 15 Brake Lights 6 Windshield Wipers 6 Ignition 6 Depending on the vehicle application, generator current (amperage) output at engine idle speeds of 600-700 RPM can be as low as 35 percent of the full rated output. With enough electrical loads "ON", it is easy to exceed the generator current (amperage) output when the engine is at an idle of 600-700 RPM. This is a normal condition. The battery supplements for short periods of time. Items that affect the vehicle's electrical system current and voltage at idle are the number of electrical loads being used, including add-on accessories, and extended idle times. When the vehicle speed is above approximately 24 km/h (15 mph), the engine/generator RPM is high enough and the generator current (amperage ) output is sufficient to supply the current (amperage) requirements of the vehicle as originally equipped and recharge the battery. Dimming lights at idle may be considered normal for two reasons: As the engine/generator speed changes, so will the current (amperage) output of the generator. As a vehicle slows, engine/generator RPM slows, and the current (amperage) output of the generator may not be sufficient to supply the loads, the vehicle system voltage will drop and the lights will dim. Dimming of the lights is an indication that current is being pulled from the battery. If the battery is in a low state-of-charge (discharged condition), the driver will notice a more pronounced dimming than a vehicle with a fully charged battery. When high current loads (blower, rear defogger, headlamps, cooling fan, heated seats, power seats, electric "AIR" pump, or power windows) are operating or cycled "ON", the generator's voltage regulator can delay the rise in output. This effect, usually at lower engine speeds, can take up to ten seconds to ramp up the generator output. This is done to avoid loading the engine severely. To increase current (amperage) output, additional torque is consumed by the generator. The engine computer (PCM) will ramp up engine/generator speed in small steps so engine speed variations are not noticeable to the driver. " Good luck

Very good idea. If my memory is correct the 2 wires for the squirter are very thin. I suggest you connect them thru a relay.

Missing: 1. Relays and fuses 2. fuel hoses / line 3. Pipes to finish the exhaust system 4. Radiator hose - mentioned by m1noel 5. Water temp sensor 6. Oil pressure sensor 7. Quick release connectors for the fuel hoses to the C5 FPR There are 2 things you don't need to pay on your list the pulley and the throttle cable. You can make the throttle cable from a junked bicycle brake cable. There is no need to spend $50 for something you can make out of nothing.

Hi guys, My friend's Z ran out of oil in the rear differential and it chewed up the ring gear. Does anyone knows where I can find the replacement ring gear? I need to replace both gears inside the rear end. This is for the CLSD rear. Thanks V.

Miguel, I don't want to discourage you from persuing your dream but I got to ask. How much do you know about fiberglass? Have you build any fiberglass parts before? Do you have a place to work? Do you have the $? Fiberglass business is no jokes. I suggest you contact John Washington for some advice before you persue your dream. Good luck V.

I used the stock 280ZXT fuel pump and it ran fine from Philly to Orlando and back. You need the 1999 C5 fuel pressure regulator and filter all in one unit. That little thingy on your fuel rail is call a fuel damper or something. It's not a fuel regulator. Also you can flip the fuel rail so that the inlet is on the passenger side. This should save you a few feet of FI hoses. The connectors are all your choice. Autopart store should have the GM quick connectors to barb end that you can use with FI hoses. You will need 4 of them. 3 at the C5 fuel pressure regulator/filter and 1 at the fuel rail. 3 are 3/8 size and 1 is 5/16.

Your original problem was caused by a weak battery. It just simply won't hold the charge. You were just lucky that it held just enough charge to start the car. The alternator was fine and that was what kept your car running. You didn't need the new alternator. For your heat issue you never mention you have auto climate control or not. The manual climate control used a manual heater valve and controlled by the lever in the front. This means it is not control by vacuum. If you have auto climate control then yes the heater control valve is control by vacuum. Many people have problems with auto climate control system. You are not the only one. This is a typical example why mechanics never want to touch old cars period. Unless that mechanic knows the in and out about that particular car. You have to understand that with old cars any problem can come up at time. If it just happen to occur while the mechanic is working on your car sometimes it is not the mechanic's fault. I was in this position before so I know. Philber, Look in the FAQ section. The answer to your problem is in there.

I have install the CVs without removing the LCA. What I did was I open up the grease cap, took the spring out and cut it in half. I put the grease cap on the outter flange first. Then use a flat piece of metal compress the spring on to the tripod and slide it over the grease cap and then let go. Lock the grease cap onto the tripod. It's a messy job if you don't want to remove the LCA.